Scotland: Bluebells and Gorse, Castles and Stones, and NO Rain!
Jun 26th, 2016, 05:07 PM
#41
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Glen Affric. What an amazingly beautiful place. My grandparents lived in a “holler” (glen) in Kentucky and throughout the Highlands, B and I were reminded of their place, but especially here in Glen Affric. At the parking lot at the top, C and I did two short hikes, one which took us up to viewpoint of Loch Affric and the other partway down to the river that flows between the two lochs, Beinn a Mjeadhoin and Affric. Very few people around, and those who were seem to have done the longer hike around Loch Affric (about a 5 hour hike, according to Eileen). We were so happy that we had returned in time to be able to do this – and sorry that B missed it.
Jun 27th, 2016, 08:06 PM
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1-2June
Can it really be our last day in Scotland? Sadly, yes.
We had a long day of driving ahead of us because we needed to get to Linlithgow for our last night and we really wanted to pass by a little village called Eassie. Why? Well, our MacDonald roots may be quite vague, but we know for certain about our ancestor Silvester Prophet who came from Eassie in Angus. He was a Jacobite during the 1715 rising, captured at Preston and held in prison at Lancaster Castle. A year later, he was tried, convicted, and being a strong young man, was sent to the American colonies where he was indentured for seven years. After that, he did quite well for himself, accumulating property to leave for his wife and children upon his death. I doubt his fortune would have been the same as a laborer in Angus, besides which B and I would not be here. So homage must be paid to Grandfather Silvester.
We sadly said goodbye to Eileen and the lovely sheep. Our route took us through Beauly this time, a very lovely town where we had thought about staying. It would have been a good alternative. The drive actually was not bad because we followed the A9 most of the way. There was construction for several miles so it was slow going in spots. But how can you complain about mountains on either side, glens and the Pass of Killiecrankie (huge historical significance), and the beautifully green countryside of Perthshire. Wow, yet again.
Eventually, we left the A9 at a town called Dunkeld and followed a small road (A984) and several even smaller ones, trying to find Eassie. We knew Eassie had the ruins of a church that was quite significant because of a 1300 year old Pictish stone – we even had a photo of it from Wikipedia! However, even Fiona could not find Eassie. She led us through lovely fields of produce and a church ruin that was not our church ruin and even Eassie Primary School, but not the actual village.
By this time, we greatly needed a toilet and lunch break (in that order) and so decided to just head to Glamis Castle. We wanted to see it anyway because we knew Silvester had worked there at one time. Driving down the road to Glamis, what should we see off to the left but Our Church Ruin!!!! We had found Eassie!!!! So after our break at Glamis Castle, we made our way back there.
Eassie is tiny but it did have a sign identifying the village – and the church ruin with its Pictish Stone and many very old tombstones. Some later ones as well, of course, but no Prophets were buried there, at least not among the existing stones. However, it was quite surreal to walk in places Grandfather Silvester may have walked at one time, even if it had probably changed vastly since he was there. And just at the end of the road before leaving the village was the most perfectly beautiful lilac bush. Did I say my favorite flower is lilac?
We then had to be on our way to Linlithgow – and we finally ran into a true traffic jam so it took us quite a while. However, we drove over the Forth Bridge, which was very cool. We had seen it from Edinburgh Castle just 11 days ago!
We stayed at the Star and Garter Hotel in Linlithgow www.starandgarterhotel.co.uk and could see the top of Linlithgow Palace from our room. Alas, that was all we would see of the Palace but this was really only a convenient stopping place for the flight from EDR the next morning. It is a very old hotel, built on the side of a hill so that there are at least three levels (maybe four) and no elevator, of course. And, also of course, our room was on the top level.
But it was a very comfortable room for the three of us. Dinner in the restaurant was good and they had plenty of ice from the bar for B’s very sore throat.
Next morning, we drove to EDR and returned our car, quite dirty but with no damage. Easy peasy. B and C then caught their BA flight to London with a transfer to Air New Zealand and eventually (some 15 hours later) arrived safe and sound at LAX.
Not me, however. Instead, I caught a taxi to Edinburgh Waverly station and took a train to Newcastle to see Chitty Chitty Bang Bang starring Lee Mead as Caractacus Potts. I am a huge fan of Lee Mead and have visited London numerous times to see him in various shows and concerts. When it turned out the UK tour of Chitty was going to be in Newcastle just as I was finishing the Great Scotland Adventure, well, it was just Meant To Be! Two days and three Chitty performances later, I took a train to London, met friends for dinner, and the next day flew home.
What an amazing trip. Especially after wishing and hoping and planning for so long, it was remarkable that Scotland exceeded every expectation. And I have to say, the Scots are some of the most friendly people we have ever met. Now, C, B and I tend to attract friendly people, being friendly ourselves,
but the Scots were exceptional. We just must go back because we left our hearts in Scotland.
Can it really be our last day in Scotland? Sadly, yes.
We had a long day of driving ahead of us because we needed to get to Linlithgow for our last night and we really wanted to pass by a little village called Eassie. Why? Well, our MacDonald roots may be quite vague, but we know for certain about our ancestor Silvester Prophet who came from Eassie in Angus. He was a Jacobite during the 1715 rising, captured at Preston and held in prison at Lancaster Castle. A year later, he was tried, convicted, and being a strong young man, was sent to the American colonies where he was indentured for seven years. After that, he did quite well for himself, accumulating property to leave for his wife and children upon his death. I doubt his fortune would have been the same as a laborer in Angus, besides which B and I would not be here. So homage must be paid to Grandfather Silvester.
We sadly said goodbye to Eileen and the lovely sheep. Our route took us through Beauly this time, a very lovely town where we had thought about staying. It would have been a good alternative. The drive actually was not bad because we followed the A9 most of the way. There was construction for several miles so it was slow going in spots. But how can you complain about mountains on either side, glens and the Pass of Killiecrankie (huge historical significance), and the beautifully green countryside of Perthshire. Wow, yet again.
Eventually, we left the A9 at a town called Dunkeld and followed a small road (A984) and several even smaller ones, trying to find Eassie. We knew Eassie had the ruins of a church that was quite significant because of a 1300 year old Pictish stone – we even had a photo of it from Wikipedia! However, even Fiona could not find Eassie. She led us through lovely fields of produce and a church ruin that was not our church ruin and even Eassie Primary School, but not the actual village.
By this time, we greatly needed a toilet and lunch break (in that order) and so decided to just head to Glamis Castle. We wanted to see it anyway because we knew Silvester had worked there at one time. Driving down the road to Glamis, what should we see off to the left but Our Church Ruin!!!! We had found Eassie!!!! So after our break at Glamis Castle, we made our way back there.
Eassie is tiny but it did have a sign identifying the village – and the church ruin with its Pictish Stone and many very old tombstones. Some later ones as well, of course, but no Prophets were buried there, at least not among the existing stones. However, it was quite surreal to walk in places Grandfather Silvester may have walked at one time, even if it had probably changed vastly since he was there. And just at the end of the road before leaving the village was the most perfectly beautiful lilac bush. Did I say my favorite flower is lilac?
We then had to be on our way to Linlithgow – and we finally ran into a true traffic jam so it took us quite a while. However, we drove over the Forth Bridge, which was very cool. We had seen it from Edinburgh Castle just 11 days ago!
We stayed at the Star and Garter Hotel in Linlithgow www.starandgarterhotel.co.uk and could see the top of Linlithgow Palace from our room. Alas, that was all we would see of the Palace but this was really only a convenient stopping place for the flight from EDR the next morning. It is a very old hotel, built on the side of a hill so that there are at least three levels (maybe four) and no elevator, of course. And, also of course, our room was on the top level.
But it was a very comfortable room for the three of us. Dinner in the restaurant was good and they had plenty of ice from the bar for B’s very sore throat.Next morning, we drove to EDR and returned our car, quite dirty but with no damage. Easy peasy. B and C then caught their BA flight to London with a transfer to Air New Zealand and eventually (some 15 hours later) arrived safe and sound at LAX.
Not me, however. Instead, I caught a taxi to Edinburgh Waverly station and took a train to Newcastle to see Chitty Chitty Bang Bang starring Lee Mead as Caractacus Potts. I am a huge fan of Lee Mead and have visited London numerous times to see him in various shows and concerts. When it turned out the UK tour of Chitty was going to be in Newcastle just as I was finishing the Great Scotland Adventure, well, it was just Meant To Be! Two days and three Chitty performances later, I took a train to London, met friends for dinner, and the next day flew home.
What an amazing trip. Especially after wishing and hoping and planning for so long, it was remarkable that Scotland exceeded every expectation. And I have to say, the Scots are some of the most friendly people we have ever met. Now, C, B and I tend to attract friendly people, being friendly ourselves,
but the Scots were exceptional. We just must go back because we left our hearts in Scotland.
Jun 28th, 2016, 07:28 AM
#51
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Thank you, janisj. That means a lot coming from you.
Honestly, I can see why you continue to return - it is definitely a place that just grabs your heart and soul. And we really just touched the surface.
Honestly, I can see why you continue to return - it is definitely a place that just grabs your heart and soul. And we really just touched the surface.
Jun 28th, 2016, 09:31 AM
#52
Thank you for a wonderful trip report. I particularly loved it, as we were there just before you, and experienced many of the same things. But we missed lots of what you saw, so the idea of a return is starting to percolate.
Your description of Culloden was very moving. My two daughters left the room with the enactment in tears, and I couldn't stop watching it, it was mesmerizing.
You write so beautifully, thanks for sharing. I'm not confident in my abilities, but I'm thinking I might just take a stab at a TR, by way of paying back.
Cheerio
Your description of Culloden was very moving. My two daughters left the room with the enactment in tears, and I couldn't stop watching it, it was mesmerizing.
You write so beautifully, thanks for sharing. I'm not confident in my abilities, but I'm thinking I might just take a stab at a TR, by way of paying back.
Cheerio
Jun 28th, 2016, 11:00 AM
#53
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sugarmaple, that is very kind of you.
Please do try a trip report. It's such a great way of recalling your trip, as well as contributing much to this site. I have always loved reading trip reports, especially when planning my trip - for the info included, but also just to get a 'feel' for the place.
Please do try a trip report. It's such a great way of recalling your trip, as well as contributing much to this site. I have always loved reading trip reports, especially when planning my trip - for the info included, but also just to get a 'feel' for the place.
Jun 29th, 2016, 05:31 AM
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Thank you for letting us tag along vicariously on your trip - I almost feel as though I've been! Glad you had such a great time in spite of everyone's ailments. That which doesn't kill you... makes a great story?
Apr 5th, 2017, 06:20 PM
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Excellent report - two highlights that intersected with a trip we took last summer about the same time - (2016) - 1) Glen Coe in general and The Clachaig Inn in particular are magical places. We also were fortunate to have splendid weather on our trip except for the day we drove into Glen Coe. I completely agree with the comments of Bill above - it can give a sense of imposing, brooding, dramatic. The staff at the Inn are just wonderful. Advanced bookings is highly recommended 2) yes, the palace does shut down at times, so rigorous advanced research into opening times are to be stressed.
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