Scotland: Bluebells and Gorse, Castles and Stones, and NO Rain!
Jun 18th, 2016, 06:24 PM
#21
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Thank you both so much for following along. I have a birthday party tonight and Father's Day tomorrow so won't be able to post more till Monday. Please stick with me - the Highlands and Skye were just amazing!
Jun 20th, 2016, 09:07 AM
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OK, then, here we go!
25-27 May
When planning this trip, I was a bit confused with the difference between Glen Coe and the town/village of Glencoe. Turns out, they are two different places and one does not need to stay in Glencoe to visit and enjoy Glen Coe.
That is a good thing because everything in Glencoe was completely booked – and we were making lodging reservations in September 2015 for an end of May 2016 trip. Our first choices were often already completely booked so word to the wise: decide and book early.
Another word to the wise: don’t stress if you don’t get your first preference. Second and third choices often work out for the best.
Our drive to the highlands from Luss was through more breathtaking scenery – much different from the Trossachs, but just as beautiful. I have seen many trip reports about taking the road less traveled (and we would do that many times) but this was the A82, a well-traveled road that was every bit as enjoyable and that actually goes through Glen Coe (although, of course, there are walks that are more “through” the Glen than the highway).
My point is, all the things I was stressing about and researching and planning really did not matter a whole lot. It was as if nothing could go ‘wrong’ and, if something was a bit off the ‘Grand Plan’, it ended up being quite amazing anyway.
Bluebells and gorse. Add to that wild rhododendron and many more blossoms that I could not identify. Plus skies bluer and greens greener that I have ever seen. The advantage of traveling in spring. The disadvantage being, of course, that the heather was not in bloom. Just means I need to return in late summer/fall next time.
Our first stop, (other than photo stops, of which there were many), was the Glencoe Visitor Centre for a little history of Ossian and St Mundu and, of course, that Massacre. B and I have MacDonald blood in our veins (although it’s not clear which MacDonald since there are many branches of this tree) so we take the Massacre quite seriously.
We wanted to stay at Clachaig Inn and I would definitely try to do so on a second trip. It was fully booked for this one so we ended up at Strathassynt Guest House in Ballachulish: https://www.strathassynt.com/ which is just down the road from Glencoe, the village. This was a case of third or maybe fourth choice but it was perfect for our needs: clean, comfortable, accessible, reasonably priced. This is one of those places at which folks walking the Highland Way make one of their stops. Every day there was luggage tagged and waiting for pick up in the small foyer, ready to be taken to the next stop along the walkers’ route.
Across the street is the Laroch Bar and Restaurant at which we had an amazing meal. Turns out the chef has a Michelin star! I had one of the best rib eyes I have ever eaten – perfectly medium rare. (I know I use a lot of superlatives. Scotland does that to you.) B had equally delicious lamb and C had an amazing burger. Reservations are encouraged since there really is not much other choice in Ballachulish, but we did not have reservations and still had a table one night. The next night, we ate in the bar.
I was still quite ill and spent a morning in bed here – and the bed was very comfortable. Neil’s wife made me a pot of ginger/lemon tea and Neil advised me to squeeze garlic oil in my ears. I loved the tea but never quite managed the garlic oil in my ears, although I appreciated the thought. Neil’s wife also did laundry for us - £5/load. Very reasonable and worth not wasting time in a do-it-yourself place.
Another note: We were not really prepared for how small the towns/villages were where we chose to stay. We deliberately did not choose to stay in Inverness, for example, or Portree. Don’t get me wrong, we were very happy about this, but it also meant in Ballachulish that there was no pharmacy or clinic, the closest being Fort William. So I made do (as did B later) with what over-the-counter meds we could pick up at a convenience store – and it was not always easy to know what would work and what would make me feel even more sick.
After breakfast the next morning, B and C left me in bed and went for a hike up Glen Coe. The photos are amazing and I am devastated to have missed it. B said it really felt like ‘home’ – like it really could have been our forefathers and mothers who fled the massacre into the snow of those munros. (For more info on the massacre: http://scotlandwelcomesyou.com/glencoe-massacre/ )
Upon their return, I did feel well enough to take the scenic drive around Loch Levin which begins at the village of Glencoe and leads to Kinlochleven, ending at the Ballachulish bridge. Terrific views of the Pap of Glen Coe. (As I told my family, ‘Pap’ is Scots for ‘Teton’
)
We had really hoped to visit Eileen Munde, the island burial place of MacDonalds as well as several other clans, but it was not possible to do so without the permission of the Glencoe Heritage Trust. Several online resources had said it was possible even just to kayak over, but I believe this is no longer encouraged. At any rate, we were not able to go and it is perhaps our only real regret.
I personally really feel the need to return to Glen Coe since I missed so much of it. A very special, evocative place.
The next day, we again followed the A82 north along Loch Linnhe, past Fort William, to the junction of the A830, which would lead us past Glenfinnan to our ferry at Mallaig . . . and then ‘over the sea, to Skye.’**
**Outlander reference
25-27 May
When planning this trip, I was a bit confused with the difference between Glen Coe and the town/village of Glencoe. Turns out, they are two different places and one does not need to stay in Glencoe to visit and enjoy Glen Coe.
That is a good thing because everything in Glencoe was completely booked – and we were making lodging reservations in September 2015 for an end of May 2016 trip. Our first choices were often already completely booked so word to the wise: decide and book early.
Another word to the wise: don’t stress if you don’t get your first preference. Second and third choices often work out for the best.
Our drive to the highlands from Luss was through more breathtaking scenery – much different from the Trossachs, but just as beautiful. I have seen many trip reports about taking the road less traveled (and we would do that many times) but this was the A82, a well-traveled road that was every bit as enjoyable and that actually goes through Glen Coe (although, of course, there are walks that are more “through” the Glen than the highway).
My point is, all the things I was stressing about and researching and planning really did not matter a whole lot. It was as if nothing could go ‘wrong’ and, if something was a bit off the ‘Grand Plan’, it ended up being quite amazing anyway.
Bluebells and gorse. Add to that wild rhododendron and many more blossoms that I could not identify. Plus skies bluer and greens greener that I have ever seen. The advantage of traveling in spring. The disadvantage being, of course, that the heather was not in bloom. Just means I need to return in late summer/fall next time.
Our first stop, (other than photo stops, of which there were many), was the Glencoe Visitor Centre for a little history of Ossian and St Mundu and, of course, that Massacre. B and I have MacDonald blood in our veins (although it’s not clear which MacDonald since there are many branches of this tree) so we take the Massacre quite seriously.
We wanted to stay at Clachaig Inn and I would definitely try to do so on a second trip. It was fully booked for this one so we ended up at Strathassynt Guest House in Ballachulish: https://www.strathassynt.com/ which is just down the road from Glencoe, the village. This was a case of third or maybe fourth choice but it was perfect for our needs: clean, comfortable, accessible, reasonably priced. This is one of those places at which folks walking the Highland Way make one of their stops. Every day there was luggage tagged and waiting for pick up in the small foyer, ready to be taken to the next stop along the walkers’ route.
Across the street is the Laroch Bar and Restaurant at which we had an amazing meal. Turns out the chef has a Michelin star! I had one of the best rib eyes I have ever eaten – perfectly medium rare. (I know I use a lot of superlatives. Scotland does that to you.) B had equally delicious lamb and C had an amazing burger. Reservations are encouraged since there really is not much other choice in Ballachulish, but we did not have reservations and still had a table one night. The next night, we ate in the bar.
I was still quite ill and spent a morning in bed here – and the bed was very comfortable. Neil’s wife made me a pot of ginger/lemon tea and Neil advised me to squeeze garlic oil in my ears. I loved the tea but never quite managed the garlic oil in my ears, although I appreciated the thought. Neil’s wife also did laundry for us - £5/load. Very reasonable and worth not wasting time in a do-it-yourself place.
Another note: We were not really prepared for how small the towns/villages were where we chose to stay. We deliberately did not choose to stay in Inverness, for example, or Portree. Don’t get me wrong, we were very happy about this, but it also meant in Ballachulish that there was no pharmacy or clinic, the closest being Fort William. So I made do (as did B later) with what over-the-counter meds we could pick up at a convenience store – and it was not always easy to know what would work and what would make me feel even more sick.
After breakfast the next morning, B and C left me in bed and went for a hike up Glen Coe. The photos are amazing and I am devastated to have missed it. B said it really felt like ‘home’ – like it really could have been our forefathers and mothers who fled the massacre into the snow of those munros. (For more info on the massacre: http://scotlandwelcomesyou.com/glencoe-massacre/ )
Upon their return, I did feel well enough to take the scenic drive around Loch Levin which begins at the village of Glencoe and leads to Kinlochleven, ending at the Ballachulish bridge. Terrific views of the Pap of Glen Coe. (As I told my family, ‘Pap’ is Scots for ‘Teton’
)We had really hoped to visit Eileen Munde, the island burial place of MacDonalds as well as several other clans, but it was not possible to do so without the permission of the Glencoe Heritage Trust. Several online resources had said it was possible even just to kayak over, but I believe this is no longer encouraged. At any rate, we were not able to go and it is perhaps our only real regret.
I personally really feel the need to return to Glen Coe since I missed so much of it. A very special, evocative place.
The next day, we again followed the A82 north along Loch Linnhe, past Fort William, to the junction of the A830, which would lead us past Glenfinnan to our ferry at Mallaig . . . and then ‘over the sea, to Skye.’**
**Outlander reference
Jun 20th, 2016, 09:16 AM
#25
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Oh, something I forgot. B and C also walked up and around the old slate mine in Ballachulish, which is no longer an active mine and has been allowed to return to a more natural state. It's another of the walks we found on the website http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ Again, B's photos are beautiful. 
Jun 20th, 2016, 03:28 PM
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It must be close to 50 years ago now but I remember we had some friends from New York staying with us and we drove them up to Glen Coe. The weather and colours were exactly as you described LCBoniti and has brought back those memories.
I do remember in Glencoe village a small shop with a large notice on the door. The first line said 'No Campbells' the second line 'No Dogs'.
Due to my job, over the years I've driven through Glen Coe in mid-winter and the feeling/atmosphere was very, very different. Not bad, just sombre and dramatic with an unusual almost imposing atmosphere.
Thanks for a great trip report.
Bill
I do remember in Glencoe village a small shop with a large notice on the door. The first line said 'No Campbells' the second line 'No Dogs'.
Due to my job, over the years I've driven through Glen Coe in mid-winter and the feeling/atmosphere was very, very different. Not bad, just sombre and dramatic with an unusual almost imposing atmosphere.
Thanks for a great trip report.
Bill
Jun 20th, 2016, 06:01 PM
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'My point is, all the things I was stressing about and researching and planning really did not matter a whole lot. It was as if nothing could go ‘wrong’ and, if something was a bit off the ‘Grand Plan’, it ended up being quite amazing anyway.'
I could say the same thing about my trip, but you said it so eloquently, I don't need to.
Such a shame you were sick on your long-awaited trip, but you seem to have made the best of it. Bill's right - you painted quite a vivid picture of Glen Coe - and I've never even been there!
I could say the same thing about my trip, but you said it so eloquently, I don't need to.
Such a shame you were sick on your long-awaited trip, but you seem to have made the best of it. Bill's right - you painted quite a vivid picture of Glen Coe - and I've never even been there!
Jun 20th, 2016, 07:14 PM
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Thanks for the very kind comments.
We have had a power outage on the hottest day in history in So Cal and have had to go to a hotel for the night.
So, will continue with Skye tomorrow ...
We have had a power outage on the hottest day in history in So Cal and have had to go to a hotel for the night.
So, will continue with Skye tomorrow ...
Jun 25th, 2016, 03:23 PM
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Sorry about that - I hope you are still with me. I'll try to finish this up over the weekend.
27-30 May
It was difficult to say goodbye to the Pap of Glencoe, but we were very much looking forward to our time on Skye. But first, a short stop at Glenfinnan, the place of the arrival and eventual departure of Prince Charles Edward Stuart.
The Glenfinnan Monument was completely enclosed with scaffolding, which only detracted a little from the amazing scene. And, truthfully, the real attraction of this wayside stop is the Glenfinnan Viaduct, better known now as the Harry Potter Train.
Our arrival was just in time to hike to the viewpoint just as the train was crossing the viaduct, whistle sounding and steam steaming. Perfect photo op. It was gorgeous, as was the view out across the loch, and I do wonder what it would be like to actually be on the train. Another time perhaps . . .
The drive on the A830 along Loch nan Uamh is lovely. At one particularly scenic turnout, there is a marker describing the arrival and departure of the Bonnie Prince – a stop well worth making, especially if you are a history buff as we are.
Our arrival in Mallaig was a bit earlier than expected. I should note here that I made great use of the website http://distancecalculator.globefeed....nce_Calculator while planning driving distances. We found it to be quite accurate, but always allowed ourselves plenty of time as we did not know how many stops we might make on a given route. In line with this, I had pre-paid for the last ferry of the day leaving Mallaig. https://www.calmac.co.uk/ As it turned out, we were earlier than expected and were able to change to an earlier ferry. So, lunch at one of the many fresh seafood restaurants in Mallaig (I don’t remember what B or I had, but C had a bowl full of the most delicious langoustines) and then we got in line for the ferry.
I had only taken a ferry once before (to the Isle of Wight) and this one was a much smaller boat, but the routine was the same: drive on board, park the car, walk to one of the upper decks, and wave goodbye to the mainland. In a very short time, the call was made to return to our car and off we drove onto the Isle of Skye at Armadale. From there, it was an easy drive to Sligachan.
I have to again thank janisj for the suggestion to stay at the Sligachan Hotel www.sligachan.co.uk/ It was the perfect location for our needs as we would have only two days to see as much of Skye as humanly possible. Sligachan had two important pluses for us: 1) it is at a ‘Y’ junction (sort of) where one direction takes you to the Trotternish Peninsula and the other towards Dunvegan and all points on the west side of Skye 2) it is at the foot of the spectacular Cuillins, Red Cuillin on the one side and the mighty Black Cuillin on the other. Wow.
It was also perfect for us in that it is not a large community, such as Portree. Don’t get me wrong, Portree is beautiful, and if you are looking for a variety of restaurants and pubs and a bit more action, that’s your place. But we were not. The Sligachan Hotel has a very good restaurant (The Sligachan Steakhouse and Grill) and a very good pub next door (Seamus’ Bar), and that was all we needed. It also is a very old hotel (it reminded me of the time I stayed in the old part of the Hotel del Coronado: lots of wood, creaky floors, narrow hallways), but the family room we had was large and had three comfortable beds – and a beautiful view of the Red Cuillin, which is spectacular at sunset. Hence the “red” name.
The evening of our arrival, we walked across the road to the old stone bridge and just basked in the beauty of the place – and our tremendous good fortune to be there for the next three nights. We dined at the restaurant that evening. I can’t remember what I had, but B had the venison casserole which was delicious.
I was finally feeling more like myself. Unfortunately, B was quickly becoming quite ill and would be for the rest of our trip.
27-30 May
It was difficult to say goodbye to the Pap of Glencoe, but we were very much looking forward to our time on Skye. But first, a short stop at Glenfinnan, the place of the arrival and eventual departure of Prince Charles Edward Stuart.
The Glenfinnan Monument was completely enclosed with scaffolding, which only detracted a little from the amazing scene. And, truthfully, the real attraction of this wayside stop is the Glenfinnan Viaduct, better known now as the Harry Potter Train.
Our arrival was just in time to hike to the viewpoint just as the train was crossing the viaduct, whistle sounding and steam steaming. Perfect photo op. It was gorgeous, as was the view out across the loch, and I do wonder what it would be like to actually be on the train. Another time perhaps . . .
The drive on the A830 along Loch nan Uamh is lovely. At one particularly scenic turnout, there is a marker describing the arrival and departure of the Bonnie Prince – a stop well worth making, especially if you are a history buff as we are.
Our arrival in Mallaig was a bit earlier than expected. I should note here that I made great use of the website http://distancecalculator.globefeed....nce_Calculator while planning driving distances. We found it to be quite accurate, but always allowed ourselves plenty of time as we did not know how many stops we might make on a given route. In line with this, I had pre-paid for the last ferry of the day leaving Mallaig. https://www.calmac.co.uk/ As it turned out, we were earlier than expected and were able to change to an earlier ferry. So, lunch at one of the many fresh seafood restaurants in Mallaig (I don’t remember what B or I had, but C had a bowl full of the most delicious langoustines) and then we got in line for the ferry.
I had only taken a ferry once before (to the Isle of Wight) and this one was a much smaller boat, but the routine was the same: drive on board, park the car, walk to one of the upper decks, and wave goodbye to the mainland. In a very short time, the call was made to return to our car and off we drove onto the Isle of Skye at Armadale. From there, it was an easy drive to Sligachan.
I have to again thank janisj for the suggestion to stay at the Sligachan Hotel www.sligachan.co.uk/ It was the perfect location for our needs as we would have only two days to see as much of Skye as humanly possible. Sligachan had two important pluses for us: 1) it is at a ‘Y’ junction (sort of) where one direction takes you to the Trotternish Peninsula and the other towards Dunvegan and all points on the west side of Skye 2) it is at the foot of the spectacular Cuillins, Red Cuillin on the one side and the mighty Black Cuillin on the other. Wow.
It was also perfect for us in that it is not a large community, such as Portree. Don’t get me wrong, Portree is beautiful, and if you are looking for a variety of restaurants and pubs and a bit more action, that’s your place. But we were not. The Sligachan Hotel has a very good restaurant (The Sligachan Steakhouse and Grill) and a very good pub next door (Seamus’ Bar), and that was all we needed. It also is a very old hotel (it reminded me of the time I stayed in the old part of the Hotel del Coronado: lots of wood, creaky floors, narrow hallways), but the family room we had was large and had three comfortable beds – and a beautiful view of the Red Cuillin, which is spectacular at sunset. Hence the “red” name.
The evening of our arrival, we walked across the road to the old stone bridge and just basked in the beauty of the place – and our tremendous good fortune to be there for the next three nights. We dined at the restaurant that evening. I can’t remember what I had, but B had the venison casserole which was delicious.
I was finally feeling more like myself. Unfortunately, B was quickly becoming quite ill and would be for the rest of our trip.
Jun 25th, 2016, 04:19 PM
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Next morning, we ate our included breakfast in the hotel. I know I had French toast, which was very good. However, the next two days, I had the porridge and I have to say, it was the best porridge I have ever eaten. Now, that may be small praise to some of you, but I do love good oatmeal and was very happy.
Today would be the Trotternish Penninsula, which meant taking the A87 practically outside the hotel drive to Portree and, since we wanted to do it counter-clockwise, transferring there to the A855. On our way to the Old Man of Storr, we saw our first Highland Coo, which garnered a tremendous amount of excitement for some reason.
Also a small stream tumbling out of nowhere, and just this beautiful, beautiful scenery. Again, completely different to what we had seen before, but just as spectacular. And blue sky!!! I mean, I know that is not why they call it ‘Skye’, but it certainly is appropriate. (Apparently it actually comes from a word meaning ‘winged’ because of the shape of the island. Or another word meaning ‘misty’. No one seems to know for sure.)
C hiked up to the Old Man of Storr while B and I waited in the car. I was feeling better but still coughing and I was afraid it would be a bit too much on this day. Beautiful scenes of the Sound of Raasay and the Isle of Raasay in the distance – and a bit of people watching as we saw some starting up the hike unprepared footware-wise.
Another note: End of May does not seem to be high season in Scotland, even though it was by now a bank holiday. The only ‘crowds’ we encountered were in the parking lots of the various well-known hiking spots, such as this one.
Today would be the Trotternish Penninsula, which meant taking the A87 practically outside the hotel drive to Portree and, since we wanted to do it counter-clockwise, transferring there to the A855. On our way to the Old Man of Storr, we saw our first Highland Coo, which garnered a tremendous amount of excitement for some reason.
Also a small stream tumbling out of nowhere, and just this beautiful, beautiful scenery. Again, completely different to what we had seen before, but just as spectacular. And blue sky!!! I mean, I know that is not why they call it ‘Skye’, but it certainly is appropriate. (Apparently it actually comes from a word meaning ‘winged’ because of the shape of the island. Or another word meaning ‘misty’. No one seems to know for sure.)C hiked up to the Old Man of Storr while B and I waited in the car. I was feeling better but still coughing and I was afraid it would be a bit too much on this day. Beautiful scenes of the Sound of Raasay and the Isle of Raasay in the distance – and a bit of people watching as we saw some starting up the hike unprepared footware-wise.
Another note: End of May does not seem to be high season in Scotland, even though it was by now a bank holiday. The only ‘crowds’ we encountered were in the parking lots of the various well-known hiking spots, such as this one.
Jun 25th, 2016, 04:22 PM
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After C’s return and after hearing all about the hike, we continued our drive to the stop at Kilt Rock. I had not expected to be impressed with this place, but it was really beautiful and the Rock was quite impressive. Then again, how could you not be impressed with a waterfall tumbling down a huge drop into the deep blue sea with the unusual kilt-like rockface in the background? Wow.
We stopped in Staffin for a bit of lunch and continued our drive. Honestly, there are no words to describe it. White stone houses with green, green fields full of sheep. I have more photos of sheep than people.
We eventually came to our dilemma: whether to cross the peninsula through the Quiraing or continue around the peninsula to the Duntulm Castle ruins of the MacDonald of the Isles. Well, I did say we have MacDonald blood . . . But it was a hard decision and we will definitely take the other road next time.
However, I don’t regret the decision we made. Those ruins were amazing and on the most gorgeous coastline imaginable! The sea (the Minch) was calm as glass with the Isle of Lewis visible in the distance. So beautiful. Again, there are not enough superlatives.
From here, the road became quite rough and remained so till it rejoined the A87 at Uig. As we again passed through Portree and on to Sligachan, we were met with a gorgeous vista of the two Cuillin ranges, one side red, one side black, framing our drive. What a wonderful first day on Skye!
We stopped in Staffin for a bit of lunch and continued our drive. Honestly, there are no words to describe it. White stone houses with green, green fields full of sheep. I have more photos of sheep than people.
We eventually came to our dilemma: whether to cross the peninsula through the Quiraing or continue around the peninsula to the Duntulm Castle ruins of the MacDonald of the Isles. Well, I did say we have MacDonald blood . . . But it was a hard decision and we will definitely take the other road next time.
However, I don’t regret the decision we made. Those ruins were amazing and on the most gorgeous coastline imaginable! The sea (the Minch) was calm as glass with the Isle of Lewis visible in the distance. So beautiful. Again, there are not enough superlatives.
From here, the road became quite rough and remained so till it rejoined the A87 at Uig. As we again passed through Portree and on to Sligachan, we were met with a gorgeous vista of the two Cuillin ranges, one side red, one side black, framing our drive. What a wonderful first day on Skye!
Jun 25th, 2016, 05:12 PM
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What a wonderful report! So glad you're back to finish it. I love your description of Skye, and appreciate the detail of your ferry booking and routes. I hope to make it there someday, and these notes will come in very handy!
I love your description of Skye, and appreciate the detail of your ferry booking and routes. I hope to make it there someday, and these notes will come in very handy!
Jun 25th, 2016, 05:22 PM
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Dinner that evening, and the next one, was in Seamus’ Bar. I had fish and chips and it was quite tasty although a very large serving.
Next day, B was not at all well and sadly decided to stay in. So, after breakfast (porridge!!!), C and I set off for Neist Point. This was literally a right turn out of the hotel drive onto the A863. We left early so it was quite overcast and a bit misty – but not cold. It actually was a good thing we left early because Fiona (GPS) did not know how to get us to Neist Point and my map was not really clear. (Navigator error, I’m sure.) At any rate, we ended up following a hand-painted sign that sent us the long way around. It was an adventure that included encounters with many sheep on the road (which had to happen in Scotland, right?) and definitely a “road less traveled”, but we eventually made it and found a place to park in the crowded parking lot.
I hiked with C for about 2/3 of the way and waited on my personal cliff side while she continued on to explore the lighthouse and surrounding area. The mist cleared and once again it was a perfect, sunny day. The sea (The Little Minch) was so calm as to be unbelievable. C finished her hike and the two of us began the climb back up. It was much easier finding our way back to the A863 – and we passed our ‘sign’ on the way and saw where we had gone wrong. Crazy funny.
We decided to take advantage of our location and visit Dunvegan Castle after a stop for lunch at a café in the village of Dunvegan. We just did the gardens which were lovely and allowed us some beautiful photos of the Castle. After visiting the gardens, we drove further along the road north and found a viewpoint where we could see the Castle situated on the shores of Loch Dunvegan. Quite a spectacular setting.
As we drove back towards Sligachan, we again got a bit turned around, thinking of visiting Talisker for a tasting. The Navigation gods were not with us this day, but we did find the way to the Fairy Pools and hoped to visit there before leaving Skye the next day as it was one place B really had wanted to see.
Once again, the view of the two Cuillin ranges as we neared Sligachan was just amazing!
Since we missed Talisker, C and I decided to take advantage of the whisky tasting offered at Seamus’ Bar so, after picking up B and eating a bit of dinner, she and I ordered two different tastings with a cheese plate. I have to say, I do like whisky. I don’t have a sophisticated enough palate to catch all the tasting nuances, but my favorite of those I tasted was Highland Park 12, just because it tasted ‘good’. Never mind the smoky sweetness with heather notes.
Next day, B was not at all well and sadly decided to stay in. So, after breakfast (porridge!!!), C and I set off for Neist Point. This was literally a right turn out of the hotel drive onto the A863. We left early so it was quite overcast and a bit misty – but not cold. It actually was a good thing we left early because Fiona (GPS) did not know how to get us to Neist Point and my map was not really clear. (Navigator error, I’m sure.) At any rate, we ended up following a hand-painted sign that sent us the long way around. It was an adventure that included encounters with many sheep on the road (which had to happen in Scotland, right?) and definitely a “road less traveled”, but we eventually made it and found a place to park in the crowded parking lot.
I hiked with C for about 2/3 of the way and waited on my personal cliff side while she continued on to explore the lighthouse and surrounding area. The mist cleared and once again it was a perfect, sunny day. The sea (The Little Minch) was so calm as to be unbelievable. C finished her hike and the two of us began the climb back up. It was much easier finding our way back to the A863 – and we passed our ‘sign’ on the way and saw where we had gone wrong. Crazy funny.
We decided to take advantage of our location and visit Dunvegan Castle after a stop for lunch at a café in the village of Dunvegan. We just did the gardens which were lovely and allowed us some beautiful photos of the Castle. After visiting the gardens, we drove further along the road north and found a viewpoint where we could see the Castle situated on the shores of Loch Dunvegan. Quite a spectacular setting.
As we drove back towards Sligachan, we again got a bit turned around, thinking of visiting Talisker for a tasting. The Navigation gods were not with us this day, but we did find the way to the Fairy Pools and hoped to visit there before leaving Skye the next day as it was one place B really had wanted to see.
Once again, the view of the two Cuillin ranges as we neared Sligachan was just amazing!
Since we missed Talisker, C and I decided to take advantage of the whisky tasting offered at Seamus’ Bar so, after picking up B and eating a bit of dinner, she and I ordered two different tastings with a cheese plate. I have to say, I do like whisky. I don’t have a sophisticated enough palate to catch all the tasting nuances, but my favorite of those I tasted was Highland Park 12, just because it tasted ‘good’. Never mind the smoky sweetness with heather notes.
Jun 25th, 2016, 05:44 PM
#35
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So sad to be leaving Skye the next morning! We did decide to go to the fairy pools before we left. I think it was not the best time of the year to view them, but the area was beautiful and it was a good, but not strenuous, hike. And at the end, a small coffee truck (espresso, latte, etc) that also had water and cold drinks.
We took the A87 over the bridge at Kyle Lochalsh and stopped for a view of Eileen Donan castle. Unfortunately, this day was very windy (we saw our first white caps since arriving at Skye) and the sun was in exactly the wrong location for any really good photos while we were there. But it is quite impressive.
We continued our drive on the A87 along loch after beautiful loch, even spying some feral goats on the side of the road. Big hairy bodies and very long horns. We eventually turned onto the A887 through Glen Morrison (beautiful) till we reached the A82 that runs along Loch Ness. A quick photo stop at Urquhart Castle, then a drive through Drumnadrochit to the A831 that eventually led to our home for the next two nights, Carnoch Farm B&B www.carnoch-farm.co.uk The A831 veers right at Cannich and it is a lovely, tree and bluebell-lined drive to the farm in Strathglass, near the Glens Affric, Cannich, and Strathfarrar.
We took the A87 over the bridge at Kyle Lochalsh and stopped for a view of Eileen Donan castle. Unfortunately, this day was very windy (we saw our first white caps since arriving at Skye) and the sun was in exactly the wrong location for any really good photos while we were there. But it is quite impressive.
We continued our drive on the A87 along loch after beautiful loch, even spying some feral goats on the side of the road. Big hairy bodies and very long horns. We eventually turned onto the A887 through Glen Morrison (beautiful) till we reached the A82 that runs along Loch Ness. A quick photo stop at Urquhart Castle, then a drive through Drumnadrochit to the A831 that eventually led to our home for the next two nights, Carnoch Farm B&B www.carnoch-farm.co.uk The A831 veers right at Cannich and it is a lovely, tree and bluebell-lined drive to the farm in Strathglass, near the Glens Affric, Cannich, and Strathfarrar.
Jun 25th, 2016, 07:26 PM
#37
I ma so enjoying your descriptions! Amazing -- I know <i>exactly</i> where your B&B in Strathglass was -- I stayed a week in a rented cottage just up the road in Aigas.
You are so lucky to have had gorgeous weather during your first visit to Skye - too bad about the various illnesses - has everyone recovered?
>>my favorite of those I tasted was Highland Park 12<<
Nice choice . . . 18 yo is a little smoother but costs a boatload more
A hint re the road across the Trotternish/Quiraing . . . one good option is to just drive to the top Gorgeous scenery and a small car park right below the Quiraing - not even 1/4 of the way. Then you can retrace the drive back down and continue around the peninsula
You are so lucky to have had gorgeous weather during your first visit to Skye - too bad about the various illnesses - has everyone recovered?
>>my favorite of those I tasted was Highland Park 12<<
Nice choice . . . 18 yo is a little smoother but costs a boatload more
A hint re the road across the Trotternish/Quiraing . . . one good option is to just drive to the top Gorgeous scenery and a small car park right below the Quiraing - not even 1/4 of the way. Then you can retrace the drive back down and continue around the peninsula
Jun 26th, 2016, 05:07 PM
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30 May – 1June
We originally planned the stay at Carnoch Farm B&B because another sister who has a toddler was going to come and we thought it would be great for my niece to stay at a farm in Scotland. My sister eventually decided it would not be much fun for a 2-year-old to be carted all over Scotland, but the reservation had been made so we found ourselves in this beautiful place – and I’m so happy we did. Carnoch Farm is what I think of as a “traditional” B&B – your room is actually in the home and you are encouraged to associate with the family in the lounge in the evenings. Because of not feeling up to socializing, we missed the lounge, but we did get to see Eileen feed two orphaned lambs by hand.
Eileen and Graham have been running their B&B since the 90’s. They are in the process of building a separate guest house so I’m not sure if they will continue to rent rooms in their home.
After our arrival and settling in, Eileen recommended the Cnoc Hotel just down the road for dinner. Good suggestion. It was a gorgeous old inn and my duck breast with a cranberry/claret sauce was to die for.
The next day was our day for the Culloden Battlefield. We had a light breakfast (our choice) and left early for the slightly less than an hour drive that took us north through the outskirts of Inverness and down the A9 to the Culloden turnoff (B9006).
We all were extremely impressed with the Culloden visitor center and then the tour of the battlefield on the moor. After going through a very thorough visual presentation of the history leading up to the battle (including a rather haunting film in which you are standing in the field as men all around you are fighting and dying), we were given audio guides which use GPS to tell you everything you could possibly want to know about what happened, where, and to whom. It was moving, that’s all I can say. Very moving.
Afterwards I had my one and only (!!!!) scotch coffee in the visitor center café. Yum.
We spent a good bit of time at Culloden – probably at least 3 hours, maybe more. We then headed to Clava Cairns. I don’t know if it was the leftover emotion from Culloden or just the mysticism of the place, but we were again very moved by these 3,000+ year old stones in this peaceful setting amidst very tall trees. It is only about a 5 minute drive from Culloden and should not be missed, although apparently a lot of people do because there were very few others there besides us.
By this time, B was not feeling well so we headed back to Carnoch Farm. There was still a bit of daylight left so C and I decided to drive up Glen Affric for a bit of hiking. We stopped in Cannich for a very forgettable bite to eat. The evening before, Eileen had told us not to eat in Cannich and we learned why. It wasn’t bad. It just wasn’t good either. I have also forgotten the name of the place, but there are not many choices.
We originally planned the stay at Carnoch Farm B&B because another sister who has a toddler was going to come and we thought it would be great for my niece to stay at a farm in Scotland. My sister eventually decided it would not be much fun for a 2-year-old to be carted all over Scotland, but the reservation had been made so we found ourselves in this beautiful place – and I’m so happy we did. Carnoch Farm is what I think of as a “traditional” B&B – your room is actually in the home and you are encouraged to associate with the family in the lounge in the evenings. Because of not feeling up to socializing, we missed the lounge, but we did get to see Eileen feed two orphaned lambs by hand.
Eileen and Graham have been running their B&B since the 90’s. They are in the process of building a separate guest house so I’m not sure if they will continue to rent rooms in their home.
After our arrival and settling in, Eileen recommended the Cnoc Hotel just down the road for dinner. Good suggestion. It was a gorgeous old inn and my duck breast with a cranberry/claret sauce was to die for.
The next day was our day for the Culloden Battlefield. We had a light breakfast (our choice) and left early for the slightly less than an hour drive that took us north through the outskirts of Inverness and down the A9 to the Culloden turnoff (B9006).
We all were extremely impressed with the Culloden visitor center and then the tour of the battlefield on the moor. After going through a very thorough visual presentation of the history leading up to the battle (including a rather haunting film in which you are standing in the field as men all around you are fighting and dying), we were given audio guides which use GPS to tell you everything you could possibly want to know about what happened, where, and to whom. It was moving, that’s all I can say. Very moving.
Afterwards I had my one and only (!!!!) scotch coffee in the visitor center café. Yum.
We spent a good bit of time at Culloden – probably at least 3 hours, maybe more. We then headed to Clava Cairns. I don’t know if it was the leftover emotion from Culloden or just the mysticism of the place, but we were again very moved by these 3,000+ year old stones in this peaceful setting amidst very tall trees. It is only about a 5 minute drive from Culloden and should not be missed, although apparently a lot of people do because there were very few others there besides us.
By this time, B was not feeling well so we headed back to Carnoch Farm. There was still a bit of daylight left so C and I decided to drive up Glen Affric for a bit of hiking. We stopped in Cannich for a very forgettable bite to eat. The evening before, Eileen had told us not to eat in Cannich and we learned why. It wasn’t bad. It just wasn’t good either. I have also forgotten the name of the place, but there are not many choices.
