SCIALATIELLA TO SFOGLIATELLE; PACCHERI TO PROVOLA: 7 Delectable Days in Amalfi and Naples
May 8th, 2008 | 05:53 PM
#61
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
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Eks,
Really enjoying your report. You're making me want to return just to visit all the great restaurants you tried!
Glad you visited Paestum. I thought it was fascinating. Sounds like the private driver was a great way to get there.
Really enjoying your report. You're making me want to return just to visit all the great restaurants you tried!
Glad you visited Paestum. I thought it was fascinating. Sounds like the private driver was a great way to get there.
May 9th, 2008 | 07:34 AM
#63
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
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The following day, Friday, we had arranged to be collected at 9:30am by Renato Cuomo for the trip to Naples with a stop of 2.5 hours in Pompeii. (I would recommend departing much earlier, so to be present at Pompeii at opening time)
Interesting factoid: Mr. Cuomo once drove then-New York State governor Mario Cuomo and his wife; Cuomo is an old Sorrento name and Mario’s family originated there.
www.cuomonet.it
This was the first time that I remember having had tears in my eyes upon checking out of a hotel. We will never forget Agnese and MariaRosa and hauntingly lovely Amalfi and hope to return in the not-too-distant future. The hotel bill for 5 nights was 700 euro, a price we consider to be a bargain given the comfort level and convenience of the hotel and the charm and efficiency of the owner-managers.
Sr. Cuomo arrived early, at 9am, and by 9:15 with the help of MariaRosa , we had loaded the baggage into his comfortable new van, and were off along the now-familiar drive, through Conca dei Marini and Furore to Agerola and on to the highway towards Pompei. Nearing Pompei, we did spot some overflowing garbage bins, reminders of the trash crisis that grips the Naples region. (We did not encounter much uncollected trash in the city center; more on this later). At 10:30 we were at the entrance gate of Pompeii, at Porta Marina, where Sr. Cuomo let us off and where we would meet him 2.5 hours later for the drive to our hotel in Naples.
The price for the transfer from Amalfi to our Naples hotel, with a stop and 2.5 hours waiting time in Pompeii, was 160 Euro, which seems to be today’s going rate. (I had done some checking in advance and also conferred with Agnese at our hotel on this subject)
Upon entering the gates, we were horrified to encounter a huge crowd in front of the ticket booths. Hundreds of people milled about, many in various states of confusion. Joining the throng, we quickly realized that, fro the looks of things, the wait to buy tickets would eat up at least 30 of our precious minutes. So we quickly scuttled our original plan to tour the site with our trusty guidebook, and Anthony Peregrine’s Times (UK) article on how to avoid the scrum of group tourists “wearing yellow baseball caps or lapel badges.” (This escellent article outlines a 6 hour tour, but we had marked the passages covering the spots we wanted to see, including the Villa of Mysteries)
http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/tol/...icle828603.ece
With our original plan now discarded, we went to plan B. Sprinkled through the crowd were official guides, busily attempting to herd together groups of visitors for their own tours. One of these guides was the English-speaking Ciro Favicchio, who had already assembled most of his group and was attempting to round up a few more stragglers from the crowds clamoring for admission. We quickly realized that only by joining one of these groups could we bypass the huge line and hope to see anything of the site before the appointed meeting time with Sr. Cuomo. So, with much trepidation, I handed over the cash for two entrance tickets and Ciro maneuvered his way to the cashier and returned, two tickets in hand.
These Pompeii guides charge 10 Euro per person for a tour of about 90 minutes; if you are really pressed for time and want to tour the site on your own, you might even consider tipping them a lesser amount to get you the entrance tickets and then go your own way. Many speak excellent, if somewhat quirky, English. The 10 Euro tour fee is collected by the guide at the end of the group tour. Better yet, allow more than 2.5 hours so you will not be crazed when you arrive and notice the amount of people on line before you. Better yet, arrive at opening time! If I were to return, however, I would book a private tour with an academic focus that would hopefully allow more than just a cursory glimpse of the wonders of Pompeii.
And so, scrambling to keep up with our quick-paced tour guide, a group of about 20 English speakers from various countries, set off on a trip back more than 20 centuries to the days when the city of Pompeii was a thriving Roman commercial center of 20,000 or so souls, on the plain of the Sarno River.
I will not go into the history or details about the actual site which can be found in any guidebook, as well as in the very good free booklet and map handed out near the cashier window upon presentation of an entrance ticket. But I will mention that the site is overwhelming, sprawling over 163 acres and clogged with what seemed like thousands of tourists, most hurrying to keep up with their flag-toting guides while snapping pictures in every direction. I had b een to Ercolano years ago and remember this other victim of Vesuvius’ wrath as much less crowded and in a better state of preservation.
Pompeii is just mind-boggling in its vastness. Our guide spent too much time attempting to warm up his audience with jokes and evading most questions that would require substantial explanations. Fine, if you want a quick peek. Not good if you really want a meaningful experience. For some reason, all of the tour guides seem to follow the same route so there are often huge throngs waiting to enter a particular house or area. Why don’t they vary their itinerary? The worst of the crowds appeared at the entrance to the Lupanare, or brothel (#39 o the official map) where paintings on the walls depict the brothel women (slaves, usually Greek or of ‘Oriental” origin) and their “johns” in various erotic positions.
We had especially wanted to visit three places: The House of the Vetii, the House of the Faun, and the Villa dei Misteri. Guide Ciro told us that the first was temporarily closed, but we did manage to convince him to include the second in our tour, which he did only after many requests on my part. We also covered many of the other “main” sites, the Forum, Temple of Apollo, Stabian baths, and Basilica. After almost 90 minutes, we had had enough of the herding around and the superficial commentary and, after paying the guide 20 Euro for the tow of us, struck off on our own for the Villa dei Misteri, which stands about 20 minutes on foot from the Porta Marina entrance along roads of uneven blocks of stone. It goes without saying that comfortable shoes and plenty of water are essential! It was certainly well worth the walk and well worth the entire price of admission to view the frescoes adorning the walls of this sprawling and palatial abode; these depict a young bride on the eve of marriage, surrounded by Bacchus, various handmaidens, children, and other figures and are said to represent among the finest examples of ancient paintings surviving today, while continuing to provoke debate among scholars as to meaning. Here we encountered no large groups and only a few other independent tourists; I suspect that the villa is left off of most group tours because of its location near the northwestern perimeter of the site.
Again, although our visit allowed us a quick peek into the wonder of Pompeii, I would recommend that anyone with a more than cursory interest plan to allow more time than the 2.5 hours we allotted and, ideally, arrange for a tour with a guide whose academic credentials might surpass those of some of the “official” guides for hire on the spot. It is possible, however, that our guide just tailored his group tour to suit what he perceived as the common denominator; he did tell us that he was the author of a guide to Pompeii on sale at the bookshop(Mr. Cuomo later scoffed at this and we had no time to verify) If you want to inquire about the possibility of arranging a private tour with him, his details are:
Dott. Ciro Favicchio [email protected]
Interesting factoid: Mr. Cuomo once drove then-New York State governor Mario Cuomo and his wife; Cuomo is an old Sorrento name and Mario’s family originated there.
www.cuomonet.it
This was the first time that I remember having had tears in my eyes upon checking out of a hotel. We will never forget Agnese and MariaRosa and hauntingly lovely Amalfi and hope to return in the not-too-distant future. The hotel bill for 5 nights was 700 euro, a price we consider to be a bargain given the comfort level and convenience of the hotel and the charm and efficiency of the owner-managers.
Sr. Cuomo arrived early, at 9am, and by 9:15 with the help of MariaRosa , we had loaded the baggage into his comfortable new van, and were off along the now-familiar drive, through Conca dei Marini and Furore to Agerola and on to the highway towards Pompei. Nearing Pompei, we did spot some overflowing garbage bins, reminders of the trash crisis that grips the Naples region. (We did not encounter much uncollected trash in the city center; more on this later). At 10:30 we were at the entrance gate of Pompeii, at Porta Marina, where Sr. Cuomo let us off and where we would meet him 2.5 hours later for the drive to our hotel in Naples.
The price for the transfer from Amalfi to our Naples hotel, with a stop and 2.5 hours waiting time in Pompeii, was 160 Euro, which seems to be today’s going rate. (I had done some checking in advance and also conferred with Agnese at our hotel on this subject)
Upon entering the gates, we were horrified to encounter a huge crowd in front of the ticket booths. Hundreds of people milled about, many in various states of confusion. Joining the throng, we quickly realized that, fro the looks of things, the wait to buy tickets would eat up at least 30 of our precious minutes. So we quickly scuttled our original plan to tour the site with our trusty guidebook, and Anthony Peregrine’s Times (UK) article on how to avoid the scrum of group tourists “wearing yellow baseball caps or lapel badges.” (This escellent article outlines a 6 hour tour, but we had marked the passages covering the spots we wanted to see, including the Villa of Mysteries)
http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/tol/...icle828603.ece
With our original plan now discarded, we went to plan B. Sprinkled through the crowd were official guides, busily attempting to herd together groups of visitors for their own tours. One of these guides was the English-speaking Ciro Favicchio, who had already assembled most of his group and was attempting to round up a few more stragglers from the crowds clamoring for admission. We quickly realized that only by joining one of these groups could we bypass the huge line and hope to see anything of the site before the appointed meeting time with Sr. Cuomo. So, with much trepidation, I handed over the cash for two entrance tickets and Ciro maneuvered his way to the cashier and returned, two tickets in hand.
These Pompeii guides charge 10 Euro per person for a tour of about 90 minutes; if you are really pressed for time and want to tour the site on your own, you might even consider tipping them a lesser amount to get you the entrance tickets and then go your own way. Many speak excellent, if somewhat quirky, English. The 10 Euro tour fee is collected by the guide at the end of the group tour. Better yet, allow more than 2.5 hours so you will not be crazed when you arrive and notice the amount of people on line before you. Better yet, arrive at opening time! If I were to return, however, I would book a private tour with an academic focus that would hopefully allow more than just a cursory glimpse of the wonders of Pompeii.
And so, scrambling to keep up with our quick-paced tour guide, a group of about 20 English speakers from various countries, set off on a trip back more than 20 centuries to the days when the city of Pompeii was a thriving Roman commercial center of 20,000 or so souls, on the plain of the Sarno River.
I will not go into the history or details about the actual site which can be found in any guidebook, as well as in the very good free booklet and map handed out near the cashier window upon presentation of an entrance ticket. But I will mention that the site is overwhelming, sprawling over 163 acres and clogged with what seemed like thousands of tourists, most hurrying to keep up with their flag-toting guides while snapping pictures in every direction. I had b een to Ercolano years ago and remember this other victim of Vesuvius’ wrath as much less crowded and in a better state of preservation.
Pompeii is just mind-boggling in its vastness. Our guide spent too much time attempting to warm up his audience with jokes and evading most questions that would require substantial explanations. Fine, if you want a quick peek. Not good if you really want a meaningful experience. For some reason, all of the tour guides seem to follow the same route so there are often huge throngs waiting to enter a particular house or area. Why don’t they vary their itinerary? The worst of the crowds appeared at the entrance to the Lupanare, or brothel (#39 o the official map) where paintings on the walls depict the brothel women (slaves, usually Greek or of ‘Oriental” origin) and their “johns” in various erotic positions.
We had especially wanted to visit three places: The House of the Vetii, the House of the Faun, and the Villa dei Misteri. Guide Ciro told us that the first was temporarily closed, but we did manage to convince him to include the second in our tour, which he did only after many requests on my part. We also covered many of the other “main” sites, the Forum, Temple of Apollo, Stabian baths, and Basilica. After almost 90 minutes, we had had enough of the herding around and the superficial commentary and, after paying the guide 20 Euro for the tow of us, struck off on our own for the Villa dei Misteri, which stands about 20 minutes on foot from the Porta Marina entrance along roads of uneven blocks of stone. It goes without saying that comfortable shoes and plenty of water are essential! It was certainly well worth the walk and well worth the entire price of admission to view the frescoes adorning the walls of this sprawling and palatial abode; these depict a young bride on the eve of marriage, surrounded by Bacchus, various handmaidens, children, and other figures and are said to represent among the finest examples of ancient paintings surviving today, while continuing to provoke debate among scholars as to meaning. Here we encountered no large groups and only a few other independent tourists; I suspect that the villa is left off of most group tours because of its location near the northwestern perimeter of the site.
Again, although our visit allowed us a quick peek into the wonder of Pompeii, I would recommend that anyone with a more than cursory interest plan to allow more time than the 2.5 hours we allotted and, ideally, arrange for a tour with a guide whose academic credentials might surpass those of some of the “official” guides for hire on the spot. It is possible, however, that our guide just tailored his group tour to suit what he perceived as the common denominator; he did tell us that he was the author of a guide to Pompeii on sale at the bookshop(Mr. Cuomo later scoffed at this and we had no time to verify) If you want to inquire about the possibility of arranging a private tour with him, his details are:
Dott. Ciro Favicchio [email protected]
May 9th, 2008 | 08:24 AM
#64
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 783
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Eksc - Thank you so much for this detailed report. You have changed my mind to base in Amalfi and I will have to give careful consideration as to when we visit Pompeii.
If I may ask about Hotel Floridiana...do any terrace rooms have a water view? I had my heart set on being able to sit out at night after sightseeing, sipping on wine or a limoncello, however I realize I may have to make adjustments. This hotel is 100 E less than the one I was looking at in Positano (with view) which certainly makes it appealing...especially too because I may be paying part of the hotel bill for the other couple going with us. Your comment about the noise in the terrace rooms also concerns me as I would like a quiet room. If you can provide any more details about Hotel Floridiana, I would appreciate it?
If I may ask about Hotel Floridiana...do any terrace rooms have a water view? I had my heart set on being able to sit out at night after sightseeing, sipping on wine or a limoncello, however I realize I may have to make adjustments. This hotel is 100 E less than the one I was looking at in Positano (with view) which certainly makes it appealing...especially too because I may be paying part of the hotel bill for the other couple going with us. Your comment about the noise in the terrace rooms also concerns me as I would like a quiet room. If you can provide any more details about Hotel Floridiana, I would appreciate it?
May 9th, 2008 | 10:57 AM
#65
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Joined: May 2005
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Travelfan: There are no rooms with a water view. The hotel is in the town, about a 3 minute walk from the water. I, too, had that idea of sitting out on the terrace and relaxing, but decided against spending so much more for the privledge. However, I did come across a couple of other hotels in Amalfi that do offer water views. I did not go inside these but you could check the prices of the Marinariviera and the Miramalfi, and also the Bussola.
There are SO many places to relax and drink on the sea in Amalfi that it really did not matter to us that we did not have our own terrace. But remember that I was not on a honeymoon, so if you are looking for a really romantic hotel, I am not sure that the Floridiana would fit the bill because of the lack of view.
The hotel is so delightful and the people so gracious that I would urge you to consider if it meets your needs. We did not hear ANY noise from our room; the glazing is very good. But since it is on the street, I wanted to mention this because sometimes people here say that they are such light sleepers that outside noise would disturb them. Agnese, the owner, is very responsive to e-mails so you could ask her any questions. I am very happy to tell you anything else about the hotel, or about Amalfi. Just ask!
Also this is one instance that the photos on the website really undersell the hotel..it is nicer than it looks in the photos.
There are SO many places to relax and drink on the sea in Amalfi that it really did not matter to us that we did not have our own terrace. But remember that I was not on a honeymoon, so if you are looking for a really romantic hotel, I am not sure that the Floridiana would fit the bill because of the lack of view.
The hotel is so delightful and the people so gracious that I would urge you to consider if it meets your needs. We did not hear ANY noise from our room; the glazing is very good. But since it is on the street, I wanted to mention this because sometimes people here say that they are such light sleepers that outside noise would disturb them. Agnese, the owner, is very responsive to e-mails so you could ask her any questions. I am very happy to tell you anything else about the hotel, or about Amalfi. Just ask!
Also this is one instance that the photos on the website really undersell the hotel..it is nicer than it looks in the photos.
May 9th, 2008 | 11:40 AM
#66
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Last July my boyfriend and I spent 10 days in Cetera, lodging at the Cetus Hotel. It was lovely, we had a small balcony overlooking the bay. Almost every night, there was a fireworks display, just outside our windows, for various occasions.
The staff was very friendly, and were frantic when we did not come back one night. They called the hospital and the police to find us! We could not find the bus back from Pompeii and were forced to spend the night!! I do not recommend the Villa Diana, a real dump near the bus depot in Pompeii. Ugh, but at lest we had a place to sleep.
I remembered many of the spots described...Ravello, Amalfi, Midori.
I fondly recall the 3 woman in a local shop who helped me pick out clothing for my boyfriend . His luggage was a no show (thanks, Alitalia) for the whole trip, and we were constantly buying shirts and pants and underwear, hoping that each day would be the day the suitcase would bew found. NOT! Tehy were so happy with the amount of clothing purchased, that they gave me a bag of lemons to take back to the hotel. We had them squeezed and drank som great lemonade the next day.
The evening before our return trip, we also dined at Al Covento. It was delightful, and probably the best meal of the entire trip. I have a photo of the two of us sitting on the balcony, enjoying a glass of manderinocello (sp?) after dinner. Ah, what a delight!
The staff was very friendly, and were frantic when we did not come back one night. They called the hospital and the police to find us! We could not find the bus back from Pompeii and were forced to spend the night!! I do not recommend the Villa Diana, a real dump near the bus depot in Pompeii. Ugh, but at lest we had a place to sleep.
I remembered many of the spots described...Ravello, Amalfi, Midori.
I fondly recall the 3 woman in a local shop who helped me pick out clothing for my boyfriend . His luggage was a no show (thanks, Alitalia) for the whole trip, and we were constantly buying shirts and pants and underwear, hoping that each day would be the day the suitcase would bew found. NOT! Tehy were so happy with the amount of clothing purchased, that they gave me a bag of lemons to take back to the hotel. We had them squeezed and drank som great lemonade the next day.
The evening before our return trip, we also dined at Al Covento. It was delightful, and probably the best meal of the entire trip. I have a photo of the two of us sitting on the balcony, enjoying a glass of manderinocello (sp?) after dinner. Ah, what a delight!
May 9th, 2008 | 11:58 AM
#67
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,319
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Squeaky I am delighted to read of your experiences at the Cetus! I think it would be a wonderful place to stay and I have now put it on my list for the future! Is there a beach of any kind at the hotel, or do guests go to the town beach?
Many, many thanks for reporting on your stay there!
Many, many thanks for reporting on your stay there!
May 9th, 2008 | 03:05 PM
#69
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,319
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NAPLES
We arrived in Naples about 1:30 and Sr. Cuomo dropped us off at Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri in the Chiaia district between the Piazza dei Martiri and the Via Chiaia. I had vacillated once again, in our choice of hotel, between the historic center of Naples and the more upscale Chiaia. The historic district would be closer to Spaccanapoli and most of the sights we planned to visit on this trip, but I perceived Chiaia as being closer to restaurants and, more important, safer. I was glad we had chosen the Palazzo Alabardieri, which we thought was an excellent hotel at a decent price, 195 Euro. (The hotel is currently rated #2 of Naples hotels on Trip Advisor) The rack rate was 220 but we received the lower price by booking on the hotel’s website:
http://www.hotelpalazzoalabardieri.com/
Since our room was not ready on arrival, we were accoreded the courtesy of an upgrade to a superior room which was quite luxurious, with a comfortable King-sized bed and high quality linens, large bathroom with shower and Rance amenities, sofa, and revolving television set that offered what seemed like a thousand channels streamed in from everywhere from Abu Dhabi to the US.
While waiting for the room to be readied, we set out for a walk to the sea and along the Via Partenope, where sunbathers were sprawled along the rocks and people were out strolling and enjoying the glorious weather of this holiday weekend, to the Piazza del Plebicito and along the Via Chiaia, eventually returning to the hotel. I had been anxious about Naples, due to reports I had read about petty crime and especially after being robbed in Palermo, but I quickly relaxed. We liked Naples very much from our first moments in the city. If there is a city whose people appear more filled with the sheer joy of life, I have not yet been there!
Once back at the hotel, we quickly unpacked a few things before setting out once again, this time for the district known as Spaccanapoli. On the way, we made the first of what would be many snack breaks, at Sfogliatelle Mary, at the Via Toledo entrance to the Galleria Umberto. More on this stupendous little shop and its miraculous namesake treats, soon….
We arrived in Naples about 1:30 and Sr. Cuomo dropped us off at Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri in the Chiaia district between the Piazza dei Martiri and the Via Chiaia. I had vacillated once again, in our choice of hotel, between the historic center of Naples and the more upscale Chiaia. The historic district would be closer to Spaccanapoli and most of the sights we planned to visit on this trip, but I perceived Chiaia as being closer to restaurants and, more important, safer. I was glad we had chosen the Palazzo Alabardieri, which we thought was an excellent hotel at a decent price, 195 Euro. (The hotel is currently rated #2 of Naples hotels on Trip Advisor) The rack rate was 220 but we received the lower price by booking on the hotel’s website:
http://www.hotelpalazzoalabardieri.com/
Since our room was not ready on arrival, we were accoreded the courtesy of an upgrade to a superior room which was quite luxurious, with a comfortable King-sized bed and high quality linens, large bathroom with shower and Rance amenities, sofa, and revolving television set that offered what seemed like a thousand channels streamed in from everywhere from Abu Dhabi to the US.
While waiting for the room to be readied, we set out for a walk to the sea and along the Via Partenope, where sunbathers were sprawled along the rocks and people were out strolling and enjoying the glorious weather of this holiday weekend, to the Piazza del Plebicito and along the Via Chiaia, eventually returning to the hotel. I had been anxious about Naples, due to reports I had read about petty crime and especially after being robbed in Palermo, but I quickly relaxed. We liked Naples very much from our first moments in the city. If there is a city whose people appear more filled with the sheer joy of life, I have not yet been there!
Once back at the hotel, we quickly unpacked a few things before setting out once again, this time for the district known as Spaccanapoli. On the way, we made the first of what would be many snack breaks, at Sfogliatelle Mary, at the Via Toledo entrance to the Galleria Umberto. More on this stupendous little shop and its miraculous namesake treats, soon….
May 10th, 2008 | 05:58 AM
#70
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,319
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Here are just a few more tidbits before my weekend break away from the computer:
I have never considered myself to be a fan of Italian pastry, an opinion shaped, no doubt, by too many soggy cannoli here in the US. That view quickly went out the window after having my first bite at Sfofgliatelle Mary, the tiny take-out stall on Via Toledo, considered to be one of the best purveyors of this typical Neopolitan delight in the city. Sfogliatelle is a multi-layered composition of thin sheets of pastry enclosing a filling of sweetened ricotta cheese often flavored with citrus peel and served warm from the oven. No description can do these justice!! Make certain you sample these on your visit to Naples! Here is a photo, and further description:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sfogliatelle
This was just the first of several food epiphanies we had on that first day in Naples.
Sated with our mid-afternoon treat, we continued our walk north along the Via Toledo, mingling with what seemed like thousands of Neopolitans strolling and shopping, both in the boutiques lining the street and at the make-shift sidewalk posts of immigrant vendors offering sunglasses (huge and studded with rhinestones are the ones to buy this season) and replicas of designer handbags. The police keep the latter on the run and time after time we saw these West African vendors sweep up the white sheets with their merchandise into a bundle at the approach of the snappily uniformed Guardia de la Fianza, and beat a hasty retreat, only to return to the same sidewalk spot within minutes.
Fashion note: In addition to the huge, rhinestone-adorned sunglasses, which should shield a good proportion of one’s face (!), there were at least two other “essentials” this season:
Belt buckles, the larger the better and also studded with rhinestones, and boots (for women). Flat boots, high-heeled boots, worn despite the outdoor temperatures, with short skirts, with shorts, and with cropped pants, these last two worn as tight as possible. Those are just the basics. Neopolitan fashion styles are different than those we had seen further north on previous trips. More flamboyant, for one thing, to match the city itself.
I have never considered myself to be a fan of Italian pastry, an opinion shaped, no doubt, by too many soggy cannoli here in the US. That view quickly went out the window after having my first bite at Sfofgliatelle Mary, the tiny take-out stall on Via Toledo, considered to be one of the best purveyors of this typical Neopolitan delight in the city. Sfogliatelle is a multi-layered composition of thin sheets of pastry enclosing a filling of sweetened ricotta cheese often flavored with citrus peel and served warm from the oven. No description can do these justice!! Make certain you sample these on your visit to Naples! Here is a photo, and further description:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sfogliatelle
This was just the first of several food epiphanies we had on that first day in Naples.
Sated with our mid-afternoon treat, we continued our walk north along the Via Toledo, mingling with what seemed like thousands of Neopolitans strolling and shopping, both in the boutiques lining the street and at the make-shift sidewalk posts of immigrant vendors offering sunglasses (huge and studded with rhinestones are the ones to buy this season) and replicas of designer handbags. The police keep the latter on the run and time after time we saw these West African vendors sweep up the white sheets with their merchandise into a bundle at the approach of the snappily uniformed Guardia de la Fianza, and beat a hasty retreat, only to return to the same sidewalk spot within minutes.
Fashion note: In addition to the huge, rhinestone-adorned sunglasses, which should shield a good proportion of one’s face (!), there were at least two other “essentials” this season:
Belt buckles, the larger the better and also studded with rhinestones, and boots (for women). Flat boots, high-heeled boots, worn despite the outdoor temperatures, with short skirts, with shorts, and with cropped pants, these last two worn as tight as possible. Those are just the basics. Neopolitan fashion styles are different than those we had seen further north on previous trips. More flamboyant, for one thing, to match the city itself.
May 10th, 2008 | 07:24 AM
#73
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 25,319
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Dina4: I am glad you are enjoying. I wish I could be on the plane with you on your upcoming trip!
Where are you headed in Sardinia? Can you tell us your hotels for each of your different stops? (I just like dreaming..)
I will finish up after the weekend; more good eating and exploring in Naples to come! I realize in reading this over that people will think that all we cared about is food! Well, that is not the entire truth but it certainly plays a big role in every trip!
Here is a report I wrote on Rome early last year, with lots of food, and another on Tuscany and Bologna from 2006:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34931625
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34743272
Where are you headed in Sardinia? Can you tell us your hotels for each of your different stops? (I just like dreaming..)
I will finish up after the weekend; more good eating and exploring in Naples to come! I realize in reading this over that people will think that all we cared about is food! Well, that is not the entire truth but it certainly plays a big role in every trip!
Here is a report I wrote on Rome early last year, with lots of food, and another on Tuscany and Bologna from 2006:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34931625
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34743272
May 11th, 2008 | 03:47 AM
#75
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,074
Likes: 0
Thanks for such a great report. I am going to the Amalfi Coast this October for 1 week and anxiously looking forward to eating at some of the restaurants that you mentioned. My last trip to that area was in Oct. 2000 and I really am very excited about returning to one of my favorite vacation sites.
May 12th, 2008 | 03:24 AM
#76
Joined: Jul 2004
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More great stuff, eks ! So glad to hear you liked Naples.
Your report of the crowds at Pompeii has made me think even more I'll stick to my plan of visiting it outwith the summer months one year, to try to avoid the crowds & heat - I'm thinking maybe it would be nice to go for a long weekend around March to see Pompeii, Herculaneum and the Phlegrean Fields. You were there in early May, weren't you ? Surprised to hear it was already so busy. Did you see stray dogs ? A previous poster did put me off slightly by saying there were lots & it wouldn't be much fun for anyone who doesn't like dogs.
Your report of the crowds at Pompeii has made me think even more I'll stick to my plan of visiting it outwith the summer months one year, to try to avoid the crowds & heat - I'm thinking maybe it would be nice to go for a long weekend around March to see Pompeii, Herculaneum and the Phlegrean Fields. You were there in early May, weren't you ? Surprised to hear it was already so busy. Did you see stray dogs ? A previous poster did put me off slightly by saying there were lots & it wouldn't be much fun for anyone who doesn't like dogs.
May 12th, 2008 | 04:52 AM
#77
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Joined: May 2005
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Caroline I did not see any stray dogs at Pompeii or anywhere else. But the crowds the first week in May (this was Friday May 2 so it might have been more crowded than usual) were immense.
But I suspect that with better planning I could have avoided some of them: Maybe by going earlier or by first visiting some of the less-well-known places within the site. I think everyone congregates around the places close to the entrance and follows the same general plan; that is why that article from the Times would be good to use as a general guide. But that said, it would certainly be better to go in March! You are so fortunate to be closer to Italy than we are here in the US!
But I suspect that with better planning I could have avoided some of them: Maybe by going earlier or by first visiting some of the less-well-known places within the site. I think everyone congregates around the places close to the entrance and follows the same general plan; that is why that article from the Times would be good to use as a general guide. But that said, it would certainly be better to go in March! You are so fortunate to be closer to Italy than we are here in the US!
May 12th, 2008 | 05:55 AM
#78
Joined: Jan 2003
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I keep saying I want to go to Italy, now I really <b>have</b> to go to Italy!!
We bought buratta in Zupans Mkt in Portland Or the last summer we were there, oh my....
I have not had good Sfogliatele since leaving NY...see...I Have to go to Italy!!
Thanks ekscrunchy, this is my husbands reading assignment for tonight
We bought buratta in Zupans Mkt in Portland Or the last summer we were there, oh my....
I have not had good Sfogliatele since leaving NY...see...I Have to go to Italy!!
Thanks ekscrunchy, this is my husbands reading assignment for tonight
May 12th, 2008 | 09:06 AM
#79
Joined: Apr 2003
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EKSCRUNCY:
The Cetus was the tour hotel (ABC, don't recommend them at all) and we stayed there 10 days. There is a nice beach, you need to climb down a flight of stairs to get to the bottom. Small snack stand, chaises, umbrellas, perfect for a day at the beach. Loved the hotel, hated the tour personnel.
The Cetus was the tour hotel (ABC, don't recommend them at all) and we stayed there 10 days. There is a nice beach, you need to climb down a flight of stairs to get to the bottom. Small snack stand, chaises, umbrellas, perfect for a day at the beach. Loved the hotel, hated the tour personnel.
May 12th, 2008 | 09:13 AM
#80
Joined: Feb 2005
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Eks -
I just read your Montepulciano trip report and saw that I am staying at the same hotel in Montepulciano. I am so glad to hear you enjoyed your stay. I am thinking about a tour of Avignonesi. Just looked at the website and it looks wonderful. Hopefully they still have availability. We leave in less than two weeks.
BTW - At dinner (Central by Michel Richard in DC) on Saturday I had a wonderful appetizer of Burrata with roasted little peeled cherry tomatoes. It was creamy, oozy heaven. $14 for the app. I did not think that was too bad.
Thanks again for the report. I also had one quick question. We are driving from Montepulciano to the AC. We are going to drive alon gthe coast and stop in Ravello for lunch before returning our car at 6 pm in Sorrento. Would you recommend stopping in Cetara for lunch over Ravello? I thought we should try something a little more out of the way while we still have a car. We are staying in Positano.
I just read your Montepulciano trip report and saw that I am staying at the same hotel in Montepulciano. I am so glad to hear you enjoyed your stay. I am thinking about a tour of Avignonesi. Just looked at the website and it looks wonderful. Hopefully they still have availability. We leave in less than two weeks.
BTW - At dinner (Central by Michel Richard in DC) on Saturday I had a wonderful appetizer of Burrata with roasted little peeled cherry tomatoes. It was creamy, oozy heaven. $14 for the app. I did not think that was too bad.
Thanks again for the report. I also had one quick question. We are driving from Montepulciano to the AC. We are going to drive alon gthe coast and stop in Ravello for lunch before returning our car at 6 pm in Sorrento. Would you recommend stopping in Cetara for lunch over Ravello? I thought we should try something a little more out of the way while we still have a car. We are staying in Positano.
