SCIALATIELLA TO SFOGLIATELLE; PACCHERI TO PROVOLA: 7 Delectable Days in Amalfi and Naples
May 8th, 2008, 06:25 AM
#41
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Susan, thank you for that information. DiPalo is one of a few places selling burrata here in NYC; I think they get shipments by air twice a week but even so, the cheese is probably not in optimal condition when it arrives. $19 at Bar Pitti..amazing, but I guess the shipping is high.
I have already been dreaming about another trip to Italy and Puglia is one of the places on my list (Ligurian coast being the other main contender with Capri/Sorrento running a distant third, along with Tropea). Did you by any chance write a report?
I have already been dreaming about another trip to Italy and Puglia is one of the places on my list (Ligurian coast being the other main contender with Capri/Sorrento running a distant third, along with Tropea). Did you by any chance write a report?
May 8th, 2008, 06:36 AM
#42
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Photo (not mine) of temple (one of three) at Paestum:
http://www.thisfabtrek.com/journey/e...m-temple-4.jpg
http://www.thisfabtrek.com/journey/e...m-temple-4.jpg
May 8th, 2008, 07:45 AM
#44
This is a wonderful report.
About that colatura stuff -- I bought some after the NYT's article, and tried it again another time, but never got great results. (This from an anchovy, olove oil and garlic fan.) Do you have an idea of the ideal proportions?
About that colatura stuff -- I bought some after the NYT's article, and tried it again another time, but never got great results. (This from an anchovy, olove oil and garlic fan.) Do you have an idea of the ideal proportions?
May 8th, 2008, 08:39 AM
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Fra Diavolo: There is a recipe in the times link that I posted above. Also, I think that Franco posted on here in one of three long threads: either the thread about Italian food or one of two I started: My Rome trip report or a thread about "Easy Side Trips from Rome." I will try to find them and post here.
I also bought a bottle after I read that article; it has been sitting on my kitchen shelf for a year or so! But I am going use it soon; the main thing to remember is that there was NOT a strong taste of anchovy in the spaghetti colatura I sampled in Cetara. Maybe try adding spoonfull by spoonfull to the sauce (??)
Anyway, here is a bit more:
I wrote this earlier but want to say it once more: Cetara would make a wonderful daytrip from any of the more touristed towns of the coast for anyone interested in seeing a village relatively untouched by mass tourism. On our two short visits we saw only three other obvious outsiders (a group of young Germans). Again, the Hotel Cetus might be a place to consider here (although we did not visit, we heard good things about this hotel). Cetara has a beach and in season there is apparently an opportunity to go out on the boats of the anchovy fishermen. For a village this small, Cetara is notable for having three restaurants listed in the SlowFood guide and acclaimed up and down this coast. After our visit to Paestum, we had lunch of the second of these, San Pietro, which overlooks the main square across the street and down a flight of steps from the SITA bus stop on the main road. We were interested to find a plaque in the main square commemorating the Jews of the area that had been deported during the second world war.
Ristorante San Pietro (closed Tuesdays off season) is a family owned place with an interior dining room and an open-air terrace. The ambience is slightly more “fancy” than that of Al Convento, where we had dined two days before. Our driver, Dino, had phoned ahead to reserve, which I would suggest even at lunchtime, as the restaurant is not large. Upon arriving we were presented with a brief menu of daily specials. Much to the dismay of my supposedly fish-hating travel partner (“supposedly” because he does make exceptions once in a while, as long as no shells are visible), every dish contained seafood of some kind, mostly the pesce azzurro (dark-fleshed fish: sardines, anchovies etc) for which this area is famous. No worries! After recovering from his surprise that anyone not enamored of fish would choose to dine here, the owner suggested a pasta dish of paccheri (short, thick tubes) in a sauce of mozzarella and tomato. I inquired about the artichokes we had seen near Paestum, only to be told that this was a specialty of Paestum and that the season was coming to a close. (This underscores the emphasis on local fare: Paestum is about an hour away and thus, artichokes from that area were viewed as coming from afar!)
At the recommendation of the owner, I selected the Antipasto Cetarese (10 Euro) which represented the area’s specialties in various guises. First came a dish of farro with pesce azzurro..delicious and unusual (to me) combination of fish with this ancient grain (according to Lidia Bastianich, who features a farro/mussel/chickpea dish in her “Lidia’s Italy” book, seafood combined with farro is a combination also prevalent in Puglia).
The next plate to arrive was a superb Tonno sott’ Olio--marvelous local tuna preserved in olive oil, reminiscent of the fine (and expensive) product available in glass jars in local food shops. (I recommend bringing some home, as prices are much lower than those in the US; I wish I had done this!). Truly wonderful. (I had trouble keeping this on my plate as it apparently appealed very much to my partner.)
Two types of anchovy, dark meat preserved in oil and white skinned fish in a vinegar base, came next, followed by a wonderful strudel of tuna and ricotta (here we have the fish/cheese combination again!)
This plate was served with a plate of small, hard biscuits studded with anchovies..pane de pescatore. You can imagine how these would be a staple of fisherman who spent long periods offshore but they must be an acquired taste. Interesting, though. I tried to find a recipe to post but those I saw had sugar and raisins, which these did not; apparently there are versions in several coastal regions of Italy.
After the antipasti, I had an excellent rendition of spaghetti vongole and the TP enthused over his paccheri.
Most of the diners at the other tables (the place was full; everyone else appeared to be local) were enjoying various pastas followed by fish, which I would sample on a future visit.
With water, but no wine, the bill totaled 54 Euro. Recommended (my companion liked Al Convento better, though; that restaurant has a much broader menu and a more casual feeling; they also serve pizza, as I mentioned)
By 3pm, we were aboard the SITA bus bound for Amalfi.
I have already mentioned the spectacular scenery along this stretch of coast. I also want to mention, for those interested in beaches on the Amalfi coast, that the town of Maiori has a vast beach, perhaps the longest on the coast. The town itself (the parts we saw fronting the drive) is more modern and less picturesque than others, (Maiori suffered a devastating flood and was extensively rebuilt) but my guess is that it would make a good base for anyone interested in well- priced accommodations in a “real” town. (The owner of the Hotel Floridiana lives here, as does Dino, our driver that day). Here is one hotel that was recommended to me in Maiori:
http://www.casaraffaeleconforti.it/eng/index.asp
And here is one that looks good and has reasonable prices:
http://www.palazzococo.it/index.htm
On the way back to the hotel, we passed through the Porta della Marina entrance to Amalfi and noticed a ceramic plaque on the wall which reads, in translation (please forgive mistakes!):
“Judgement Day when the Amalfitani go to Heaven, will be a day the same as any other day.”
I also bought a bottle after I read that article; it has been sitting on my kitchen shelf for a year or so! But I am going use it soon; the main thing to remember is that there was NOT a strong taste of anchovy in the spaghetti colatura I sampled in Cetara. Maybe try adding spoonfull by spoonfull to the sauce (??)
Anyway, here is a bit more:
I wrote this earlier but want to say it once more: Cetara would make a wonderful daytrip from any of the more touristed towns of the coast for anyone interested in seeing a village relatively untouched by mass tourism. On our two short visits we saw only three other obvious outsiders (a group of young Germans). Again, the Hotel Cetus might be a place to consider here (although we did not visit, we heard good things about this hotel). Cetara has a beach and in season there is apparently an opportunity to go out on the boats of the anchovy fishermen. For a village this small, Cetara is notable for having three restaurants listed in the SlowFood guide and acclaimed up and down this coast. After our visit to Paestum, we had lunch of the second of these, San Pietro, which overlooks the main square across the street and down a flight of steps from the SITA bus stop on the main road. We were interested to find a plaque in the main square commemorating the Jews of the area that had been deported during the second world war.
Ristorante San Pietro (closed Tuesdays off season) is a family owned place with an interior dining room and an open-air terrace. The ambience is slightly more “fancy” than that of Al Convento, where we had dined two days before. Our driver, Dino, had phoned ahead to reserve, which I would suggest even at lunchtime, as the restaurant is not large. Upon arriving we were presented with a brief menu of daily specials. Much to the dismay of my supposedly fish-hating travel partner (“supposedly” because he does make exceptions once in a while, as long as no shells are visible), every dish contained seafood of some kind, mostly the pesce azzurro (dark-fleshed fish: sardines, anchovies etc) for which this area is famous. No worries! After recovering from his surprise that anyone not enamored of fish would choose to dine here, the owner suggested a pasta dish of paccheri (short, thick tubes) in a sauce of mozzarella and tomato. I inquired about the artichokes we had seen near Paestum, only to be told that this was a specialty of Paestum and that the season was coming to a close. (This underscores the emphasis on local fare: Paestum is about an hour away and thus, artichokes from that area were viewed as coming from afar!)
At the recommendation of the owner, I selected the Antipasto Cetarese (10 Euro) which represented the area’s specialties in various guises. First came a dish of farro with pesce azzurro..delicious and unusual (to me) combination of fish with this ancient grain (according to Lidia Bastianich, who features a farro/mussel/chickpea dish in her “Lidia’s Italy” book, seafood combined with farro is a combination also prevalent in Puglia).
The next plate to arrive was a superb Tonno sott’ Olio--marvelous local tuna preserved in olive oil, reminiscent of the fine (and expensive) product available in glass jars in local food shops. (I recommend bringing some home, as prices are much lower than those in the US; I wish I had done this!). Truly wonderful. (I had trouble keeping this on my plate as it apparently appealed very much to my partner.)
Two types of anchovy, dark meat preserved in oil and white skinned fish in a vinegar base, came next, followed by a wonderful strudel of tuna and ricotta (here we have the fish/cheese combination again!)
This plate was served with a plate of small, hard biscuits studded with anchovies..pane de pescatore. You can imagine how these would be a staple of fisherman who spent long periods offshore but they must be an acquired taste. Interesting, though. I tried to find a recipe to post but those I saw had sugar and raisins, which these did not; apparently there are versions in several coastal regions of Italy.
After the antipasti, I had an excellent rendition of spaghetti vongole and the TP enthused over his paccheri.
Most of the diners at the other tables (the place was full; everyone else appeared to be local) were enjoying various pastas followed by fish, which I would sample on a future visit.
With water, but no wine, the bill totaled 54 Euro. Recommended (my companion liked Al Convento better, though; that restaurant has a much broader menu and a more casual feeling; they also serve pizza, as I mentioned)
By 3pm, we were aboard the SITA bus bound for Amalfi.
I have already mentioned the spectacular scenery along this stretch of coast. I also want to mention, for those interested in beaches on the Amalfi coast, that the town of Maiori has a vast beach, perhaps the longest on the coast. The town itself (the parts we saw fronting the drive) is more modern and less picturesque than others, (Maiori suffered a devastating flood and was extensively rebuilt) but my guess is that it would make a good base for anyone interested in well- priced accommodations in a “real” town. (The owner of the Hotel Floridiana lives here, as does Dino, our driver that day). Here is one hotel that was recommended to me in Maiori:
http://www.casaraffaeleconforti.it/eng/index.asp
And here is one that looks good and has reasonable prices:
http://www.palazzococo.it/index.htm
On the way back to the hotel, we passed through the Porta della Marina entrance to Amalfi and noticed a ceramic plaque on the wall which reads, in translation (please forgive mistakes!):
“Judgement Day when the Amalfitani go to Heaven, will be a day the same as any other day.”
May 8th, 2008, 08:56 AM
#46
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Eks-
Once again, another delicious foodie report. The Amalfi coast is one of my favorite places and I relish the thought of spending a full week there someday. Sigh. Wish I was leaving tomorrow.
Just wondering, do you take pictures when you travel? You never post any of your own.
Once again, another delicious foodie report. The Amalfi coast is one of my favorite places and I relish the thought of spending a full week there someday. Sigh. Wish I was leaving tomorrow.
Just wondering, do you take pictures when you travel? You never post any of your own.
May 8th, 2008, 09:15 AM
#47
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After short rest at the hotel, we walked west along the beach promenade and up the steps to the main road, heading for the Santa Caterina, Amalfi’s swankest hotel. Again, staff were most welcoming. The hotel is absolutely gorgeous and the views of the open sea and the town of Amalfi are stupendous. (More dramatic than those of Le Sireneuse in Positano, which is in the same class). The walk along the main road is not very pleasant but I suppose most guests stay put at the hotel for much of their stay; there is a pool (open when we visited) on the rocks overlooking the sea and the gardens are beautiful.
Sated from lunch, we decided on a simple dinner featuring pizza. I stopped into a local food shop on the main street and inquired about the best pizzerie in town. The friendly owner suggested two, both with wood-burning ovens: San Giuseppe (?) to the left as you face the Duomo, and Il Teatro, in the maze of scalinatelli (with your back to the sea, on your left). We headed for Il Teatro, at #19, Via E. Marini.
This casual restaurant/pizzeria, with its white walls hung with old photos of Amalfi (including one taken right after liberation, showing American tanks parked in front of the Duomo, and another taken in the throes of a bad storm and depicting immense waves crashing on the point under the Hotel Luna Convento) was filled with a mix of tourists and locals. It is a family operation run by a somewhat harried woman who directs much of her annoyance at her husband, who “supervises” calmly while she rushes to and fro taking orders and directing the cooks in the back.
I chose, again, the grilled provola cheese wrapped in lemon leaves. And with this, a green salad. We then shared a pizza Margherita (7 euro) which was, no surprise here, excellent. I do not, however, recommend the house rose!! With a spremute di limone and a Diet Pepsi, the bill here was 24 Euro. There is a fairly extensive non-pizza menu (seafood appeared on several other tables). Very good, especially for pizza. Fast service; tiled, wood-burning oven in the back. Remember to look at those photos!
Sated from lunch, we decided on a simple dinner featuring pizza. I stopped into a local food shop on the main street and inquired about the best pizzerie in town. The friendly owner suggested two, both with wood-burning ovens: San Giuseppe (?) to the left as you face the Duomo, and Il Teatro, in the maze of scalinatelli (with your back to the sea, on your left). We headed for Il Teatro, at #19, Via E. Marini.
This casual restaurant/pizzeria, with its white walls hung with old photos of Amalfi (including one taken right after liberation, showing American tanks parked in front of the Duomo, and another taken in the throes of a bad storm and depicting immense waves crashing on the point under the Hotel Luna Convento) was filled with a mix of tourists and locals. It is a family operation run by a somewhat harried woman who directs much of her annoyance at her husband, who “supervises” calmly while she rushes to and fro taking orders and directing the cooks in the back.
I chose, again, the grilled provola cheese wrapped in lemon leaves. And with this, a green salad. We then shared a pizza Margherita (7 euro) which was, no surprise here, excellent. I do not, however, recommend the house rose!! With a spremute di limone and a Diet Pepsi, the bill here was 24 Euro. There is a fairly extensive non-pizza menu (seafood appeared on several other tables). Very good, especially for pizza. Fast service; tiled, wood-burning oven in the back. Remember to look at those photos!
May 8th, 2008, 09:19 AM
#48
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Kristina: Thanks. I wish I could get on the plane with you right this minute! I definitely want to return. Soon!!
To answer your question, I do take digital photos but much to my embarrassment I do not know how to post them. (I am not computer savvy!) I have someone who helps me (further embarrassment!) put them on iPhoto but I can't post them from there....but I will work on this because one day I might like to have some kind of record with pics of my travel journals..
To answer your question, I do take digital photos but much to my embarrassment I do not know how to post them. (I am not computer savvy!) I have someone who helps me (further embarrassment!) put them on iPhoto but I can't post them from there....but I will work on this because one day I might like to have some kind of record with pics of my travel journals..
May 8th, 2008, 09:31 AM
#49
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Our apartment was over 100 stairs right above Il Teatro so we ate there often. Sometimes it would be so amusing to watch the family dynamics. Some days they would bring in an older uncle to help out and other times a reluctant daughter or two. Sometimes when we were still there at closing they would finally relax and laugh amongst themselves.
It is nice to stay in one place like this and get to know the ins and outs of the local's lives. We have some stories !! I love your report needless to say.
It is nice to stay in one place like this and get to know the ins and outs of the local's lives. We have some stories !! I love your report needless to say.
May 8th, 2008, 10:23 AM
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Eks-
You can't post your photos here, but you <i>could</i> join a photo hosting website like Kodak and then post a link to it here. You might even be able to post a link to your photos on iPhoto, but I don't know that site.
You can't post your photos here, but you <i>could</i> join a photo hosting website like Kodak and then post a link to it here. You might even be able to post a link to your photos on iPhoto, but I don't know that site.
May 8th, 2008, 11:18 AM
#52
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I am glad you are enjoying. I decided to buckle down and complete this relatively quickly instead of dawdling in my usual style.
SeaUrchin: I could not agree more..it is wonderful to remain in one place for awhile. I have to hear your stories someday soon!
Kristina: The iPhoto is the Mac application (is that the right word?) I would have to join a website and put the photos on that, I think, or I could buy some kind of Mac access, I think it is Mac Gallery or some name like that.. I am REALLY inept, though, but determined to learn so I will address this...
SO......
Thursday was May 1, a major holiday and the beginning of a four-day weekend for many Europeans. We had noticed many new arrivals the night before and there were new faces in the dining room at breakfast. Fearing the crowds on the buses, and wanting a day of total relaxation, we opted to remain in Amalfi on what was to be our last full day on the coast.
Agnese had mentioned the sweeping views from the cemetery perched above the town (on your right if you have your back to the sea), so we set out for that vantage point, through the winding, covered passageways, the scalinatelle, and up hundreds of steps. Again we were reminded of Moorish villages in southern Spain. We walked and walked, often meeting dead ends, and were reminded that townspeople used these passageways to hide when marauding Ottoman or Saracen pirates were spotted by watchmen in the coastal towers.
After about an hour we reached a ledge below the cemetery and the vistas of the town and the sea, over terraces dense with lemon trees (still mostly covered with protective black netting that would be removed as the weather warmed), was, indeed, superb. I highly recommend this walk, just be prepared for many steps and a few wrong turns as you ascend! Unfortunately, our entrance to the cemetery itself was thwarted by the custodian who informed us that it was closed due to the holiday. I guess the departed need a day to relax without having to entertain visitors!
Back then, along the winding stepped pathways to the Floridiana, where we changed into beach clothes after deciding to take advantage of the glorious weather.
I may have already mentioned this, but the restaurants along the Marina Grande have their own private bathing areas separate from the public section of the beach. We rented two chairs and an umbrella (10 Euro total; the price may rise in summer) from the friendly hosts at Ristorante Marina Grande and set ourselves down for a few hours in the sun. We had not seen many bathers before today, but on this clear and sunny holiday afternoon there were quite a few people in the calm Mediterranean. (It was too cold for us!) We noticed the many of our fellow loungers had brought food with them and others ordered from the restaurant menu and had their food brought to their chairs. No paper plates and plastic cups here! There are showers and changing rooms under the restaurant; cold showers are free; hot water showers require a nominal charge. No shampoo is allowed.
After a couple of hours, we headed back, changed into streetwear, and continued our explorations of Amalfi. The Duomo di Sant Andrea, with its bronze doors (said to be the oldest in Italy) commissioned in the 11th Century in Constantinople reminded us of the Amalfi Republic’s reign as one of the world’s strongest naval powers.
Of course, I spent an hour or so browsing the various shops in search of food products and gifts to bring home. Hopefully a cook friend will appreciate the bottle of colatura di alici! I never did succumb to the magnetism of those Il Duce aprons, though. The dominant theme in the shops here are lemons, lemons, lemons. The sfusati, the Amalfitan lemons with their pointed ends and distinctive fragrance that has earned them IGP protected status, make their appearance in their natural form at food shops and sold by vendors on the street, and in various products from lemon-imbued risotto rice (?) to perfumes to candles to ceramics and many other guises.
I priced the jarred Cetara tuna and various dried pastas and decided, perhaps wrongly, that the price savings did not warrant dragging them home with me. (Large jar of top-quality tuna: 9 Euro Medium jar of Fabbri cherries: 9 Euro to give just two examples) Of course I am now sorry but this does represent quite a departure for me since the days when I would routinely schlep home a dozen glass jars of ventresca tuna and several bottles of olive oil (just to name two of my usual staples) from every Spain and Italy trip. (Also, I was secretly hoping for lower prices in Naples.)
And then it was time to set out for our last dinner on he Amalfi Coast, at A Paranza, the cozy trattoria where we had so enjoyed our dinner four days before.
SeaUrchin: I could not agree more..it is wonderful to remain in one place for awhile. I have to hear your stories someday soon!
Kristina: The iPhoto is the Mac application (is that the right word?) I would have to join a website and put the photos on that, I think, or I could buy some kind of Mac access, I think it is Mac Gallery or some name like that.. I am REALLY inept, though, but determined to learn so I will address this...
SO......
Thursday was May 1, a major holiday and the beginning of a four-day weekend for many Europeans. We had noticed many new arrivals the night before and there were new faces in the dining room at breakfast. Fearing the crowds on the buses, and wanting a day of total relaxation, we opted to remain in Amalfi on what was to be our last full day on the coast.
Agnese had mentioned the sweeping views from the cemetery perched above the town (on your right if you have your back to the sea), so we set out for that vantage point, through the winding, covered passageways, the scalinatelle, and up hundreds of steps. Again we were reminded of Moorish villages in southern Spain. We walked and walked, often meeting dead ends, and were reminded that townspeople used these passageways to hide when marauding Ottoman or Saracen pirates were spotted by watchmen in the coastal towers.
After about an hour we reached a ledge below the cemetery and the vistas of the town and the sea, over terraces dense with lemon trees (still mostly covered with protective black netting that would be removed as the weather warmed), was, indeed, superb. I highly recommend this walk, just be prepared for many steps and a few wrong turns as you ascend! Unfortunately, our entrance to the cemetery itself was thwarted by the custodian who informed us that it was closed due to the holiday. I guess the departed need a day to relax without having to entertain visitors!
Back then, along the winding stepped pathways to the Floridiana, where we changed into beach clothes after deciding to take advantage of the glorious weather.
I may have already mentioned this, but the restaurants along the Marina Grande have their own private bathing areas separate from the public section of the beach. We rented two chairs and an umbrella (10 Euro total; the price may rise in summer) from the friendly hosts at Ristorante Marina Grande and set ourselves down for a few hours in the sun. We had not seen many bathers before today, but on this clear and sunny holiday afternoon there were quite a few people in the calm Mediterranean. (It was too cold for us!) We noticed the many of our fellow loungers had brought food with them and others ordered from the restaurant menu and had their food brought to their chairs. No paper plates and plastic cups here! There are showers and changing rooms under the restaurant; cold showers are free; hot water showers require a nominal charge. No shampoo is allowed.
After a couple of hours, we headed back, changed into streetwear, and continued our explorations of Amalfi. The Duomo di Sant Andrea, with its bronze doors (said to be the oldest in Italy) commissioned in the 11th Century in Constantinople reminded us of the Amalfi Republic’s reign as one of the world’s strongest naval powers.
Of course, I spent an hour or so browsing the various shops in search of food products and gifts to bring home. Hopefully a cook friend will appreciate the bottle of colatura di alici! I never did succumb to the magnetism of those Il Duce aprons, though. The dominant theme in the shops here are lemons, lemons, lemons. The sfusati, the Amalfitan lemons with their pointed ends and distinctive fragrance that has earned them IGP protected status, make their appearance in their natural form at food shops and sold by vendors on the street, and in various products from lemon-imbued risotto rice (?) to perfumes to candles to ceramics and many other guises.
I priced the jarred Cetara tuna and various dried pastas and decided, perhaps wrongly, that the price savings did not warrant dragging them home with me. (Large jar of top-quality tuna: 9 Euro Medium jar of Fabbri cherries: 9 Euro to give just two examples) Of course I am now sorry but this does represent quite a departure for me since the days when I would routinely schlep home a dozen glass jars of ventresca tuna and several bottles of olive oil (just to name two of my usual staples) from every Spain and Italy trip. (Also, I was secretly hoping for lower prices in Naples.)
And then it was time to set out for our last dinner on he Amalfi Coast, at A Paranza, the cozy trattoria where we had so enjoyed our dinner four days before.
May 8th, 2008, 11:42 AM
#53
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Another scrumptious trip report ek!
I am drooling at my desk
I haven't explored this part of Italy but reading your report has sure brought it to my attention...so many places so little time!
Looking forward to the rest!
I am drooling at my desk
I haven't explored this part of Italy but reading your report has sure brought it to my attention...so many places so little time!
Looking forward to the rest!
May 8th, 2008, 12:08 PM
#54
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Thanks! I highly recommend this area! Very highly!
Here is the website for the Ristorante San Pietro in Cetara, with some photos of the dining area and the specialties:
http://www.sanpietroristorante.it/
Here is the website for the Ristorante San Pietro in Cetara, with some photos of the dining area and the specialties:
http://www.sanpietroristorante.it/
May 8th, 2008, 12:39 PM
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Second dinner at A Paranza in Atrani:
A Paranza as our favorite restaurant of the week (with Al Convento in Cetara a close second) so we chose it for our farewell dinner on the coast.
I mentioned this above but I think it bears repeating: I notied that the Italian diners did not even glance at their printed menus but, rather, consulted extensively with the owner/waiter before ordering. The Rome-based food writer Maureen Fant put it well: “the better you talk, the better you eat!” I decided to follow this advice and mentioned that I wanted to eat shellfish and that my partner wanted no fish dishes. The owner surprised us by remembering the wine we had the first time and asked if that would be all right tonight. So we drank the Falango Falghina which is one of the house wines. (I am sorry that we did not sample the wines from Furore, which I later read were he best on the coast).
This was our dinner:
Complimentary bruschetta, a few slices topped with chopped tomato and the others left unadorned
Mixed clams in oil and garlic. This dish contained two types of clams, the vongole veraci and the tartufi di mare and was among my favorite dishes of the week.
Fiore di Zucca stuffed with ricotta and anchovy..a repeat of the first night and again, superb! (Very little anchovy flavor; my partner thought it was stuffed only with ricotta)
Paccheri, the short, wide tubes dressed with gamberoni served with their heads (the meat inside the head is scrumptious even if you have to suck it out!); tomatoes; and arugula. Wonderful, wonderful. I plan to make this tomorrow with long pasta and the cheese I brought home which will stand in for the shrimp.
Gnocchi (Thursday is gnocchi day in Rome and probably here, too) with tomato and mozzarella. This must have been delicious because there was not one tiny bite left for me to sample!
For dessert we shared a house dessert of light lemon cake draped with pale yellow lemon cream. I hate to say this, again, but it was fabulous!!
This was my favorite meal in a week of superlative eating. With the full bottle of wine, and water, cover and service, we paid 68 Euro, or $104US at today’s exchange rate.
On the way to the restaurant we paid a visit to the Luna Convento Hotel where we had considered staying. Although we chose the Floridiana because of the price difference of 80 Euro and a few less-than-great reviews of the Luna on TA, we thought that the Luna was absolutely beautiful. The staff were very welcoming and allowed us to wander through the public rooms including a courtyard with potted lemon trees. The views of both the open sea and the town of Amalfi from this former convent are stupendous. The hotel is about a 10 minute (slow) walk from the main square. There is a pool (not large) at sea level, access to which would entail crossing the road and walking down a flight of steps. The pool was not filled on May 1 but should be a wonderful amenity in season. Unfortunately I neglected to ask for a peek at a room. The price for a standard sea view room was quoted to us as 220 Euro with the deluxe rooms costing about 60 euro more than that. This is much less expensive than the prices at the more manicured Santa Caterina on the other side of town. But we had been very happy at the Floridiana and glad we had chosen it as our Amalfi base.
And, finally, we returned to the hotel and packed our things in preparation of the next morning's 9:30am departure by car to Pompeii and Naples.
A Paranza as our favorite restaurant of the week (with Al Convento in Cetara a close second) so we chose it for our farewell dinner on the coast.
I mentioned this above but I think it bears repeating: I notied that the Italian diners did not even glance at their printed menus but, rather, consulted extensively with the owner/waiter before ordering. The Rome-based food writer Maureen Fant put it well: “the better you talk, the better you eat!” I decided to follow this advice and mentioned that I wanted to eat shellfish and that my partner wanted no fish dishes. The owner surprised us by remembering the wine we had the first time and asked if that would be all right tonight. So we drank the Falango Falghina which is one of the house wines. (I am sorry that we did not sample the wines from Furore, which I later read were he best on the coast).
This was our dinner:
Complimentary bruschetta, a few slices topped with chopped tomato and the others left unadorned
Mixed clams in oil and garlic. This dish contained two types of clams, the vongole veraci and the tartufi di mare and was among my favorite dishes of the week.
Fiore di Zucca stuffed with ricotta and anchovy..a repeat of the first night and again, superb! (Very little anchovy flavor; my partner thought it was stuffed only with ricotta)
Paccheri, the short, wide tubes dressed with gamberoni served with their heads (the meat inside the head is scrumptious even if you have to suck it out!); tomatoes; and arugula. Wonderful, wonderful. I plan to make this tomorrow with long pasta and the cheese I brought home which will stand in for the shrimp.
Gnocchi (Thursday is gnocchi day in Rome and probably here, too) with tomato and mozzarella. This must have been delicious because there was not one tiny bite left for me to sample!
For dessert we shared a house dessert of light lemon cake draped with pale yellow lemon cream. I hate to say this, again, but it was fabulous!!
This was my favorite meal in a week of superlative eating. With the full bottle of wine, and water, cover and service, we paid 68 Euro, or $104US at today’s exchange rate.
On the way to the restaurant we paid a visit to the Luna Convento Hotel where we had considered staying. Although we chose the Floridiana because of the price difference of 80 Euro and a few less-than-great reviews of the Luna on TA, we thought that the Luna was absolutely beautiful. The staff were very welcoming and allowed us to wander through the public rooms including a courtyard with potted lemon trees. The views of both the open sea and the town of Amalfi from this former convent are stupendous. The hotel is about a 10 minute (slow) walk from the main square. There is a pool (not large) at sea level, access to which would entail crossing the road and walking down a flight of steps. The pool was not filled on May 1 but should be a wonderful amenity in season. Unfortunately I neglected to ask for a peek at a room. The price for a standard sea view room was quoted to us as 220 Euro with the deluxe rooms costing about 60 euro more than that. This is much less expensive than the prices at the more manicured Santa Caterina on the other side of town. But we had been very happy at the Floridiana and glad we had chosen it as our Amalfi base.
And, finally, we returned to the hotel and packed our things in preparation of the next morning's 9:30am departure by car to Pompeii and Naples.
May 8th, 2008, 01:07 PM
#56
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ellenem, the burrata sounds divine! You described it very well. I had seen it on Lidia's Italy and want to try it.
ek, this is great. Interesting about the fish and cheese together. I thought the Italians never did that.
ek, this is great. Interesting about the fish and cheese together. I thought the Italians never did that.
May 8th, 2008, 01:21 PM
#57
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The fish and cheese taboo is ingrained, or so I thought. (although I remember reading that the combination is used in Sardinia.) We once had a discussion about this subject on Fodor's with Franco.
But look at this article I just found in a search:
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/30/ma...mp;oref=slogin
But look at this article I just found in a search:
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/30/ma...mp;oref=slogin
May 8th, 2008, 02:37 PM
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eks-
You might also look at shutterfly.com as a place to upload your pictures so people can see them.
BTW, I had to laugh at your expectation of the road to Paestum being lined with buffalo mozzarella stands. I too had that same vision. I'm glad it was you and not me who had her illusions shattered first.
You might also look at shutterfly.com as a place to upload your pictures so people can see them.
BTW, I had to laugh at your expectation of the road to Paestum being lined with buffalo mozzarella stands. I too had that same vision. I'm glad it was you and not me who had her illusions shattered first.
