SCIALATIELLA TO SFOGLIATELLE; PACCHERI TO PROVOLA: 7 Delectable Days in Amalfi and Naples
May 12th, 2008, 10:16 AM
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CJA: Yes, I would stop in Cetara if your main interest is in eating great food and seeing a non-touristy fishing village. You will be able to see Ravello by bus once you are settled in Positano (you can see Cetara that way, too, of course, but it is further away). If you are taking the highway past Naples, you should get off at the Vietri exit (double check this) ; Cetara is very close to this. After lunch you can continue west along the Amalfi Drive itself.
You have a treat in store in Montepulciano. The hotel is nice but what made our stay truly unforgettable is the owner, Roberto. Please say hello to him, if you remember, from the couple from New York who visited Avignonesi in January. And tell him that he looks like the tennis player, Yannick Noah; he loves tennis, too!! A real character and exceedingly congenial and helpful. It sounds like a fantastic trip!!
Scarlett: Yes, you MUST go to Italy! After all, you cannot exist on steak alone, even if it is THAT great!!
Squeaky: Thanks. I was surprised to read that ABC used that hotel; I would have guessed that the guests were mostly Italian. Your account of the hotel really convinced us to put it on the list for the future.
..continued...
We began our brief, late afternoon visit to Spaccanapoli with a visit to the Church of Gesu Nuovo. The diamond point façade that hints of its past as part of the Sanseverino family’s 15th Century palace:
http://www.terragalleria.com/europe/....ital7420.html
encloses a Baroque masterwork known for its colored marble and frescoes. If you visit, make sure to see the chapel that contains the plaques dedicated to physician and Saint Giuseppe Moscati. These framed silver-colored ex votos give testimony to the healing powers of Moscati with hearts, legs, feet, and other body parts he is said to have healed.
Here is a site detailing some of the miracles this beloved saint is said to have accomplished:
http://www.moscati.com/English/En_Grazie5.html
And here are a few photos of the Gesu Nuovo:
http://www.gesuiti.it/moscati/Italiano/It_chiesaGN.html
From the Gesu Nuovo, we walked the short distance to the Capella Sanseverino. Our walk took us past the famous Scaturchio Pasticceria and it was only with tremendous fortitude that we were able to forego stopping for their world-famous sfogliatelle:
http://www.scaturchio.it/homepage.html
The Capella Sansevero is the funerary chapel of the Di Sangro family and is adorned with the works of several world-renowned sculptors commissioned by the eccentric price of the family in the 18th Century, the most famous of which is Sammartino’s “Christo Velato,” with a transparent veil draping the reclining figure of the dead Christ.
Perhaps even more astounding is the artistry of the the figure to the right of the altar, “Il Disinganno, “ or “Dillusionment” by Franceso Queirolo. My partner had trouble believing that the fishing net (see photo below) was actually carved of marble, a difficulty shared by many other visitors, according to the guide in the chapel. Don’t forget to look up at the spectacular carved and gilded ceiling, and to visit the somewhat creepy anatomical figures displaying the human cardiovascular system in the basement.
http://www.napoliontheroad.it/Immagini/disinganno.jpg
By now it was time to make our way back to the hotel, but first, we stopped at a friggitoria, one of the sidewalk stalls dotting the historic center and offering a variety of Sfizzi Fritti, the fried snacks for which Naples is so beloved by food-centric visitors…..more soon..
You have a treat in store in Montepulciano. The hotel is nice but what made our stay truly unforgettable is the owner, Roberto. Please say hello to him, if you remember, from the couple from New York who visited Avignonesi in January. And tell him that he looks like the tennis player, Yannick Noah; he loves tennis, too!! A real character and exceedingly congenial and helpful. It sounds like a fantastic trip!!
Scarlett: Yes, you MUST go to Italy! After all, you cannot exist on steak alone, even if it is THAT great!!
Squeaky: Thanks. I was surprised to read that ABC used that hotel; I would have guessed that the guests were mostly Italian. Your account of the hotel really convinced us to put it on the list for the future.
..continued...
We began our brief, late afternoon visit to Spaccanapoli with a visit to the Church of Gesu Nuovo. The diamond point façade that hints of its past as part of the Sanseverino family’s 15th Century palace:
http://www.terragalleria.com/europe/....ital7420.html
encloses a Baroque masterwork known for its colored marble and frescoes. If you visit, make sure to see the chapel that contains the plaques dedicated to physician and Saint Giuseppe Moscati. These framed silver-colored ex votos give testimony to the healing powers of Moscati with hearts, legs, feet, and other body parts he is said to have healed.
Here is a site detailing some of the miracles this beloved saint is said to have accomplished:
http://www.moscati.com/English/En_Grazie5.html
And here are a few photos of the Gesu Nuovo:
http://www.gesuiti.it/moscati/Italiano/It_chiesaGN.html
From the Gesu Nuovo, we walked the short distance to the Capella Sanseverino. Our walk took us past the famous Scaturchio Pasticceria and it was only with tremendous fortitude that we were able to forego stopping for their world-famous sfogliatelle:
http://www.scaturchio.it/homepage.html
The Capella Sansevero is the funerary chapel of the Di Sangro family and is adorned with the works of several world-renowned sculptors commissioned by the eccentric price of the family in the 18th Century, the most famous of which is Sammartino’s “Christo Velato,” with a transparent veil draping the reclining figure of the dead Christ.
Perhaps even more astounding is the artistry of the the figure to the right of the altar, “Il Disinganno, “ or “Dillusionment” by Franceso Queirolo. My partner had trouble believing that the fishing net (see photo below) was actually carved of marble, a difficulty shared by many other visitors, according to the guide in the chapel. Don’t forget to look up at the spectacular carved and gilded ceiling, and to visit the somewhat creepy anatomical figures displaying the human cardiovascular system in the basement.
http://www.napoliontheroad.it/Immagini/disinganno.jpg
By now it was time to make our way back to the hotel, but first, we stopped at a friggitoria, one of the sidewalk stalls dotting the historic center and offering a variety of Sfizzi Fritti, the fried snacks for which Naples is so beloved by food-centric visitors…..more soon..
May 12th, 2008, 11:01 AM
#82
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Naples famous fried snacks take many forms, including fried fish, fried dough (zeppole and panzarotti, to name two versions), fried vegetables, fried potatoes, and myriad others. We had time only to taste a few of these. I cannot think of a better, and less expensive, gastronomic treat than the gloriously salty but not greasy 20-cent arancini piccoli that we sampled that afternoon. Arancini are fried rice balls usually stuffed with either meat, meat and peas, or cheese. These were stuffed with cheese and were sublime, as was my fiore di zucca, fried zucchini flower. Essential on any visit to Naples! And if you are on a budget, I cannot think of a better city in which to eat than Naples, with its premier pizza and world of street snacks.
Before we left the US I had reserved a table for dinner via e-mail at the Restaurant Umberto, a few steps from the hotel on Via Alabardieri. Umberto is a well-known local place with a cool modern interior and 1950s photos on the tomato red walls. That Friday night it was packed with locals and a few tourists; there was a birthday party for a small boy in the side room, who were dining on appetizers and Umberto’s pizzas, which receive high marks in local food critics. This is an example of their Menu della Settimana, which changes weekly, with prices:
http://www.umberto.it/?center=menu&ID=4
And, to give an idea, here is their pizza menu, with prices:
http://www.umberto.it/?center=menu&ID=3
We began our dinner with a platter of tiny meatballs in a tomato sauce..superb..and a platter of fried zucchin flowers (I could not get enough of these and they, too, were superb!)
For my main course I had burrida di seppie, squid with artichokes, Seppie con Carciofi, lightly stewed. Very good.
My partner had his first pizza in Naples, a margherita. The reports of its greatness are not exaggerated!
And finally, my quest for Asprinio de Aversa wine was fulfilled with a frizzante version of this wine from I Borboni: Umberto’s list also offers the wine in a spumante version. I loved it! (Notice the characteristic string which ties the cork)
http://www.iborboni.com/it/index_it.html
The bill totaled 43 euro, quite a good value.
Before we left the US I had reserved a table for dinner via e-mail at the Restaurant Umberto, a few steps from the hotel on Via Alabardieri. Umberto is a well-known local place with a cool modern interior and 1950s photos on the tomato red walls. That Friday night it was packed with locals and a few tourists; there was a birthday party for a small boy in the side room, who were dining on appetizers and Umberto’s pizzas, which receive high marks in local food critics. This is an example of their Menu della Settimana, which changes weekly, with prices:
http://www.umberto.it/?center=menu&ID=4
And, to give an idea, here is their pizza menu, with prices:
http://www.umberto.it/?center=menu&ID=3
We began our dinner with a platter of tiny meatballs in a tomato sauce..superb..and a platter of fried zucchin flowers (I could not get enough of these and they, too, were superb!)
For my main course I had burrida di seppie, squid with artichokes, Seppie con Carciofi, lightly stewed. Very good.
My partner had his first pizza in Naples, a margherita. The reports of its greatness are not exaggerated!
And finally, my quest for Asprinio de Aversa wine was fulfilled with a frizzante version of this wine from I Borboni: Umberto’s list also offers the wine in a spumante version. I loved it! (Notice the characteristic string which ties the cork)
http://www.iborboni.com/it/index_it.html
The bill totaled 43 euro, quite a good value.
May 12th, 2008, 11:16 AM
#83
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Oh, I could have tears now !
Umberto, oh my God at Vico Alabardieri, very close to Piazza dei Martiri, the most elegant square of Naples.
How many and many pizza I ate at Umberto when I was very young and studied at Naples University.
I will never forget and I want to thank you that were able to refresh in a very sweet way my memory.
Vincenzo
Umberto, oh my God at Vico Alabardieri, very close to Piazza dei Martiri, the most elegant square of Naples.
How many and many pizza I ate at Umberto when I was very young and studied at Naples University.
I will never forget and I want to thank you that were able to refresh in a very sweet way my memory.
Vincenzo
May 13th, 2008, 03:16 AM
#84
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Vicenzo, I am glad if I was able to bring you a sweet memory, if only for a moment!
I had to finish quickly yesterday and just wanted to say that Umberto was an excellent restaurant. After dinner we walked west along Via Alabardieri; there is a lot of nightlife in that area--many small bars and restaurants that were overflowing with young people, so much so that it was difficult to walk along the smaller streets because they were so crowded with people! It is a lovely neighborhood and not for one minute did I feel nervous about walking around, even at night. Naples surely does not deserve its dicey reputation, based on my own, albeit brief, experiences!
I will return later with our last day in Naples, which includes a sampling of one of the city's most legendary pizzas.
I had to finish quickly yesterday and just wanted to say that Umberto was an excellent restaurant. After dinner we walked west along Via Alabardieri; there is a lot of nightlife in that area--many small bars and restaurants that were overflowing with young people, so much so that it was difficult to walk along the smaller streets because they were so crowded with people! It is a lovely neighborhood and not for one minute did I feel nervous about walking around, even at night. Naples surely does not deserve its dicey reputation, based on my own, albeit brief, experiences!
I will return later with our last day in Naples, which includes a sampling of one of the city's most legendary pizzas.
May 13th, 2008, 03:37 AM
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I just looked at my photos from the Caseficio near Paestum and wanted to add here that they offer 26 types of cheeses, ranging from 8.50 to 13.50 Euro per kilo, along with a scamorza with soppressata (salami) for 18 Euro per kilo.
Burrata is, indeed, on the list, and they offer three types of butter as well!
Burrata is, indeed, on the list, and they offer three types of butter as well!
May 13th, 2008, 04:44 AM
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More fantastic stuff, eks - now I have to go back to Naples too to try the food places you visited ! I thought seppie was cuttlefish, though ?
Sigh, only 32 days until our hol, though !
Glad to hear you weren't aware of stray dogs at Pompeii.
Sigh, only 32 days until our hol, though !
Glad to hear you weren't aware of stray dogs at Pompeii.
May 13th, 2008, 08:46 AM
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Caroline you are correct..I usually confuse squid and cuttlefish, both in Italy and in Spain, where they are both also popular. I can't discern too much difference in taste between the two.. Thanks for the correction.
I just loaded my photos onto my computer and when I look at them, the entire week feels like a dream. This certainly will not be our last time in the region!
I will finish up very soon...
I just loaded my photos onto my computer and when I look at them, the entire week feels like a dream. This certainly will not be our last time in the region!
I will finish up very soon...
May 13th, 2008, 11:06 AM
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I forgot to add these notes earlier in the report:
I will make a note here about two new hotel properties in the area: Work continues on the Cappuchini Convento in Amalfi and locals told us that they will be open by next summer. And, in Conca de Marini, the Convento di Santa Rosa, which dates from the 15th Century and must offer some of the most astounding views on a coast filled with astounding views, has apparently (this from Sr. Cuomo) been purchased by an heiress from North Carolina and is slated to be transformed into a hotel.
I will make a note here about two new hotel properties in the area: Work continues on the Cappuchini Convento in Amalfi and locals told us that they will be open by next summer. And, in Conca de Marini, the Convento di Santa Rosa, which dates from the 15th Century and must offer some of the most astounding views on a coast filled with astounding views, has apparently (this from Sr. Cuomo) been purchased by an heiress from North Carolina and is slated to be transformed into a hotel.
May 14th, 2008, 01:13 PM
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We were up early the next morning, Saturday, ready to begin our last full day in Naples. A buffet breakfast is included in the room price of the Palazzo Alabardieri and consists of excellent pastries—croissants, pan au chocolat, and even sfogliatelle—along with heavier items including bacon and eggs. I should mention that the hotel provides guests with a free reprint of the Naples section from the DK Eyewitness guidebook.
After breakfast, armed with the Streetwise Map of Naples, we headed for the grid of shadowy streets called the Tavoliere, or chessboard, to the west of Via Toledo in the Quartiere Spagnoli, or Spanish Quarter. Lined with tall, narrow tenement-type buildings often strung with laundry and scribbled with graffiti, this is the quintessential Naples of legend and postwar film. Our goal was Via Pignasecca and its cross streets, which throb with activity as one of the city’s oldest markets unfolds each morning beginning about 8am. Food of every description, housewares, cheap clothing, and all manner of bric a brac spill from the open-air stands and the shops lining the narrow streets filled with the clamor of vendors proclaiming the plumpest artichokes or the freshest squid.
From here we found our way back to the Via Toledo and walked north towards Piazza Bellini, the only place in the central city where we saw the overflowing trash bins familiar from so many news accounts.
A walk along the Via Sta Maria di Constantinopoli, lined with book and map sellers, too us to the Hotel Constantinopoli 104, where we had considered staying and which receives excellent reviews. Ensconced behind an unprepossessing façade, the low-rise villa houses lovely, tastefully decorated interior spaces as well as a small pool which looked inviting. The staff here, again, were gracious in allowing us to wander through the public areas. At 220 Euro double, this hotel was 25 Euros more expensive than the Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri and preferred our Chiaia neighborhood. Nevertheless, this hotel enjoys a location that certainly be ideal for a tourist who wanted to concentrate on the sights within Spaccanapoli and the archeological museum.
After breakfast, armed with the Streetwise Map of Naples, we headed for the grid of shadowy streets called the Tavoliere, or chessboard, to the west of Via Toledo in the Quartiere Spagnoli, or Spanish Quarter. Lined with tall, narrow tenement-type buildings often strung with laundry and scribbled with graffiti, this is the quintessential Naples of legend and postwar film. Our goal was Via Pignasecca and its cross streets, which throb with activity as one of the city’s oldest markets unfolds each morning beginning about 8am. Food of every description, housewares, cheap clothing, and all manner of bric a brac spill from the open-air stands and the shops lining the narrow streets filled with the clamor of vendors proclaiming the plumpest artichokes or the freshest squid.
From here we found our way back to the Via Toledo and walked north towards Piazza Bellini, the only place in the central city where we saw the overflowing trash bins familiar from so many news accounts.
A walk along the Via Sta Maria di Constantinopoli, lined with book and map sellers, too us to the Hotel Constantinopoli 104, where we had considered staying and which receives excellent reviews. Ensconced behind an unprepossessing façade, the low-rise villa houses lovely, tastefully decorated interior spaces as well as a small pool which looked inviting. The staff here, again, were gracious in allowing us to wander through the public areas. At 220 Euro double, this hotel was 25 Euros more expensive than the Hotel Palazzo Alabardieri and preferred our Chiaia neighborhood. Nevertheless, this hotel enjoys a location that certainly be ideal for a tourist who wanted to concentrate on the sights within Spaccanapoli and the archeological museum.
May 15th, 2008, 09:04 AM
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Nice trip report, eks. Sounds like you enjoyed the Chiaia neighborhood and especially Ristorante Umberto as much as we did. Naples is an amazing city -- so incredibly vibrant, don't you think? One of my favorites places in Italy so far.
May 15th, 2008, 09:44 AM
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Hazel: Yes, vibrant is the world for Naples! IN the days after we got home, I noticed that midtown Manhattan seemed very quiet and almost deserted in comparison with the crowds and energy we had experienced walking around Naples! Two days really was far too short a time but at least it gave us a taste of the city.
Here is a bit more of the report:
After a walk that took us through the Piazza Dante, we headed back to the Via dei Tribunali and made our way to the 16th-Century church of San Gregorio Armeno, a gilded jewelbox that has been described as “a room of paradise on earth” for the nuns who occupy its adjoining convent. The carved wooden ceiling is nothing short of astonishing!
Outside, the narrow Via San Gregorio Armeno is headquarters for the craftsmen who fashion the intricate figures and accessories that will find homes within the elaborate Christmas nativity scenes, or presepi, that spring up throughout the city during the holiday season. The figures for sale here represent everyone from Luciano Pavarotti to the baby Jesus and assorted angels and saints, with soccer stars and political figures in plentiful supply.
Our next stop was the Monte de Pieta, open only on the weekends (during the week the lavish Baroque interiors house the offices of the San Paolo Banco di Napoli).
Here is a bit more of the report:
After a walk that took us through the Piazza Dante, we headed back to the Via dei Tribunali and made our way to the 16th-Century church of San Gregorio Armeno, a gilded jewelbox that has been described as “a room of paradise on earth” for the nuns who occupy its adjoining convent. The carved wooden ceiling is nothing short of astonishing!
Outside, the narrow Via San Gregorio Armeno is headquarters for the craftsmen who fashion the intricate figures and accessories that will find homes within the elaborate Christmas nativity scenes, or presepi, that spring up throughout the city during the holiday season. The figures for sale here represent everyone from Luciano Pavarotti to the baby Jesus and assorted angels and saints, with soccer stars and political figures in plentiful supply.
Our next stop was the Monte de Pieta, open only on the weekends (during the week the lavish Baroque interiors house the offices of the San Paolo Banco di Napoli).
May 15th, 2008, 03:04 PM
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Our next stop was the Monte de Pieta, open only on the weekends (during the week the lavish Baroque interiors house the offices of the San Paolo Banco di Napoli). Admission is free. After a walk through the courtyard and ornate galleries filled with decorative arts and ecclesiastical cothing and accessories, we were dove once again into the narrow streets of Spaccanapoli and once again, made our way to the Via dei Tribunali, the former Decumanus Maximus, the major east-west street of the Roman city.
The Via dei Tribunali is home to two of Naples’ legendary addresses: DiMatteo, at #94 and Sorbillo, at #32. These two names show up on every list of Naples best pizzerie. If we had had more time in the city, I am sure we would have visited both but on this day, we had to make a choice and so we headed for Sorbillo. (Their site has photos and a menu):
http://www.pizzeriasorbillo.it/
Happily, there were a few tables free when we arrived shortly after noon. (By 1:15pm on this Saturday, there was a large cluster of people waiting in the street outside) Is the pizza in Naples as good as everyone says? Yes, yes, and yes! My partner, the purist, had the simple Margarita (3.30 Euro) and I had the artichoke-bedecked Elena (4.80 Euro). We drank Cokes with our pizza. Is there a better 12 Euro meal available anywhere in Europe? I seriously doubt it!
After that superlative lunch, we began walking again, this time south along Via Toledo and Via Chiaia, through the Piazza dei Martiri to the water and the Castel dell’ Ovo. The views of Vesuvius from inside, framed by the castle’s thick stone walls, are classic! Wandering along the waterfront promenades, we came across a number of bridal couples posing for photos.
And finally, it was time to return to our hotel to relax a bit before dinnertime. We had planned to dine that last night at Europeo Mattozzi, but eventually decided against this SlowFood restaurant because of its location a long walk from the hotel. (The front desk person told us that the restaurant’s owners had opened a sister establishment close to the hotel, but we had had no reports of this place and I was a bit hesitant.) But that morning on our walk through the Spanish Quarter we had come across Hosteria Toledo, another SlowFood pick and we liked the look of it so much that we had booked a table for 8:30 that evening).
The Via dei Tribunali is home to two of Naples’ legendary addresses: DiMatteo, at #94 and Sorbillo, at #32. These two names show up on every list of Naples best pizzerie. If we had had more time in the city, I am sure we would have visited both but on this day, we had to make a choice and so we headed for Sorbillo. (Their site has photos and a menu):
http://www.pizzeriasorbillo.it/
Happily, there were a few tables free when we arrived shortly after noon. (By 1:15pm on this Saturday, there was a large cluster of people waiting in the street outside) Is the pizza in Naples as good as everyone says? Yes, yes, and yes! My partner, the purist, had the simple Margarita (3.30 Euro) and I had the artichoke-bedecked Elena (4.80 Euro). We drank Cokes with our pizza. Is there a better 12 Euro meal available anywhere in Europe? I seriously doubt it!
After that superlative lunch, we began walking again, this time south along Via Toledo and Via Chiaia, through the Piazza dei Martiri to the water and the Castel dell’ Ovo. The views of Vesuvius from inside, framed by the castle’s thick stone walls, are classic! Wandering along the waterfront promenades, we came across a number of bridal couples posing for photos.
And finally, it was time to return to our hotel to relax a bit before dinnertime. We had planned to dine that last night at Europeo Mattozzi, but eventually decided against this SlowFood restaurant because of its location a long walk from the hotel. (The front desk person told us that the restaurant’s owners had opened a sister establishment close to the hotel, but we had had no reports of this place and I was a bit hesitant.) But that morning on our walk through the Spanish Quarter we had come across Hosteria Toledo, another SlowFood pick and we liked the look of it so much that we had booked a table for 8:30 that evening).
May 15th, 2008, 03:25 PM
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You mentioned the Piazza Dante. One of the best highlights in a Naples visit, I believe, is unknown to everyone but me. There is a McDonald's on Via Toledo, across from Piazza Dante. I know, McDonald's ugh! However, you go into McD and order anything whatsoever. You the go upstairs to the second floor and you will see the wall that faces the Piazza is all glass. You then sit at a table adjoining the large window-wall, and enjoy the fantastic bird's eye view of the liveliness of the Piazza from an incomparable angle. I have maintained my sitting position for hours, watching the story of Naples unfold beneath me. The university is located in the Piazza, so you can also see the young people of Napoli in their element. It's like watching a documentary, but in real time. It's amazing. I don't know if anyone but I have appreciated this adventure.
May 16th, 2008, 04:13 AM
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Bentornata Eks (- belated, I know) 
I've been waiting till I had time to savour your report (- just back from holiday too). Great reading! You've bought back so many memories ...
I shall look at Amalfi in a whole new perspective next time (- I've always considered it second-best compared to Positano, I admit).
I've been drooling over some of your meals, too.
Sfogliatelle? I used to breakfast on them every time I was in Naples - fresh out of the oven. Irresistable!
Better start planning my next visit
Steve
I've been waiting till I had time to savour your report (- just back from holiday too). Great reading! You've bought back so many memories ...
I shall look at Amalfi in a whole new perspective next time (- I've always considered it second-best compared to Positano, I admit).
I've been drooling over some of your meals, too.
Sfogliatelle? I used to breakfast on them every time I was in Naples - fresh out of the oven. Irresistable!
Better start planning my next visit
Steve
May 16th, 2008, 08:04 AM
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I am glad you are all enjoying!
I missed the McDonald's but I did notice a Mexico coffee shop; I remembered reading that they had some of the city's best coffee. But we did not sample on this trip.
SteveJames: Welcome back!
I missed the McDonald's but I did notice a Mexico coffee shop; I remembered reading that they had some of the city's best coffee. But we did not sample on this trip.
SteveJames: Welcome back!
