Schnauzer's 50th birthday solo trip to Provence- trip report
Oct 6th, 2007, 12:53 PM
#22
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Hello Schnauzer,
I am enjoying your trip report. My attention was drawn to it especially by what you think of as its "flaw". Or, as you say "flat" and not full of "funny and witty musings". This quality is refreshing and adds a significent depth to your lovely journal.
Should you visit Paris alone, I recommend this rather obscure (?) book, True Pleasures by Lucinda Holdforth---fabulous for a woman alone in Paris who loves Paris and history. I have travelled alone all my life.
Since I am new to Fodor's, I am still trying to find the Education Forum where you talk about your course in detail...no luck yet.
Your gift to yourself has become a gift to us. CopperandJade.
Oct 6th, 2007, 01:03 PM
#23
auberge du Presbytere is one of my favorite places. Across is one of the oldest Lavoirs that I like taking photos of. The hotel gets its goat chees from Gianni in Silvergues, goat frm where we stayed on year. In Saignon we stayed at Une Chambre avec View.
Oct 6th, 2007, 01:49 PM
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CopperandJade, there is an "Educational Travel" forum. Take a look on the drop-down menu above the thread titles on the left.
Here's a link to schnauzer's report there:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35074793
AA
Here's a link to schnauzer's report there:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35074793
AA
Oct 7th, 2007, 04:53 AM
#25
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Part two-day two in the Luberon:
We drove from Saignon through Boux, blink and you have missed it. In the direction to Bonnieux the scenery is magnificent on the left hand side. Even though I have never been there it made me think of Mt. Rushmore with the faces. There were no faces but similar rock formations, a big stretch of the imagination but hey that's me. Truly fantastic cliffs. We parked in Bonnieux and walked to the top of the hill to the old church. Magestic old Cedar trees framed a lovely view. We just wandered around trying to find an ice cream place with the genuine gelato not the commercial stuff but no luck. Bonnieux appeared to be a decent size with several restaurants and shops, more going on than many of the smaller villages. However, I thought it was a little colourless after Saturnin and Saignon with their brightly painted shutters. I can see why people would want to stay here because of the facilities but I do like "pretty".
We then arrived in Lacoste. My guide book had commented that Bonnieux was better from a distance, I wasn't quite sure what that meant - keep well away - perhaps? The sun was starting to sink and the view of Bonnieux in the fading light was just beautiful, it was bathed in a warm golden glow. Now I understood what was meant! We wanted to have a photo taken with the two of us and a lovely couple were also loitering around the view point, I spoke in my best french to ask if they would oblige, "We're english they said and of course we will take your photo if you take ours!". We got chatting and they told us they were staying in Goult which they suggested we went and saw. This was to be our last stop and off we went. What a fabulous find, a most gorgeous village, pretty, colourful, shops, restaurants and couple of great village squares, the perfect spot. Not much accommodation though. There was a windmill at the top of the village on the hill and as time was pressing I decided to try and drive as close to it as possible. The road became more and more narrow and just when I was starting to think I was going to get stuck Denise jumped out of the car to see what lay around the corner, well blow me, a huge car park!! Yay. We parked and then walked all around the village. Again houses built into the stone, very interesting. There was a cooking school which looked like it was worth a bit of further research. Next holiday perhaps? I really liked Goult and would recommend a visit. Apparently the few days prior to our visit there had been a festival and it was hopping.
We rescued the car and as we were driving down the road we came across the couple from Lacoste who asked us to visit their B & B but time was getting very late and we had booked again at our B & B for dinner. Regretfully we said goodbye and zoomed down the main road back to Le Thor.
Dinner was again lovely, baby duck (sorry baby duck)and a clafoutis along with cheese and a starter I have forgotten. However the storms hit and we had to rush inside half way through dinner. The thunderstorm had spectacular lightening and Denise was impressed as in Glencoe they may have the norhern lights but they don't have lightening like this.
Day three:
Packed up and left the Mas.
Up and off to Avignon. We parked on the outskirts easily enough but probably a bit far away from the action. Les Italies car park near the uni. It was a 15 mins walk into the centre. We of course went straight to the Pont to have a look, quite interesting to think it stretched so far. We looked at the outside of the Pope's Palace and found the garden behind and looked at the view. To be honest I didn't really warm to Avignon, Denise didn't want to look at the shops and there didn't appear to be much else to look at. I am sure there is, but not in my guide book! and as we were wanting to get to the Pont du Gard and south we needed to move along and not wander around too much. We had a quick lunch near the city walls and back to the car. We drove around the city walls to head in the direction of the Pont du Gard. I thought Avignon looked better from the outside, if you do not have much time I would suggest just driving slowly around the whole city, it looked more interesting from the other side of the walls! Sorry Avignon lovers.
We found the Pont du Gard and were blown away by the beauty of the whole place. We walked across and actually the views were better from the right side. I don't know how far away the parking would be on that side but I would suggest unless you need to see the museum to park on this side. We did a couple of the walking tracks and took some great shots. In the middle of summer it would be fabulous to go swimming in the river. Take your cossies.
Denise had read about a lovely drive from Uzes to Nimes. The road ducks off just before Uzes. It certainly was very pretty driving through the magnificent avenues of trees with the vineyards on either side. The stuff of postcards, suddenly you are now in rocky formations a complete change. We hit Nimes and only saw one sign post to Montelimar, not the direction we needed. After an hour of driving around Nimes in rush hour traffic looking for a sign, any sign, please to Arles we finally found our road. Please why don't they signpost in cities properly. In the countryside fantastic signage, when you need it in towns, non existent, expect of course to the places you dont' need. arrrrrg...
We needed to head south as were staying in Chateauneuf Les Martigues, nearish to the airport. My guidebook had suggested this drive to the south, not quite the Camargue but on the outskirts, it was a dull as dishwater, nothing to see, NOTHING, finally the wind farms came into view and then the oil refineries, oh joy. What a waste of time, well we certainly saw the various sides to Provence. A long journey and now the Mistral had decided to hit. Wow, I have read about the Mistral but didn't imagine it was really like they say it is, very, very, strong winds, the little pine trees on the side of the roads were at 45 degree angles and the sudden cold, wow.
I was exhausted from such a long drive and we eventually found our B & B called Villa Souleiado - www.villasouleiado.com the room was lovely, really part of a self contained flat, separate bathroom and separate toilet also a fully equiped kitchen. It was already gone 7.00 and I was in need of food and drink. The mistral is now absolutely howling outside but we brave the elements and go to Carry Le Rouet about 6kms away for dinner. We dined at Le Terrasse and had a great 21E set menu. Duck terrine to start followed by salmon in a nut cream sauce with veges and then creme caramel for dessert. yum.
This was our final evening together so it was nice to have a meal out. Very cold and dark, back to the B & B for a very early start. Well for us anyway.
I had a dreadful nights sleep worrying about the lack of road signs to the airport. Denise had to be there by 8.15am. We had chosen this accommodation as we didn't want to spend the last evening together at an airport hotel eating airport food. Initially we had some signs directing us to the airport and then they disappeared at the critical moment. finally we could see the airport to our left but no joke there was not one sign actually leading off the main road to the airport itself. The airport started to fade into the distance and the freeway to Lyon and Marseilles was looming in our faces, what to do. Help, my nightmares had come true!! We ducked off some little side road to an industrial area and found a petrol station, it was now past the time we should have been at the airport. I try and get directions but my french is failing in my panic and now of course no-one speaks english. Everywhere else, every other day everyone speaks english, here and now of course not!!! A lady in her car comes to pay for her petrol, no of course she doesn't speak english either just tells me to follow the signs to the airport, great what *(*U*&^^& signs! She sees my look of abject horror and says suivez moi. No need to ask twice, she very, very, very kindly leads us all the way to the airport. Oh boy, what a nightmare, they obviously think that people living in the suburbs close by to the airport know how to get there. Shame about the poor tourist twit. I drop Denise off and return the car to Hertz.
Nearly finished but it is again very late here so will finish the last day tomorrow. schnauzer
We drove from Saignon through Boux, blink and you have missed it. In the direction to Bonnieux the scenery is magnificent on the left hand side. Even though I have never been there it made me think of Mt. Rushmore with the faces. There were no faces but similar rock formations, a big stretch of the imagination but hey that's me. Truly fantastic cliffs. We parked in Bonnieux and walked to the top of the hill to the old church. Magestic old Cedar trees framed a lovely view. We just wandered around trying to find an ice cream place with the genuine gelato not the commercial stuff but no luck. Bonnieux appeared to be a decent size with several restaurants and shops, more going on than many of the smaller villages. However, I thought it was a little colourless after Saturnin and Saignon with their brightly painted shutters. I can see why people would want to stay here because of the facilities but I do like "pretty".
We then arrived in Lacoste. My guide book had commented that Bonnieux was better from a distance, I wasn't quite sure what that meant - keep well away - perhaps? The sun was starting to sink and the view of Bonnieux in the fading light was just beautiful, it was bathed in a warm golden glow. Now I understood what was meant! We wanted to have a photo taken with the two of us and a lovely couple were also loitering around the view point, I spoke in my best french to ask if they would oblige, "We're english they said and of course we will take your photo if you take ours!". We got chatting and they told us they were staying in Goult which they suggested we went and saw. This was to be our last stop and off we went. What a fabulous find, a most gorgeous village, pretty, colourful, shops, restaurants and couple of great village squares, the perfect spot. Not much accommodation though. There was a windmill at the top of the village on the hill and as time was pressing I decided to try and drive as close to it as possible. The road became more and more narrow and just when I was starting to think I was going to get stuck Denise jumped out of the car to see what lay around the corner, well blow me, a huge car park!! Yay. We parked and then walked all around the village. Again houses built into the stone, very interesting. There was a cooking school which looked like it was worth a bit of further research. Next holiday perhaps? I really liked Goult and would recommend a visit. Apparently the few days prior to our visit there had been a festival and it was hopping.
We rescued the car and as we were driving down the road we came across the couple from Lacoste who asked us to visit their B & B but time was getting very late and we had booked again at our B & B for dinner. Regretfully we said goodbye and zoomed down the main road back to Le Thor.
Dinner was again lovely, baby duck (sorry baby duck)and a clafoutis along with cheese and a starter I have forgotten. However the storms hit and we had to rush inside half way through dinner. The thunderstorm had spectacular lightening and Denise was impressed as in Glencoe they may have the norhern lights but they don't have lightening like this.
Day three:
Packed up and left the Mas.
Up and off to Avignon. We parked on the outskirts easily enough but probably a bit far away from the action. Les Italies car park near the uni. It was a 15 mins walk into the centre. We of course went straight to the Pont to have a look, quite interesting to think it stretched so far. We looked at the outside of the Pope's Palace and found the garden behind and looked at the view. To be honest I didn't really warm to Avignon, Denise didn't want to look at the shops and there didn't appear to be much else to look at. I am sure there is, but not in my guide book! and as we were wanting to get to the Pont du Gard and south we needed to move along and not wander around too much. We had a quick lunch near the city walls and back to the car. We drove around the city walls to head in the direction of the Pont du Gard. I thought Avignon looked better from the outside, if you do not have much time I would suggest just driving slowly around the whole city, it looked more interesting from the other side of the walls! Sorry Avignon lovers.
We found the Pont du Gard and were blown away by the beauty of the whole place. We walked across and actually the views were better from the right side. I don't know how far away the parking would be on that side but I would suggest unless you need to see the museum to park on this side. We did a couple of the walking tracks and took some great shots. In the middle of summer it would be fabulous to go swimming in the river. Take your cossies.
Denise had read about a lovely drive from Uzes to Nimes. The road ducks off just before Uzes. It certainly was very pretty driving through the magnificent avenues of trees with the vineyards on either side. The stuff of postcards, suddenly you are now in rocky formations a complete change. We hit Nimes and only saw one sign post to Montelimar, not the direction we needed. After an hour of driving around Nimes in rush hour traffic looking for a sign, any sign, please to Arles we finally found our road. Please why don't they signpost in cities properly. In the countryside fantastic signage, when you need it in towns, non existent, expect of course to the places you dont' need. arrrrrg...
We needed to head south as were staying in Chateauneuf Les Martigues, nearish to the airport. My guidebook had suggested this drive to the south, not quite the Camargue but on the outskirts, it was a dull as dishwater, nothing to see, NOTHING, finally the wind farms came into view and then the oil refineries, oh joy. What a waste of time, well we certainly saw the various sides to Provence. A long journey and now the Mistral had decided to hit. Wow, I have read about the Mistral but didn't imagine it was really like they say it is, very, very, strong winds, the little pine trees on the side of the roads were at 45 degree angles and the sudden cold, wow.
I was exhausted from such a long drive and we eventually found our B & B called Villa Souleiado - www.villasouleiado.com the room was lovely, really part of a self contained flat, separate bathroom and separate toilet also a fully equiped kitchen. It was already gone 7.00 and I was in need of food and drink. The mistral is now absolutely howling outside but we brave the elements and go to Carry Le Rouet about 6kms away for dinner. We dined at Le Terrasse and had a great 21E set menu. Duck terrine to start followed by salmon in a nut cream sauce with veges and then creme caramel for dessert. yum.
This was our final evening together so it was nice to have a meal out. Very cold and dark, back to the B & B for a very early start. Well for us anyway.
I had a dreadful nights sleep worrying about the lack of road signs to the airport. Denise had to be there by 8.15am. We had chosen this accommodation as we didn't want to spend the last evening together at an airport hotel eating airport food. Initially we had some signs directing us to the airport and then they disappeared at the critical moment. finally we could see the airport to our left but no joke there was not one sign actually leading off the main road to the airport itself. The airport started to fade into the distance and the freeway to Lyon and Marseilles was looming in our faces, what to do. Help, my nightmares had come true!! We ducked off some little side road to an industrial area and found a petrol station, it was now past the time we should have been at the airport. I try and get directions but my french is failing in my panic and now of course no-one speaks english. Everywhere else, every other day everyone speaks english, here and now of course not!!! A lady in her car comes to pay for her petrol, no of course she doesn't speak english either just tells me to follow the signs to the airport, great what *(*U*&^^& signs! She sees my look of abject horror and says suivez moi. No need to ask twice, she very, very, very kindly leads us all the way to the airport. Oh boy, what a nightmare, they obviously think that people living in the suburbs close by to the airport know how to get there. Shame about the poor tourist twit. I drop Denise off and return the car to Hertz.
Nearly finished but it is again very late here so will finish the last day tomorrow. schnauzer
Oct 8th, 2007, 04:13 AM
#26
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Continuing on from yesterday:
Dropped Denise off at the airport and returned the car to Hertz. Caught the shuttle to the Best Western at the airport itself. I had read many reviews on this hotel and my hopes were not high. However, I was pleasantly surprised and it appeared much better than the reviews. The front desk very kindly rang around and found me a cleaned room. It was only 9.00am in the morning and it was great to drop my bags make a cup of tea and change as the weather was warming up.
Orginally I had thought about going to Marseilles for the day but on the journey to the airport after Crea Langue the teacher had instilled quite a fear into me. Go, she had said it is lovely, but.... take off all jewellery, don't look like a tourist, wear dark glasses and don't look at the buildings as if you are interested, don't wear a good handbag etc etc. hmmm, not sure about this. Anyway after the stressful dropping of Denise I decided I didn't need any more stress and chose to return to Aix by bus for one last day. I know I had done Aix to death but felt comfortable and familiar with it. I did go to Cezanne's studio which quite frankly for 5E to see one room with a few props seemed rather a lot. I managed to find a couple of last minute gift items and a couple of books in french for me to practice upon returning home.
I had lunch again in the Forum Cardeurs and wandered around one last time and had my final Cassis gelato. Caught the bus back to the airport and then the shuttle to the hotel. It is close enough to walk but they advised me against it because of the traffic. Packed my bags and then had an omlette dinner in the restaurant at the hotel which was fine. Needed to be up at the crack of dawn to catch the 8.00am flight to Paris. Had plenty of time in Paris, bought some duty free perfume and a bottle of Cassis, not thinking duh.. of course they took it off me just before boarding the plane in Bangkok. I went through several security checkpoints without any trouble but it was not to be and I was very upset, mostly with myself and the fact that it was a really good bottle of the stuff. boo hoo.
Arrived in Sydney 30 odd hours later, hubby waiting and finally had a good nights sleep in my own bed.
On reflection I know I had a good time and certainly with the telling the experience gets better each time!! I would certainly do the course again without hesitation but I don't think I would undertake such a long and arduous journey by myself. Go with hubby or someone else and perhaps do separate things but the journey oh boy from Australia it is huge. I would stop in Paris next time for a few days to recover, I think there is more to do and see there (of course) and then catch the TGV to Aix just in time for the course. Now I know the lie of the land and how things work at Crea Langue, they do wait for you if the train is late!!!
Thanks everyone who has followed this long histoire. I loved hearing your comments and encouragement. Schnauzer
Dropped Denise off at the airport and returned the car to Hertz. Caught the shuttle to the Best Western at the airport itself. I had read many reviews on this hotel and my hopes were not high. However, I was pleasantly surprised and it appeared much better than the reviews. The front desk very kindly rang around and found me a cleaned room. It was only 9.00am in the morning and it was great to drop my bags make a cup of tea and change as the weather was warming up.
Orginally I had thought about going to Marseilles for the day but on the journey to the airport after Crea Langue the teacher had instilled quite a fear into me. Go, she had said it is lovely, but.... take off all jewellery, don't look like a tourist, wear dark glasses and don't look at the buildings as if you are interested, don't wear a good handbag etc etc. hmmm, not sure about this. Anyway after the stressful dropping of Denise I decided I didn't need any more stress and chose to return to Aix by bus for one last day. I know I had done Aix to death but felt comfortable and familiar with it. I did go to Cezanne's studio which quite frankly for 5E to see one room with a few props seemed rather a lot. I managed to find a couple of last minute gift items and a couple of books in french for me to practice upon returning home.
I had lunch again in the Forum Cardeurs and wandered around one last time and had my final Cassis gelato. Caught the bus back to the airport and then the shuttle to the hotel. It is close enough to walk but they advised me against it because of the traffic. Packed my bags and then had an omlette dinner in the restaurant at the hotel which was fine. Needed to be up at the crack of dawn to catch the 8.00am flight to Paris. Had plenty of time in Paris, bought some duty free perfume and a bottle of Cassis, not thinking duh.. of course they took it off me just before boarding the plane in Bangkok. I went through several security checkpoints without any trouble but it was not to be and I was very upset, mostly with myself and the fact that it was a really good bottle of the stuff. boo hoo.
Arrived in Sydney 30 odd hours later, hubby waiting and finally had a good nights sleep in my own bed.
On reflection I know I had a good time and certainly with the telling the experience gets better each time!! I would certainly do the course again without hesitation but I don't think I would undertake such a long and arduous journey by myself. Go with hubby or someone else and perhaps do separate things but the journey oh boy from Australia it is huge. I would stop in Paris next time for a few days to recover, I think there is more to do and see there (of course) and then catch the TGV to Aix just in time for the course. Now I know the lie of the land and how things work at Crea Langue, they do wait for you if the train is late!!!
Thanks everyone who has followed this long histoire. I loved hearing your comments and encouragement. Schnauzer
Oct 9th, 2007, 05:46 AM
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I have enjoyed this, schnauzer. It brings back great memories of that hill-side drive from Saignon to Bonnieux. And that view from Lacoste? We rented a house in Lacoste in 2000 and looked every morning and evening across that beautiful valley to Bonnieux. I can still remember the farms and orchards in the valley between the two towns.
About the signs--or lack of signs-- in Nîmes: you may already know this, but for the benefit of anyone else in that situation, look for the names of major destinations on green road signs. Follow them and you'll get to a road leading out of the city.
Anselm
About the signs--or lack of signs-- in Nîmes: you may already know this, but for the benefit of anyone else in that situation, look for the names of major destinations on green road signs. Follow them and you'll get to a road leading out of the city.
Anselm
Oct 10th, 2007, 03:56 AM
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Anslem, you are right about the signs. Just pick a sign or the sign if there is only one and follow that. All seems to be revealed afterwards!! At the time you think, "that can't be right" but it often is. Nimes for an hour during rush hour wasn't much fun.
Glad you have enjoyed the long recount of my trip. That view to Bonnieux, marvellous eh?
Glad you have enjoyed the long recount of my trip. That view to Bonnieux, marvellous eh?
Oct 10th, 2007, 12:39 PM
#32
hi, schnauzer,
lovely report - thanks for taking so much trouble to record your trip for us all to enjoy.
i so sympathise with your rudderless feelings- Every so often i have to go away on business for a few days, and I really look forward to being able to suit myself, peace and quiet, etc - and within about 30 minutes of checking into my hotel, I'm bored and wanting to be home with the family.
It happens every time. I never learn.
Some of us just aren't cut out to be solo travellers.
regards, ann
lovely report - thanks for taking so much trouble to record your trip for us all to enjoy.
i so sympathise with your rudderless feelings- Every so often i have to go away on business for a few days, and I really look forward to being able to suit myself, peace and quiet, etc - and within about 30 minutes of checking into my hotel, I'm bored and wanting to be home with the family.
It happens every time. I never learn.
Some of us just aren't cut out to be solo travellers.
regards, ann
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