Provence Paris Trip Report, Thanks Everyone
Oct 12th, 2004, 04:26 PM
#1
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Provence Paris Trip Report, Thanks Everyone
Spent 9/24-10/2 in Provence and 10/2-10/9 in Paris, and it was GREAT! Thanks Ira, Underhill, Patrick, Cingla... for all your input. We flew AA into Paris, breezed through Customs, and took a bus to Orly (long story why we didn't take TGV). Took small plane from Orly to Avignon airport. The Mistral was really blowing at the airport, it had blown over large clay pots with trees in them, luckily that was the only day we experienced such high winds. We were a bit taken aback by all the military in the airports with their automatic weapons. We don't see them in KC or Chicago. Happy to see them protecting us, just surprised. Rented car from Hertz and drove to Robion, just a half an hour or so from Avignon. We were to meet the owners of the Villa at their restaurant, Le Luberon. We arrived at 5:00, and though the restaurant was closed, we were met by an older woman holding a note saying the owners would meet us at 5:15. We sat in the front indoor patio of the restaurant, with Grandma (no teeth and couldn't hear, drinking what looked like water, but I suspect was Eau de Vie)until without warning, she got up,walked out of the restaurant, and yelled upstairs in a bloodcurdling scream "Collete"! Up went the sash, loud yelling back and forth, much stomping down the stairs, and the door opened to a smiling Collete and Claude to welcome us to Provence! Perhaps you had to be there, but it seemed something out of a Pagnol novel. Pretty, buxom Collete and handsome Claude greeted us warmly with a most welcome vin biere (cold red wine?) and then we followed them to our home away from home, Villa Luberon. Down the road we went through little Robion, turn left, down the road, to the gravel road, to the dirt road, heavens where are we going? Past the vineyards, the horses, the ducks, through the gates, and at last we arrived! The main house had 3 bedrooms, with 2 separate studios attached, one at the front, and one at the back, for a total of 5 bedrooms. A pool (too cold), hot tub, and all very lovely. Not fancy or luxiourious, but very comfortable and warm. That evening drank great red wine from the Luberon, delicious olive bread from the bakery in town, and wonderful cheese. How great to be in Provence. Sorry, I've been too wordy here promise to write the rest a bit more concise, soon.
Oct 13th, 2004, 03:45 PM
#5
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If you'd like to see a picture of the house we stayed in go to www.rentavilla.com click on France, Provence, and then go to Villa Luberon.
There were seven of us on this leg of the trip. As background, my father planned this trip for the extended family. I lost my sweet, precious mother a few years ago, and since that time my dad remarried (my mother's best friend, who had been widowed). So, the plan was to rent the Provence house for 2 weeks with Father and step mother staying the full two weeks. The first set of children and step children and their spouses/friends to go the first week, and the second set to go the second week. This made for a total of 8 people for each of the weeks, or a total of 14 people. At the last moment our father (who underwrote the trip) was unable to go because of a hip ailment, but insisted we all go.
My father and mother spent at least 2 weeks a year in France for 25 years, and know the country well. Although Father could not attend, he gave us extensive instructions on day trips. We did our best to follow them, but they were rather aggresive (he had 25 years to get this accomplished!). We had two cars for 7 people, plenty of room, but it did require being flexible in terms of what everyone wanted to do. I didn't get to do as much fine dining and wineries as I would have liked, others didn't get to shop as much as they would have, and some didn't get to rest as much as they might have liked on a vacation, but we made it work. So, here we go, hold on.
First day in Provence. L'Isle sur la Sorgue on Sunday. Antique market, but I must say I saw more of a flea market, than antiques. But a beautiful town to start in. Sat in the park and listened to a young woman sing Edith Piaf songs, how french! On to Fontaine de Vaucluse, a lovely truite for lunch. The Sorgue is quite beautiful. Took a very long winding road to the Villages des Bories. Dry stacked flat stone huts, very primitive from the 1600's. Interesting, but I must say once you've seen one borie, you've seen them all. Didn't look like the people lived any better than the homes for the pigs. If I understood correctly, there were people living there as late as the 1800's! Drove through Gordes, how beautiful, will have to go back there on next trip, then on to Rousillon at sunset with its many shades of ochre, just fabulous.
More in a bit.
There were seven of us on this leg of the trip. As background, my father planned this trip for the extended family. I lost my sweet, precious mother a few years ago, and since that time my dad remarried (my mother's best friend, who had been widowed). So, the plan was to rent the Provence house for 2 weeks with Father and step mother staying the full two weeks. The first set of children and step children and their spouses/friends to go the first week, and the second set to go the second week. This made for a total of 8 people for each of the weeks, or a total of 14 people. At the last moment our father (who underwrote the trip) was unable to go because of a hip ailment, but insisted we all go.
My father and mother spent at least 2 weeks a year in France for 25 years, and know the country well. Although Father could not attend, he gave us extensive instructions on day trips. We did our best to follow them, but they were rather aggresive (he had 25 years to get this accomplished!). We had two cars for 7 people, plenty of room, but it did require being flexible in terms of what everyone wanted to do. I didn't get to do as much fine dining and wineries as I would have liked, others didn't get to shop as much as they would have, and some didn't get to rest as much as they might have liked on a vacation, but we made it work. So, here we go, hold on.
First day in Provence. L'Isle sur la Sorgue on Sunday. Antique market, but I must say I saw more of a flea market, than antiques. But a beautiful town to start in. Sat in the park and listened to a young woman sing Edith Piaf songs, how french! On to Fontaine de Vaucluse, a lovely truite for lunch. The Sorgue is quite beautiful. Took a very long winding road to the Villages des Bories. Dry stacked flat stone huts, very primitive from the 1600's. Interesting, but I must say once you've seen one borie, you've seen them all. Didn't look like the people lived any better than the homes for the pigs. If I understood correctly, there were people living there as late as the 1800's! Drove through Gordes, how beautiful, will have to go back there on next trip, then on to Rousillon at sunset with its many shades of ochre, just fabulous.
More in a bit.
Oct 13th, 2004, 04:05 PM
#6
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Next day, off to Monaco. I know, I know, you all said not to try such a long day trip. I had to see the Med, but was happy to go to Cassis, but others definitely wanted to see Monte Carlo. Remember, the theme of the vacation is flexibility, so off to Monaco we went. However, as we neared Nice, I noticed the car wasn't accelerating properly. And there was a large wrench in the indicator on the dash board. We barely made it, but got the car to the Hertz at Nice Airport. At first the Hertz fellow told me "this is a mechanic problem, not a Hertz problem" (what a hoot), but an hour later, we were back on the road to Monaco. Oh, how beautiful, I wish we could have seen more of the Mediterranean but the distance, the car, etc. kept us from seeing as much as I would have liked. So, next trip may well be Mediterranian, Grasse, St. Paul de Vence, etc. Had a lovely meal at Cafe de Paris, tagliettele and cepes, mmmm. The sea is just an amazing shade a blue.
The next day we went to Les Baux, maybe my favorite spot. I should mention here, we had no crowds our entire time in Provence. We heard virtually no English spoken, the few tour groups we saw were European. I've read some find Les Baux touristy, but all I saw was complete beauty, the craggy mountains, stone town, and achingly beautiful ruins.
John and I had lunch at Ousteau de Baumeniere. Really, one of the highlights of any trip I've ever taken. I had turbot w/ white beans and sea weed, John had Sea Bass with Pesto. Of course it was so much more than that, but I didn't keep the details (will do so next time). We both had the special Napolean for dessert, oh my. After lunch, I walked to the top of Les Baux, should have done it before lunch, but I made it. John had a stroke about 7 years ago while in his 40's, and he does fine, but the hike up was more than he was up for, he enjoyed wandering through the town built of stone and rock.
Later went to the great Arch and monument outside St. Remy. Had a wonderful walk through the serence Asylum where Van Gough lived. Back to Villa Luberon, with sore feet, a bottle of wine, and some great cheese.
The next day we went to Les Baux, maybe my favorite spot. I should mention here, we had no crowds our entire time in Provence. We heard virtually no English spoken, the few tour groups we saw were European. I've read some find Les Baux touristy, but all I saw was complete beauty, the craggy mountains, stone town, and achingly beautiful ruins.
John and I had lunch at Ousteau de Baumeniere. Really, one of the highlights of any trip I've ever taken. I had turbot w/ white beans and sea weed, John had Sea Bass with Pesto. Of course it was so much more than that, but I didn't keep the details (will do so next time). We both had the special Napolean for dessert, oh my. After lunch, I walked to the top of Les Baux, should have done it before lunch, but I made it. John had a stroke about 7 years ago while in his 40's, and he does fine, but the hike up was more than he was up for, he enjoyed wandering through the town built of stone and rock.
Later went to the great Arch and monument outside St. Remy. Had a wonderful walk through the serence Asylum where Van Gough lived. Back to Villa Luberon, with sore feet, a bottle of wine, and some great cheese.
Oct 13th, 2004, 04:14 PM
#7
Annie, the antiques are in the buildings and courtyards that are around the canal. There are some great restaurants in and around gordes.
Grandmere, if you are on line. I ordered , Elizebeth's cook book at Amazon, almost new for only $500.
This is the chef/owner of a restaurant in Gordes(les Imberts, actually) The Mas de Tourteron.
Grandmere, if you are on line. I ordered , Elizebeth's cook book at Amazon, almost new for only $500.
This is the chef/owner of a restaurant in Gordes(les Imberts, actually) The Mas de Tourteron.
Oct 13th, 2004, 05:36 PM
#10
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Next day, Chateauneuf du Pape- We've enjoyed the wine for so many years, to actually be there was just so exciting. Very beautiful, and tragic that the remains of the chateau had been bombed as the Nazis left. Had wine tasting inside town headed by a very handsome Jean Baptiste.
On to Orange, and we all loved the tour of the theatre, then on to the Arc Triumphe.
On to Vaison la Romaine, then Segueret, Gigondas, and Sabelet. Unfortunately, missed Baumes de Venice, but picked up lots of great wines.
Next day, Avignon. Palais du Papes, how phenomenal. Loved the large dining area, large chapel, and Pop's sleeping quarters. On to Pont du Gard, quite amazing. Then to Uzes, walked through the beautiful back streets, and wished we'd had more time. Finished up at Cavaillon, not a beautiful city, but had a great dinner at Fin de Siecle.
Next day, straight to Arles to see Ampitheatre, loved it but missed having an audio tour, which we enjoyed most every other place. Loved the St. Trompime Church, the carving out front of folks walking to heaven, and to hell. Most enjoyed, was the Antique theatre, for me, even better than the Ampitheatre. Drove to Tarascon but too late to get in Chateau, would like to se it and Baucaire another time. Back to St. Remy, bought lovely scarves at Les Olivades.
Our last night in Provence. Our hosts, Colette and Claude came to the home with wine and dessert, which overcomes any language difficulty. Lots of kisses (3 times on the cheek!) an promises to see each other again. I could stay here forever.
A few things I didn't mention. The roads in France are just wonderful, constructed with such high quality. Directions and the roundabouts made it very easy to get around. The people were wonderful. We never had a negative experience. The weather was perfect, with the exception of the first day of Mistral. Highly recommend Villa Luberon, understanding that this is casual comfortable living, not luxurious. I'd go back in a second. Next post, tomorrow, on Paris trip.
On to Orange, and we all loved the tour of the theatre, then on to the Arc Triumphe.
On to Vaison la Romaine, then Segueret, Gigondas, and Sabelet. Unfortunately, missed Baumes de Venice, but picked up lots of great wines.
Next day, Avignon. Palais du Papes, how phenomenal. Loved the large dining area, large chapel, and Pop's sleeping quarters. On to Pont du Gard, quite amazing. Then to Uzes, walked through the beautiful back streets, and wished we'd had more time. Finished up at Cavaillon, not a beautiful city, but had a great dinner at Fin de Siecle.
Next day, straight to Arles to see Ampitheatre, loved it but missed having an audio tour, which we enjoyed most every other place. Loved the St. Trompime Church, the carving out front of folks walking to heaven, and to hell. Most enjoyed, was the Antique theatre, for me, even better than the Ampitheatre. Drove to Tarascon but too late to get in Chateau, would like to se it and Baucaire another time. Back to St. Remy, bought lovely scarves at Les Olivades.
Our last night in Provence. Our hosts, Colette and Claude came to the home with wine and dessert, which overcomes any language difficulty. Lots of kisses (3 times on the cheek!) an promises to see each other again. I could stay here forever.
A few things I didn't mention. The roads in France are just wonderful, constructed with such high quality. Directions and the roundabouts made it very easy to get around. The people were wonderful. We never had a negative experience. The weather was perfect, with the exception of the first day of Mistral. Highly recommend Villa Luberon, understanding that this is casual comfortable living, not luxurious. I'd go back in a second. Next post, tomorrow, on Paris trip.
Oct 13th, 2004, 07:13 PM
#13
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We just returned from two weeks in Provence (trip report almost ready) and stayed in a house outside of Isle sur Sorge. I too loved the young girl singing Edith Piaf, we bought her cd and played it in the car everyday, also felling very French. I think that their cd has an email address if you are interested, Murial and Stephan, is who they are...it's quite good too.
Oct 16th, 2004, 05:42 PM
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Paris- We stayed at the Hotel de Saint Germain on rue de Four. www.hotel-de-saint-germain.com. It is about a long block away from Deux Magot, passed the Monoprix, and then a right. Our metro stops were St. Sulpice and Sevre Babylon. It is owned by the same folks as the Fleurie, but is their budget option. 120E a night. No A/C, which, of course, was not a problem in October. Tiny, tiny rooms, good bathroom with shower/bath, and clean (though they could use some new carpeting). The staff couldn't have been lovelier. We got to know all of the desk staff on a first name basis, and they were so helpful. If you want an inexpensive hotel in a great neighborhood, this is the place to be! But, don't say I didn't tell you the rooms were postage stamp sized. We had a small balcony, large enough for the two of us to walk out onto. If you want a balcony, get rooms 25, 35, etc. We were within a block of Polaine, and each morning I would make a pilgramage there for some wonderful bread and pastries. Only serious walking everyday kept me from gaining weight. Oh, pain chocolate!!!
How fun to be in Paris, so bustling after Provence. After arriving, had lunch at Buci Cafe. Great people watching, delicious escargot, and a very good croque monsiuer.
That night, ended up on the Seine near the Bateaux Parisienne and the Batobus. It was blanche nuit, light shows on the Seine, a parade of boats, and tons of people. We finally decided on the batobus, not really knowing which to choose. At first I was dissapointed in the batobus, it really is a water taxi, it was packed, adn hard to see anything, but we were eventually pleased, because we were able to get out at the Eiffel Tower. It had been 25 years since I'd been there, and many of the rest of the family had never seen it, and it was really breathtaking. All lit up, with even more lights twinkling every hour. The line in the front was long, but as you walk back there's another entrance, and we were on the elevator within 5 minutes. The top was closed, but we went to the second floor, which was plenty high for me. And, it was magical. I had brought my bottle of wine to have on the bataux, but since we had not had it, we eventually came back down the tower, sat under it, and toasted our first night in Paris. Wow, Paris....
How fun to be in Paris, so bustling after Provence. After arriving, had lunch at Buci Cafe. Great people watching, delicious escargot, and a very good croque monsiuer.
That night, ended up on the Seine near the Bateaux Parisienne and the Batobus. It was blanche nuit, light shows on the Seine, a parade of boats, and tons of people. We finally decided on the batobus, not really knowing which to choose. At first I was dissapointed in the batobus, it really is a water taxi, it was packed, adn hard to see anything, but we were eventually pleased, because we were able to get out at the Eiffel Tower. It had been 25 years since I'd been there, and many of the rest of the family had never seen it, and it was really breathtaking. All lit up, with even more lights twinkling every hour. The line in the front was long, but as you walk back there's another entrance, and we were on the elevator within 5 minutes. The top was closed, but we went to the second floor, which was plenty high for me. And, it was magical. I had brought my bottle of wine to have on the bataux, but since we had not had it, we eventually came back down the tower, sat under it, and toasted our first night in Paris. Wow, Paris....
Oct 16th, 2004, 05:52 PM
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We arrived in Paris on a Saturday, and we arranged for Michael Osman, tour guide, to pick us up on Sunday. We went through the Bio market (in the 7th?) and saw Juliete Binoche! Had one of those potato, onion, and cheese things, like a big ol' hash brown. Can't say it was might favorite. But, the market was just so beautiful and the produce to die for. We went everwhere, Madeleine church, new and old operas, and Grand Hotel. Had a wonderful lunch near Place de Vosges (I think!), a little tea room type place called the Mule and the Pope (or something like that). Both sweet and savory tarts. The tomato tarte was fabulous, and I also had really what may have been the best tasting thing I had in France, a delicious fresh salad, with lardons, artichoke hearts, just heaven. We saw a darling street show, I think in the Marais, which we loved. Missed Berthollion, just too stuffed.
Oct 16th, 2004, 06:28 PM
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Oh my, quite beautiful. Dark glasses, dark hair, and quite thin. As we peeked at her just a bit, she met a male friend, and ran her hand through her hair in such a very french and beautiful way. Although she was especially beautiful, I couldn't get over how beautiful so many of the Parisian men and women were. Although pink still seems to be a big color in the windows, along with this fall's purple, green, and orange, most women I saw wore black, little makeup, always a scraf, and almost always a dog.
Oct 17th, 2004, 06:41 AM
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The rest of Paris. We enjoyed the Picasso Museum, he was cerainly prolific. We had a wonderful meal at Wili's Wine Bar. A wonderful lamb with white beans and a beef w/ potatoes and crispy onions. Tried to get a drink at the Hemingway in the Ritz but was not open yet. Had dinner at Vaudeville, oysters, a delicious duck, and creme brullee. Such a fun restaurant. Next day, Musee D'Orsay, my favorite. But, it was packed since we went on Tuesday when the Louvre was closed. I'd choose another day when the crowds might not be so big. It's the only place the entire trip where there were just too many people. Enjoyed the Arc du Triomph, w/ an interesting photo exhibit of 1944. Dinner at aux Charpentiers, mine was not good, really inedible, but perhaps I just chose wrong. Next day, enjoyed St. Chappelle, as beautiful as I remembered. The ceiling seems to just float about those walls of glass. Wnet to the Conciergerie, and found it fascinating. A lovely lunch at Le Bon marche. Dinner at Bistro 121, a delicious artichat sland and also a crawfish salad. It had been written up in La Belle France.
Oct 17th, 2004, 06:22 PM
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Had lunch at Grand Vefour, a 3 hour experience! Foie Gras, Pumpkin soup w/ ravioli, salmon, a wonderful cheese course, and a fabulous desset, chocolate mousse w/ caramel ice cream.
Spent most of the next day at Louvre. Late lunch at Fauchon at Galleries lafayette, then to fun fashion show. You can sign up for it on line.
We had been warned at the holel to be on guard for pickpocketers in the Metro, and sure enough they tried. One in front trying to distract John, the other right behind him. Luckily, I realized something wasn't right, and aggresively wedged myself behind John and one of the perpetrators. Nothing lost, but oh, it made me mad.
Dinner at Petite Marguery, scallop ravioli, langostines and pasta, and fossilades et creme anglaise.
Learned many lessons for future trips. But, I found I still have much to learn. One, I need to work on, is how to organize my materials, I had too many different pages of paper, and was still missing some I wished I'd had. Two, research, research, research. I learned a lot from this site, but now wish I'd studied more. Three, be spontaneous. Some of the great sights and meals we had, were from just giving something a try.
Now for the next trip..... maybe Italy?? Thanks again for all your help. annie
Spent most of the next day at Louvre. Late lunch at Fauchon at Galleries lafayette, then to fun fashion show. You can sign up for it on line.
We had been warned at the holel to be on guard for pickpocketers in the Metro, and sure enough they tried. One in front trying to distract John, the other right behind him. Luckily, I realized something wasn't right, and aggresively wedged myself behind John and one of the perpetrators. Nothing lost, but oh, it made me mad.
Dinner at Petite Marguery, scallop ravioli, langostines and pasta, and fossilades et creme anglaise.
Learned many lessons for future trips. But, I found I still have much to learn. One, I need to work on, is how to organize my materials, I had too many different pages of paper, and was still missing some I wished I'd had. Two, research, research, research. I learned a lot from this site, but now wish I'd studied more. Three, be spontaneous. Some of the great sights and meals we had, were from just giving something a try.
Now for the next trip..... maybe Italy?? Thanks again for all your help. annie
