schnauzer

Thanks everyone for your great comments. Yes the Romantic museum for my proposition - gotta love it.

A Sydney GTG would be a great idea, let's work on it.

Trish, the working off the tarts is going to be a problem I know, but why come to Paris if you are going to be sensible?
It was a lovely night with the GTG and I was very pleased to meet you. A shame you are now home. I will do a few circuits around the streets for you!

Laidback thanks for the link, as you see from my report I had a look at some other apartments.

Schnauzer

schnauzer

Hi

We finally made it to Giverny today. It was very cool and cloudy but at least it didn't rain. We caught the 8.20am train, I wanted to be there as it opened to avoid the crowds. We were surprised by how many people that were there with the same idea! Most of the Iris were still out which is what I was wanting to see.

We also went and saw the exhibition at the Impressionist Museum about the development of Monet's garden, that too was very interesting and well worth a visit.

We had another fabulous lunch at Hotel Baudy, we ate there last time as well. DH had the duck salad which is enormous and the veg soup, I had the forumla with walnut salad to start and Turkey with a lovely hot cream and mushroom sauce and Potatoes Dauphinoise with the creme caramel for afters!!

We caught the 2.25pm bus back to Vernon, it was so full they had to knock people back, I guess they missed the train to Paris. It would have been a long 3 hours as there is not the 4.something train on a Saturday. It would have been a very long cold day. If you plan to go on a Saturday check the train times and frequency.

I took heaps of photos of course, I will post the chosen ones soon.

Schnauzer

crefloors

This is so fun to read. My chances of getting back to Paris anytime soon are slim and none, so I live vicariously through wonderful trip reports.

I'm still using the mouse pad I bought at the gift shop at Monet's house about six years ago. It, and other "treasures" bring back good memories.

progol

Schnauzer--
Oh, so much fun to read your report! Dh and I also met you last Saturday at the Fodors GTG, and we, too are back home now. The week flew by! How I envy that month you have - so many places to still go to (for the next trip).

Hello, Trish and John! Enjoyed meeting everyone that evening!

Paule and Michael

schnauzer

Last night after dinner at home we went out to the Musee des Nuits. We chose Victor Hugo's House in the Marais as our preferred museum. The line was quite long but it moved along quickly and soon we were in the house. It was quite an interesting museum, his own apartments were good and I enjoyed seeing his own sketches and drawings. I hadn't realised he was so talented as both a writer and artist.

We were both really tired after getting up early for Giverny so we gave it a miss after Victor and came home. The city was certainly buzzing.

I have bought some dog treats to give to all the "homeless" dogs but since I have bought them I haven't seen a dog!! They must go home at night.

Will do today's report a little later, we have been trekking around this afternoon and I am quite flat at the moment.

Schnauzer

julia_t

I also met you at the GTG last Saturday!

I said then how much I had been enjoying your on-the-spot trip report, and I am still avidly reading it!

Please post the pics of Giverny.

Last Sunday I went to the Richard Lenior street market - oh it was torture! To know I was flying home that evening and not be able to buy any of the wonderfully luscious vegetables and fruit, the meat and fish, the foie gras! I wished I had an apartment and I could take some of the produce 'home' to eat and cook, better still to be in Paris for a long time (is forever too much to ask?) so I could shop there every Sunday!

Then I went on to the Canal St MArtin and this was a delight.

Here's what I emailed to a friend about it and the rest of my day...

I took the metro back up to past Republique and got off. Walked up rue Lancry to the Canal St Martin. Just here are the first locks after the tunnel - BTW all along Bvd Richard Lenoir are gardens in the centre which have the canal skylights! They are even in the middle of the market.

Oh it was so nice - quiet and peaceful, leafy and green. Just Parisians riding their bicyclettes (often the hire ones, up there you can rent them by Hotel du Nord), walking their dogs, jogging, strolling with children on tricycles or scooters. There were a few nice shops open - you can see them in one of Kerouac's photos, they are all pink, green and yellow! I bought some gifts for the girls there. Found a lovely restaurant with a great menu but it was only 11.30 and I wasn't hungry then having been snacking on bits and pieces I had bought in the market. Stopped for a coffee, but couldn't walk too much further on as my ankle was sore, so I turned back towards town as it were and got on a metro and eventually ended up in Montmartre.

Packed with tourists of course. Such a contrast to the Canal. Took the funicular up, wandered round the Place du Tertre but it was very busy. Thought about the Dali museum/exhibition but it was 10 euros to get in so I turned away as I'm not that much of a fan of Dali. All the tables outside restaurants were full by this time so I ate in a funny little place down a side street, 3 courses for 11 euros and a pichet of rose for 5.50 euros.

Took the metro back to the hotel, got my little case and then took the 96 bus all the way to its destination at Gare du Montparnasse, sightseeing along the way because I had to rest my ankle. Got on the next 96 bus going BACK as far as St Michel. Had a final glass of wine at a cafe in front of the St Michael fountain, then it was down to the depths of the RER station for the train to CDG. I was back at home just after 9pm that evening!

Do please keep posting your reports, and my daughter may well be in touch if she gets as far as Australia during her gap year LOL!

Have a wonderful time for the rest of your trip!

PS, when exactly are you coming to London?

ddena

Schnauzer, what a wonderful report. I can not tear myself away. I was in Paris last year at this time, and am so anxious to get back. We never made it to Giverny, as it is closed on Mondays- who knew?- so I too am looking forward to your pix. The food is also amazing. I was on such a budget, we ate in most of the time, with one splurge lunch at Taillivent. And I so miss the heavenly macarons. I shipped home most of my stuff- la poste has these pre-paid boxes for $40E, and it only took a week! I am devoted to your report- bon voyage!!
Dena
ps. we really lucked out on weather, as we expected what you have and we had every day brilliant 22-23C!

Sue4

Love your report and pictures. What a wonderful trip you're having! You must be in great shape to do all that walking. I love to do that - but at this point in my life my feet can't make it. I can,but not my feet!

schnauzer

Julie, it was lovely to meet you the other Saturday, gosh how time flies. I am glad you are enjoying the report. My husband went to Canal St. Martin and didn't like it, I had it on my list and after reading your report I will put it back on!!

It is a lovely day today, of course, as I have earmarked this a shopping day! Typical.

I am glad ddena you are still reading away and Sue4 as well. I need to update my report but the shops are calling......

Schanuzer

danon

"Last night after dinner at home we went out to the Musee des Nuits. We chose Victor Hugo's House in the Marais as our preferred museum. The line was quite long..."

we walked by that line on our last night in Paris ( stayed from 8-17) but did not feel like waiting in line.
Earlier we attended a wonderful organ concert at church on Ile Saint-Louis
The weather did change several times a day , I wonder if this is normal for mid May?
We are rather lazy travelers and tend to do a lot less day (we have visited Paris many times )
I don't know if you are interested in seeing two great art
shows we loved : Calder and Kandinsky (at Pompidou).
Blake exhibit at Petit Palais was a revelation .
Père Lachaise Cemetery was a surprisingly beautiful. ( educational to see less glamorous - poor and immigrant - population of north-east Paris).
On every visit to Paris we just have to go to Orsay, St. Chapel and Notre -Dame.
Eating big meals is not a priority for us, but a trip to
La Grand Epicerie is a must.
Our apt. was in 11eme, right at the edge of Marais . We spend more time in Marais than ever before - loved it.
My husband ( a dedicated beer drinker) refused to pay 9 ( comes to $14-15 Canadian dollars)euros for a pint - I know, I know you can have it for half standing at a bar in less touristy spots..
....
Having 4-5 euros coffee or 8-9 euros beer was replaced by a glass or two of wine ( for the same amount).
Having walked through several arrondissements
away from the "elegant and rich" , it became obvious that many Parisian women are not dressed in black,slim,
chic, well groomed .
Most people look like the inhabitants of any large, cosmopolitan city : a mix of races, styles, incomes,
interests , taste....etc

crefloors

Schanuzer, I want a full shopping report please. I love shopping in Paris!!!!!!

palette

I am so enjoying your posts; my g-daughter and I were there in early April, and I am reliving our days in my mind. Makes me wish I owned a laptop to do a live feedback to those at home (and here too of course).

TPAYT

You had me drooling at the pistacio cake with cherries then up came the meat & melon---I think I'm gaining weight just looking at your fabulous photos. MDH just walked in and laughed out loud that I could be looking at pictures of food. Well, guess what? He also got hooked looking at them.

If you get over that way, "Marco Polo" restaurant on Rue de Conde near the Odeon has the best proscuitto and melon starter plate, along with the grilled antipasto starter plate it's a full meal, but it's hard to resist the veal & pasta dishes. I know it's Italian, but it's still one of my favorite places in Paris.

We haven't been to the "Romantic Museum" but it is now on our list. The gardens are beautiful, but what's inside?

Keep it coming!

Leely2

I have tried and failed to visit Victor Hugo's house on three trips to Paris. Your comments confirm this 19th-century literature lover's suspicion: I need to get in there.

Looking forward to more.

gomiki

TPAYT, We stayed a few doors away from the Marco Polo restaurant at the end of March. Your post made me say, "Uggghhh!" We must have walked past it a hundred times!

schnauzer, I'm loving this!

schnauzer

An update on the report, Sunday and Monday. Photos as well if I can do them quickly.

Sunday May 17th 09

Today we had a chores morning. Oh yes, those things still have to be done even when you are living the life of a Parisienne. We needed to go and pick up our Eurostar tickets for London. We metroed along to Gare du Nord and finally found the Eurostar booking office. They don’t make it easy. It is upstairs, you get the feeling that it is only the “lounge” up there, but no, it is all up there. I am glad we weren’t in a rush trying to catch our train. Tickets collected back to the apt. for lunch.

We then headed out to the Petit Palais, this time we actually found it next to the Grand Palais, right where it should be!! ( Just off the Champs Elysee) I thought it was just lovely, great building, reasonably recently renovated, (say that quickly). The frescoed ceilings and gorgeous wrought iron staircase were a delight as were so many of the exhibits. In the Tuck (Mr and Mrs. Tuck donated all the items) exhibition there were some fantastic pieces of furniture and a lot of lovely enameled trinkets, boxes, etc. They must have worked hard at collecting so many gorgeous pieces. There is a lot of info, all in French unfortunately, about the building of the Palais with old architectural drawings which would suite anyone remotely interested in building or architecture. They had included some coloured sketches with amazing detail. We didn’t partake of the coffee shop but it did look rather pleasant sitting outside with a view of the garden. The musee is free.

The garden outside was looking particularly lovely with all the Louisiana Iris out in full bloom around the ponds, it is well worth a little saunter outside to see these little gardens.

The musee “done” we headed down to the Ile de Cite for another self guided walk, the main reason for going was to see the Memorial des Martyrs de la Deportation. This is a very sobering memorial at the very end tip of the island to all the French who were deported by the Germans since 1933. Some 200,000 were deported. Practically none returned. Sobered by this we continued on our walk passing some very old streets and seeing how the original landscape ran – ie the roads went straight into the Seine, but since it flooded so much they finally built the Quai aux Fleurs to keep the water out. We had a lovely hot chocolate near the Notre Dame, we were very excited because it was actually really hot (unusual) and the cups were nearly full – yay, and they were only $18 for the two!!!!!!! A bargain – not. This is why we try and have our coffee in the apt before we head out and afternoon tea back at the apartment when we get back.

We made our back to our district and had dinner some other Australians we had met. We just went back to Le Server on rue des Martyrs where I had the chicken curry and DH a burger (? ) We chatted away and had a good evening.

Monday 18th May 09

I wanted to get a reasonably early start this morning as the shops were beckoning me. We nearly got out early!! We headed straight down to Rue du Bac and wandered along, Monday is never the best time to go shopping but today was the day. A lot of the shops are closed but that didn’t stop me completely. My first stop was at Furla where I bought a new purse/wallet I had been coveting for the past few days, in an electric blue colour! Rather snazzy I thought. I bought some French books to read, ages 11 – 14, I have progressed from 9 – 11!!!! I bought a Petit Nicholas of course and couple more about adventures with dogs. Well at least I think they are.

I found a little cotton sac bag made from a toile fabric which was just perfect for my environmentally friendly sister, however the fabric was made in Wales, would you believe, but the bag at least had the name of the shop and the Paris address on it. Just perfect little gifts for everyone but it says in large letter, Material made in Wales – huh, I thought you went to Paris!!!! I bought a funky key chain in the, ist it Pylone shop, or something like that. They seem to be everywhere, all plastic stuff, crazy kitchen things etc.

We bought some lunch in Bon Marche and took it to my park for a picnic, this time we chose our lunch as the formules had finished. I still had a macaroon but a coffee flavoured one this time which I preferred to the chocolate, DH chose a custard flan which was yummy.

We then parted company and I took off to the socks and stockings section of Bon Marche. I had bought some great things here last time and was hoping to repeat the experience. I nearly did, but I have to say the prices did hold me back somewhat. $75 for a pair of tights was just a little bit too exy for me. I compromised and bought some knee highs with funky patterns instead. Half size, half price, makes sense.

An American couple who had stayed in this apartment and who also post on Fodors web site rang me and asked if I wanted to meet them and have a cup of tea or something and see their apartment which is not far from ours. We met at 3.00pm and they were really friendly and informative about other apartments. They have been travelling to Paris and staying for nearly 4 months every year for about the past 15 years, what they didn’t know about apartments wasn’t worth knowing!!! They still haven’t found the Perfect one. There is always a compromise.

I wanted to see the Batignolles area so afterwards I headed off over that way. It is a true Paris area, real people, real shops etc, no tourists. It was quite nice but I still think I prefer the Lamark area from last week’s excursion. I picked up a great savoury tart from a shop at the top of rue Lepic. By this time my poor feet were numb so I headed home. It was salmon with an unidentified herb. I tried looking for the name in the dictionary but couldn’t find it. I recognized the flavour but can’t think of the name. – just came to me – Tarragon. It was very good.

That’s all for today,
Till later,

Photos when we get back from dinner!

schnauzer

I know it is the middle of the night in the US but for those over this side of the world here is the latest photo link.


http://www.kodakgallery.co.uk/ShareL...localeid=en_GB

I hope it works OK, there are rather a lot this time of Giverny, so speed through them if it all gets too much.

Schnauzer

kerouac

Great pictures -- and great spring flowers!

goldwynn

Kerouac ...... sorry I never got back to thank you for answering my question about a list of stations that might sell carnets, but my computer has been down for some two weeks and I have had withdrawl. Thanks for your answer.

Anyway, in response to your comment about credit cards having chips. I am Canadian and banks here are in the process of issuing new chip cards ......... my debit card was replaced some three months ago and the word is that Visa is also in the process and will be chipped when a card holder`s card expires.

Pardon me for horning in on your postings Schnauzer which I have enjoyed as well as your wonderful photos.

irishface

Thanks for keeping us up to date on your doings and for posting your pictures as you along. Love the flowers at Giverny and your details of Paris doorways, etc. The picture with the grouping of flowers and garden tools and vessels by the back door was my favorite.

Keep it coming and thanks again from one who would love to be there but can't swing it this year.