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Schnauzer reporting live from Paris May09

Schnauzer reporting live from Paris May09

Old May 1st, 2009, 11:44 AM
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Schnauzer reporting live from Paris May09

I have finally arrived in Paris this afternoon. We flew Japan Airlines and had to spend the night in Tokyo, which was actually quite good. We never usually break the journey but I think I like it. I flew frequent flyers and my husband an ordinary ticket. Shame they didn't have any FF for business class out of Tokyo to Paris and I had to go first!!!! Think I like that as well!!

We had Inter Shuttle pick us up. They were waiting so that worked really well.

The apartment is in the 9th district, last time we stayed in the 7th so we now have a new area to get used to.

This afternoon we mooched around and bought some very basic essentials. It is a public holiday so a lot of places are shut. It is quite warm and very pleasant weather wise today. The sun is shining and I was quite warm in jeans and a little jacket over a long sleeve top. May this lovely weather continue.

We had a light supper at about 8.30 in the rue de Martyrs, croque madame for me and croque monsieur for monsieur. Back to the apartment as the jet lag is kicking in. Mind you I had a great 4 hour sleep on the plane which was good for a daylight flight.

I will write more when I have something to report and the jet lag fades.
Schnauzer
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Old May 1st, 2009, 12:14 PM
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Welcome to the city. Paris will be much more active starting May 2nd. I believe that you may discover that the 8th arrondissement has a number of advantages. (Very few arrondissements do not.)
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Old May 1st, 2009, 02:24 PM
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schnauzer, please don't feel you must wait until you have "something" to report before you post about your time in Paris. It's interesting to see how we each spend our days and nights in a city that has so many choices

My husband and I will be meeting you at the GTG on the 23rd, I believe. We arrive on May 5 but immediately take the TGV to the Alsace Lorraine and Champagne regions before returning to Paris. I hope you have a wonderful trip. I look forward to your reports and meeting you at Le Perraudin. Deborah
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Old May 1st, 2009, 09:42 PM
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I meant to type 9th arrondissement instead of 8th....
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 05:46 AM
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Day two in Paris: Having spent a pretty awful night, it is hard trying to go to sleep when your body is saying "time to wake up". Anyway, had a light breakfast in the apartment and then we wandered back to rue des Martyrs to buy some fresh provisions. We chose some lovely Brie de Meaux cheese, some Comte cheese, slices of jambon aux herbes and some rabbit terrine with mustard. Off to the greengrocers for salad stuff and a large box of strawberries, yum.

Had a lovely lunch with bread and the meats and cheeses back in the apartment.

Walked down to the Blvd Haussman which was only a 10mins walk. OMG I couldn't believe the crowds in Galleries Lafayette. Yuk, Printemps was much more civilised. It was only for a quick recce to check out the handbags!!! I was a bit disappointed to be honest. I bought a gorgeous Longchamps bag 4 years ago and of course I am trying to find similar but different. Oh, well only day one of the search.

The weather has been very interesting today, started off sunny and cool, then went cloudy and cold, then has come sunny and warm!!

The 9th district is different, today because of the holiday weekend it is very quiet. Almost too quiet, you get the feeling everyone has disappeared (which they probably have) the shops and cafes are closed to a large extent. It doesn't have that buzz to it at the moment. However, that soon changed the closer one got to the Blvd Haussman, then it was wall to wall tourists. hmm, one extreme to the other.

I was wanting to find my "regular" cafe to be, but so far haven't discovered anything that will fit the bill. Maybe on Monday it may show itself!

I had forgotten how dirty cities can be. I guess living in the Sydney surburbs one doesn't see all the papers and rubbish and dog poop strewn all over the streets. I thought Paris was cleaner from memory. The gutters are full of cans, cups and papers, the cigarette butts are everywhere. I hope after a few days I will be able to not notice this. There is a lot of building and renovation work going on in the 9th adding to the desolate appearance. I know I am sounding a bit negative here, but just saying it like I am seeing it on day one and two.

We went to St. George Metro and the nice man behind the counter sorted out our Navigio Decouverte. We had taken passport photos with us but he didn't even ask us for them. We bought the pass and put on one weeks worth of "tickets". We can start using this on Monday. He did this all for us and I enjoyed using my french. I have to tried to speak french at all times, so far so good. I guess I have improved since I was here last.

It is the first Sunday of the month tomorrow so we are going to pick a museum, I think perhaps the Marmottan Monet. We haven't been there before. We are practically next door to the Gustave Moreau museum so we may add that on to the list as well.

I am going to have a well deserved cup of tea now and then I may head out again for another walk. I have lots of info of this district so rather than wandering aimlessly around I will now read about the area as I go and know what it is I am looking at.

Till later,
Schnauzer
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 06:11 AM
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Since the Marmottan is a private museum it probably isn't free for the first Sunday of the month. Don't let that stop you from going though. It is a wonderful museum.
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 06:19 AM
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Thanks for the info AGM, how do you find out which are private and which are public?

Schnauzer
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 07:14 AM
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Schnauzer,

The museum pass page shows all those that are on the pass...perhaps on the pass brouchre, too. Jacquemarte-Andre is another popular private one.

The "extra" trash is probably due to it being a holiday weekend and things are not getting their normal cleanups.
I noticed some ocerfilled green trash containers here, in the 7th earlier today. Most popular restaurants are open around here..all the Constants are open.

Enjoy your stay....

a bientot....

Joan
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 08:10 AM
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I knew that the Marmottan was a private museum since we tried to get in using the Museum Pass. Not accepted! Here is a website with information of what museums are free on Sunday. It is in French but the list is self explanatory. Have fun. http://www.parisinfo.com/paris-guide...-toute-l-annee
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 08:27 AM
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schnauzer, I'm enjoying this. And I know where your "hood" because I went to the Gustave Moreau twice when we were in Paris at the end of March. The second time was to retrieve my forgotten glasses

Looking forward to more.
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 08:56 AM
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Regarding the trash, it is picked up 364 days a year in Paris. It is not picked up on May 1st.
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 09:02 AM
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I thought perhaps it had something to do with the holiday weekend. It does seem somewhat stange that the only day for not picking up is May 1st.

Joan
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 09:34 AM
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Enjoying your report...

I was dismayed to read about the trash. Hope it has been picked up!
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 09:52 AM
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May 1st is Labor Day. You are not supposed to work on that day, and sanitation workers do not.
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 10:16 AM
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You should still add the photos to your ND id card yourself, and finish filling it out, in case the 'checkers' want to check you in the subway.
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Old May 3rd, 2009, 07:25 AM
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Thanks Travelnut I will add my photo after I have finished writing up the rest of yesterday's activities and today's.

After my well earned cup of tea I headed back out again, this time by myself. I was following some notes on the 9th that I had printed out. I found the lovely Square d'Orleans off rue Taitbout #80, Chopin lived here as well as George Sand. You have to enter through a large doorway which appears locked, however a lady entered just before me and I followed in hot pursuit. I had a look around and then came back out onto the street. A french lady approached me and asked in french if this was the Square d"Orleans and how did she get in? The good bit was a) she asked me in French b) I understood and c) answered back in French!!!!What a confidence booster!! I walked back down the Rue du Faubourg Montmartre for quite a while and took a detour up rue Cadet where I couldn't resist a yummy slice of apricot tart with the flakiest butteriest pastry! I quickly disposed of that and after wiping custard and apricots off my face I headed down to Passage Verdeau and kept going into Passage Jouffroy. My feet were aching my this time so I headed back home to the apartment.

I was fading fast by this time and we went out to the No Stress Cafe near Place St. Georges. The cafe was buzzing but the food was quite ordinary, it filled the spot quickly which by that stage was the main aim. I had the pasta with basil, tomatoes and mozarella, DH had the squid and prawn noodles.

Back home to bed.

I am going to write my notes on word and paste them here so I will return soon.

Schnauzer
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Old May 3rd, 2009, 08:04 AM
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Bonjour Schnauzer!

Lovely trip report so far.

>> crowds at Galleries Lafayette. Yuk, Printemps was much more civilised.

--- LOL I think we're on the same wavelength. I get that everytime I go to GL and it always makes me go to Printemps instead. Plus, the VAT refund line is much shorter at Printemps (at least when I went there)!

>> No Stress Cafe near Place St. Georges
Funny name for a cafe; too bad the food was ordinary.

Your encounter at Square d'Orleans made me smile!

S'il vous plaît continuer à écrire plus à propos de votre voyage agréable!
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Old May 3rd, 2009, 08:16 AM
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May 3rd Sunday
Woke up early but at least I had a decent nights sleep. We decided to go to the Picasso Museum today and also if the weather held out go on the Planted Promenade walk from the Bastille.

We caught the metro and arrived at the museum, I am not a great fan of Picasso but my DH wanted to have a look. Thus the reason for choosing the free Sunday option, nothing lost something gained. We had a coffee first in the garden, I thought the lady said the coffee was free because it was so cold today, great I thought, sounded too good to be true, which of course it was. I realised that she meant it was uncrowded and we could sit anywhere. Oops the French let me down this morning. We toured the museum which if you were a fan of Picasso would be great. Enough of funny faces and we headed off the Bastille through the beautiful Place de Vosges via the Rayure shop. I need to come back and take my time choosing my new Rayure tops, I do like them.

We found the entrance to the Planted Promenade at the side of the Opera Bastille. It is an old railway track that has been planted out with beautiful trees and shrubs, very peaceful and calming. There were lots of joggers out making me feel guilty. The walk is about 4.5kms in length. You reach a park in the middle and then continue on, the buildings become very modern apartment blocks, the walk continues after a mall style street and changes its format into a much wilder style of planting, very quiet and relaxing. We ducked out at Belair metro and caught the train back to Pont Marie for lunch and a walk around the Ile St-Louis.

We had eaten at Le Caveau de l’Isle at 36 rue Saint Louis en l’Isle four years ago when we were last in Paris. We had very much enjoyed our meal and thought we would return. It had been a Fodor’s recommendation and a good one at that. We both had the Foie gras with fig marmalade and toast, I had the steak with Bernaise sauce and the hottest crispy potatoes which were just lovely. DH had the duck and a potato galette. I chose the Tarte Tartine for dessert. Last time I had tried the blackcurrant sorbet which was just divine so I asked if I could have a serve of that on the side which they did. Dh had waffles and chocolate sauce. It was the same menu as we had had four years ago, which was interesting. I guess it means they do it well and stick to a winning formula. They were very friendly and the service excellent.

I had printed off a walk from a book I had borrowed from the library which pointed out interesting houses and sights around the island. We followed the walk but by now it was getting a bit cold and our feet were dropping off. Back to the apartment but via the Gustave Moreau museum which is in our street.

Gustave Moreau’s paintings were not really our thing, very dark and depressing subjects. How Monet learnt from him I don’t know; their work was so completely opposite.

Back to the apartment for another well earned cup of tea and a feet up and a Fodors write up.

After that huge lunch we are going to have some of our cheese, terrine and salad left over from yesterday for dinner. I am still fit to burst so I might not even fit that in.

Today it was much colder, I had on a vest, long sleeve t shirt, lamb’s wool jumper, cords, thick socks and jacket with a scarf. I wasn’t frozen or anything, but the sun really didn’t come out all day and that makes such a difference temperature wise.

I have got to think of lots of places to go using my Navigo card tomorrow, I want to practice whizzing through those turnstiles! Maybe a trip to Bon Marche might be on the cards. I want to find that HBV shop as well.

I finally heard from Paris Greeter, about five days before we left home. We have organized a tour of Montmatre with a lady on Wednesday which sounds good. She says she likes having Aussies on her tours.

Until tomorrow,
Schnauzer
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Old May 5th, 2009, 02:26 AM
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My adventures continue.

Today we decided to do different things, I went off to look at Bon Marche and then I did a walking tour through Lost Paris, following Leonard Pitt’s book.

I was still on the hunt for this elusive handbag which I can’t find. Bon Marche is such a beautiful shop it was no hardship going around and around. I wanted to find the Longchamps boutique as the lady at Longchamp at Bon Marche told me they would have everything there. Only 5 mins away she tells me. She obviously didn’t know how navigationally challenged I am. I sent off in the direction I thought was right (it was right, I later discovered) checked my map, oh no the wrong way, so I turned around, headed back past Bon Marche. I decided to duck into the Grand Epicerie and got told off for taking a photo of the fantastic cakes!! Interdit Madame. Oops. After salivating over the amazing displays of cold cuts, fruit, cakes and everything else I decided to buy a lunch bag, made up of a crispy French stick with ham and cheese, a chocolate macaroon and a bottle of water. Good value at 6.50E. Clutching my lunch off I headed down rue Sevres realizing when I reached the Vaneau metro that I had gone in the completely wrong direction. Zut alors. I turned around again and walked past Bon Marche for the third time. I saw a lovely little park next to the shop and went in and joined the locals having lunch sitting on a bench in the beautiful sunshine. Young mums were watching their charges on the play equipment and young lovers were lazing on the grass with bottles of something exotic and the older lady next to me was having a nap. Ah, life is good. Off I went again, these huge intersections are very confusing, I was just about to open my mouth and ask a lady at the crossing which direction I should be heading when she asked me for directions!! So I got out my little plan book and together we found where we both needed to get to. Eventually I found the Longchamp boutique – only 1.5hrs later!!! Oh, well not much more than 5 minutes then!!! After all that they really didn’t have anything different to what I had seen elsewhere. So the search continues. I then took the metro to start on my walk.

Using my book I started my walk, it was very interesting trying to envisage what Paris used to look like before Haussman’s redevelopment. I walked from St. Germain des Pres metro along the main boulevard and in and out of some tiny original streets that had been spared from demolition. You can see how overcrowded it would have been hundreds of years ago. I found Paris’ oldest café, dating back from 1600’s and it is still going today. Hopefully they have changed the menu in the meantime. I found a lovely courtyard called Cour du Rohan which ends almost opposite the café. I entered from rue du
Jardinet, the courtyards – there are three, date from the 14th century and were just gorgeous. I continued on the walk ducking in and out of interesting streets ending up at Place St. Michel and then onto Rue Saint-Julien le Pauvre where the Church of St. Julien is the second oldest church in Paris. (Having started at St. Germain – the oldest) The walk ends at Square Viviani opposite Notre Dame.

I had a quick look at Shakespeare and Co. but it was so crowded I didn’t last long. Back on the metro and home. As I waited at the metro station I could hear lovely French accordion music getting louder as the train approached, in the same carriage that I got into was an old boy playing his accordion, unfortunately the metro police got on and booked him which I thought was very sad. It was so perfectly French sounding.

DH spent the day walking around Passy and the16th, he saw some fabulous architecture and I think I will do the walk myself another day.

We went out to Les Deux Theatres for dinner. It was only around the corner. The service was very lacking, almost back to the old French “we don’t like tourists” mentality. No warmth, so assistance, you felt like you had disturbed them and were a major inconvenience. Finally a young male waiter began helping us and he at least had a smile. I had the bottom of an artichoke, smoked salmon and poached egg with a mustard dressing over salad, DH had Tuna Tartare, we both had the Veal Kidneys and special crispy potatoes for mains. We shared the crème brulee and the profiteroles with hot chocolate sauce that came out very cold. After pointing this out we then received a huge bowl of boiling choc sauce!! Coffee and a bottle of wine was included along with a champagne cocktail to start for 38.00E a head.

A reasonably early night as we had been awake since 5.00am that morning.

More to do tomorrow!!

Schnauzer
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Old May 5th, 2009, 02:33 AM
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Great report -- I can tell that you're going to get the most out of Paris. May you have many unplanned discoveries!
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