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Schnauzer, live from Paris, Lyon, Nice, Averyon and Dordogne, join me

Schnauzer, live from Paris, Lyon, Nice, Averyon and Dordogne, join me

Old Jun 15th, 2013, 10:31 AM
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Ditto, Schnauzer. This is a most fun and interesting report. I should be out in the garden and I'm reading this instead!,
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Old Jun 15th, 2013, 10:44 AM
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Gosh, hope I am not keeping you from important jobs but as Denise has now gone I have finished today's episode as well, so up to date now. Glad you are on board...

15th June Saturday

I can't believe I have only been here for just over a week, I feel like it is nearly two... Done so much, eaten so much.....and sadly it is Denise's last day.

We were told if we wanted to see inside some of the traboules then we should head out in the morning as they were often open for the postman but after that access was closed. So, map in hand off we trotted up and down rue de Boeuf and rue Juiverie. Unfortunately someone had also told the tour groups the same thing and suddenly from the quiet peaceful Lyon of yesterday a ghastly crowded town materialised. Where had they all come from? Franz and Helga, Demitri and Sofia but also with lots of Jean-Paul's and Marie-Celestes thrown in for good measure spoiling our photos. Not a Bruce and Sharon to be seen. We did our best with the photos, of course sunlight and shadows playing their evil part.

Stimulated by an espresso au lait we then headed out of town up the very steep montee du Gourguillon which does eventually lead all the way back up to the Notre Dame. I thought I had read that this street had been named after the gargoyles on the houses, but something had been lost in translation and we didn't see a one. (Actually we did see one very poor effort, not worth noting)
Back down montee des Epies to Eglise St. Georges and our restaurant of last night. As it was lunchtime and Denise had wanted to try a particular dish we decided to return. It was very busy, always a good sign, so we had to sit in the sun which by this time was quite fierce. A breeze was blowing and after a couple of glasses of cold white wine we didn't seem to notice anymore.

We both had a lovely big lunch as Denise was flying out that afternoon and she wouldn't have had time to eat before her flight. Gosh, go without food for more than three hours in Lyon... Unheard of. I had the porc medallions with a mustard sauce and Denise the duck. Oh, alright we had dessert as well.... Red fruit mousse for me and a cafe gourmand for Denise. I wanted to visit the miniature museum, which is attached to our building in fact and Denise thought she would do a last run at the shops. The museum was quite good, loads of stuff from movie sets, models etc and then a whole heap of miniature exhibitions. Unfortunately the day was really hot and there was no A/C. Wasn't sure whether I was having a continual hot flush or what.... Maybe the wine? Anyway I needed to exit stage left and we met again in the little square at the bottom of our building.

Our last cuppa together, boo hoo. Denise packed and we chatted for a little while longer until it was time to walk to the station and say our goodbyes. It has been so good to see her again and hopefully she will finally make it out to Australia one day.

Timing was everything, we missed the plane strike in Paris and then the evening we left Paris they called a train strike. Lets hope nothing else comes about.

Feeling a bit flat and low I bought a baguette sandwich for dinner and made my way back home. Now I don't have anyone to talk to I could get on with the typing which does take a long time to do. Some chappie is playing an accordion in the street below which is quite nice to listen to on my last night. Off to Nice tomorrow afternoon. So till then au revoir mes amies.
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Old Jun 15th, 2013, 10:45 AM
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So glad to read more about Lyon. We had to cut our trip short before seeing several sites so I'm enjoying your TR vicariously.
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Old Jun 15th, 2013, 12:11 PM
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I have spent insufficient time in Lyon, so it is good to read all of this.
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Old Jun 15th, 2013, 07:38 PM
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did love Lyon so. nice to read about your time there.
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Old Jun 16th, 2013, 11:46 AM
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Arrived in Nice now.
16th June Sunday

Au revoir Lyon et Bonjour Nice.
Decided to take it easy this morning, I had to out of the apt. by 12 so fiddled around, packed, emailed etc. the delightful Daphne came to clean bringing her 6 months old baby... She also owns the apartment.... I left her to it and had my last wander around taking some more photos and then ate my baguette sandwich in the little courtyard below the apt.

I wanted to leave plenty of time to get to the airport so headed off on the metro to the Rhone Express tram that goes directly to the airport. Found the terminus easily enough and there was the tram awaiting. Now here is something you don't see everyday, the conductor was waiting by the ticket vending machines to do it all for you...just hand over the money, even exchanged one of my old notes for a newer note that he said would work better. Can't get better service than that. It wasn't very express to begin with but soon we were zooming along. I don't think they spoilt too much scenery by putting in the tram line!

Arrived at the airport and was pleased to have given myself so much time. The first part is easy enough and then you head into "no frills " territory and have to queue for ages to drop off baggage and then walk and walk and walk. There are three shops in the departure area and they were very excited to mention this when you finally arrive. If you struggle with walking you would need assistance.

Finally boarded and by the time I had given up looking for the non existent put your seat back button we were on descent.

Bussed it into Nice central and was happy I had researched the stops etc cos there wasn't much info on the bus. Apt was located, it is a lovely apartment on rue Barralis, the entry way and stairwell are ghastly, the smell of smoke is truly disgusting. Fortunately I can't smell anything inside except the jasmine on the terrace which is in full bloom and quite overpowering as well. Am I never happy?

Need to get planning for tomorrow, thinking Cap Ferat and Villefranche while the weather forecast is good. Today it is cloudy and cool.... Hmm not allowed in Nice.

Schnauzer
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Old Jun 17th, 2013, 11:52 AM
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The sun is out.....the Nice adventure begins... Hope there are still folk reading this great monologue. Here is today's episode.

17 th June Monday

An interesting night was had... The bottle collection this time at midnight accompanied by caterwauling cats, strange bird noises and the odd jet flying overhead. Hmm, maybe try the A/C tonight.

Needed basics, not much in the apt but a Carrefours was in the next street which was good. Next was breakfast on my terrace, very pleasant.

Wanted to get to Cap Ferat today, couldn't t believe there wasn't a closer bus stop, walked for ages, tried to buy a tram ticket but in the only place you could buy them there was a huge queue with a couple of girls going through what seemed to be their 3 week itinerary hour by hour with the only person serving. (Somebody later told me you could buy them at the distributeur at the tram stop, wish the T.I. had mentioned this detail). Crazy stuff, this is meant to be a tourist town. Found the bus stop easily enough as there was an enormous crowd waiting. One bus came but only half the queue managed to get on, the next bus 81, was actually my preferred bus and I was surprised I got on easily enough and even secured window seat, the bus soon filled up, they make no announcements, the 'tourist' stops aren't highlighted so you haven't got a clue when to get off. Finally I squeezed back to the driver to ask about getting off at the Villa Ephrussi, already gone past, but not to worry he does a circuit back again, I have no idea where everyone else was going as the bus appeared to be on the return route, maybe when everyone landed back in Nice they would realise they too had missed their stops..... All a bit unclear for me.

The Villa was just as amazing as I had hoped, looked around inside which took about an hour and then did the wonderful gardens which also took an hour. There was a water and music show every 20 mins and just as I rounded the last corner it started up. Yay!

Had a salad at the restaurant on the terrace, what a setting! Then I walked into Cap Ferat along the coastal promenade deciding which villa I would buy should one come up for sale... Bus back via Villefranche. Got off and did all the touristy things, very quiet really, I was the ONLY person walking along the rue Obscure which is an ancient, practically completely covered street, a bit creepy really. My feet were really sore and I think I may have walked the comfort out of my sandals. Feet are now soaking in a bowl of iced water.

I need to think about dinner but still not that hungry after my salad. I think my greedy eyes are settling down, not an ice cream or cake has passed my lips for over 24 hours, must be time to rectify that sad state of affairs.
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Old Jun 17th, 2013, 12:50 PM
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Great report schnauzer! I am really enjoying it especially since I haven't been to Nice or Lyon yet.
Sounds like you are really having fun and sure eating well! I think this is a good way to do a trip report, good idea.

I especially liked your use of "not happy Jan", those were the funniest commercials!
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Old Jun 17th, 2013, 01:57 PM
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Hi Schnauzer, I'm so glad you're sharing your journey with us. It's really nice to follow along with you, especially in real time.
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Old Jun 17th, 2013, 02:05 PM
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I finally caught up on this TR today, schnauzer. You have been busy and I am enjoying your travels. You express things in ways that make it easy to feel like I am along for the ride.
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Old Jun 17th, 2013, 02:59 PM
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What a great report. I am really enjoying your trip!
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Old Jun 18th, 2013, 07:13 AM
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Oh no, I've gotten to the end and realized you're still traveling! Hopefully you and your upcoming reports will arrive before I get to the Dordogne the end of June. Meanwhile, I love your writing style. Thanks to you I learned of the Chagall exhibit in Paris which I'd not known about .. and I especially loved reading about your day in Cap Feret. The Villa is one of my favorite memories .. can still see those glorious views, the roses and inside on the particular day I was there, a couple, dressed in their wedding attire "rehearsing" their wedding dance! At least that is what we were told. It made for a storybook moment!
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Old Jun 18th, 2013, 09:10 AM
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Hi all, happy you are still travelling along with me. Hadley, what a great memory for you. I get to Dordogne beginning July after four nights in Averyon - 29- 3rd. Glad you found the Chagall.

Here is today!

18th June Tuesday

On the Buses
Another great day for getting out and about on the Côte d'Azur. Didn't feel like rushing off this morning, spoke to my BF in Sydney for her birthday and chatted to Mum. It is great having the free international phone calls, so I shall make the most of it, the timing isn't the best but it can work.

Eze was the chosen destination for today, a perched village not too far out of Nice. I had been to the T.I. The day before and she (having known where I was staying) had given clear instructions. I caught the tram to a main bus terminal, Vauban, which was a quite a way up town, found the shelter and discovered I needed to wait 35 mins, bah.. took advantage of the wait to try and get a bus map for Nice, this was a main terminus after all.... No such luck, nup don't have any of those, okaaay, how about a time table for the bus I am taking so I know what time it returns? Nup, don't have any of those either, whaat..sorry, have asked but we aren't given any. Sigh...

The bus turns up, half a dozen others are now waiting as well, off we go, well bugger me, where do you think we stop at? Yes, you have guessed it, the same bus stop in town I was at yesterday, OMG, WTF etc. what is wrong with the bods at the T.I. Can i say that on fodors? She sent me there yesterday so why not today. Oh well only wasted an hour out of my precious life. I guess I did get a window seat so that was something at least. We went on the higher Corniche out of town this time which did afford even better views than yesterday, the driver threw the bus around each bend at break neck speed, quite exciting really. Within 20 mins we screeched to a halt at Eze. Checked out and took photo of bus timetable for way home, trying to get smart here.

The village is picture perfect olde worlde vistas at every turn unfortunately with tourists to match. I meandered up and down and finally found a great little place called the Deli for lunch. Salad Nicoise and a coffee. Thought I had worked out the buses, not to be, (of course). Even the french were confused, but a few had managed to work out the system and soon we had a crowd. Before we took off the driver got out and looked at the timetable.... I mean what chance have I when the driver doesn't even know what time he should depart. Under starters orders, we were off racing towards Nice and the good bit was I think we won!

To ease the feet a bit (I had bought some Dr. Scholl pads for my shoes which appeared to have helped) I trammed it to the old town, had a fabulous gelato of coffee and fruits of the forest whilst I aimlessly wandered around. Very touristy and not really my thing, much preferred Lyon old town tbh. Found myself climbing up and up and eventually arrived at the cemetery. Asked some people who were rinsing their hands in the fountain how to get back quickly to the "right end" of the old town, we began to chat - Sue told me I must do this to make some new friends, and one couple had been to Sydney last year, they were pleased that I was speaking french and offered me a lift! Was this taking the new friends thing a bit far, jumping into cars with strangers? Oh well in for a penny, in I got and they very kindly dropped me at Cours Saleya. I didn't quite understand, either the ladies's mother was buried there or she had just been to her funeral. She wasn't crying so hopefully it was the former... I hope so. What lovely people, they didn't invite me home for dinner so that was the end of my new friends.

Getting a tad better with the bus thing and caught one close to my apartment popping into Nicolas for a bottle of rosé, next door for some cheese and a baguette down the road before kicking the shoes off inside.

I will spend tonight studying the bus information.
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Old Jun 18th, 2013, 09:13 AM
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Hi Schnauzer! You're back in Paris! Always a pleasure to read about your adventures. Thanks for taking me along…..
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Old Jun 18th, 2013, 09:20 AM
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Gelato, hellooooooo. I am still using the beautiful message board you gave me, and think of you EVERYTIME I use it and tell the story over and over. No-one can believe how kind and generous you were/are! I did send an Aussie pressie to you I do hope you got it. I was so grateful to you. Glad you are coming along for another holiday with me.

Schnauzer
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Old Jun 18th, 2013, 10:00 AM
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Finding bus/stations can be time-consuming. I do wish it were easier to find all the local bus lines on-line!

Please keep it coming and take care of your feet.
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Old Jun 18th, 2013, 10:59 AM
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TDudette tell me about it, sitting here with maps, timetables etc. trying to work out tomorrow's buses. It would help if one got the right info in the first place eh?
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Old Jun 18th, 2013, 12:24 PM
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Did you go to the TI on the Promenade des Anglais? We picked up several bus schedules there last summer.
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Old Jun 19th, 2013, 11:49 AM
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HT, yes that's where I went the first day... Working it out now, I think.


19th June Wednesday
On the buses part deux

Couldn't get to sleep last night thinking about those blasted bus schedules, anyway up late this morning. Decided to rest my feet so didn't do anything until after lunch. The Museum Marc Chagall was on the agenda and also the Museum Matisse. I was determined to conquer these darn buses and after hours of research worked out the 22 was going to go from almost outside my apartment all the way up to the Marc Chagall Museum, fantastic I thought, anyway asked the driver does this go to Chagall Museum, nah, of course not. You have to go to the terminus and then catch the number 15, of course why didn't I think of that. Anyway as we got to the terminus a 15 pulled up behind us, so things were looking up. However the transit police also got on and issued fines to all those who hadn't validated their tickets, shame they didnt issue bus schedules as well! I got off at the museum and spent the next couple of hours looking at all the great paintings and sketches, there were stained glass windows as well. There was a long film on the life of Marc Chagall which was very interesting and after a brief visit to the shop headed back out to continue up to the Matisse Musee. Hey, finally getting the swing of these buses, no hanging around for hours today.

Instead of going straight into the museum in order to give my artists eyes a break I walked up to the Monastery at Cimiez and discovered the most gorgeous garden, almost hidden from view. Very peaceful and colourful at the same time. There were views back towards Nice but also some not so good views of the 'suburbs'. Walked back through the main garden near the museum to find a small printed sign on the door - due to extraordinary circumstances the museum was closed. Great, so they didn't think to post this on their web site, considering it is a major site and closed for three days. I mean really.... There are posters all over town urging you to go and see this museum. Grrr. Oh well nothing to be done, another day? Back to Place Massena and had a quick look at the shops and found the biggest Monoprix. Bought some dinner as I am preferring to eat in at the moment. After walking all day I just don't feel like going out walking around again for dinner... I know....bussed it back home at least I have learnt how to reduce the walking by quite a bit.

I just love all the amazing facades on the buildings, one gorgeous, glorious old building after the other.

The weather isn't looking great for tomorrow. I was thinking Antibes but will see what the day holds when I wake up.
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Old Jun 19th, 2013, 11:54 AM
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Oh rats about the museum! The garden sounds lovely! DH and I never made to the Chagall museum. We did visit the Russian Orthodox Church--it made me want to see the one in Russia.
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