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Sardinia: Where stay in Santa Teresa Gallura area?

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Sardinia: Where stay in Santa Teresa Gallura area?

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Old Jun 6th, 2011, 03:27 AM
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Surie

Conca Verde is the area that the hotel is located. It is simply the inlet from the hotel (at the head of the inlet down to the village of Porto Pozzo.

Conca Verde is just made up of the hotel and the villas close to it. We have always loved the view from the top of the hill when approaching inlet overlooking the islands.

Good news about the cost of the boats - that price is pretty good. NE Sardinia is famous for over-charging.

I agree about a little boating in any trip, makes for a whole different experience.

I am really pleased you enjoyed the trip, feels a bit like sharing an old friend!
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Old Jun 6th, 2011, 06:50 PM
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That whole area is lovely! I walked around it, but somehow missed the village. Next time! And we really want to go back-- we all loved it.

I'm glad that was reasonable-- it seemed so at the time, and it was something we all wanted to do. The water was too cold for swimming which was too bad because it was so clear and beautiful. I guess it will be perfect when you are there. I hope you will write about this next visit-- I will look forward to it!
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Old Jun 6th, 2011, 07:31 PM
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Surie,
Glad to hear that you loved Sardinia....I am so looking forward to it! And, that the TA reviews didn't fit your experience of La Collucia.
My intinerary has changed so much after starting this post. Now, we're flying into Corsica (from the States thru Paris ) visiting for 2 weeks, then taking the ferry to Santa Teresa. We've booked at the B&B outside of town, Tancamelis for 3 nights, which looks lovely. We'll have to at least have dinner at La Collucia, and we definitely want to take a boat out somehow, but I didn't think we could take one out by ourselves to La Maddelena. Were you able to dock easily on the island?
Then, I've booked 3 nights at Hotel Nuraghe Arvu in Cala Gonone, followed by 2 nights at Il Cagliarese B&B in Cagliari before we fly to Sicily.
I'm going to take one more look at La Collucia based on your comments.
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 03:01 AM
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Surie: Would you mind telling me what month you were there? (wondering about your comments that the water was too cold for swimming..) I have never been to Sardinia but it is near the top of my list for a visit in the future and this thread is extremely helpful. Thanks!
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 09:52 AM
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barefoot

When you visit Cagliari try to make it to one of the restaurants just out of town. I can't remember its name but it is on the coast road out west. It is just on the edge of La Maddalena (village not island) right on the beach. the locals will know it as it is regarded as the best fish restaurant on the island. Best fish we ever had and that includes some very fine competition.

Surie

I am not sure of your location but if you enjoyed lazing around on boats try here...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hope_Town

We sail but with 5 year old it is demanding. We fell on Hopetown by accident. It is the safest and cheapest place on earth to hire boats (no cars). A 22ft boat (much bigger and safer than your RIB in Sardinia, costs $600 a week. The huge inland sea if full of life (sharks, dolphins, turtles etc) and is only 20 ft deep, so any problems with the boat you just throw out the anchor and wait for help. Few rocks just sand. Basically we think it is the world's best sea playground.

Greatest feeling is going out for dinner and speeding home at sunset on a flat calm sea! Shame our transatlantic flights are so expensive this year!

eks

Our 6 Sardinia visits have always been between May and late October. We have never had an issue smimming. In July we had to be in the water as the air temps were just too much. Post Mid September you are playing roulette, we have had 80oF but alos have had rainy 60s but the water still hadn't cooled.

Sardinia still, after a total saturation of southern Europe over 50 years, is fairly unspoilt. It does have a fairly neglected feel on the coast out of season and August is plain silly with half of Rome swamping the island.

We are natural beach lovers not beach slobs (or naturists for that matter!). We feel Sardinia has some of the best seascapes in Europe and some of the warmest Italians around.
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 05:22 PM
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Hi barefoot-- so glad you saw my rave about La Collucia! I was hoping you would return and it's interesting that you are going to Corsica too. What a great trip it sounds like!

My husband loves boating and we have a small motorboat so he was comfortable docking it. My daughter and I thought it might be hard for someone who is not used to it, although if you just go very slowly that makes it easier. There are spots to dock when you go into the port at La Maddelena, (the public ones are on the right along the street-- just bump up and tie up) and good restaurants-- and we found a delicious gelato place. (called something like Dolci Distraitione... not sure of that second word) It was fun to wander around the town. When we were there, there was some boat traffic but it was not busy and I imagine that it gets congested in the summer.

eks-- we just got back so it was mid-May. I jumped off the boat and literally scrambled right back in. I am a bit of a wuss I admit, but it was very cold. Maybe I found the one cold patch in the sea that day! We too loved the beauty of Sardinia and the friendliness of the people. It's the kind of place we would like to spend more time in, and I loved that it was so unspoiled.

humpty-- thank you for the link to Hope Town! I've heard the name and we have spent some time on Harbour Island which we loved in the past. We would like to be on a less busy island, I think, and your description of it and skimming home in the evening was delightful!!

I have to go back and re-read your posts on Sardinia, which I had enjoyed when we were researching. Thanks!
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 08:05 PM
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we are going to be in sardinia for 4 nights. My Italian teacher who is from sardinia suggests we stay at Club Saraceno in Tivoli area on beach. Rooms don't look that great but beach looks nice. She said food is great in the area. I have 2 teens who like the beach and like to shop. Is there shopping nearby?
Would you recommend another hotel or area to stay in?
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Old Jun 8th, 2011, 05:59 AM
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humpty,
Was it LA BOTTEGA DEL MARE ? I asked the proprietor of the B&B we'll be staying and he came up with this name.
I may have to try your recom in the Bahamas...I've avoided them like the plague after a college grad trip to Nassau, which is so unfair, and we live so close (FL) that I really should give the great little islands a try this winter.

Surie, thanks for more on the boat. We've had a boat our entire married life so I think we could handle it if there are easy places to dock. You just never know when you're in a country where you don't speak the language.
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Old Jun 8th, 2011, 11:37 AM
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I am getting excited just reading about your plans! Please write a report on Corsica and Sardinia--two islands that I've never visited and have always been curious about!
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Old Jun 8th, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Hi Barefoot

No it was....

http://eat-drink-man-woman-blog.blog...07-dinner.html

This place was pure theatre and great fun. Just look at the photos. The staff wander round with skewers of grilled eels and you just stop them to grab a skewer. Oh! forgot about the idiosyncrasy. There are no menus!!!! You just tell them what you want from what is lying around the place!

As is usual for most Italian restaurants the Italian reviews range from 5 star bbbbbbbellissimo to please shoot the chef. I think the inconsistencies back up Surie's view of La Collucia v the Italian reviews on TA. I just think at times Italian travellers are a hard bunch to please.

Managed to find it with the wonders of google earth and related web search. It is now becoming a little disconcerting to see the depth of information you can piece together with 20 minutes and an active keyboard. Last weekend we had to track on individual down for land boundary issues. After 20 minutes with google we had their life story, income, house value and their expected life expectancy!

The Bahamas... god help you if you had to endure Nassau. It is a god forsaken place. On our next stopover (even if it is 11 hours) we will not leave Lynden Pindling International Airport. The Out Islands may as well be a million miles aay from Nassau and it really is a shame that the world's view of one of the world's great natural nations is tainted by the image of Nassau. Hopetown is a quiet little, (relatively) undiscovered gem. Do some research and try it out. Many of the cottages have their own docks and most everyone hires a 20ft runaround. Great, safe fun.

Surie

Hopetown is a very shade more downmarket than HI (maybe more laid back is the term). It is still very safe, fun with beautiful seascapes and wildlife. The only downside is the quality of food which can be variable.

Eks

The great thing about both islands (Corscia/Sardinia) is that they are very well served by most of the European low cost flight operators. Sardinia, like Sicily, is also quite unItalian. As I point out frequently they make for a perfect respite from dragging round Florence or Rome in 90oF. A 3 day break on either island makes real sense. Elba is another lovely place and a short ferry ride
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Old Jun 8th, 2011, 07:15 PM
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humpty,
I have to clean my own fish?!!!! Thank God I have a fisherman husband because while I love seafood, I apologize for being squeamish with regard to eating it and definitely prefer it filleted with no skin, bones, head or tail to tanker with. And eels are not even close to appearing on my plate. It sounds like a great place though....and thanks so much for your computer skills in unearthing it's name and location.

Eks, I'll be sure to write a trip report. It's the least I can do to repay all the great information I get from fellow Fodorites. And Corsica and Sardinia seem to be lacking in the trip report area.
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Old Jun 27th, 2011, 12:17 PM
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barefoot

Just been doing some research this looks great for an evening meal. We are off to Sardinia in 3 weeks.


http://www.agriturismosaltara.it/
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Old Jun 28th, 2011, 05:14 AM
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Thanks humpty! I've printed out the info and will definitely have a meal there! Have a wonderful time in Sardinia! Look forward to your future report that I"m sure will have more great suggestions.
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Old Jun 28th, 2011, 02:32 PM
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I know you've already booked your places to stay, but my mother and I stayed at Hotel Le Dune in Arbus which is on the SW coast. It is right on the beach and pretty remote (7km dirt road to get there from Ingurtosu). We were the only guests there in March of 2001 but we had a lovely time. I kind of felt like I might be in an Agatha Christie novel or something - just us and the crashing waves and the single waiter . The hotel is housed in old mine buildings and is very pretty. http://leduneingurtosu.it/

Also, we stayed in Oliena at the Enis Monte Maccione which is high up on a hill above the town. The views are wonderful and it makes a good base for exploring the area around Dorgali. http://www.coopenis.it/

We loved Sardinia (so un-Italian!) aside from the pizza which was miserable - our previous trip had been to Sicily which has wonderful pizza. The rest of the food was delicious.
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Old Jun 28th, 2011, 05:30 PM
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Thanks telechick,
I'm sure others will benefit from your recommendations. I will be sure to avoid the pizza!!!
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Old Oct 16th, 2011, 09:12 AM
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Barefoot: I am so curious about your trip to Sardinia. Did you go and if so, can you give us some impressions and recommendations?? Thanks!!
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Old Oct 16th, 2011, 10:37 AM
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I'm not Barefoot but we spent 10 days in Sardinia in September staying in Olbia, Castelsardo, Alghero and Cala Gonone. I'm happy to post more detail if anyone is interested.
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Old Oct 16th, 2011, 10:59 AM
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Frances I am very interested! An article in today's NYTimes prompted me to again consider Sardinia for a future trip. Please give us any details that you care to share!!


http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/10/16...tml?ref=travel
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Old Oct 16th, 2011, 11:08 AM
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ekscrunchy,
just got back but have to strongly recommend a small B&B "Tancamelis" that's just up from Marmorata beach, near Santa Teresa di Gallura. Check out their website www.tancamelis.it/dintorni.php?lang=en to see how charming it is. Deb makes lovely breakfasts with organic produce from her garden. Close enough to drive into Santa Teresa for dinner and also to visit the fantastic spread at Agriturismo Saltara, up in the hills abour 20 min away.
We also liked Hotel Nuraghe Arvu, up above Cala Golone, where you can rent zodiacs and cruise the incredibly beautiful Gulfo Orosei. For a budget option in Cagliari, centrally located with a very helpful host, try the B&B "Il Caligarese".
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Old Oct 16th, 2011, 01:00 PM
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Our visit to Sardinia was not foreseen three months in advance at which stage we were looking at Calabria/ Basilicata or failing that a return to Puglia where we'd had a super-duper 10 days in September 2010.
However a call from our daughter who had managed to book flights to Olbia from Bristol for about £40 each just sowed the seed which grew. About three years ago I made a list of the next places I wanted to go to- having been to all of those "must-see " places which were safe and being aware that at 55 I have less time left than has gone! Sardinia was on that list....and we wanted a Med holiday in September-its called a "No-brainer"!
We booked to spend a week by ourselves before our daughter and husband came out- then five days together, then we would return leaving them there. They didn't want to spend a lot and so wanted to camp. I didn't mind.
We needed a car which would take four of us comfortably although we didn't think we'd be touring in it. By now Our daughter had decided they wanted to stay at Cala Gonone and had found an Agritourismo "Nuraghe Mani". This also had cabins where my husband and myself were going to stay-we've done our camping!
We flew out of Bristol-a very user friendly airport. We are more used to Manchester. The car parking in silver zone was a doddle and very quick. We flew Easyjet and were at the airport quite early having travelled the last 100 miles or so that day but as we were coming through the Brynglas Tunnels which had been closed because of a fire only a few weeks before, we left plenty of time.
We arrived in Olbia on time and came out of the controlled area of the airport to try and find our car hire desk. A Rep approached me and asked what I was looking for and when she saw the name of the car hire consolidator which I had in my hand she said there was a very long queue at this desk. It was "Travel Jigsaw". She was right! We went in to the building which housed the Car Hire desks and as we went through the door we hit the back of a queue which curled around the middle of the room and over to the top right hand side.Yes, it was ours! It was the same desk as Alamo and ours which was Auto-Europe.
We stood there for about 20 minutes in which time only one person was dealt with. On looking at our info and booking confirmation we saw that they closed at 10pm and it was now 8.50. We estimated that there were about 35 people in front of us. We both came to the conclusion that this being Italy, they would just close at 10 regardless of how many people were still waiting. This would have infuriated us and we were also looking forward to our first meal in Sardinia. We were booked to stay in the Hotel Mercure in Olbia that night and so I suggested we should come back for the car the next day. I said I'd go up to the desk and ask if this was O.K. It was. They endorsed our booking confirmation to say so and off we went.
We initially thought of getting a taxi but feeling successful because we'd avoided the interminable queue we decided to see if we could get a bus and we did.
As it happened there were two other couples on the bus who were also going to the same hotel and so we all looked for it together.
The bus dropped us off where the railway line crosses the main road and we then had to cross the line and walk up the other side. We had seen the hotel over to the left before this and but for the bus driver telling us which way to go we'd have walked back the way we came and then been unable to cross the railway line.
The hotel wa svery nice . We were very hot indeed by the time we got there and the air-conditioning was very welcome.
We dropped our bags and set off looking for a restaurant, very happily setting down in Il Gambero. We sat outside trying pane carascu the local bread-which was never after this as good as in this restaurant . The bread is wafer thin and very nibblababble but here it was also brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with salt. The one(other)thing that I remember that I ate was a platter of smoked tuna and swordfish. Its almost worth flying to Olbia just for that!
The town felt safe and we slept very well indeed which is the exception for a first night. We had a massive bed and joked that it would have done for the family of four- which is how many of us used to travel when our children were at home.
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