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Sardinia: Where stay in Santa Teresa Gallura area?

Sardinia: Where stay in Santa Teresa Gallura area?

Old Mar 25th, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Sardinia: Where stay in Santa Teresa Gallura area?

Hi,
I've exhausted trip advisor and guidebooks and nothing is hitting me as the place to stay in this area. We'll probably be there 4-5 nights and use it as a base, with a car, to see the area. I'd prefer a smaller, boutique type place with charm and a view of the sea. Any ideas? We'll be landing at Olbia airport from Rome (after flying from the States) and then departing on the ferry to Corsica for about a week and a half. On the return, we'll drive down to Cagliari, visiting the Cala Gonone or Santa Maria Navesse area on the way down.

I also want to spend a night or two in the mountains. Would Castelsardo, Tempio Pausania or Oliena be a better option

Thanks for your help!
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Old Mar 28th, 2011, 11:09 AM
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topping
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Old Mar 28th, 2011, 12:24 PM
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Hotel Capo D'Orso is a good solid option which is a little further south.

There is an incredible "design" hotel 6 miles down the road from Santa Teresa in Conca Verde (where we usually stay).

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_R..._Sardinia.html

The hotel is a far up the scale in design terms as you can get. However, from the reviews on tripadvisor the management have a lot to be desired.

The problem with this specific area is that most people (like us) rent houses. The higher end hotels are concentrated further south on the Costa Smeralda. It may be worth trying that area for up market hotels - there are many.
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Old Mar 28th, 2011, 05:42 PM
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thanks humptynumpty,
I'll look into the Capo D'Orso. I read the reviews on La Coluccia and they are basically terrible....more than just management problems. Is Baiea Sardinia an option? I've heard such terrible things about Costa Smeralda I really don't want to stay there. I'd look at villas or homes but they probably want a week.
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Old Mar 29th, 2011, 06:25 AM
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barefoot

La Coluccia - we don't stay there but in the villas in the same bay. The hotel is such a shame, with good management it could have been one of Europe's great small hotels. The location is so good.

Baia Sardinia does have some very good hotels but I am not keen on the resort itself. It is a little soulless.

Who or what gave you the impression that the Costa Smeralda is terrible? It is one of the most exclusive areas of Italy, if not Europe. There are many hotels there, many are upwards of e500 a night, some run into e000s a night.

Cala Di Volpe is our favourite spot in Europe.

http://www.hotelcapriccioli.it/capriccioli/index.php

Is reasonable (ish) but has a wonderful restaurant.

Costa Smeralda is high side for prices, exclusive and very busy in August but terrible... not sure who gave you that idea.

Bit like saying a Ferrari is terrible because you can't get the shopping in!
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Old Mar 29th, 2011, 06:49 AM
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I've read magazine articles (National Geo Traveler) and other poster's reports that it's a very artificial, soulless place....not to mention exceedingly expensive. So, since I"m not a Saudi princess or a Wall Street broker/banker, I need somewhere more reasonably priced...and somewhere that reflects the essence of Sardinia better.

I did look at Capriccioli, which looks nice, but I was thinking i should stay nearer St. Teresa because it seemed like there was more to explore around there. I'll take another look at Capriccioli. I know i can stay at a modest hotel in town Santa Teresa, but that's not really what I envisioned...want to see the water.

I will go visit Costa Smeralda though...want to see all those yachts!
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Old Mar 29th, 2011, 07:53 AM
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The National Geo article has been mentioned here before.

I would use their articles as a basis for backpacking round Mongolia. I have absolutely no idea why they would choose to review Sardinia's north east coast. They wouldn't review West Palm Beach so why bother with The Costa Smeralda.

I am no film star but have been to a few of life's high life hot spots and have only really been aware of being out of my league in Bal Harbour which was simply ridiculous.

The great thing about the Italians holidaying on Sardinia is that they become a little more laid back. I wouldn't discount The Costa Smeralda on the basis of out of context articles.

Hotel Capriccioli is where James Bond's Lotus Esprit came out of the sea! The beaches are approaching those in the Caribbean which is unusual for Europe. I would consider it if it is in your price range.

I am aware that there are some nice hotels being built on the Maddalena islands but I am not sure if they are operational.

I do sympathise as we went through the same issues with hotels near Santa Teresa for years. We simply gave up and rented villas. La Coluccia was our shining hope when we saw it being built, unfortunately it clearly hasn't lived up the promise its design indicated.

How about ?

http://www.hotelcaladilepre.com/sardinia/index.html

Not a very local feel but again a good location. I don't know it but it is close to Palau and Santa Teresa.
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Old Mar 29th, 2011, 07:54 AM
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Did you see these threads; they mention Santa Teresa:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...to-corsica.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...inia-again.cfm

I remember them because I am longing to go there someday!
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Old Mar 29th, 2011, 07:56 AM
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ps your are on the right track with Santa Teresa. We love it as it does have the best location possible for trips out and it does have a local population ie some soul.

It has a bit of a frontier town feel as many long distance yachties who aren't the sort to own multi national corporations stop off. Those that do own multi nationals head for Porto Cervo.
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Old Mar 29th, 2011, 08:08 AM
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eks

3 months to go!

http://www.evholidays.co.uk/images/sardina.jpg

ps I was markrosy before the summer of discontent last year. I pointed out the truth once to often to one of our more pretentious posters and the powers that be didn't appreciate it!
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Old Mar 29th, 2011, 03:45 PM
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Just call me frustrated! I have spent another day trying to sort Sardinia out....using the Rough Guide, Footprint, DK Eyewitness and Insight Guides, plus magazine articles....and balancing all against Fodor's Forum and TripAdvisor...I still am not totally satisfied with my decision.

humptynumpty, that is so funny that you had to change from being markrosy! I've read a lot of your posts and know you hate Sicily! Cala di Lepre has also gotten terrible reviews from TA...unless you're a family with small children, which we're not.

ekscrunchy, thanks for the links and I have read them before. It's ironic that I finally decided to stay at Hotel Marinaro, which was sited. But, it doesn't "warm my soup" but seems like the best alternative. I really didn't want to stay at an in town hotel. I'm still thinking about Hotel Capriccioli though.

I have narrowed it down to how much time I want to spend in Sardinia. 8days. We're also going to Corsica, Sicily and the Aeolian Islands...and I'm trying to do this in a month (or 5 weeks max). To tell you the truth, I'm very disappointed in what I'm reading about Sardinian lodging....there doesn't seem to be much cost/value here. I was hoping to find a small, charming boutique hotel with simple but classy furnishings with a sea-view terrace.

So, after we arrive in Olbia, we're going to drive to Santa Teresa and stay 3 nights at the Hotel Marinaro and then take day trips to see either the Maddalena Islands or Cala Volpe, and Castelsardo, and of course, Capo Testa. (unless we decide on Hotel Cappricioli). Then go to Corsica for two weeks and return on the ferry. Then, drive down to either Cala Gonone or Santa Maria Navaresse for 3 nights, then drive to Cagliari for two nights and fly to Sicily.

I really need to work out how many nights in each island so I can book flights. I'm worried because a lot of places already are booked in September.

If anyone has a better idea, please let me know! I'm starting to regret my decision to go here!
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Old Mar 29th, 2011, 07:30 PM
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Barefoot

After many years, I am sure of one thing.

For some destinations you need a good hotel for various reasons. Maybe the local environment is so chaotic that you need somewhere to hide for some piece and quiet. Sardinia just isn't one of those places. We spend most of our waking hours away from our accommodation as it is very difficult to get an ideal property for less than an absolutely silly price.

In The Out Islands of The Bahamas we rent beach cottages with views that most people wouldn't think existed on the planet. We pay around £1000 a week. A similar property on Sardinia would be £10,000 on Cala Di Vope.

Your trip sounds about the best planned possible for anyone that thrives on seascapes. After spending 100 plus trips to Southern Europe, I can assure you that in my opinion you are covering the best Europe has to offer in one short month.

I would worry in the least about the issue of hotels in Northern Sardinia. As I said before, we have looked for "your hotel" for 10 years and just haven't found it either. Just go and enjoy Sardinia! You are absolutely right about the general value for money in relation to hotels. They just don't offer good sandards and those that do charge huge amounts as the seasons are so short.

Sicily, hate is a strong word.

I develop 300 year properties in a place where you need planning permission to breathe. I have spent 40 years travelling to places where you need planning permission to get up in the morning. I think what we found suprising about Sicily were two things. The total disregard to any structured planned development over the past 150 years left many areas totally ramshackled.

We spent many an hour photographing buildings that still make us giggle. Just about anything seemed possible with "a fist full of dollars" and knowledge of the right public official. Some of the older Baroque architecture is noteworthy but so is most of the architecture on the roads where we own houses.

Second issue with Sicily was the "culture" of the Sicilians which is very different to Northern Italians. Just different.

With a compare and contrast, following 10 odd visits to Tuscany, we would head back to Tuscany in future.

In short, Sicily interesting but hard work (IMO).
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Old Mar 30th, 2011, 06:29 AM
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humptynumpty,
I have to thank you for such a well thought out and detailed response. And, I had to smile, because my husband says exactly the same thing when I carelessly use the word "hate".

I was frustrated because my reason for going to Sardinia is for a beautiful beach environment but I selfishly wanted to enjoy the views from my terrace...not having to drive to it. I just have to change my mindset. I'm also considering Monti di Mola, a small hotel inland near Porto Cervo which receives excellent reviews in TA.

I'm not planning to visit Alghero...is this a mistake?

My other new thought this morning is to cut out Corsica completely...as this trip is getting to be 5 weeks. I still would go over for a day trip to Bonifacio.
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Old Mar 30th, 2011, 07:04 AM
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In short, try and fit Alghero in, if you can.

There are a number of small seafaring cities that stand out in Europe. Coincidentally, one of them is Siracusa on Sicily. They have a frontier feel about them, places where in the past, the sea and trade have been more important than national cultures.

Alghero has good architecture, although not as imposing as Cagliari or Siracusa. In my experience, the people are as friendly as those on the remote Greek islands, which is a huge compliment. Due to the history of the city, there is a definite Spanish influence both in the culture and food.

It is a fairly easy drive along the coast and you can combine it with a detour to Stintino (again a Caribbean beach) and the impressive caves at Capo Caccia.

http://www.shardanas.net/images/sfondi/capocaccia.jpg

This produces a great day trip from Santa Teresa.

Corsica : is one of the few areas of The Med that we haven't made it to. We were going this July but I simply gave up trying to find half decent rentals for less than £4000 a week. The research just wasn't paying off considering that we had our little certainties just outside Santa Teresa.

We are planning a day trip on the car ferry this summer (from Santa Teresa).

From all you have said, I really would consider Hotel Capriccioli. Cala Di Volpe is my favourite 5 miles of coast in Europe and the food at the hotel is great. The Hotel Cala Di Volpe next door runs into £000s a night. Two years ago we stayed here :

http://www.residenzacapriccioli.com/

it was clean and that was about it. We frequently ate at the Hotel Capriccioli, it was lovely with views to die for.
Cala Di Volpe headland has a strange geography in that there are around five beaches which all face a different point of the compass. Point being that if it is windy, there is always a calm beach a short walk away.

The downside being that you are a long way from anything that could be classed as "local" culture.

ps I would never discourage anyone from visiting Sicily, just make them aware that it is a long way from the mainland (metaphorically).

pps you should know by now that half the fun of travel is the trail and tribulation of planning. If we are not on a plan we are usually on the internet planning a trip!
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Old Mar 30th, 2011, 08:36 AM
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humptynumpty, thanks again for more great info. I couldn't find any reviews by people who stayed at Hotel Capriccioli so I appreciate hearing that they do have good food since they make you take half board. My most promising option now in Santa Teresa is B&B Domus de Janus, so I need to choose between the two areas.

That photo is stunning! If we go to Alghero, I thought we should stay overnight since it's a longish drive. I would also like to see Bosa. Funny you mention Siracusa because that's of the few places we're staying overnight in Sicily (also Salina Island, Taormina and Palermo)

For some reason, this planning is taking longer than usual. But, I spent a good part of it on Corsica.
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Old Apr 18th, 2011, 01:54 AM
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In Santa Teresa di Gallura, I stayed at Hotel Marinaro which was great. Great value, nice, clean, friendly, right in town.
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Old Apr 19th, 2011, 01:36 PM
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Thanks HowdyFrom,
That does look like a good option, but I'm trying to stay at Tancamelis B&B nearby...looks wonderful but I may not get all the nights I wanted...so either, I could stay at Marinaro or move on and spend 3 nights in the Cala Gonone area.
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Old Jun 4th, 2011, 06:34 PM
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Hi barefootbeach-- I just saw your thread and I may be too late, but I just spent a week in Sardinia and loved it. We flew to Olbia from Rome as you said you will be doing, rented a car and drove to La Collucia. I wanted to let you know that we (my husband, 20's daughter and I) all loved it. I had seen those reviews on TA and was worried but we had such a wonderful experience. It's a lovely place and every employee was so nice and helpful, friendly, etc. We stayed 3 nights and it is very relaxed and quiet. One of the fun things for us was renting a small motorboat (from the hotel's beach) and going to La Maddelena to poke around and have lunch. The islands and the sea are gorgeous, and being able to get out in a boat was fun. I would be happy to answer any questions-- we really loved the island and our stay at la Collucia.
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Old Jun 5th, 2011, 11:52 AM
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Surie

I am sincerely pleased to see your comments.

We usually stay in villas at Conca Verde (we don't like hotels) but were really pleased when La Collucia opened. we haven't eaten there but to us it offers a great option for dining.

We are visiting again in July for two weeks. Glad to see that somebody enjoyed their stay as the TA reviews are truely awful. This didn't make sense as the design and location of the hotel is up there with the best in Europe. It just didn't make sense that the owners would tolerate the poor management of what is clearly a substantial investment.

How much were the boats to hire?

thanks
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Old Jun 5th, 2011, 01:48 PM
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Hi humpty-- I asked my husband as I can't remember and he says it was about 150E for the day; it may have been a little more. We went out 2 days and the second day we rented one of the new boats which was even nicer. It added a dimension to our stay.

If you go for dinner, it would be fun to go early and have a drink at the bar first. In the late afternoon they put out a nice bunch of hors d'oeuvre and the guests can nibble. It's very pleasant with a lot of comfortable places to sit, outside and in. I'm so glad you are giving it a chance. My daughter had done the planning so I didn't want to chime in against it after reading TA, and I was happy that those reviews seemed so off-base.

Where is Conca Verde?
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