Santorini Trip Report -- Spring 2005
May 7th, 2005, 10:21 AM
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Santorini Trip Report -- Spring 2005
Just got back yesterday from a wonderful week in Oia, the most beautiful village of Santorini. We loved Greece so much we’re already planning a second trip next Spring. Thank you to all of the Fodorites for your wonderful trip advice, especially Brotherleelove! I know my manners, so I’m repaying all the wonderful advice with some recommendations of my own. My report is a little heavy on restaurants/food since we didn’t “do” much of anything other than eat, drink, read, and enjoy the view!
I’ll post this in multiple parts for easier readability.
Part 1: HOTEL
We arrived in Oia around 10PM and everything was very dark. We trusted that our room had a good view, and we were amply rewarded. Opening the shutters the first morning was like opening the best gift EVER, and it made me so happy I was giggling at my good fortune of staying in Oia.
We stayed at Esperas and had room 106, a traditional house. It was advertised as having a private terrace, but it was semi-private and separated from room 105’s terrace by lattice. This was not a problem since we did not have neighbors in room 105 until the last two nights of our weeklong stay. The terrace was small and had an umbrella, café table, 2 chairs, and an amazing view. The room was very sparsely decorated, but very traditional, quaint, and very clean. The only downside to our room was the location directly above the cleaning and kitchen areas – this resulted in constant noise (washing machine, etc) as we sat out on our terrace.
Breakfast at Esperas was very good – small selection of meats, cheese, bread, hardboiled eggs, and cereal. But the best thing was the fresh yogurt with the honey from Crete. We ate this every day (with a little muesli on top) and never tired of it.
Very good service – everyone was very friendly, especially Yvonne. She helped arrange for restaurant reservations and car rental and always took the time every morning to greet us and ask if we were enjoying our stay. She also helped us get back the binoculars we left in the rental car -- they were even delivered to us less than 10 minutes after we asked her for her help.
We paid for our stay with USD travelers checks and received a 10% discount for doing so. Yvonne charged us the standard bank commission rate of 2%, but it still was a good deal.
We enjoyed hanging out with the cat who lives at Esperas, Harry. He is quite friendly and plopped himself on my husband’s chest or lap whenever we were hanging out by the pool. He’s a bit of a drooler (Harry, not my husband), so watch out. He liked us enough to come running across the roof to our room when I would call him from our terrace, and it was nice to have a loaner cat while our own kitties were abandoned back in the States.
The pool area at Esperas is very nice. There are many loungers available as well as small café tables that seat 4. Esperas does serve snacks and light dinners, but we did not partake of either.
Tip: There is a shortcut from Esperas down to the beach at Ammoudi. Simply follow the Esperas steps all the way down, then hike the little path by the old church. The path will bisect the stairs leading down from the Venetian Castle about halfway. This is great when the sun is out, but do not attempt in the dark. The bartender pointed out the way, so ask him if you want to double check the directions.
I’ll post this in multiple parts for easier readability.
Part 1: HOTEL
We arrived in Oia around 10PM and everything was very dark. We trusted that our room had a good view, and we were amply rewarded. Opening the shutters the first morning was like opening the best gift EVER, and it made me so happy I was giggling at my good fortune of staying in Oia.
We stayed at Esperas and had room 106, a traditional house. It was advertised as having a private terrace, but it was semi-private and separated from room 105’s terrace by lattice. This was not a problem since we did not have neighbors in room 105 until the last two nights of our weeklong stay. The terrace was small and had an umbrella, café table, 2 chairs, and an amazing view. The room was very sparsely decorated, but very traditional, quaint, and very clean. The only downside to our room was the location directly above the cleaning and kitchen areas – this resulted in constant noise (washing machine, etc) as we sat out on our terrace.
Breakfast at Esperas was very good – small selection of meats, cheese, bread, hardboiled eggs, and cereal. But the best thing was the fresh yogurt with the honey from Crete. We ate this every day (with a little muesli on top) and never tired of it.
Very good service – everyone was very friendly, especially Yvonne. She helped arrange for restaurant reservations and car rental and always took the time every morning to greet us and ask if we were enjoying our stay. She also helped us get back the binoculars we left in the rental car -- they were even delivered to us less than 10 minutes after we asked her for her help.
We paid for our stay with USD travelers checks and received a 10% discount for doing so. Yvonne charged us the standard bank commission rate of 2%, but it still was a good deal.
We enjoyed hanging out with the cat who lives at Esperas, Harry. He is quite friendly and plopped himself on my husband’s chest or lap whenever we were hanging out by the pool. He’s a bit of a drooler (Harry, not my husband), so watch out. He liked us enough to come running across the roof to our room when I would call him from our terrace, and it was nice to have a loaner cat while our own kitties were abandoned back in the States.
The pool area at Esperas is very nice. There are many loungers available as well as small café tables that seat 4. Esperas does serve snacks and light dinners, but we did not partake of either.
Tip: There is a shortcut from Esperas down to the beach at Ammoudi. Simply follow the Esperas steps all the way down, then hike the little path by the old church. The path will bisect the stairs leading down from the Venetian Castle about halfway. This is great when the sun is out, but do not attempt in the dark. The bartender pointed out the way, so ask him if you want to double check the directions.
May 7th, 2005, 10:30 AM
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I forgot to mention the view of the sunset, which was spectacular. While hoardes of folks lined up on the streets and at the Venetian castle, we sat out by the pool with fruity drinks, a deck of cards, and a LOT of patience. The view of the sunset is fantastic and unobstructed. I wouldn't dream of joining the crowds when we were able to have it all to ourselves at Esperas.
May 7th, 2005, 11:48 AM
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Part 2: FOOD
Ahhhh…food. It’s a good thing there are so many stairs in Oia, otherwise I would have brought back more than the 4 pounds I ended up with. Whoops. I eat mostly vegetables but also eat chicken or lobster. Strict vegetarians shouldn’t have a problem anywhere and could very easily (or happily) make a meal out of appetizers if you have to. I’m including prices (probably to my husband’s horror) so you can get an idea of budget.
One my favorite things about restaurants in Oia – complimentary Vin Santo after your meal! Every restaurant we ate offered us free vin santo. It’s basically Greece’s version of Port (sweet dessert wine) and is very sweet but very tasty. This was a very nice touch to end our meals.
**DINING IN OIA**
CANDOUNI: My favorite restaurant for both food and service, and we ate here twice. This place is off the main road and therefore is harder to find and has no view. From Esperas, walk on the main village road and then take a left at the bell tower. You can also reach it by following signs to Karma – Candouni is a bit past Karma. The terrace is beautifully decorated, and the inside dining room is also lovely. The owner spent time in Canada and is so incredibly friendly and fun to engage in conversation. They happily showed us pictures taken last year of Matt Damon and Angelina Jolie dining in their restaurant (not together of course), and they also boast the best bathroom in Oia. They also have the sweetest kitty in Oia named Didi (don't tell Harry).
The first time we had roasted layered eggplant, grilled Haloumi cheese, veal wrapped with bacon and served with béarnaise, lavender chicken breast with mustard sauce, amazing grilled veggies (baby corn were amazing), red wine, and homemade almond cake with strawberry ice cream for 96Euros.
The second time we had grilled Haloumi cheese, mushrooms on crouton (with soft cheese mousse and dill on top), fried perch fillet with coconut milk and curry sauce (served with rice and cauliflower mousse – divine), penne with vegetables and chicken in a white cream sauce (served with peppers, sundried tomato, leek and garlic) and Sigalas red wine for 77Euros. Best meal of the trip! Towards the end of our dinner we felt more like friends than customers, and it was hard to leave. We will be back!
KASTRO: Very near the Venetian castle. We ate here for lunch twice. View is fantastic – they advertise an unobstructed view of the sunsets, and reservations at that time of day are required. We didn’t have dinner here because the restaurant is somewhat unprotected – evenings brought chilly winds so our evening picks had more cover. Kastro wins for the best (IMO) appetizer award: Stuffed Olives. Take giant olives, stuff them with cream cheese, dip them in beer, wrap them in dough, fry them, eat them, gain 2 pounds. Repeat. Our meals here averaged 39Euros and always included an appetizer or two, a salad, a main, and either beer or sangria. Over the course of our two lunches we enjoyed the stuffed olives, greek salad, penne with grilled veggies and tomato sauce, and fresh ravioli with cream cheese, arugula, tomato, feta, and basil.
KATINA’S (Ammoudi Beach): The Esperas bartender said that the Sunset Taverna and Katina’s were basically the same, but I chose Katina’s based on Europhile’s trip report (thank you!). Our dinner was just as expensive as restaurants in Oia because we chose the lobster – 70Euros per kg. We shared a fried melted tomato appetizer, one lobster, chocolate cake with pistachio, and a bottle of red wine for 105Euros. The lobster was absolutely gigantic, and its feelers were sticking straight out of the grill – very entertaining watching the grillmaster at work. The people at Katina’s were so friendly and treated us to the chocolate cake. It was chilly and one of the men working there offered me a big wooly sweater. We also were amused by a VERY tall Swedish looking man who had his picture taken in front of the Greek flag with one of the women working at the restaurant. We opted for the LONG walk back up to Oia in lieu of a taxi…the stairs are a bit of a challenge, especially after a bottle of wine.
AMBROSIA & NECTAR: Used to be Oia’s Café (I think). So good we ate here twice. The view is a bit obstructed, but the restaurant is so beautiful it doesn’t really matter. We ate outside both times, and even though it was chilly, it was not too cold. The décor reminded me of restaurants in Miami – lots of white. Very simple table decorations – white tablecloths, candles, and a flower – but gorgeous.
First time we had tzatziki, roasted white eggplant (layered with white cheese, tomato, and olive oil), chicken medallions (served with tagliatelle, 3 kinds of peppers, crème fraiche, and a touch of curry), beef filet (with caramelized onions, rice, and a white wine sauce), a bottle of red wine (Lazardis winery?), chocolate walnut cake with vanilla ice cream, and cappuccino. This meal was 111Euros.
Second time we had fava, caramelized onion and leek tart, Napoleon (layered dish consisting of beef, cheese, chicken, cheese, pork, more cheese, tomato and veggies), chicken roulade (YUM – stuffed with cheese and served with eggplant puree and sundried tomatos), panna cotta with chocolate sauce and blackberries, red wine and 2 cappuccinos for 85Euros. We enjoyed our second meal even better than the first – both dishes were fantastic. The price difference between the 2 meals was due to our wine selection. We had a cheaper but better bottle of wine (Sigalas winery) the second night thanks to the great advice of the restaurant.
MELENIOS: Best bakery in Oia! It’s located on the main street and has an upstairs terrace as well as a bakery for “to go” orders below. We had drinks at Melenios several times thanks to their amazing view and large menu. On two occasions we picked up items below for picnics on our terrace. I highly recommend the spinach pie, baklava, and chocolate soufflé (the latter two we enjoyed for a measly 5Euros total). Prices upstairs on the terrace are twice that of the bakery prices for to go orders. This place is a gem.
AMBROSIA: We ate here for Easter Sunday dinner. Excellent food and super friendly service. We had the corner table upstairs and outside and were protected from the chilly wind. Similar décor to Ambrosia and Nectar – gorgeous restaurant and gorgeous view. We enjoyed the Ambrosia tart of carmelized onions (with feta and tomato), roasted white eggplant layered with cheese, tagliatelle (with 3 peppers, fresh mushroom, courgette, carrot, soya, and white wine sauce), traditional Easter lamb stuffed with herbs and feta, tiramisu, and red wine for 132Euros. I amused myself by watching the honeymooners from Australia attempt to eat the traditional Easter soup – I think they were surprised to find that it contained lamb innards and possibly feet.
SKIZA: Great for a drink break. Nice size menu with lots of frappe options (we had ours with kahlua or bailey’s) and good selection of tasty sounding vittles (pizza, salad, waffles, crepes). Nice view and a great place to hang out.
**DINING IN FIRA**
SENOR ZORBA’S: Had to try this place based on mentions here. It was a 5 minute, 5Euro fare from the Fira taxi stand, and the restaurant called a taxi for our return. The outside dining area was closed, so we ate inside. Had margaritas (would not get them next time – too watery), a chicken chimichanga, and a chicken enchilada. We sat outside with giant mugs of Mythos while waiting for our taxi to take us back to Oia. I forgot to write the price down, but I believe it was around 50Euros. It was surprisingly very good and the view is fantastic.
FRANCO’S BAR: Yes, the tropical drinks average around 14Euros, but you’re also paying for the ambience. We went twice and each time had Pina Coladas and Singapore Slings. The Singapore Sling was the best 14Euro drink that my husband ever spilled on our digital camera (doh!). The view from Franco’s is incomparable, and the classical music just enhances the whole atmosphere. Franco’s is open from 12-12.
NIKOLAS TAVERNA: Eat here for lunch!!! Very entertaining and extremely delicious. Two men were working out front while I spotted 2 women working in the kitchen – food tasted better than homemade. One of the guys was a bit reminiscent of the Soup Nazi from Seinfeld. Wow. One unfortunate (and rude) man made the mistake of using the bathroom and not eating there, and he was promptly tossed out of the establishment. Don’t let this be you. The menu is written on a chalkboard in Greek, but they are recited in English (or French, and probably German too). Best bread we ate the whole week, greek salad, baked eggplant, pastiticio, beer, and water for 21Euros. They also serve lamb with lemon, artichoke with lemon sauce (looked incredible), roast chicken, fried or grilled calamari, grilled shrimp, stuffed tomato and pepper, mousaka, tzatziki, and fava.
**THE BEACHES**
The Nets: We ate here at the recommendation of Esperas. It’s located on the black beach of Vlihada. The menu was entirely in Greek, so our waiter just told us what they served. Very traditional fish tavern fare included fish balls, grilled octopus, boneless grilled fish filet, greek salad, etc. We ate fava dip, fried tomato balls (I love these things), Santorini Salad (beware the surprise anchovy) and some spicy pepper dish that was baked in a little clay pot with feta and tomato. With 2 Mythos the bill came to 28Euros. We were treated to a tasty little dessert courtesy of the restaurant, and it remains a mystery that maybe someone can solve. It had the texture of cornmeal, was served cold, was flavored with honey and cinnamon and cut into little squares…tasty and mysterious!
Chili Bar: Obviously a happening beach hang out. We hang with the uber cool beach crowd for a while and nursed the tastiest Pina Coladas on our trip.
**OTHER**
1800: Advertised a May 5 opening but changed their minds and opened May 3. Extensive and expensive menu, and very large wine list. We were told that is was “no big loss” to miss an evening here – said dinner here was almost twice that of Ambrosia and not as good.
Santorini Mou, I Love You: Yvonne at Esperas said that we should go here for a completely different experience. It’s a pink building located on the road leading out of Fira. It’s on the left right before the road starts winding to Fira. She said that it’s a bit of a party atmosphere and that the owner sings and plays guitars…and that many people leave drunk. Sounded like a fun evening, but we never made it. It’s about a 25 minute walk from Esperas.
Karma: This place looks beautiful and just opened last year. They were getting ready to reopen this season, so we missed out. Food with an Asian flair.
Koukoumavlos: In Fira. Esperas says this is the best restaurant on the island (and says that Selene used to be the best).
Cantuccio: In Fira. Also recommended by Esperas for a nice Italian meal.
Ahhhh…food. It’s a good thing there are so many stairs in Oia, otherwise I would have brought back more than the 4 pounds I ended up with. Whoops. I eat mostly vegetables but also eat chicken or lobster. Strict vegetarians shouldn’t have a problem anywhere and could very easily (or happily) make a meal out of appetizers if you have to. I’m including prices (probably to my husband’s horror) so you can get an idea of budget.
One my favorite things about restaurants in Oia – complimentary Vin Santo after your meal! Every restaurant we ate offered us free vin santo. It’s basically Greece’s version of Port (sweet dessert wine) and is very sweet but very tasty. This was a very nice touch to end our meals.
**DINING IN OIA**
CANDOUNI: My favorite restaurant for both food and service, and we ate here twice. This place is off the main road and therefore is harder to find and has no view. From Esperas, walk on the main village road and then take a left at the bell tower. You can also reach it by following signs to Karma – Candouni is a bit past Karma. The terrace is beautifully decorated, and the inside dining room is also lovely. The owner spent time in Canada and is so incredibly friendly and fun to engage in conversation. They happily showed us pictures taken last year of Matt Damon and Angelina Jolie dining in their restaurant (not together of course), and they also boast the best bathroom in Oia. They also have the sweetest kitty in Oia named Didi (don't tell Harry).
The first time we had roasted layered eggplant, grilled Haloumi cheese, veal wrapped with bacon and served with béarnaise, lavender chicken breast with mustard sauce, amazing grilled veggies (baby corn were amazing), red wine, and homemade almond cake with strawberry ice cream for 96Euros.
The second time we had grilled Haloumi cheese, mushrooms on crouton (with soft cheese mousse and dill on top), fried perch fillet with coconut milk and curry sauce (served with rice and cauliflower mousse – divine), penne with vegetables and chicken in a white cream sauce (served with peppers, sundried tomato, leek and garlic) and Sigalas red wine for 77Euros. Best meal of the trip! Towards the end of our dinner we felt more like friends than customers, and it was hard to leave. We will be back!
KASTRO: Very near the Venetian castle. We ate here for lunch twice. View is fantastic – they advertise an unobstructed view of the sunsets, and reservations at that time of day are required. We didn’t have dinner here because the restaurant is somewhat unprotected – evenings brought chilly winds so our evening picks had more cover. Kastro wins for the best (IMO) appetizer award: Stuffed Olives. Take giant olives, stuff them with cream cheese, dip them in beer, wrap them in dough, fry them, eat them, gain 2 pounds. Repeat. Our meals here averaged 39Euros and always included an appetizer or two, a salad, a main, and either beer or sangria. Over the course of our two lunches we enjoyed the stuffed olives, greek salad, penne with grilled veggies and tomato sauce, and fresh ravioli with cream cheese, arugula, tomato, feta, and basil.
KATINA’S (Ammoudi Beach): The Esperas bartender said that the Sunset Taverna and Katina’s were basically the same, but I chose Katina’s based on Europhile’s trip report (thank you!). Our dinner was just as expensive as restaurants in Oia because we chose the lobster – 70Euros per kg. We shared a fried melted tomato appetizer, one lobster, chocolate cake with pistachio, and a bottle of red wine for 105Euros. The lobster was absolutely gigantic, and its feelers were sticking straight out of the grill – very entertaining watching the grillmaster at work. The people at Katina’s were so friendly and treated us to the chocolate cake. It was chilly and one of the men working there offered me a big wooly sweater. We also were amused by a VERY tall Swedish looking man who had his picture taken in front of the Greek flag with one of the women working at the restaurant. We opted for the LONG walk back up to Oia in lieu of a taxi…the stairs are a bit of a challenge, especially after a bottle of wine.
AMBROSIA & NECTAR: Used to be Oia’s Café (I think). So good we ate here twice. The view is a bit obstructed, but the restaurant is so beautiful it doesn’t really matter. We ate outside both times, and even though it was chilly, it was not too cold. The décor reminded me of restaurants in Miami – lots of white. Very simple table decorations – white tablecloths, candles, and a flower – but gorgeous.
First time we had tzatziki, roasted white eggplant (layered with white cheese, tomato, and olive oil), chicken medallions (served with tagliatelle, 3 kinds of peppers, crème fraiche, and a touch of curry), beef filet (with caramelized onions, rice, and a white wine sauce), a bottle of red wine (Lazardis winery?), chocolate walnut cake with vanilla ice cream, and cappuccino. This meal was 111Euros.
Second time we had fava, caramelized onion and leek tart, Napoleon (layered dish consisting of beef, cheese, chicken, cheese, pork, more cheese, tomato and veggies), chicken roulade (YUM – stuffed with cheese and served with eggplant puree and sundried tomatos), panna cotta with chocolate sauce and blackberries, red wine and 2 cappuccinos for 85Euros. We enjoyed our second meal even better than the first – both dishes were fantastic. The price difference between the 2 meals was due to our wine selection. We had a cheaper but better bottle of wine (Sigalas winery) the second night thanks to the great advice of the restaurant.
MELENIOS: Best bakery in Oia! It’s located on the main street and has an upstairs terrace as well as a bakery for “to go” orders below. We had drinks at Melenios several times thanks to their amazing view and large menu. On two occasions we picked up items below for picnics on our terrace. I highly recommend the spinach pie, baklava, and chocolate soufflé (the latter two we enjoyed for a measly 5Euros total). Prices upstairs on the terrace are twice that of the bakery prices for to go orders. This place is a gem.
AMBROSIA: We ate here for Easter Sunday dinner. Excellent food and super friendly service. We had the corner table upstairs and outside and were protected from the chilly wind. Similar décor to Ambrosia and Nectar – gorgeous restaurant and gorgeous view. We enjoyed the Ambrosia tart of carmelized onions (with feta and tomato), roasted white eggplant layered with cheese, tagliatelle (with 3 peppers, fresh mushroom, courgette, carrot, soya, and white wine sauce), traditional Easter lamb stuffed with herbs and feta, tiramisu, and red wine for 132Euros. I amused myself by watching the honeymooners from Australia attempt to eat the traditional Easter soup – I think they were surprised to find that it contained lamb innards and possibly feet.
SKIZA: Great for a drink break. Nice size menu with lots of frappe options (we had ours with kahlua or bailey’s) and good selection of tasty sounding vittles (pizza, salad, waffles, crepes). Nice view and a great place to hang out.
**DINING IN FIRA**
SENOR ZORBA’S: Had to try this place based on mentions here. It was a 5 minute, 5Euro fare from the Fira taxi stand, and the restaurant called a taxi for our return. The outside dining area was closed, so we ate inside. Had margaritas (would not get them next time – too watery), a chicken chimichanga, and a chicken enchilada. We sat outside with giant mugs of Mythos while waiting for our taxi to take us back to Oia. I forgot to write the price down, but I believe it was around 50Euros. It was surprisingly very good and the view is fantastic.
FRANCO’S BAR: Yes, the tropical drinks average around 14Euros, but you’re also paying for the ambience. We went twice and each time had Pina Coladas and Singapore Slings. The Singapore Sling was the best 14Euro drink that my husband ever spilled on our digital camera (doh!). The view from Franco’s is incomparable, and the classical music just enhances the whole atmosphere. Franco’s is open from 12-12.
NIKOLAS TAVERNA: Eat here for lunch!!! Very entertaining and extremely delicious. Two men were working out front while I spotted 2 women working in the kitchen – food tasted better than homemade. One of the guys was a bit reminiscent of the Soup Nazi from Seinfeld. Wow. One unfortunate (and rude) man made the mistake of using the bathroom and not eating there, and he was promptly tossed out of the establishment. Don’t let this be you. The menu is written on a chalkboard in Greek, but they are recited in English (or French, and probably German too). Best bread we ate the whole week, greek salad, baked eggplant, pastiticio, beer, and water for 21Euros. They also serve lamb with lemon, artichoke with lemon sauce (looked incredible), roast chicken, fried or grilled calamari, grilled shrimp, stuffed tomato and pepper, mousaka, tzatziki, and fava.
**THE BEACHES**
The Nets: We ate here at the recommendation of Esperas. It’s located on the black beach of Vlihada. The menu was entirely in Greek, so our waiter just told us what they served. Very traditional fish tavern fare included fish balls, grilled octopus, boneless grilled fish filet, greek salad, etc. We ate fava dip, fried tomato balls (I love these things), Santorini Salad (beware the surprise anchovy) and some spicy pepper dish that was baked in a little clay pot with feta and tomato. With 2 Mythos the bill came to 28Euros. We were treated to a tasty little dessert courtesy of the restaurant, and it remains a mystery that maybe someone can solve. It had the texture of cornmeal, was served cold, was flavored with honey and cinnamon and cut into little squares…tasty and mysterious!
Chili Bar: Obviously a happening beach hang out. We hang with the uber cool beach crowd for a while and nursed the tastiest Pina Coladas on our trip.
**OTHER**
1800: Advertised a May 5 opening but changed their minds and opened May 3. Extensive and expensive menu, and very large wine list. We were told that is was “no big loss” to miss an evening here – said dinner here was almost twice that of Ambrosia and not as good.
Santorini Mou, I Love You: Yvonne at Esperas said that we should go here for a completely different experience. It’s a pink building located on the road leading out of Fira. It’s on the left right before the road starts winding to Fira. She said that it’s a bit of a party atmosphere and that the owner sings and plays guitars…and that many people leave drunk. Sounded like a fun evening, but we never made it. It’s about a 25 minute walk from Esperas.
Karma: This place looks beautiful and just opened last year. They were getting ready to reopen this season, so we missed out. Food with an Asian flair.
Koukoumavlos: In Fira. Esperas says this is the best restaurant on the island (and says that Selene used to be the best).
Cantuccio: In Fira. Also recommended by Esperas for a nice Italian meal.
May 7th, 2005, 12:04 PM
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Part 3: GENERAL INFO and THE END
**GENERAL INFO**
* Flights: I’m assuming most everyone has traveled on an airplane, therefore flight details will most likely bore you. However, I would like to remind you to pick up your luggage in Athens for the transfer to Santorini. Our United agent told us the bags would be checked all the way to Santorini, but that was not accurate info. Luckily we had enough time to realize the mistake.
* Language: Never had a problem speaking only English. The only "problem" I encountered was the embarassment of not speaking Greek. I continue to be amazed by bi-, tri-, (and more) lingual folks I meet abroad.
* ATMs: ATMs are plentiful, even in little Oia. We found 3 – one just before Magma gallery (a little tricky to see, down a short flight of stairs), one by the tourist center, and one by the bus stop. One night the ATMs by the tourist center and bus stop were broken, but the one by Magma magically worked.
* Easter: We were in Oia for Easter! This is a wonderfully festive time of year and was very fun to observe. Better yet – nothing was closed. Esperas gave us candles for taking to church as well as red dyed easter eggs (fancy a game of conkers?) and easter bread. I wanted to go to church (service at 11) to see what it was like, but the hoardes of children (some might say hooligans) throwing fireworks at each other in the church square was a little frightening. We headed back to our hotel where we were chased into our room by a dog the size of a bear – he literally ran at us over the roofs at Esperas then sat on our terrace for an hour breathing heavily and waiting for us to emerge. Our fear subsided around midnight when the fireworks went off all over the island and terrified the BearDog off of our terrace. The fireworks at Thirassia across the way and down at Ammoudi were very easily visible from our room/terrace and were fun to watch. The rest of the week was spent dodging fireworks (hubby hit by one in the face by kids throwing them off the back of their moped – not nice) and wondering what the heck all the gunfire was about. Anyone know why people randomly fire guns into the air at all hours of the day/night?
* Bring sunscreen. We went through a whole bottle then had to buy a second at the lousy price of 13E. If we had been smarter, we would have bought it at the super market in Oia, but instead we bought it at a souvenir stand and paid the Stupid Tourist tax. Learn from our mistake.
* Buy food gifts from the main super market. We wanted to bring home a bottle of Sigalas red wine, and it was 8Euros at the super market and 12Euros at one of the traditional food shops. Same bottle of wine was 20Euros at the restaurants.
* Cabs were a bit tricky. Catch them at the main taxi stand in Oia and Fira. They were picky about who they would take (number of passengers) and where – was a nightmare when there were tons of cruise ship passengers all clambering for a cab. The fare from Oia to Fira is currently 10 Euros. The fare from the airport to Esperas is 20Euros.
* Athinorama Guide to Santorini: We found this guide at Boutari winery, but saw it at other random locations around Santorini as well. It’s hard to miss – bright orange cover – and contains very excellent information. Sections include The Island, History, Excursions and Trips, Beaches, Accommodation, Eating Out, Nightlife, Shopping, and Other Data. Pick one up if you see it – well worth the 10Euros we paid for it.
* Car Rental: We rented a Peugeout convertible for 58Euros one day from Auto Europe. Esperas arranged for the rental and it was delivered to Esperas. Great little car and fun to tour the island – we were glad we did this one day. Made it to Pyrgos (beautiful – and there’s a Relais and Chateaux property there if you’re interested), the beaches, Boutari winery (skipped the tour and just did the tasting – 5Euros for tasting and our fave bottle cost 6Euros to take home), Akrotiri (closed on Mondays, and Esperas thought it was also closed for construction), the red beach, the lighthouse (amazing view) and back home. All this in approximately 6 hours. I felt like there was still more to see and would have enjoyed renting a car for a second day.
* Need a good book? Check out Atlantis bookstore. It sells a wide variety of good used books in English as well as Greek books. Even if you don’t need a book, go check out this place and tell me what you think it is. It appears to be a little commune of sorts with some Americans living there and working there. I wanted to ask them how I could get their life, but was too busy staring to talk.
* Bring binoculars. We enjoyed having our small binoculars with us – lots to look at with the view and the ship activity on the water.
**THE END**
We thoroughly enjoyed our 7 nights on Santorini. Did we think it was too much time? No way – how could you possibly tire of eating fantastic food, meeting friendly people, relaxing, and looking at THAT VIEW? Nothing could possibly compare…we can’t wait to go back.
Thanks again for everyone’s trip advice…and Bon Voyage to those of you who are currently planning your own trip to this fantastic island.
**GENERAL INFO**
* Flights: I’m assuming most everyone has traveled on an airplane, therefore flight details will most likely bore you. However, I would like to remind you to pick up your luggage in Athens for the transfer to Santorini. Our United agent told us the bags would be checked all the way to Santorini, but that was not accurate info. Luckily we had enough time to realize the mistake.
* Language: Never had a problem speaking only English. The only "problem" I encountered was the embarassment of not speaking Greek. I continue to be amazed by bi-, tri-, (and more) lingual folks I meet abroad.
* ATMs: ATMs are plentiful, even in little Oia. We found 3 – one just before Magma gallery (a little tricky to see, down a short flight of stairs), one by the tourist center, and one by the bus stop. One night the ATMs by the tourist center and bus stop were broken, but the one by Magma magically worked.
* Easter: We were in Oia for Easter! This is a wonderfully festive time of year and was very fun to observe. Better yet – nothing was closed. Esperas gave us candles for taking to church as well as red dyed easter eggs (fancy a game of conkers?) and easter bread. I wanted to go to church (service at 11) to see what it was like, but the hoardes of children (some might say hooligans) throwing fireworks at each other in the church square was a little frightening. We headed back to our hotel where we were chased into our room by a dog the size of a bear – he literally ran at us over the roofs at Esperas then sat on our terrace for an hour breathing heavily and waiting for us to emerge. Our fear subsided around midnight when the fireworks went off all over the island and terrified the BearDog off of our terrace. The fireworks at Thirassia across the way and down at Ammoudi were very easily visible from our room/terrace and were fun to watch. The rest of the week was spent dodging fireworks (hubby hit by one in the face by kids throwing them off the back of their moped – not nice) and wondering what the heck all the gunfire was about. Anyone know why people randomly fire guns into the air at all hours of the day/night?
* Bring sunscreen. We went through a whole bottle then had to buy a second at the lousy price of 13E. If we had been smarter, we would have bought it at the super market in Oia, but instead we bought it at a souvenir stand and paid the Stupid Tourist tax. Learn from our mistake.
* Buy food gifts from the main super market. We wanted to bring home a bottle of Sigalas red wine, and it was 8Euros at the super market and 12Euros at one of the traditional food shops. Same bottle of wine was 20Euros at the restaurants.
* Cabs were a bit tricky. Catch them at the main taxi stand in Oia and Fira. They were picky about who they would take (number of passengers) and where – was a nightmare when there were tons of cruise ship passengers all clambering for a cab. The fare from Oia to Fira is currently 10 Euros. The fare from the airport to Esperas is 20Euros.
* Athinorama Guide to Santorini: We found this guide at Boutari winery, but saw it at other random locations around Santorini as well. It’s hard to miss – bright orange cover – and contains very excellent information. Sections include The Island, History, Excursions and Trips, Beaches, Accommodation, Eating Out, Nightlife, Shopping, and Other Data. Pick one up if you see it – well worth the 10Euros we paid for it.
* Car Rental: We rented a Peugeout convertible for 58Euros one day from Auto Europe. Esperas arranged for the rental and it was delivered to Esperas. Great little car and fun to tour the island – we were glad we did this one day. Made it to Pyrgos (beautiful – and there’s a Relais and Chateaux property there if you’re interested), the beaches, Boutari winery (skipped the tour and just did the tasting – 5Euros for tasting and our fave bottle cost 6Euros to take home), Akrotiri (closed on Mondays, and Esperas thought it was also closed for construction), the red beach, the lighthouse (amazing view) and back home. All this in approximately 6 hours. I felt like there was still more to see and would have enjoyed renting a car for a second day.
* Need a good book? Check out Atlantis bookstore. It sells a wide variety of good used books in English as well as Greek books. Even if you don’t need a book, go check out this place and tell me what you think it is. It appears to be a little commune of sorts with some Americans living there and working there. I wanted to ask them how I could get their life, but was too busy staring to talk.
* Bring binoculars. We enjoyed having our small binoculars with us – lots to look at with the view and the ship activity on the water.
**THE END**
We thoroughly enjoyed our 7 nights on Santorini. Did we think it was too much time? No way – how could you possibly tire of eating fantastic food, meeting friendly people, relaxing, and looking at THAT VIEW? Nothing could possibly compare…we can’t wait to go back.
Thanks again for everyone’s trip advice…and Bon Voyage to those of you who are currently planning your own trip to this fantastic island.
May 7th, 2005, 12:52 PM
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It was 20Euros total (not per person). Esperas had advertised it as a 33Euro trip, but we were pleasantly surprised at the actual cost.
One note though: on our way from Esperas to the airport, the driver stopped near Katikies and picked up a second couple. He then charged each couple 20Euros which annoyed me a bit. He was the same driver that charged us 12Euros from Fira to Oia instead of the 10Euros charge we received from other drivers.
One note though: on our way from Esperas to the airport, the driver stopped near Katikies and picked up a second couple. He then charged each couple 20Euros which annoyed me a bit. He was the same driver that charged us 12Euros from Fira to Oia instead of the 10Euros charge we received from other drivers.
May 7th, 2005, 05:14 PM
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Hi,
You had a great trip. We have been to Santorini a couple of times and stayed at the Esperas and the Katikies. Both are wonderful and the view is breath taking and something one has to experience. You ate very well. We did a lot less fancy dining. We would often buy wine to drink on the terrace of our hotel, but beer is cheap in Greece and goes nicely with lunch. The best calamari I have had was in a little resturant way below the Katikies, on the water in Santorini. We also had fresh grilled fish. It was a long walk down and back, but a wonderful memory. I love the fava. We did go to Sanotorini Mu one night. The food was great and they did play music and people were free to get up and dance Greek dances. Some of the people were great Greek dancers and others like us, just winged it, but everyone had a great time. Go again and enjoy.
You had a great trip. We have been to Santorini a couple of times and stayed at the Esperas and the Katikies. Both are wonderful and the view is breath taking and something one has to experience. You ate very well. We did a lot less fancy dining. We would often buy wine to drink on the terrace of our hotel, but beer is cheap in Greece and goes nicely with lunch. The best calamari I have had was in a little resturant way below the Katikies, on the water in Santorini. We also had fresh grilled fish. It was a long walk down and back, but a wonderful memory. I love the fava. We did go to Sanotorini Mu one night. The food was great and they did play music and people were free to get up and dance Greek dances. Some of the people were great Greek dancers and others like us, just winged it, but everyone had a great time. Go again and enjoy.
May 8th, 2005, 02:31 AM
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Oh beanweb, you're making me weep. We just loved Oia, Esperas in particular. What a gorgeous, romantic place. Thanks for the great restaurant reviews, we ate at many of the same places. We actually made it to Santorini Mou, and yes everthing Yvonne says is true! I had the hangover to prove it. Efaristo polle.
May 9th, 2005, 07:58 AM
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Thank you for all your little tips mixed in as well as all the restaurant reviews- we're leaving for our Greek honeymoon next week and I am more excited after reading this than I already was, if that's possible! Thank you for taking the time to write this!
May 9th, 2005, 08:12 AM
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Thank you so much for taking the time to write your fabulous trip report -- glad you had a great time! And, as a previous poster said, the added tips are really helpful.
We'll be arriving at Esperas two weeks from today with your trip report in our luggage!
Thanks again,
Pat C
We'll be arriving at Esperas two weeks from today with your trip report in our luggage!
Thanks again,
Pat C
May 9th, 2005, 08:22 AM
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Thank you everyone for your replies! We will definitely be back, and next time we will visit Santorini Mou.
I'm so surprised at the lack of info that the Island guide books devote to Santorini - it's such an amazing place and worth every second you spend there. Happy travels to all of you with upcoming trips!
I'm so surprised at the lack of info that the Island guide books devote to Santorini - it's such an amazing place and worth every second you spend there. Happy travels to all of you with upcoming trips!
May 9th, 2005, 11:16 AM
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Thanks beanweb24 for your trip report. I leave for Greece this weekend and will be visiting Santorini. I cant wait to try out some of your recommendations. Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed and informatiev trip report.
May 10th, 2005, 08:14 AM
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What a great report! You really captured the essence of just chilling out on Santorini and enjoying the food, atmosphere and people. I can't wait to try some of your restaurant suggestions next month! I'm glad you enjoyed Katina's. Maybe this time we'll try Sunset and compare.
I second the recommendation for the Athinorama guides. You can get them in the Athens airport (or the airports in the islands) and they are really worth picking up. In fact, I bought the guides for Mykonos and Rhodes on our way home from Greece last time, just for future planning reference. They have great, up to date restaurant and hotel reviews, as well as info on the hottest spots that particular season (essential info for Mykonos' party scene).
Another tip: I love the Nivea Sun products that you can buy in the drugstore in Greece but I have not seen them here. Very thick lotion and my favorite sunscreen- stays on, not expensive, but luxurious and moisturizing. It's cheap- like buying Coppertone here, but much better.
I second the recommendation for the Athinorama guides. You can get them in the Athens airport (or the airports in the islands) and they are really worth picking up. In fact, I bought the guides for Mykonos and Rhodes on our way home from Greece last time, just for future planning reference. They have great, up to date restaurant and hotel reviews, as well as info on the hottest spots that particular season (essential info for Mykonos' party scene).
Another tip: I love the Nivea Sun products that you can buy in the drugstore in Greece but I have not seen them here. Very thick lotion and my favorite sunscreen- stays on, not expensive, but luxurious and moisturizing. It's cheap- like buying Coppertone here, but much better.
May 10th, 2005, 06:14 PM
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What a wonderful trip report! Thank you. I have 1 little question. Our cruise ship stops in Santorini for the day, and evening. We are do it your selfers. Oia sounds lovely. Will we have any problems getting there from the ships dock? Someone mentioned climbing up a donkey trail or taking a cable car. Is this Oia? We leave June 8th. Hope you see this question and can help me. Thanks!
May 10th, 2005, 08:40 PM
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Hi
Thanks for the report. It brought back wonderful memories of Santorini.
<...the driver stopped near Katikies and picked up a second couple. He then charged each couple 20Euros which annoyed me a bit> This didn't happen to us but we were warned this is a common practice. I would say this is because in peak season there is just not enough taxis on the island.
<But the best thing was the fresh yogurt with the honey..> Oh yeah baby!. This was really good. I'm sure this was the cause of my buttons popping after our Greek trip.
Hope one day very soon to do the Greek Island Hopping thing.
See ya
Thanks for the report. It brought back wonderful memories of Santorini.
<...the driver stopped near Katikies and picked up a second couple. He then charged each couple 20Euros which annoyed me a bit> This didn't happen to us but we were warned this is a common practice. I would say this is because in peak season there is just not enough taxis on the island.
<But the best thing was the fresh yogurt with the honey..> Oh yeah baby!. This was really good. I'm sure this was the cause of my buttons popping after our Greek trip.
Hope one day very soon to do the Greek Island Hopping thing.
See ya
May 10th, 2005, 10:58 PM
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That's a great report, especially the dining notes.
RE: Guidebooks -- I don't think Santorini gets the short shrift in most guidebooks, but it's that so many other parts of Greece are spectacular as well, just in different ways.
RE: Guidebooks -- I don't think Santorini gets the short shrift in most guidebooks, but it's that so many other parts of Greece are spectacular as well, just in different ways.
May 11th, 2005, 04:13 AM
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zwho -
Your cruise ship will port in Fira. You have to take either the cable car or the donkeys (or your legs if you fancy a challenging climb) up the cliff to Fira proper. From there, you can go to the taxi stand and then on to Oia.
Be conscious of time if you plan on getting to Oia on your own. There is a *very* limited number of cabs on the islands, and we were astounded at the competition to get taxis...it is very competitive (even more so when the "cruise people" were in town). If your cruise offers transportation to Oia, you might be better off. Otherwise, just make sure you leave plenty of time to get from Oia back to your ship in Fira. Have a wonderful trip!
Your cruise ship will port in Fira. You have to take either the cable car or the donkeys (or your legs if you fancy a challenging climb) up the cliff to Fira proper. From there, you can go to the taxi stand and then on to Oia.
Be conscious of time if you plan on getting to Oia on your own. There is a *very* limited number of cabs on the islands, and we were astounded at the competition to get taxis...it is very competitive (even more so when the "cruise people" were in town). If your cruise offers transportation to Oia, you might be better off. Otherwise, just make sure you leave plenty of time to get from Oia back to your ship in Fira. Have a wonderful trip!
