Santa Margherita or Rapallo .... if I don't decide soon I may lose my mind or my husband.
Jul 5th, 2008, 10:07 AM
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Santa Margherita or Rapallo .... if I don't decide soon I may lose my mind or my husband.
OMG ... indecision. OK, here is my dilemma. I have read through endless posts but am still undecided. We are going to Italy in September and staying for 9 nights. We have been to Italy several times and have decided on the Riviera as a base to explore the surrounding towns and Cinque Terre. I am trying to decide if we should go to Rapallo and stay at the Hotel Riviera or the Hotel Astoria .... or ..... should we go to Santa Margherita and stay at Hotel Jolanda. The only issue at Jolanda is that at the moment they do not have availability the last two nights that we need. As per their reception, something might open up. We are flying into Malpensa which is another dilemma in and of itself. I was trying to avoid the shuttle to Milano Centrale and then the train to the Riviera. Does anyone know of a reasonable car service? Then their is the last night. More than likely we will stay at an airport by Malpensa. If we decide to take the train to Milano Centrale on our last day, what would be the best way to get to the airport hotel? Grazie mille.
Jul 5th, 2008, 10:34 AM
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MiamoItalia:
Once again, I agree with The Erstwhile Navigator....Hotel Laurin is at the yacht harbor and is very central to the neat little town of SML...you can take a boat to Portofino, or a bus...short rides. If you're into hiking, walk it. Laurin is simply designed and furnished, but clean and comfortable...get a room overlooking the harbor. We thoroughly enjoyed staying in SML...quick and easy train ride to CT (Monterosso) ..then you can walk the entire trail, or train it...and also a quick ride to colorful Camogli.
stu t.
Once again, I agree with The Erstwhile Navigator....Hotel Laurin is at the yacht harbor and is very central to the neat little town of SML...you can take a boat to Portofino, or a bus...short rides. If you're into hiking, walk it. Laurin is simply designed and furnished, but clean and comfortable...get a room overlooking the harbor. We thoroughly enjoyed staying in SML...quick and easy train ride to CT (Monterosso) ..then you can walk the entire trail, or train it...and also a quick ride to colorful Camogli.
stu t.
Jul 5th, 2008, 11:01 AM
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Personally I prefer Rapallo as a base for anything in Liguria -- better train and bus connections, car rental office.
But it's a bigger town than Santa Margherita Ligure, which is a plus for me, but not if you are trying to "get away from it all." In which case, the yacht harbor/marina of Santa Margherita Ligure might be better.
Did you know there is a bus that goes directly from Malpensa to Genova station? That way you can avoid the tranfer into Milano.
http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/en...=come_arrivare
You can take a train from Genova to either S.Maria Ligure or Rapallo. A taxi from Genova to either place you are considering would probably run you about 70-100 euros. Ask your hotel for help, including whether they know of a transfer service directly from Malpensa.
I hate to complicate your life and marriage, but have you considered towns other than Rapallo or S.Maria Ligure that are on the Ligurian train line? Is swimming in the sea important to you? Beautiful hiking? (In which case I might suggest the Cenobi dei Dogi in Camogli or even Levanto, although I am not in a position to recommend a hotel in the latter). Sestri Levante is only partially scenic, but it has real charm, some luxury hotels, easy driving if you rent a car.
What is your main interest in going to the Riviera?
But it's a bigger town than Santa Margherita Ligure, which is a plus for me, but not if you are trying to "get away from it all." In which case, the yacht harbor/marina of Santa Margherita Ligure might be better.
Did you know there is a bus that goes directly from Malpensa to Genova station? That way you can avoid the tranfer into Milano.
http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/en...=come_arrivare
You can take a train from Genova to either S.Maria Ligure or Rapallo. A taxi from Genova to either place you are considering would probably run you about 70-100 euros. Ask your hotel for help, including whether they know of a transfer service directly from Malpensa.
I hate to complicate your life and marriage, but have you considered towns other than Rapallo or S.Maria Ligure that are on the Ligurian train line? Is swimming in the sea important to you? Beautiful hiking? (In which case I might suggest the Cenobi dei Dogi in Camogli or even Levanto, although I am not in a position to recommend a hotel in the latter). Sestri Levante is only partially scenic, but it has real charm, some luxury hotels, easy driving if you rent a car.
What is your main interest in going to the Riviera?
Jul 5th, 2008, 11:09 AM
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Regarding getting to Malpensa for your return:
There is no airport hotel directly inside the airport area, so every hotel requires a shuttle or a taxi from the airport. Meaning, if you elect to go to an airport hotel, you need to catch the bus from Centrale station to Milano (an hour) and then make your way to your hotel -- where you will have little choice but to eat mediocre hotel restaurant food.
Better in my mind is to spend the night in Milano, either near the central station (not the city's finest neighborhood) so you can grab the bus in the morning, or -- better still -- take the train to Milano, and then make your way to a hotel near Cadorna station. From there, in the morning, you can catch the direct Malpensa Xpress train to the airport.
If you still want an airport hotel, be aware that the same bus that goes from Malpensa to Genova makes a return trip.
There is no airport hotel directly inside the airport area, so every hotel requires a shuttle or a taxi from the airport. Meaning, if you elect to go to an airport hotel, you need to catch the bus from Centrale station to Milano (an hour) and then make your way to your hotel -- where you will have little choice but to eat mediocre hotel restaurant food.
Better in my mind is to spend the night in Milano, either near the central station (not the city's finest neighborhood) so you can grab the bus in the morning, or -- better still -- take the train to Milano, and then make your way to a hotel near Cadorna station. From there, in the morning, you can catch the direct Malpensa Xpress train to the airport.
If you still want an airport hotel, be aware that the same bus that goes from Malpensa to Genova makes a return trip.
Jul 5th, 2008, 12:34 PM
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Mia I am glad to see that I am not the only one who has a difficult time choosing a base in this area!
We have 6 nights and actually decided to break them up and stay 3 in one place and 3 in another. Crazy, I know, but I just could not decide!
Perhaps there is some info here that will help you, if you can weed through all of my ancillary questions..the discussion segued in a few directions but there is lots and lots of good advice from those who know the region:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35130024
We have 6 nights and actually decided to break them up and stay 3 in one place and 3 in another. Crazy, I know, but I just could not decide!
Perhaps there is some info here that will help you, if you can weed through all of my ancillary questions..the discussion segued in a few directions but there is lots and lots of good advice from those who know the region:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35130024
Jul 5th, 2008, 12:47 PM
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Thank you all for your great suggestions. Zeppole, yes I have considered basing in other areas but I feel like I am going around in circles. I have no problem with a bigger city. I have always wanted to see the riviera and cinque terre so we decided to focus this trip on that area. I would love to swim in the Mediterranean and just check out the beauty of the area. What I love is the great food and just trying to absorb the Italian feel of life. I am studying Italian and would love to just go and listen to people chat and try to speak with them. I am looking for a very simple trip, the little things make me very happy. Yes, I just found out about that bus. Do you have any idea how the roads are from Malpensa to the Riviera? My husband gets motion sickness and after a transtlantic flight I am a bit concerned whether or not the roads are very curvy.
Jul 5th, 2008, 01:00 PM
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Zeppole, I am sorry but I forgot to ask if you have a hotel recommendation by the Cadorna station in Milan? I am sort of liking that idea. Also, what hotel do you stay in when you go to Rapallo? I want to swim in the Mediterranean but that is not #1 on my list. We aren't really "beach" people so time spent on the beach would be minimal.
Jul 5th, 2008, 01:04 PM
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The road from Malpensa to Genova is a curvy slalom, and high up to boot. Rather like a roller coaster. I've been known to avoid it myself, even when I'm the driver! Other than the train, there is no way to Genova except winding, curving roads over mountains. So take the train from Milano all the way.
If either of you is prone to motion sickness, it is also best to avoid the local bus or taxi out of Santa Margherita up the hill in the direction of Genova. Take the train, or go the other way, to Rapallo. The road to Portofino is completely flat.
In general, buses and car rides in in that part of Liguria (between Genova and Rapallo) are roller coaster rides. Stick to the trains.
So I strongly recommend taking the train in both directions when it comes to Malpensa.
Have you considered spending a night in Milano when you arrive, just to have a nice meal, rest up, get your hair done and see the Duomo? Take the non-curvy, non-bus Malpensa Xpress into town, find a nice place to stay, eat a stomach soothing pumpkin risotto, see the Duomo and go to Genova the next morning.
The British have been tromping around Liguria for so long (and now the Americans in Le Cinque Terre), you'll find lots of Italians eager to speak English with you. To practice your Italian, Sestri Levante is where Italians go with their families, and if you want to go shopping, try out your Italian in Chiavari. In general, anyplace you go that isn't in your tour book is likely to give your Italian a workout.
If either of you is prone to motion sickness, it is also best to avoid the local bus or taxi out of Santa Margherita up the hill in the direction of Genova. Take the train, or go the other way, to Rapallo. The road to Portofino is completely flat.
In general, buses and car rides in in that part of Liguria (between Genova and Rapallo) are roller coaster rides. Stick to the trains.
So I strongly recommend taking the train in both directions when it comes to Malpensa.
Have you considered spending a night in Milano when you arrive, just to have a nice meal, rest up, get your hair done and see the Duomo? Take the non-curvy, non-bus Malpensa Xpress into town, find a nice place to stay, eat a stomach soothing pumpkin risotto, see the Duomo and go to Genova the next morning.
The British have been tromping around Liguria for so long (and now the Americans in Le Cinque Terre), you'll find lots of Italians eager to speak English with you. To practice your Italian, Sestri Levante is where Italians go with their families, and if you want to go shopping, try out your Italian in Chiavari. In general, anyplace you go that isn't in your tour book is likely to give your Italian a workout.
Jul 5th, 2008, 01:11 PM
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Hi again, miamoitalia. Our posts crossed.
In Milano, I like the UNA Cusani. Next down in price, I like Palazzo delle Stelline. I have never been able to book the boutique Antico Locando Leonardo Da Vinci (it's always full), but it's a nice price, and I keep trying.
Try booking through websites like bookings.com or others for discounts on the 3 and 4 star hotels.
I have never stayed in a hotel in Rapallo. I looked at the pictures of the ones you mentioned and they look fine. I would doublecheck them against Tripadvisor. I think the big decision is really about whether you want the boutique quaintness of S.Maria Ligure or the variety of Rapallo. I honestly don't know who has the better swimming, but it scarcely matters. Camogli is the next stop up on the train and has a very sweet (pebble) beach that's free, and if you prefer sand, Sestri Levante has enormous sand beaches, one of them particularly peaceful and scenic, with a bar right on the sand.
In Milano, I like the UNA Cusani. Next down in price, I like Palazzo delle Stelline. I have never been able to book the boutique Antico Locando Leonardo Da Vinci (it's always full), but it's a nice price, and I keep trying.
Try booking through websites like bookings.com or others for discounts on the 3 and 4 star hotels.
I have never stayed in a hotel in Rapallo. I looked at the pictures of the ones you mentioned and they look fine. I would doublecheck them against Tripadvisor. I think the big decision is really about whether you want the boutique quaintness of S.Maria Ligure or the variety of Rapallo. I honestly don't know who has the better swimming, but it scarcely matters. Camogli is the next stop up on the train and has a very sweet (pebble) beach that's free, and if you prefer sand, Sestri Levante has enormous sand beaches, one of them particularly peaceful and scenic, with a bar right on the sand.
Jul 5th, 2008, 01:23 PM
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ekscrunchy,
I think the difficulty in choosing lies in that Ligurian towns really are only subtly different. The topography of the region has imposed an almost uniform style of human settlement: there are rivers and streams that flow to the sea. It's only possible to create towns at the esturaries. The bigger the river estuary, the bigger the town, but they all pretty much do the same thing: fish and grow olives -- with the exception of the truly huge estuaries that are industrial ports.
Rapallo has a fairly wide river and hence a large esturary, and hence a fairly busy place, that sees a fair amount of car traffic and has a true commercial center. Santa Margherita is a marina, set in a bowl, harder to access, and hence more given over to boutique shopping and holidays. Portofino is that squared.
Camogli has a tiny estuary and protected harbor that particularly favors small sized fishing vessels. It's too small to be a big resort and too fishy to be upscale, but it has very little to offer beyond lounging by the sea or climbing in the hills.
The same can be said of Ligurian town, with little variation, from the French border to the Tuscan coast.
I think the difficulty in choosing lies in that Ligurian towns really are only subtly different. The topography of the region has imposed an almost uniform style of human settlement: there are rivers and streams that flow to the sea. It's only possible to create towns at the esturaries. The bigger the river estuary, the bigger the town, but they all pretty much do the same thing: fish and grow olives -- with the exception of the truly huge estuaries that are industrial ports.
Rapallo has a fairly wide river and hence a large esturary, and hence a fairly busy place, that sees a fair amount of car traffic and has a true commercial center. Santa Margherita is a marina, set in a bowl, harder to access, and hence more given over to boutique shopping and holidays. Portofino is that squared.
Camogli has a tiny estuary and protected harbor that particularly favors small sized fishing vessels. It's too small to be a big resort and too fishy to be upscale, but it has very little to offer beyond lounging by the sea or climbing in the hills.
The same can be said of Ligurian town, with little variation, from the French border to the Tuscan coast.
Jul 5th, 2008, 01:23 PM
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Zeppole, thank you so much for the great information. I had no idea that the roads to genoa were so curvy. Knowing this, staying in Milan on the first and last night might be the way to go. I will definitely check out the hotels that you mentioned.
Jul 5th, 2008, 02:32 PM
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Jul 5th, 2008, 02:52 PM
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and this (as a fun thing to do on a visit to Rapallo or if you end up staying there). Ask for directions at your hotel for the cable car to the Santaurio
http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationP...n_Riviera.html
http://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationP...n_Riviera.html
Jul 5th, 2008, 02:55 PM
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Jul 5th, 2008, 05:29 PM
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Having stayed in SML 3 years ago and having just returned from a week's stay in Rapallo this past month-for me its Rapallo. The reason is that SML is big,touristy and EVERYONE stays there.
Differences-Rapallo is a combination of "regular people" town with tourists.
The promenade in Rapallo is a delight especially at night. We stayed at the Hotel Astoria and loved the location as there was a Thursday morning market for the locals which was fun on the waterfront. There is ferry service across the street from the Astoria to SML,Portofino and beyond while convenient(8 minute walk) train service to Genoa,Camoglia(sp?),Cinque Terre,Pisa,etc.There are also lots of various restaurants both on the waterfront and within the town.My daughter and I enjoyed the wonderful shops in Rapallo along with basics like Upim,etc.We were able to find the wonderful "mom and pop" eateries there which are a dying breed.
SML is a lovely town more spread out than Rapallo to me for walking. The cruise ships have really taken over the place as they are parked outside of the harbor and in front of Portofino everyday-be happy when 4PM arrives as that is when the cruisers have to be back on the boat!It seems to me to have more touristy souvenir shops and the atmosphere is more geared to visiting tourists.
Its a tough decision but one that you cannot lose on. Have fun! If you are interested in a reasonable meal overlooking the waterfront and the castle in Rapallo do let me know. My daughter and I loved this restaurant as it had a fixed price menut and it was so tasty with an unbelievable view.
Differences-Rapallo is a combination of "regular people" town with tourists.
The promenade in Rapallo is a delight especially at night. We stayed at the Hotel Astoria and loved the location as there was a Thursday morning market for the locals which was fun on the waterfront. There is ferry service across the street from the Astoria to SML,Portofino and beyond while convenient(8 minute walk) train service to Genoa,Camoglia(sp?),Cinque Terre,Pisa,etc.There are also lots of various restaurants both on the waterfront and within the town.My daughter and I enjoyed the wonderful shops in Rapallo along with basics like Upim,etc.We were able to find the wonderful "mom and pop" eateries there which are a dying breed.
SML is a lovely town more spread out than Rapallo to me for walking. The cruise ships have really taken over the place as they are parked outside of the harbor and in front of Portofino everyday-be happy when 4PM arrives as that is when the cruisers have to be back on the boat!It seems to me to have more touristy souvenir shops and the atmosphere is more geared to visiting tourists.
Its a tough decision but one that you cannot lose on. Have fun! If you are interested in a reasonable meal overlooking the waterfront and the castle in Rapallo do let me know. My daughter and I loved this restaurant as it had a fixed price menut and it was so tasty with an unbelievable view.
Jul 5th, 2008, 06:00 PM
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Yes, I feel that way, too! Since I live in Liguria, I'm always a little reluctant to definitely steer people toward Rapallo instead of Santa Margherita Ligure, because when you live someplace, you want different things than tourists often do. Santa Margherita Ligure (and Portofino) are jewels. They sparkle, are tucked away at night, they're quiet and pretty (and stylish). Rapallo bustles, and can be awfully blowsy and loose. It's more overdeveloped on the hillsides than the two other towns, etc etc.
But since I live in a much smaller Ligurian town, with very few stores, to me going to Rapallo is a lot of fun!
I just noticed in previous posts that I repeatedly referred to Santa Margherita Ligure as "S.Maria Ligure" which is quite incorrect. My fingers fly too fast at times.
But since I live in a much smaller Ligurian town, with very few stores, to me going to Rapallo is a lot of fun!
I just noticed in previous posts that I repeatedly referred to Santa Margherita Ligure as "S.Maria Ligure" which is quite incorrect. My fingers fly too fast at times.
