Sagra del fuoco in Recco, Liguria in September
Jun 4th, 2010 | 06:33 AM
#1
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Joined: May 2006
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Sagra del fuoco in Recco, Liguria in September
My husband and I will be in Genova from September 6 to 8, in an apartment in Manarola from the 8th to 13th, and then in an apartment in Camogli from the 13th to 18th. I haven't been in the Cinque Terre area in about 18 years, my husband has never been, and we've never been to Genova or the Camogli area. We are so looking forward to the area's wine, lots of seafood and great pesto, walking and being on the sea -- we will not have a car -- we'll will be using trains, boats, and our feet instead! My husband, who is always the designated driver, is really looking forward to a trip where he's not behind the wheel! Any ideas about side trips, great walks, favorite restaurants would be most appreciated -- I have been following other threads about the area. But our big question is about the sagra del fuoco in Recco. We love fireworks, and just heard about the fireworks festival in September. I'm trying to confirm the dates -- is it September 7-8? Has anyone been to it? If so, is Recco crazy-crowded for this? We were thinking our best bet would be to go to Recco from Genova on September 7, but aren't sure if it's best to go by boat or train. We would love any advice or thoughts on this. Grazie mille.
Jun 4th, 2010 | 07:17 AM
#2
Joined: Jun 2008
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Recco is crazy-crowded for it, and if there is a boat that goes from Genova, that sounds like fun. I'm sure trains in and out will be packed. In some years the fireworks have been cancelled due to fire hazard, and sometimes the fog rolls in, making them something of a bust. Be aware that they start and end rather late. Local law forbids fireworks displays until the last flight into Genova has landed.
I can't remember if it is the first or second weekend in September.
>>Any ideas about side trips, great walks, favorite restaurants would be most appreciated -- I have been following other threads about the area.<<
It is really worth doing some reading up on Genova to make the most of a stay there. It is a confusing city in terms of its layout, and it is filled with quirky sights left out of standard guidebooks, which focus on the renovated port and some other (I think) rather blah sights. One thing I'll personally recommend is either going up to the top of the Palazzo Rosso or going up to the Castelleto to see the view of Genova harbor over the port.
The Cadogan Guide to the Italian Riviera and Piemonte is exhaustive, and the DK Eyewitness Guide to the Italian Riviera has terrific maps.
David Downine's Food Wine of the Italian Riviera and Genoa is fantastic, and a great resource.
As for side trips in the Riviera Levante, Chiavari is my favorite, especially if you get a rainy day but any time for its shady porticoes. It is easy to get to from anywhere you are staying.
From Manarola, I would enjoy a trip to Sestri Levante for a stroll around (and an octopus meal at Polpo Mario).
From Camogli, I think it is highly enjoyable to go to San Rocco, either by bus via Ruta or on foot (meaning, climb up 700 stairs).
The bus ride from Camogli to Rapallo is stunning, and once you are in Rapallo you can go up the funivia to MonteAllegro for airplane-high view from beyond Genova to beyond le Cinque Terre.
I think the nicest way to visit Portofino is by boat, and once there, a visit to the small but truly quality art gallery on the via Roma can be nice.
If you don't make it to Recco to taste focaccia al formaggio, one of my favorite restaurants for it is the pretty La Marinella on the seaside in Nervi. It's an easy train ride from Camogli (get off at Nervi and walk under the tracks to the seaside promenade. Turn left, the restaurant is there). Nervi also has two of the most interesting museums in the area -- the Wolfsonian and the Galleria d'Arte Moderna (19th c. art). It can make a very nice excursion from Camogli.
If you can't get enough of sunset strolls by the sea, the promenade in Zoagli is just beautiful. An easy train ride from Camogli. There is a seaside bar there.
Finally, right inside Camogli itself, one of my favorite spots is Le Creperie, right on the lungomare. It is owned by a woman from Bretonne and, needless to say, crepes are not Italian! However, there are fresh and incredibly tasty, and they make a great light lunch when you simply cannot face another restaurant meal -- and the view is incomparable. In September, you can get them with baby octopus, but it is also nice to have them with rucola and tomato, topped with an egg.
Otherwise, let David Downie be your guide for food, and don't miss a visit to Chiavari for farinata.
Have a great time!
I can't remember if it is the first or second weekend in September.
>>Any ideas about side trips, great walks, favorite restaurants would be most appreciated -- I have been following other threads about the area.<<
It is really worth doing some reading up on Genova to make the most of a stay there. It is a confusing city in terms of its layout, and it is filled with quirky sights left out of standard guidebooks, which focus on the renovated port and some other (I think) rather blah sights. One thing I'll personally recommend is either going up to the top of the Palazzo Rosso or going up to the Castelleto to see the view of Genova harbor over the port.
The Cadogan Guide to the Italian Riviera and Piemonte is exhaustive, and the DK Eyewitness Guide to the Italian Riviera has terrific maps.
David Downine's Food Wine of the Italian Riviera and Genoa is fantastic, and a great resource.
As for side trips in the Riviera Levante, Chiavari is my favorite, especially if you get a rainy day but any time for its shady porticoes. It is easy to get to from anywhere you are staying.
From Manarola, I would enjoy a trip to Sestri Levante for a stroll around (and an octopus meal at Polpo Mario).
From Camogli, I think it is highly enjoyable to go to San Rocco, either by bus via Ruta or on foot (meaning, climb up 700 stairs).
The bus ride from Camogli to Rapallo is stunning, and once you are in Rapallo you can go up the funivia to MonteAllegro for airplane-high view from beyond Genova to beyond le Cinque Terre.
I think the nicest way to visit Portofino is by boat, and once there, a visit to the small but truly quality art gallery on the via Roma can be nice.
If you don't make it to Recco to taste focaccia al formaggio, one of my favorite restaurants for it is the pretty La Marinella on the seaside in Nervi. It's an easy train ride from Camogli (get off at Nervi and walk under the tracks to the seaside promenade. Turn left, the restaurant is there). Nervi also has two of the most interesting museums in the area -- the Wolfsonian and the Galleria d'Arte Moderna (19th c. art). It can make a very nice excursion from Camogli.
If you can't get enough of sunset strolls by the sea, the promenade in Zoagli is just beautiful. An easy train ride from Camogli. There is a seaside bar there.
Finally, right inside Camogli itself, one of my favorite spots is Le Creperie, right on the lungomare. It is owned by a woman from Bretonne and, needless to say, crepes are not Italian! However, there are fresh and incredibly tasty, and they make a great light lunch when you simply cannot face another restaurant meal -- and the view is incomparable. In September, you can get them with baby octopus, but it is also nice to have them with rucola and tomato, topped with an egg.
Otherwise, let David Downie be your guide for food, and don't miss a visit to Chiavari for farinata.
Have a great time!
Jun 4th, 2010 | 07:51 AM
#3
Original Poster
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Zeppole,
What a fabulous response -- thank you so much! We did get the David Downie book, and I have been devouring it already. All of your suggestions are wonderful, and I'm hoping we will take advantage of them all. You've hit on most of our favorite things -- sunsets, great views, great food (such as octopus, foccacia, crepes), mixed with some museums and galleries. Chiavari sounds lovely -- we loved the socca in Nice, and can't wait to try the Ligurian version -- farinata. We also are big Breton crepe fans, and Le Creperie is now on our list. One of the reasons we like renting apartments, rather than staying in hotels, is that we do get restauranted-out at some point, and crepes are such a nice lunch. We are also looking forward to the markets and doing some cooking -- how can you go wrong with great, fresh ingredients???
There are never enough sunsent strolls by the sea, finishing up, of course, at a seaside bar, so Zoagli sounds lovely.
I think we'll definitely look into the boat idea for the fireworks -- you can never see too many! Three months until we go, and I'm ready to leave now!!
What a fabulous response -- thank you so much! We did get the David Downie book, and I have been devouring it already. All of your suggestions are wonderful, and I'm hoping we will take advantage of them all. You've hit on most of our favorite things -- sunsets, great views, great food (such as octopus, foccacia, crepes), mixed with some museums and galleries. Chiavari sounds lovely -- we loved the socca in Nice, and can't wait to try the Ligurian version -- farinata. We also are big Breton crepe fans, and Le Creperie is now on our list. One of the reasons we like renting apartments, rather than staying in hotels, is that we do get restauranted-out at some point, and crepes are such a nice lunch. We are also looking forward to the markets and doing some cooking -- how can you go wrong with great, fresh ingredients???
There are never enough sunsent strolls by the sea, finishing up, of course, at a seaside bar, so Zoagli sounds lovely.
I think we'll definitely look into the boat idea for the fireworks -- you can never see too many! Three months until we go, and I'm ready to leave now!!
Jun 4th, 2010 | 08:16 AM
#4
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 9,422
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I just found the website for the Sagra in Recco. This year it is Sept 8
http://www.sagradelfuoco.it/index.ph...=205&Itemid=76
This is the website for the local boat company. I'm pretty sure they do a run on the night of the Sagra del Fuoco, but you can call them at some point.
http://www.golfoparadiso.it/_inglese/fares.htm
If you like markets, you might enjoy the truly old-fashioned and un-boutiqued covered food marke in Genova, the Mercato Orientale, right off the via XX Septembre, near the via Galata. The only modern thing about them is that they have a website:
http://www.mercatoorientale.org/
If you are going to be cooking in Camogli, market day is Wednesday morning and at the end of the market FURTHEST AWAY from the train station, there is a vendor from the val d'Aveto who sells fresh sausage that is fantastic. The shop of the Antico Borgo in town has nice cheeses, and for some real treats, head up to San Rocco di Camogli and buy some sweet fruit torte and fresh pesto from Panificio Maccarini (closed Wednesdays, open weekends, including Sunday, but mind that it closes for the long lunch). They also sell lasagne noodles, and a meal of lasagne al pesto is great.
While you are up there, walk past the church toward Mortola and Punta Chiappa for one of the prettiest drinks bars in the world.
There are two good wine shops in Camogli proper, one a Cantine right on the lungomare (try the Sardegnan rose) and on the via delle Republica, opposite Rizzo's bakery. The two tiny food markets at the end of town closer to Recco both have great produce.
Downie doesn't mention Hostaria ai Pesce in his book (it's on the via delle Republica, as you head in the direction of Rosa's and Recco), but they do very good fish. Also, for a very pleasant light dinner, go at the aperitivo hour to Bossa, on the via delle Republica, and order up fried anchovies. They do them very well, and have nice wines.
Drinks on the terrace at Cenobio dei Doge are wonderful, but the nibbles at La Primula are usually better it's not too hot out. The Bar Auriga in the middle of town serves miserable cocktails, but they dish up a fantastical "pinguino" -- a soft custard ice cream dipped upside down in hard chocolate -- if you are in a very silly mood. And the view is great.
http://www.sagradelfuoco.it/index.ph...=205&Itemid=76
This is the website for the local boat company. I'm pretty sure they do a run on the night of the Sagra del Fuoco, but you can call them at some point.
http://www.golfoparadiso.it/_inglese/fares.htm
If you like markets, you might enjoy the truly old-fashioned and un-boutiqued covered food marke in Genova, the Mercato Orientale, right off the via XX Septembre, near the via Galata. The only modern thing about them is that they have a website:
http://www.mercatoorientale.org/
If you are going to be cooking in Camogli, market day is Wednesday morning and at the end of the market FURTHEST AWAY from the train station, there is a vendor from the val d'Aveto who sells fresh sausage that is fantastic. The shop of the Antico Borgo in town has nice cheeses, and for some real treats, head up to San Rocco di Camogli and buy some sweet fruit torte and fresh pesto from Panificio Maccarini (closed Wednesdays, open weekends, including Sunday, but mind that it closes for the long lunch). They also sell lasagne noodles, and a meal of lasagne al pesto is great.
While you are up there, walk past the church toward Mortola and Punta Chiappa for one of the prettiest drinks bars in the world.
There are two good wine shops in Camogli proper, one a Cantine right on the lungomare (try the Sardegnan rose) and on the via delle Republica, opposite Rizzo's bakery. The two tiny food markets at the end of town closer to Recco both have great produce.
Downie doesn't mention Hostaria ai Pesce in his book (it's on the via delle Republica, as you head in the direction of Rosa's and Recco), but they do very good fish. Also, for a very pleasant light dinner, go at the aperitivo hour to Bossa, on the via delle Republica, and order up fried anchovies. They do them very well, and have nice wines.
Drinks on the terrace at Cenobio dei Doge are wonderful, but the nibbles at La Primula are usually better it's not too hot out. The Bar Auriga in the middle of town serves miserable cocktails, but they dish up a fantastical "pinguino" -- a soft custard ice cream dipped upside down in hard chocolate -- if you are in a very silly mood. And the view is great.
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Jun 4th, 2010 | 02:55 PM
#8
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 30
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Oops, hit the wrong button.
Zeppole,
Your suggestions are so much appreciated -- Jon and I are already drooling with anticipation!
ekscrunchy,
Here are the sites. We chose a non-sea view apartment in Manarolo, simply because Jon wasn't crazy to spend our first few days hiking back and forth to the apartment, and thought we can always just walk to the harbor for a great view. We are very excited about the Camogli apartment.
www.arbaspaa.com/hotel/Mediterraneo_3
www.vrbo.com/138322
nochblad,
Thank you so much for the Recco suggestion.
I think we'll have to have some prosecco tonight to toast all of your wonderful ideas!
Zeppole,
Your suggestions are so much appreciated -- Jon and I are already drooling with anticipation!
ekscrunchy,
Here are the sites. We chose a non-sea view apartment in Manarolo, simply because Jon wasn't crazy to spend our first few days hiking back and forth to the apartment, and thought we can always just walk to the harbor for a great view. We are very excited about the Camogli apartment.
www.arbaspaa.com/hotel/Mediterraneo_3
www.vrbo.com/138322
nochblad,
Thank you so much for the Recco suggestion.
I think we'll have to have some prosecco tonight to toast all of your wonderful ideas!
