s.fowler's report on Paris etc...
Dec 27th, 1999, 08:18 AM
#1
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s.fowler's report on Paris etc...
I have to start with concern for those in France and other northern european countries who got hit [and worse] by the high winds and bad weather. <BR> <BR>Warning - this is going to be long and chatty... no geese though
Just a lot of art, wine and foooood. If you want to skip to the pictures they are at: http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Musee/6100/dec/index.htm <BR> <BR>On to our trip to Paris. I thought I had outsmarted the French workers' penchant for strikes in the winter season. The museum workers settled last summer, so I figured stay close to the museums incase the metro goes out. Guess what? They got us before we left Chicago! Our Air France flight was cancelled because of the refeulers' strike at CDG! Air France put us immediately on Sabena via Brussels [and we still got Swissair miles!]Sabena's service and food was very fine. The Brussels airport a bit of a *pit* - there was also the added excitement of a partial power outage in the Brussels airport. What excitement! And I learned [again] that be best thing to bring with you on a trip is your ability to go with the flow <BR> <BR>I wish to report that the Air Shuttle worked exquisitely even though we were arriving late on a different airline and at a different terminal! They were actually 10 minutes early for our return trip to CDG. <BR> <BR>We stayed at Hotel Bersoly's Saint Germain on Rue Lille at the edge of the 6eme. I would stay there again in a minute. It is charming. Rooms are named after French painters. We were in the Manet room with a reproduction of one of his paintings and coordinated bedspread, headboard, curtains and chair seat covers. I got a peek in several other rooms. Renoir was next to us.. I think I'll ask for that next time! The bathroom was fine. Breakfast was included in the off season. The tarrif was $120 USD a night. Here is the website:http://globe-market.com/h75007bersolys2.htm <BR>We were 1 block from the Seine, 3 blocks from the Louvre pyramid and 2 blocks from Musee d'Orsay. The neighborhood was dotted with charming places to eat... and just a few blocks away were the elegant shops of the 6eme. The metro is Rue de Bac. Not as close as I would like, but workable. <BR> <BR>We were there 5 days... and since it was supposed to be a relaxing vacation we didn't overschedule. A typical day was: Breakfast and start out around 9:30-10... see a museum ... find a wine bar or cafe for lunch ... shop or wander ... eat a wonderful dinner from 8-10pm and then fall into bed. <BR> <BR>The best exhibit we saw was at the Museum of the City of Paris on Ave. Wilson [metro -Ilena] - It was a stunning array of Fauves, not just Matisse, Derain and the Germans, but ALL the influences.. What a *feast*. I think it runs through January 27. DON'T miss it! Otherwise we did the Louvre [the Denon wing is open again], spending a lot of time with the Italian and French paintings. Hubby studied Caravagio's "The Death of the Virgin" -- I wallowed in Boucher, Fragonard, Chardin, Delacroix, Gericault etc... Very satisfactory. Most of the best paintings at d'Orsay were on loan... it was a fairly bleak selection that was left. <BR> <BR>On Sunday we attended the 11:30 mass at Notre Dame. We didn't understand the homily, but the guy sure was earnest. And the organ and choir music [mostly modern French] was wonderful. We also managed to get to Ste Chapelle. <BR>Food and drink: This was a special trip for us so we didn't squeeze the francs, although we didn't spend over $100 for the two of us either. We had lunch at 2 of the L'Ecluse winebars specializing in Bordeaux and delicious small things to eat. There are 5 of them, one on Place Madeleine, if you want to leave Fauchon or Hediard. [see shopping] We also lunched at a small Cafe on Rue Lille named Pont Royal - complete with harried proprietoress and nice fresh salads! <BR> <BR>Restaurants: for the most part we ate in the 'hood. Some were carefully chosen, others just happened. Again let me emphasize that, even off season, a reservation is a standard courtesy in Paris. <BR>Bistrot de Paris: We were looking for a place to have a "simple meal." Ooops.. this was our best meal in Paris! I had salmon roasted with a crust of mushrooms and capers, hubby had a blanquette de veau. It is just down the street from the hotel on Rue de Lille. <BR>Tan Dihn: I have been aiming here [on Rue Verneuil] for a looooong time. The food was exquisite. I had a mango/crabmeat salad with the usual lime/hot flavor in the dressing, but soooo goooood. BUT there was a serious a**hole at the next table... a minor american artist bitching at a young french gallery representative and using bad language. It was hard to figure out how to deal with it, but it was hard ignore. <BR>
Just a lot of art, wine and foooood. If you want to skip to the pictures they are at: http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Musee/6100/dec/index.htm <BR> <BR>On to our trip to Paris. I thought I had outsmarted the French workers' penchant for strikes in the winter season. The museum workers settled last summer, so I figured stay close to the museums incase the metro goes out. Guess what? They got us before we left Chicago! Our Air France flight was cancelled because of the refeulers' strike at CDG! Air France put us immediately on Sabena via Brussels [and we still got Swissair miles!]Sabena's service and food was very fine. The Brussels airport a bit of a *pit* - there was also the added excitement of a partial power outage in the Brussels airport. What excitement! And I learned [again] that be best thing to bring with you on a trip is your ability to go with the flow <BR> <BR>I wish to report that the Air Shuttle worked exquisitely even though we were arriving late on a different airline and at a different terminal! They were actually 10 minutes early for our return trip to CDG. <BR> <BR>We stayed at Hotel Bersoly's Saint Germain on Rue Lille at the edge of the 6eme. I would stay there again in a minute. It is charming. Rooms are named after French painters. We were in the Manet room with a reproduction of one of his paintings and coordinated bedspread, headboard, curtains and chair seat covers. I got a peek in several other rooms. Renoir was next to us.. I think I'll ask for that next time! The bathroom was fine. Breakfast was included in the off season. The tarrif was $120 USD a night. Here is the website:http://globe-market.com/h75007bersolys2.htm <BR>We were 1 block from the Seine, 3 blocks from the Louvre pyramid and 2 blocks from Musee d'Orsay. The neighborhood was dotted with charming places to eat... and just a few blocks away were the elegant shops of the 6eme. The metro is Rue de Bac. Not as close as I would like, but workable. <BR> <BR>We were there 5 days... and since it was supposed to be a relaxing vacation we didn't overschedule. A typical day was: Breakfast and start out around 9:30-10... see a museum ... find a wine bar or cafe for lunch ... shop or wander ... eat a wonderful dinner from 8-10pm and then fall into bed. <BR> <BR>The best exhibit we saw was at the Museum of the City of Paris on Ave. Wilson [metro -Ilena] - It was a stunning array of Fauves, not just Matisse, Derain and the Germans, but ALL the influences.. What a *feast*. I think it runs through January 27. DON'T miss it! Otherwise we did the Louvre [the Denon wing is open again], spending a lot of time with the Italian and French paintings. Hubby studied Caravagio's "The Death of the Virgin" -- I wallowed in Boucher, Fragonard, Chardin, Delacroix, Gericault etc... Very satisfactory. Most of the best paintings at d'Orsay were on loan... it was a fairly bleak selection that was left. <BR> <BR>On Sunday we attended the 11:30 mass at Notre Dame. We didn't understand the homily, but the guy sure was earnest. And the organ and choir music [mostly modern French] was wonderful. We also managed to get to Ste Chapelle. <BR>Food and drink: This was a special trip for us so we didn't squeeze the francs, although we didn't spend over $100 for the two of us either. We had lunch at 2 of the L'Ecluse winebars specializing in Bordeaux and delicious small things to eat. There are 5 of them, one on Place Madeleine, if you want to leave Fauchon or Hediard. [see shopping] We also lunched at a small Cafe on Rue Lille named Pont Royal - complete with harried proprietoress and nice fresh salads! <BR> <BR>Restaurants: for the most part we ate in the 'hood. Some were carefully chosen, others just happened. Again let me emphasize that, even off season, a reservation is a standard courtesy in Paris. <BR>Bistrot de Paris: We were looking for a place to have a "simple meal." Ooops.. this was our best meal in Paris! I had salmon roasted with a crust of mushrooms and capers, hubby had a blanquette de veau. It is just down the street from the hotel on Rue de Lille. <BR>Tan Dihn: I have been aiming here [on Rue Verneuil] for a looooong time. The food was exquisite. I had a mango/crabmeat salad with the usual lime/hot flavor in the dressing, but soooo goooood. BUT there was a serious a**hole at the next table... a minor american artist bitching at a young french gallery representative and using bad language. It was hard to figure out how to deal with it, but it was hard ignore. <BR>
Dec 27th, 1999, 08:42 AM
#3
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Oooooops... I hit "post" before I was through - my bad. <BR> <BR>Food continued.... <BR>L'Oeillade: This was a bit further afield. On Rue St-Simon. [6 blocks rather than down the street!] It had been recommended in several books. [Perhaps Elvira will offer once of her geese to the person who guesses correctly what the restaurant name means!] The decorations were simple... the food was excellent. Hubby had a provencal daube. I had shrimp marinated and grilled in whiskey! They arrive in-shell and "avec tetes" Boy do french shrimp have long feelers! There is another restaurant on this street called La Ferme St-Simon, which is a bit more upscale. [L'Oeillade was "simple" ... until you tasted the food.] <BR>La Caleche: about 3 doors down from the hotel! The food was simpler and more direct here, very little english was spoken, but the place was *charming* and run by a family from the Jura. I had tagliatte and truffles The chef was in and out of the dining room... the mother and daughter were talking with an older man who was obviously a friend. We talked with him too, proving that I *can* understand french and even speak it if necessary The food was delicious and the ambience very warm. <BR> <BR>I'll be happy to provide addresses and fuller descriptions via email. <BR> <BR>All in all a relaxing, happy trip.
The chef was in and out of the dining room... the mother and daughter were talking with an older man who was obviously a friend. We talked with him too, proving that I *can* understand french and even speak it if necessary The food was delicious and the ambience very warm. <BR> <BR>I'll be happy to provide addresses and fuller descriptions via email. <BR> <BR>All in all a relaxing, happy trip.
Dec 27th, 1999, 11:02 AM
#5
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Loved your report as the pictures on your website. I too am concerned about any Fodorites in Paris now and the wonderful citizens of the city after hearing about the damage caused by the storm they had on Sunday. My husband and I stumbled upon a French newsreport on Sunday on some cable channel (it was all in French with really poor subtitles) and they showed the damage throughout France, especially Paris. Trees torn up in the Tulleries (and they fell on the fence along Rue de Rivoli and took it down), lots of trees and signs down on the Champs Elysees (the sign from the Lido was torn right off) surprisingly the millenium ferris wheels were fine (an omen?). Strange weather indeed. Welcome back, glad you enjoyed the trip, and makes me long for another trip.
Dec 27th, 1999, 08:53 PM
#6
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Your pictures are beautiful!! thank you for sharing! i am preparing for paris in may, was there for 4 days this last may and it wasn't enough!! i also hope that the people and the city recover from the freak storm they've had! thank you again for your account of your trip!
Dec 29th, 1999, 04:08 AM
#7
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Thanks for the kind comments. <BR>My apologies to those who responded to my Chartres inquiry... we never got out of Paris! But the information is carefully squirreled away on my computer's hard drive. We also didn't make it to Angelina... I *know* we were within 2 blocks at one point, but I didn't have the address with me. [Although I suppose my nose should have led us in for a landing!] That just leaves something wonderful for *next* time!
