SiobhanP

Bob I can tell you for a fact that if she said that to myself and the boyfriend or any Irish guest ...I know he would have told her to F**k off and remember she is in the tourist business. This is what pisses me off in some parts of the tourist trade some are wonderful and some just acting like its a privledge to stay with them when you are a customer. I hope the next edition you write will explain her rudeness. Saying that no better way to disarm a grouchy Irish person then give it right back at them and possibly make them laugh.

Keep going I am stuck at work waiting for a lift home as its is pouring buckets in the dublin city centre at the moment and I can't leave the office!!!

Itallian_Chauffer

Day 9 Millstreet Continued:

After a brief pause to unwind, we were back off, upon the road, in order to show off the town and its environs to John and Pam. With just the four of us, the Renault was roomy and comfortable and the large areas of glass and slightly higher stance afforded excellent visibility for viewing the countryside. I drove around, pointing out the townlands where the Great-grandparents had lived and the grandfather had been born, letting everyone soak in the atmosphere and sense of traversing the same ground that he had walked. We stopped in to the Wallis Arms for another dinner that couldn't be beat. Throughout it all, I kept calling and asking for information about a local acquaintance, but was having precious little luck.
I first had the great good fortune of meeting Sean Radley on my second visit to Ireland. My wife and I brought her father and mother for two weeks in June of 2000, on the occassion of the 120th birthday of Jack's father. As part of our visit, I arrainged to meet Sean at the Museum so that Jack could have the opportunity to seek answers to numerous questions raised by our research.
Sean pulled out all the stops, welcoming Jack like a long lost brother and making him an 'honorary citzen' of Millstreet. It doesn't matter that Sean may or may not actually have any authority to do so. Everyone in Millstreet and the surrounding area knows Sean. He is a teacher at the National School, semi-official photo, video and audion recorder of all events, founding member of the LTV2 local access television station, unofficial historian and curator of the local museum. In his spare time, he enjoys travelling, domestically and abroad. He is a remarkably delightfully entertaining and enlightening individual -- a true 'character' in his own right.
I finally received a text message from Sean as we were returning to Ballinatona. He had been at a wedding in Waterford, but would be returning to Millstreet. He arrainged to meet with us the next afternoon. Upon our return to the B&B, John and Pam struck up a pleasant coversation with Tim, our host. From him, we learned that his family had owned this farm for many generations. The current house is at least the third built upon this mountain, each one erected progressively closer to the Macroom Road, 'trying to hasten our escape', as he put it. Tim's sister lives above, in the old house and helps Jetta with the cooking and cleaning. They only farm part-time now and then spend three months of the year traveling. Tim is as lithe, lean and charming as any Irish farmer that I have ever met. Jetta is Danish. They have no children. Tim made us feel very welcome, indeed.
Delighted, we settled into the sitting room at the Farm, looking out down the hillside and watching the long shadows racing over the fields. During that time we compared notes and reviewed our digital pictures. Jetta came in, asking if our afternoon had gone well and what we planned for tommorrow. I can't say that we were rude to her, but we definitely were unfriendly. We told her that we planned to visit Commenatrush Falls along with a few other sites and then meet with 'my friend' in town.
"You have friends here, in Millstreet?" she asked.
"Yes," I replied. We're meeting Sean Radley, in the afternoon."
Now my wife and inlaws claim that from that very moment, our hostess bent over backwards to give us the best of all possible treatment and that it was a direct result of my "name-dropping". I am not so thoroughly convinced, however. I prefer to believe that we had merely misinterpretted her original tone and demeanor and that her true nature was what we experience after the first few minutes.
The next morning we had the best, farm fresh Irish breakfast that I believe that I have ever had. Jetta hovered over us, seeing to it that none of us wanted for anything. She did the same for her other guests, as well, which pretty much seems to bolster MY take on things. They were also Americans, a family of four from the mid-west, with the two children being in their early teens. They left early on, enroute to Shannon, for a flight out the next day.
Jetta offered up lots of interesting information about the Falls, the new Wind Generating Farm (on mountain bog-land leased from her and Tim and numerous other area attractions.
So, I'm thinking, we just got off to a bad start, but given time, everything worked out. My companions say I'm wrong, that it is WHO YOU KNOW.
OPINIONS?
More to come:
Bob

Itallian_Chauffer

Day 10: More Millstreet, More Babies and More of the cousins:

The day bloomed glorious and sunny. After the aforementioned, ultimate breakfast, we set out to further tour the area. Heading back toward Millstreet on the Macroom Road (the R582, for purists)we turned left onto the road leading past Kilmedy Castle and meandered back onto the mountain. I had a pretty good idea of where we wanted to be from my Discovery Series #79 map and from Jutta's directions and shortly after found us at the Wind Farm. There, in the bowl shaped bog, atop the mountain, they had already erected about a dozen wind turbines, with plans to add 30+ more, eventually. All of the shiny, white turbines were sitting idle, blades tethered and there was no active construction going on (it was a Monday) so I've no real idea how much noise/turbulence/environmental intrusion the giant generating fans might produce when they and their absent companions are all at work, but the idea is certainly intriging in a post-Katrina/Wilma US environment of nearly $3 per gallon gasoline (and who knows how much per gallon, for heating oil and natural gas??). Just down from the wind farm, I pulled off the road and we walked through the field to the southern ridge, where we discovered that we were actually at the top of the sought after Falls! After enjoying the views and the truely perfect weather for a while, we did a little amature orienteering and realized where we needed to go to access the pool at the bottom of the falls (climbing down a few hundred feet of EXCEDINGLY steep, rocky slope was not a permissible option, said Pam and Patricia!).
What we finally discovered is that we needed to turn off the Macroom Road just as if going to the B&B, save for the last turn off, where the sideroad forks. Ballinatona is the left fork but bearing right, instead took us about a 1/2 mile more to the north, ending at an old farmhouse heavily signposted with FOR SALE and NO TRESSPASSING signs (The farm, complete with approx 44 acres has, in fact, been sold -- it went for about 1/2 Million Euro -- to a local).
We parked there, beside the farmhouse and walk through the drive/ field road running through the property (after an obligatory stop to examine the farm and out-buildings while phantasizing about purchasing the place for ourselves). After an easy walk of about a 1/4 mile, the Falls loomed before us. If you've viewed the pictures link at the beging of this report, I don't have to describe the view and words really can't do it justice. The four of us remained there for a while, lounging on the grass, drinking in the sights and just enjoying the peace and solitude. during the entire time, including the return walk to the car and most of the drive back down off the mountain, we never saw another soul.

More to come
Bob

Itallian_Chauffer

More:

We say our first other human on the drive back out to the road, coming (of course!)in the opposite direction. I squeezed the Renault over into the brush and inched by, listening the whole while as the twigs and sticks tapped and scraped their way down the passenger side of the car. We drove into the Square at Millstreet to grab a quick lunch from the TakeAway and I surveyed the damage -- two long, full length scratches in the clear coat! Ah, well. Guess I shall see just how good that MasterCard MasterRental REALLY is, I thought ...
We ate our lunch in the van, doing a little people watching while we did. Then we drove up to the Museum for our appointment with Sean Radley. I'm never sure how to greet Sean. While he is certainly memorable to us (and often, a true highlight of our trips), we generally only see him for an hour or so, about once a year. Plus, Sean is possessed of the marvelous, 'absent-minded proffessor'that comes from being as incredibly busy as he usually is. So I always preface my greeting with a reminder that we have met before and that I am bringing more of Jack Doody's children to visit Millstreet. Sean invariably assures me that he remembers us perfectly well, while simultaneously acting for all the world as if he hasn't a clue as to who we are. Then he escorts us into the little museum and proudly shows us the picture that he took of Jack, back in 2000, displayed along with the dozens of other "honored dignitaries" that have visited here. (Brian Dennehey is among those photos. His grandfather used to live in Millstreet, as well.) Sean launches into his wirlwind tour of the place, his talk interrupted by a handful of phone calls and locals that drop in to see him or to pick something up. A County Council member drops by to have Sean take a digital photo of him, to be emailed to some newspaper or other and Sean never misses a beat. Next thing we know, Sean is snapping pictures of Councilman Duggan as he greets "Millstreet's Honored guests"!
Sean leads us down the street to the new coffeshop, where he insists upon buying us beverages and some of the best fresh-baked goods that I have ever eaten. By now, a couple of delightful hours have passed and we reluctantly part company. We are expected in Mallow shortly, to meet the cousins for dinner. I express some aprehension about making it on time due to the circuitous detour and Sean laughs as he tells me to ignore it and 'just drive through'. he detour doesn't apply to locals, he says. There will be a temporary traffic light, at the begining of the one lane stretch. Just wait for it to turn green before proceding, says he. So we take Sean at his word and follow the N72. Damn, if he wasn't right. We make the trip without incident and arrive in Mallow, only a few minutes later than planned.
More to come
Bob

Itallian_Chauffer

More:

We met with Sean and several of the cousins at the Hibernian Hotel in the center of Mallow. It is a beautiful, old building that has obviously had some serious renovation work done fairly recently. We ate in one of the bars and the food was quite good AND reasonable. I managed to snatch up the bill while the cousins were distracted and the total for the ten of us came to less than 100 Euro! I was feeling quite pleased with myself, after that uncharachteristic success. We had a great visit, until nearly 11PM before we said our final goodbyes and made our drive back to the B&B in Millstreet. Saying goodbye is never easy for Sean and his wife. It's a bit easier with their children. I suspect it's a generational thing, not wanting to say farewell to people leaving for America, as no doubt, in their day, often times it was goodbye, forever. The mind tells you that you will definitely return, but your heart seems to echo, "Did all the others before, not make that same pledge?"


Day 11:
In the morning, after another terrific, farm-fresh breakfast, we packed up, settled our bill and left the mountain. As we were manuevering the Renault out of the parking area and discussing our stay, we all agreed that, despite our less than hospitable welcome, all of us would stay at Ballinatona again. The setting is that beautiful.
We reluctantly made a slow, final exit from Millstreet. Heading back, toward Killarney, after one more brief stop at the church in Rathmore, we did some last-minute shopping and dropped by the Tourist Office to have them book our rooms in Bunratty, for our final night in Ireland. Then, we dropped back into the Internet Shop next door to peruse the latest baby pictures.
Through this report I have alluded to all the guilt we felt about being in Ireland during the first days of our grandchildren's lives. It was quite genuine, I assure you. Our Granddaughter was 32 days preterm, weighing only 5lbs 8 oz. Because she developed a severe case of jauntice, the hospital would not release her for almost a week. When she finally was able to go home, she weighed only 5 lbs.
Our grandson was only two weeks early, though he weighed in at only 5 lb 9 oz. He was suffering distress and so his labor had been induced. After his birth, his heart rate would drop dramatically and he suffered from apnia, as well. It was over a week before the hospital would release him, and then, it was only after he was fitted with a heart and breathing monitor and both of his parents had undergone Infant CPR training. Every day we phoned both the kids, checking in and getting updates. For our grandson, that included hearing lists of all the test results returned each day (EKG, Cat Scans, spinal taps, etc., etc.) and the growing list of ailments ruled out -- "Good news! The Doctors said that he doesn't have Menningitis!"
Needless to say, it made the whole trip a lot more difficult than I may have expressed thus far. Since then, both babies have thrived, but it was quite unnerving at the time. I spent most evenings reassuring my wife that everything would work out fine. Then, after she had fallen asleep, I would try to convince myself. Even now, I don't know that it would have been any better going through all of that at home, in the States, but there is DEFINITELY something psychologically unnerving about being away from home. It didn't ruin our trip, because the kids were always pretty upbeat and reassurring when we talked to them each day, but it most assurredly damped our enthusiasm a bit!

Nearly done ...

More to Come

Bob

pastyp

Bob, am genuinely glad to hear that both babies are doing well. I have followed your trip and love every minute. You tell it with such warmth and paint the picture so well that we are there along with you for the trip.

Thank you for posting and also for all the great advice you give to others.

Itallian_Chauffer

LAST FULL DAY:

We left Killarney on the N21, enroute to Bunratty. We stopped into the Tourist Office in Adare for some last minute shopping and then strolled around the town and the park. From the rear parking lot, we walked back into town and dropped into a charming little restraunt. The name escapes me now, but it was only a block or so from the car park and almost directly across the street from one of Adare's hallmark, thatched roof buildings (housing, naturally enough, upscale gift shops), next door to a pharmacy. It was part of one long, interconnected building, although the structure immediately to the left had just recently been demolished, pending some sort of upscale, new construction.
We had some delectable toasted sandwhiches and soup, but the brown bread they served was probably the very best that I have ever tasted. When we complemented the server, she told us that the baker has won several awards for his brown bread. We asked if we could purchase a whole loaf to take with us and our server (who I believe was actually the owner) said that she would see if there was enough to spare. She returned a few moments later with a full loaf, double wrapped in foil and imformed us that it was a complementry GIFT and was adamant about not letting us pay for the bread. (We smuggled it home on the plane and my father-in-law LOVED it!)
Late afternoon found us at our B&B, about a mile or so up the LOW ROAD from the Castle and Folk Park. We drove in to Kathleen's for dinner, then returned to the B&B early to get our packing settled for our departure.
Since the tank on the Renault was nearly empty, I put about four litres worth of gas in and resolved to take advantage of the 'prepaid' tankfull. We had a fine breakfast then headed off to the Airport. I dropped off my companions and the luggage, then looped back around, to the Rental Car Return. When the man came out tocheck me in, he asked how everything had gone. I told him my tale of woe about the rear tire and he walked around to the passenger side to check out the replacement. I just stood there, behind him, my eyes riveted upon the two, long, full-length scratches. The man looked carefully at the new tire, smiled and marked my contract.
"Everything looks fine," says he. "Shall I give ye a lift to the terminal?"
God, do I LOVE Ireland! It is a land, rich in contradictions, where businesses can be so incredibly, frustratingly PIG HEADED about rediculous things, like Insurance Waivers, tire damage caused by bad roads and yet, write off dents and scrapes, as "normal, and customary' wear and tear!
So all ended well, in Ireland and our flights were uneventful until we reached Orlando. There, a tornado had raged through only an hour or so before we arrived, dropping out power in the terminal and backing up numerous flights. We had to cirle the airport for about 45 minutes before there was a gate available, and then, it was so crowded and backed up that it took nearly two hours to get on to the road. John and Pam had ridden down to the airport with us, but they graciously rented a car one-way to home, so that we could instead, make a bee-line to see ouir new Grand-daughter.
It was time to pay the Piper...

Some after-thoughts to come ...

Bob

suelh

Bob -- your trip report has been great, and thanks so much for all of the effort and time you have spent to tell us of your many adventures! : )

So happy that the babies are doing much better, and we send warm wishes and blessings for continued good health for them, and all the family, too.

Cheers!
Sue

Laoghaire

Hi Bob...As usual, you have enticed me to get our my Ordinance Survey maps and follow you in Cork. I am an O'Leary, so your visit to Millstreet, Rathmore and environs interested me greatly. Have been to Inchigeelagh 6 times and my favorite guy in town is Joe Creedon. He owns and run Creedon's Hotel, and he is quite the man about town. Knows everybody and everybody knows him! When Ed and I were there in 2003, a friend of Joes', who played the piano, was in the hotel. Well Joe got him to play the piano while Joe sang "Inchigeelagh Lass" to me. Such a small thing to do, but what an emotional moment in my life! That's Ireland, and the wonderful Irish people.
Also. in Inchigeelagh, is the O'Leary Castle--Carrignacurra. So your travels around Millstreet get me to thinking that I must return in 2006, and explore. Think I wrote last year about your Drimoleague connection, and how my sister and I visited a Humphrey O'Leary (no relation, darn it) in Driminiddy, a few years ago.
So, thanks again for a memorable visit to Cork.....Helen

Itallian_Chauffer

Thanks to all for your kind comments.
Helen: Check out www.millstreet.ie for more history and info on the area.
Joan (CHATHAM): I took the liberty of sending you an email (since you display it along side your screen name). Home it is still valid.
Bob

chatham

Bob, yes I received your wonderful little book. I e-mailed you right away, but guess you didn't receive the message. I'm reading IRELAND by Frank Delaney and your book . I have one at one end of the table and the other at the other end and decide which one I want to read for about an hour. I was going to start THE YEAR OF THE FRENCH next but your writings are giving me so much enjoyment and enlightment, I'll wait awhile before I read it. I wish to thank you for sending me your work and I hope I get a chance to talk to you about it. Best Wishes, Joan

Itallian_Chauffer

Joan, et al:

Should any of you wish to contact me, my generic email address is: [email protected]

Bob

Itallian_Chauffer

Joan:
By all means, you MUST read THE YEAR OF THE FRENCH. Thomas Flanagan (RIP) was the CONSUMATE American-Irish literary artist. Did you know that there was an excellent TV mini-series made based upon his book? Sadly, it is currently only available in PAL (European standard video) and so, unviewable on U.S. VCRs and TVs. Hopefully, that will be rectified one day, soon.
After you finish THE YEAR OF THE FRENCH, look for Flanagan's second NY Time's Best Seller -- THE TENANTS OF TIME, spanning the Fenian Rising of 1867, through the Land War and the Parnell Scandals. It is well worth the read.
May you dream the dreams of Ireland, and of Her Heros, great and small ...

Bob

chatham

Dear I.C., I did read The Tenants of Time a few years ago and loved it. For some reason I haven't been able to get very far into The Year of the French. After I finish what I'm reading now, I'll give it a try again.
My Best to you, Joan

Itallian_Chauffer

Joan: THE YEAR OF THE FRENCH does start a little slow ... Also, it was incredibly PERTINENT to me and my research, at the time, and may have COLORED my enthusiasm. I may have to revisit it ...


FOR THOSE OF YOU WHOM MIGHT WISH TO KNOW:

On Tuesdy, 22 Nov, my grandson was given a preliminary "ALL CLEAR" by his Pediatric Cardiologist. I half expect that one day, he'll look me in the eyes and say: "THAT will teach you, for not being here, to greet me!!!"

But then, I'll take him to Ireland.

I think that after he experiences HER, he'll understand, and forgive me...

Bob

12perfectdays

I.C.
Thank you for a fun trip report. I had started it before I left on my trip and was finally able to finish it tonight. Very entertaining and a great read! The pictures are wonderful.

Glad to hear that the grandbabies are okay!

Dawn

Itallian_Chauffer

THIS IS FOR HELEN (Laughaire)

Check out:

http://www.inchigeelah.net

It is the Community website for Ichigeelah and surrounding area, complete with links to O'Leary history, current events AND CREEDON's HOTEL!!! My favorite website, www.millstreet.ie just posted a link to this and I immediately thought of you.
Are you still planning to return in '06? My wife and I will be arriving Shannon on the morning of 31 March and staying until the morning of 9 April. Am booking a self=catering cottage on the Sheep's Head, in Kilcrohane, about 20 minutes drive out of Bantry.
Bob

Itallian_Chauffer

TTT of irishdancemom