Round Ireland in a Mini-bus, The Guilty Pleasures Tour
Sep 18th, 2005, 08:37 PM
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Round Ireland in a Mini-bus, The Guilty Pleasures Tour
Been back from our trip since mid-June, but things have kept me absent from the boards. A detailed, no-holds-barred report WILL follow, but for now, I am posting this link to a photo albumn of PART of our trip.
www.photos.yahoo.com/remprimo
Four of us departed Orlando on 3 June, connecting in Boston with two more. We flew in and out of Shannon on American Airlines. The two that met us in Boston returned on the 11th, but we original four remained until the 15th of June. Seventh trip in six years for my wife and I, so we were well organized, with all details finely tuned and well planned.
Chaos ensued ... lives were ruined ... everything went awry ...
Can't wait to go back!!!
More to follow,
Bob
www.photos.yahoo.com/remprimo
Four of us departed Orlando on 3 June, connecting in Boston with two more. We flew in and out of Shannon on American Airlines. The two that met us in Boston returned on the 11th, but we original four remained until the 15th of June. Seventh trip in six years for my wife and I, so we were well organized, with all details finely tuned and well planned.
Chaos ensued ... lives were ruined ... everything went awry ...
Can't wait to go back!!!
More to follow,
Bob
Sep 18th, 2005, 09:11 PM
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Welcome back Itallian! Looks like you had some good weather. The self-catering place looks very nice in the photos. Is that you roasting the pig? Thanks for sharing your photos & looking forward to the details.
Sep 19th, 2005, 07:46 PM
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And so the story begins.....
The plan was simple, my wife and I would head to Ireland on the last day of school (post planning), on the early afternoon of 3 June, bringing her brother John and his wife Pam along for their first ever trip abroad. At our lay-over in Boston, my wife's cousin Dennis (who had backpacked around Ireland in 1970, as a 17 year old) and his 19 year old son Ben would join us. As this was trip seven, for my wife and I, I had done all the planning, made all the reservations, etcetera. Dennis and Ben had to return home on the 12th, but we were remaining until the 15th. I had wanted to stay longer, but our son's wife was scheduled to deliver our first grandchild on the 27th and our daughter was due to deliver around the 5th of July and my wife was nervous enough about the schedule that we compromised on the shorter trip.
I had reserved a 7 passenger Kia Sedona from Atlas Car Hire and a one week rental at a self catering house on the river at Kilorglin, Co. Kerry. In addition, we would arrive at Shannon on the morning of another suprise 40th birthday party (see my trip report from last year). The self-catering was booked Sat. to Sat. but we had planned to spend Sat and Sunday with the cousins in Cork (Watergrasshill) then do a ciruitous, driving tour through West Cork on Monday, enroute to Kilorglin. From there, we planned to day trip to Killarney and Dingle. with a return to Watergrasshill on the 11th. On the 12th, Dennis and Ben would head to the airport and we planned to set off exploring.
FAMOUS QUOTE:
"No battle plan survives first contact with the enemy."
My wife and I have undoubtably won 'WORST GRANDPARENTS OF THE YEAR'. At 4 AM we were NOT awoken by my son-in-law's frantic call that he was chasing the ambulance toward the hospital. We DID, however, hear the phone rin an hour later to tell us that our grand-daughter had just arrived (32 days early), and that daughter and grand-daughter were both fine. Our immediate response was to cancel the trip and rush toward South Florida, but ...
ALL the reservations and deposits were in my name, the discount tickets were non-refundable, the cousin's had scheduled the party around our travel dates ... AND ... our son-in-law urged us to go ahead with our trip, as he was taking the next two weeks off from work anyway ... AND ... our daughter graciously insisted we go, as well. We had taken them with us the previous summer and both of them had fallen in love with Ireland. They're good kids, those two.
Of course, our daughter WAS heavily medicated, at the time. Dunno how much THAT factored into her magnaminity!
So, of course, we went ahead, feeling only a slight twinge of guilt that could do nothing other than grow.
More later ...
Bob
The plan was simple, my wife and I would head to Ireland on the last day of school (post planning), on the early afternoon of 3 June, bringing her brother John and his wife Pam along for their first ever trip abroad. At our lay-over in Boston, my wife's cousin Dennis (who had backpacked around Ireland in 1970, as a 17 year old) and his 19 year old son Ben would join us. As this was trip seven, for my wife and I, I had done all the planning, made all the reservations, etcetera. Dennis and Ben had to return home on the 12th, but we were remaining until the 15th. I had wanted to stay longer, but our son's wife was scheduled to deliver our first grandchild on the 27th and our daughter was due to deliver around the 5th of July and my wife was nervous enough about the schedule that we compromised on the shorter trip.
I had reserved a 7 passenger Kia Sedona from Atlas Car Hire and a one week rental at a self catering house on the river at Kilorglin, Co. Kerry. In addition, we would arrive at Shannon on the morning of another suprise 40th birthday party (see my trip report from last year). The self-catering was booked Sat. to Sat. but we had planned to spend Sat and Sunday with the cousins in Cork (Watergrasshill) then do a ciruitous, driving tour through West Cork on Monday, enroute to Kilorglin. From there, we planned to day trip to Killarney and Dingle. with a return to Watergrasshill on the 11th. On the 12th, Dennis and Ben would head to the airport and we planned to set off exploring.
FAMOUS QUOTE:
"No battle plan survives first contact with the enemy."
My wife and I have undoubtably won 'WORST GRANDPARENTS OF THE YEAR'. At 4 AM we were NOT awoken by my son-in-law's frantic call that he was chasing the ambulance toward the hospital. We DID, however, hear the phone rin an hour later to tell us that our grand-daughter had just arrived (32 days early), and that daughter and grand-daughter were both fine. Our immediate response was to cancel the trip and rush toward South Florida, but ...
ALL the reservations and deposits were in my name, the discount tickets were non-refundable, the cousin's had scheduled the party around our travel dates ... AND ... our son-in-law urged us to go ahead with our trip, as he was taking the next two weeks off from work anyway ... AND ... our daughter graciously insisted we go, as well. We had taken them with us the previous summer and both of them had fallen in love with Ireland. They're good kids, those two.
Of course, our daughter WAS heavily medicated, at the time. Dunno how much THAT factored into her magnaminity!
So, of course, we went ahead, feeling only a slight twinge of guilt that could do nothing other than grow.
More later ...
Bob
Sep 20th, 2005, 08:20 PM
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Again -
But first: No, that was not me roasting the pig, but a fella named Dick who catered both last year's party and this one. Wonderful comedian / story-teller. as well.
The self-catering house is one of four on the river bank in Killorglin, about mid-way between Dingle Town and Killarney. It's Kelliher's Riverside Holiday Homes. Fairly new, not posh, but comfortable.
Boston was uneventful, but hectic as we searched out a signal for the cell phone to check in on the status of our baby and HER baby, meet up with our companians and get ready for our flight to Shannon. The 757 narrow body was close to sold out so no joy in finding any empty seats to stretch out in, but mercifully, the flight was uneventful.
Dennis informed us that he had booked a small car for he and Ben to use for side excursions (read: 'golf')and to get back to the airport without us having to drive them (since they were leaving early). He had followed my lead and booked it through Atlas and couldn't stop raving about how friendly and efficient they had been. He was especially impressed at how Atlas had phoned him that very morning, to verify his flight number and arrival time. I was pretty impressed too, though I must confess that a small TOUCH of apprehension furrowed my brow, as they hadn't phone me about MY reservation. Still, I had my confirmation email and a good memory from a previous rental that had gone well, so I shook it off.
It was cold and rainy when we landed at Shannon, about 8 AM. I left the group to deal with the luggage and breezed through Customs and Immigration, to beat the crowds to the rental desk and indulge my thwarted desire for burnt tobbaco. As I entered the Arrivals Hall, I heard a page for Dennis and mid-way to the rental counters, I spied a woman holding up a sign with HIS name on it.
"Are you looking for Dennis ____?" I asked.
"Yes", she replied. "I'm with Atlas Car Rental -- here to deliver his auto. Are you him?"
"No, but he's with our group", says I. "He'll be along shortly. But I have a reservation, too. Are you delivering my vehicle, as well?"
Her look spoke volumes, and every page of it spelled out TRAGEDY.
"But, we weren't expecting YOU until later this afternoon," she muttered. I must admit, I muttered a few things myself, but I don't think that I will repeat them, here.
The upshot was that she secured us a Renault Scenic from Irish Car Rentals and we finally hit the soggy streets about 9:30. The four of us were quite comfortable in the Renault, though it is substantially smaller than the Kia I had reserved. We decided we could live with it, since Dennis and Ben had their own vehicle, and after a brief stop in Bunratty to do a 'we're in a foreign country, dead-tired and driving on the wrong side of the road in unfamiliar vehicles' "reality check", we set off toward Limmerick, searching for a place to stop for breakfast.By the time we got back on the road, the rain had stopped completely. By the time we reached Cork City, the sky had turned blue and the sun was shining brightly.
We checked into Ashgrove House B&B in Watergrasshill for quick showers and naps, after phoning up the cousins to make arraingements to meet.
Next -- LET THE PARTY BEGIN!
More to follow
Bob
But first: No, that was not me roasting the pig, but a fella named Dick who catered both last year's party and this one. Wonderful comedian / story-teller. as well.
The self-catering house is one of four on the river bank in Killorglin, about mid-way between Dingle Town and Killarney. It's Kelliher's Riverside Holiday Homes. Fairly new, not posh, but comfortable.
Boston was uneventful, but hectic as we searched out a signal for the cell phone to check in on the status of our baby and HER baby, meet up with our companians and get ready for our flight to Shannon. The 757 narrow body was close to sold out so no joy in finding any empty seats to stretch out in, but mercifully, the flight was uneventful.
Dennis informed us that he had booked a small car for he and Ben to use for side excursions (read: 'golf')and to get back to the airport without us having to drive them (since they were leaving early). He had followed my lead and booked it through Atlas and couldn't stop raving about how friendly and efficient they had been. He was especially impressed at how Atlas had phoned him that very morning, to verify his flight number and arrival time. I was pretty impressed too, though I must confess that a small TOUCH of apprehension furrowed my brow, as they hadn't phone me about MY reservation. Still, I had my confirmation email and a good memory from a previous rental that had gone well, so I shook it off.
It was cold and rainy when we landed at Shannon, about 8 AM. I left the group to deal with the luggage and breezed through Customs and Immigration, to beat the crowds to the rental desk and indulge my thwarted desire for burnt tobbaco. As I entered the Arrivals Hall, I heard a page for Dennis and mid-way to the rental counters, I spied a woman holding up a sign with HIS name on it.
"Are you looking for Dennis ____?" I asked.
"Yes", she replied. "I'm with Atlas Car Rental -- here to deliver his auto. Are you him?"
"No, but he's with our group", says I. "He'll be along shortly. But I have a reservation, too. Are you delivering my vehicle, as well?"
Her look spoke volumes, and every page of it spelled out TRAGEDY.
"But, we weren't expecting YOU until later this afternoon," she muttered. I must admit, I muttered a few things myself, but I don't think that I will repeat them, here.
The upshot was that she secured us a Renault Scenic from Irish Car Rentals and we finally hit the soggy streets about 9:30. The four of us were quite comfortable in the Renault, though it is substantially smaller than the Kia I had reserved. We decided we could live with it, since Dennis and Ben had their own vehicle, and after a brief stop in Bunratty to do a 'we're in a foreign country, dead-tired and driving on the wrong side of the road in unfamiliar vehicles' "reality check", we set off toward Limmerick, searching for a place to stop for breakfast.By the time we got back on the road, the rain had stopped completely. By the time we reached Cork City, the sky had turned blue and the sun was shining brightly.
We checked into Ashgrove House B&B in Watergrasshill for quick showers and naps, after phoning up the cousins to make arraingements to meet.
Next -- LET THE PARTY BEGIN!
More to follow
Bob
Sep 22nd, 2005, 07:17 PM
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That afternoon (Sat, 4 June), we finally got through to our daughter via cell phone and her husband promised to email some digital pix to us via the Irish cousins. Then we set off for Sean's house with minimal guilt pangs. After warm greetings, we were dragged to the kitchen table, were we were fed graciously and abundantly.
The large back yard had been turned into a gigantic party venue. They had set up a giant (30 by 60, at least) tent in the far corner of the yard, to house the three DJ's, a buffet table and the open bar, that would still provide ample room for dancing. In the far right corner was a huge bonfire area, ringed in by rows of hay bales. Closer in to the house were numerous set ups of patio furniture table and chairs. Off to the left side was a 10 x 10 canopy, beneath which, Dick 'The Pig Man', had been hard at work since early in the day, slow roasting a whole pig, to his customary level of perfection.
Most of the younger cousins scurried about, putting together the finishing touches of auxillary lighting, portable radiant heaters, trash bins and decorations.
The guest of honor was at a day spa and beauty parlor, getting herself all done up for her niece's christening (which, as it turned out, was not actually scheduled). All the prep and set up had been done after she had left that morning. When she finally arrived at 7 PM, WAS SHE EVER SUPRISED!!!
The food was to die forand the party atmosphere was totally infectious. Even the normally staid and quiet young Ben was soon having a raucous good time. The young DJ were apparantly quite reknowned in the area. All three are talented singers and used their kareoki (sp?) equiptment to good advantage. About 10 or so, they turned the microphone over to Dick, who regaled the crowd with several lengthy and bitterly funny stories. It is interesting to note that nearly everyone -- young and old alike -- listened and genuinely enjoyed Dick's interlude. Sone after, numerous party goers made their way to the microphone to try their hand (as it were) a sarenading the crowd with old ballads, pop favorites and,of course, a requisite number of Elvis tunes. Some were suprisingly good and some were, well, not so much, but no one seemed to mind, neither listeners, nor perpretators.
We had come prepared THIS year, we thought. We wouldn't 'wimp out' at 1 or 1:30 like we did last year. Still, by 3:30 we were finally undone, creeping back to our B&B to collapse.
The party went on without the Yanks. I found out later, that they served a wonderful breakfast, about 7:30.
Ah, well. Sean's third daughter turns 40 in 2007. Maybe, if we start training for it now, we might manage to weather THAT party, in its entirety!
More to follow.
Bob
The large back yard had been turned into a gigantic party venue. They had set up a giant (30 by 60, at least) tent in the far corner of the yard, to house the three DJ's, a buffet table and the open bar, that would still provide ample room for dancing. In the far right corner was a huge bonfire area, ringed in by rows of hay bales. Closer in to the house were numerous set ups of patio furniture table and chairs. Off to the left side was a 10 x 10 canopy, beneath which, Dick 'The Pig Man', had been hard at work since early in the day, slow roasting a whole pig, to his customary level of perfection.
Most of the younger cousins scurried about, putting together the finishing touches of auxillary lighting, portable radiant heaters, trash bins and decorations.
The guest of honor was at a day spa and beauty parlor, getting herself all done up for her niece's christening (which, as it turned out, was not actually scheduled). All the prep and set up had been done after she had left that morning. When she finally arrived at 7 PM, WAS SHE EVER SUPRISED!!!
The food was to die forand the party atmosphere was totally infectious. Even the normally staid and quiet young Ben was soon having a raucous good time. The young DJ were apparantly quite reknowned in the area. All three are talented singers and used their kareoki (sp?) equiptment to good advantage. About 10 or so, they turned the microphone over to Dick, who regaled the crowd with several lengthy and bitterly funny stories. It is interesting to note that nearly everyone -- young and old alike -- listened and genuinely enjoyed Dick's interlude. Sone after, numerous party goers made their way to the microphone to try their hand (as it were) a sarenading the crowd with old ballads, pop favorites and,of course, a requisite number of Elvis tunes. Some were suprisingly good and some were, well, not so much, but no one seemed to mind, neither listeners, nor perpretators.
We had come prepared THIS year, we thought. We wouldn't 'wimp out' at 1 or 1:30 like we did last year. Still, by 3:30 we were finally undone, creeping back to our B&B to collapse.
The party went on without the Yanks. I found out later, that they served a wonderful breakfast, about 7:30.
Ah, well. Sean's third daughter turns 40 in 2007. Maybe, if we start training for it now, we might manage to weather THAT party, in its entirety!
More to follow.
Bob
Sep 26th, 2005, 10:46 AM
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Day Two: Recovery
We spent a liesurely Sunday making phone calls home and recovering from the night before. As the youngster and the ladies napped, I drove the guys up into Fermoy for a brief walkabout, so my brother-in-law could search out a few cigars. Upon our return to the B&B, we decended upon the cousins for some quiet time visiting. Had to drag our traveling companions away so that our hosts might finally get some well-needed rest. Our Ireland newbies couldn't believe that it was almost 10:30 PM, since the sun light had not yet fully faded! Ireland in the summer will do that.
We've found that the early afternoon nap of an hour or two on the day of arrival really does an excellent job of minimizing/eliminating problems with jet lag. I heartily recommend it for all.
John, Dennis and I walked down the street to the Fir Tree Pub, for a bedtime pint. We seemed to be quite welcome, as the "Yank" cousins, from the party. Pip, an off-duty barman had been the bartender at the party and he made it a point to introduce us to all his mates. We spent a pleasant hour or so reminicing and telling tall tales about the party, each other, our Irish cousins and the locals at the pub. Pip was getting ready to move to Australia (I suppose he has probably left, by now), so lots of well-wishers stopped by to have a word and Pip dragged them into our conversation.
Really hated to call it a night, but
it was getting late, and West Cork and Kerry were awaiting us in the morning.
We spent a liesurely Sunday making phone calls home and recovering from the night before. As the youngster and the ladies napped, I drove the guys up into Fermoy for a brief walkabout, so my brother-in-law could search out a few cigars. Upon our return to the B&B, we decended upon the cousins for some quiet time visiting. Had to drag our traveling companions away so that our hosts might finally get some well-needed rest. Our Ireland newbies couldn't believe that it was almost 10:30 PM, since the sun light had not yet fully faded! Ireland in the summer will do that.
We've found that the early afternoon nap of an hour or two on the day of arrival really does an excellent job of minimizing/eliminating problems with jet lag. I heartily recommend it for all.
John, Dennis and I walked down the street to the Fir Tree Pub, for a bedtime pint. We seemed to be quite welcome, as the "Yank" cousins, from the party. Pip, an off-duty barman had been the bartender at the party and he made it a point to introduce us to all his mates. We spent a pleasant hour or so reminicing and telling tall tales about the party, each other, our Irish cousins and the locals at the pub. Pip was getting ready to move to Australia (I suppose he has probably left, by now), so lots of well-wishers stopped by to have a word and Pip dragged them into our conversation.
Really hated to call it a night, but
it was getting late, and West Cork and Kerry were awaiting us in the morning.
Sep 26th, 2005, 08:40 PM
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Day Three: INTO THE WEST
After a lovely breakfast, we bid adieu to Mary Cronin's B&B. When we asked to settle our bill, she asked if 25 Euro PPS per night was acceptible to us! God, we love that woman.
My wife's granmother was born in the hills surrounding Drimoleague. We drove our little mini-caravan out through Cork City and took the West Cork route through Bandon and Dunmanway and on into the village of Drimoleague. We took an early lunch break for soup and sandwiches at the Drimoleague Inn and let John and Dennis soak up a little of the village atmosphere, before leading them to the Catholic cemetary where their great-grandmother is buried. Then I drove them off into the wilds, meandering off onto a boreen off of a dirt road off of a semi-paved one. Then we found it -- the 100+ year old farmhouse of Cousin Liam. Liam is a retired school teacher from Cork City who had only been too eager to leave the farm in his youth. Years later, he heard it calling him back and he bought this place, so that his children wouldn't grow up as purely 'city kids'. They spent their summers there and Liam wiles away many a weekend there as well. If you've seen the pictures I linked to this, you may understand why.
Liam's youngest son was there and we spent about an hour or so visiting with him and walking about the place, soaking up the scenery. Liam keeps a small herd of cows. It's considered impolite to ask about the size of a man's property, so I'm not really certain how much land is with the house and just how much pasture is held in commonage, but it is a soothing and amply satisfing place. There is a rath, or stone ring, 'fairy fort' in the lower field, heavily overgrown with brush but otherwise undisturbed, and you can see Castle Donovon off in the distance.
After we left the farm, we rejoined the "main" road and drove past Deelish, past the Castle and on, up the mountain. If you've read my "11 DAY JUNE TRIP REPORT (2004)", you can plot out the route, but --- IT'S NO ROUTE FOR THE SQUEAMISH!!! Along the road we saw numerous sheep and even a lively, red fox.
I led them through the switchbacks and along the narrow, muddy track that crawls up to the top, and then down again, into the valley of Coomleigh. It is here, that the OTHER Cousin Sean lives; this place is home to the infamous sheep shearing incident of 2004. I stop to point out the landmarks - Sean's farm, Nowen Hill and the barns and homes of the people my wife and I have come to know, but then we turn left, instead of right and make our way into Bantry. Before our trip, Sean had told us that he had "something really special" planned for this visit, but he had fallen ill in May. We drove on, to the hospital, in order to visit him.
More to come ...
After a lovely breakfast, we bid adieu to Mary Cronin's B&B. When we asked to settle our bill, she asked if 25 Euro PPS per night was acceptible to us! God, we love that woman.
My wife's granmother was born in the hills surrounding Drimoleague. We drove our little mini-caravan out through Cork City and took the West Cork route through Bandon and Dunmanway and on into the village of Drimoleague. We took an early lunch break for soup and sandwiches at the Drimoleague Inn and let John and Dennis soak up a little of the village atmosphere, before leading them to the Catholic cemetary where their great-grandmother is buried. Then I drove them off into the wilds, meandering off onto a boreen off of a dirt road off of a semi-paved one. Then we found it -- the 100+ year old farmhouse of Cousin Liam. Liam is a retired school teacher from Cork City who had only been too eager to leave the farm in his youth. Years later, he heard it calling him back and he bought this place, so that his children wouldn't grow up as purely 'city kids'. They spent their summers there and Liam wiles away many a weekend there as well. If you've seen the pictures I linked to this, you may understand why.
Liam's youngest son was there and we spent about an hour or so visiting with him and walking about the place, soaking up the scenery. Liam keeps a small herd of cows. It's considered impolite to ask about the size of a man's property, so I'm not really certain how much land is with the house and just how much pasture is held in commonage, but it is a soothing and amply satisfing place. There is a rath, or stone ring, 'fairy fort' in the lower field, heavily overgrown with brush but otherwise undisturbed, and you can see Castle Donovon off in the distance.
After we left the farm, we rejoined the "main" road and drove past Deelish, past the Castle and on, up the mountain. If you've read my "11 DAY JUNE TRIP REPORT (2004)", you can plot out the route, but --- IT'S NO ROUTE FOR THE SQUEAMISH!!! Along the road we saw numerous sheep and even a lively, red fox.
I led them through the switchbacks and along the narrow, muddy track that crawls up to the top, and then down again, into the valley of Coomleigh. It is here, that the OTHER Cousin Sean lives; this place is home to the infamous sheep shearing incident of 2004. I stop to point out the landmarks - Sean's farm, Nowen Hill and the barns and homes of the people my wife and I have come to know, but then we turn left, instead of right and make our way into Bantry. Before our trip, Sean had told us that he had "something really special" planned for this visit, but he had fallen ill in May. We drove on, to the hospital, in order to visit him.
More to come ...
Sep 27th, 2005, 05:23 PM
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Shadow: The 'cousins' in this case are the first cousins of my wife's FATHER, and are in their 70's and 80's. While we are closer in age to their children (whom I also refer to as cousins, for simplicity's sake), you can see that the actual relationship is slightly more tenuous. Sean is almost 82 as I write this and still as alive and unique as ever. He is an unrepentant bachelor that has a tendancy to to be a bit bruske and, at times, difficult. For some reason he has developed a strong attatchment to my wife and I and to the suprise of many of his friends, relatives and neighbors, he has gone to GREAT lengths to be excedingly gracious and welcoming to us. Now that he is retired from farming, he usually just sits by the open fire in his parlour and chain smokes as he shouts and yells at the newsreaders on the television. While he was in hospital, he wasn't allowed to smoke, of course, and actually seemed quite fit as we met with him.
Day Two: CONTINUING FURTHER INTO THE WEST
While we were having a very nice and reassuring visit, Sean took my wife aside and apologized that he wasn't able to show us his 'suprise' as planned. Don't tell any of his cousins, though. The last time that we mentioned that Sean had apologized to us for not spending enough time with us, one of the older cousins - with a look of shocked disbelief on her face, crossed herself and said: "God save him. He must be near death."
The Irish, on whole, DO have a WICKED sense of humor, but I swear that she seemed totally sincere.
At the hospital, we met up with anouther cousin Dennis, that had come to check in on Sean. He went with us to the Bantry Hotel for coffee and desert, while we opted for an early dinner. My sister in law mentioned her disappointment that the hotel had run out of rubarb pie, so while we were settling up the bill, Dennis dashed off to a local shop and returned with not one, but SIX whole rubarb pies -- one for each of us!
After we said our thank yous and goodbyes, we headed out of town, through the Caha Pass into Killarney. Along the way we stopped at the Quill's in Glenngarriff, at Moll's Gap and Ladies' View, and once again near the entrance to Muckross House to take pictures of the small herd of Red Deer that were graving in the field along the side of the road.
By about 7PM, we were in Killorglin, getting settled into our self-catering holiday home along the bank of the river.
It would be nearly four more hours, before it actually got dark.
More to come ....
Bob
Day Two: CONTINUING FURTHER INTO THE WEST
While we were having a very nice and reassuring visit, Sean took my wife aside and apologized that he wasn't able to show us his 'suprise' as planned. Don't tell any of his cousins, though. The last time that we mentioned that Sean had apologized to us for not spending enough time with us, one of the older cousins - with a look of shocked disbelief on her face, crossed herself and said: "God save him. He must be near death."
The Irish, on whole, DO have a WICKED sense of humor, but I swear that she seemed totally sincere.
At the hospital, we met up with anouther cousin Dennis, that had come to check in on Sean. He went with us to the Bantry Hotel for coffee and desert, while we opted for an early dinner. My sister in law mentioned her disappointment that the hotel had run out of rubarb pie, so while we were settling up the bill, Dennis dashed off to a local shop and returned with not one, but SIX whole rubarb pies -- one for each of us!
After we said our thank yous and goodbyes, we headed out of town, through the Caha Pass into Killarney. Along the way we stopped at the Quill's in Glenngarriff, at Moll's Gap and Ladies' View, and once again near the entrance to Muckross House to take pictures of the small herd of Red Deer that were graving in the field along the side of the road.
By about 7PM, we were in Killorglin, getting settled into our self-catering holiday home along the bank of the river.
It would be nearly four more hours, before it actually got dark.
More to come ....
Bob
Sep 28th, 2005, 03:08 AM
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SEan sounds like a relation of a few people I know. While his family and friends may be shocked at his kindness I am not. Sometimes it's easier for them to become close to someone who was a stranget as they do not have the preconcieved notions the other have about him. Your wife must be a lovely lady if he choose here to open up too. It's hard for a man like that of 82 to change his ways 
Keep going sounds like a lovely trip.
Keep going sounds like a lovely trip.
Sep 28th, 2005, 08:04 PM
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Thanks to all for the kind words, and for your indulgence. SiohbanP: While many might be / are amazed by Sean's treatment of my wife and I, I am not. My wife's father Jack is our Irish link. His father was born in Millstreet, and his mother came from Drimoleague. Back in the early 70's all Jack's siblings made their way to Ireland, except for him. With nine children to raise, he could spare neither the time, nor the money. For his 40th wedding anniversary, all of us chipped in to give them the money to go, but Chernoble happened and the US bombing of Libya and the chose to travel domestically, instead.
In 1999, my wife demanded that WE go to Ireland and we bullied and cajoled Jack into coming with us. He was 81 and his eyesight was growing pretty dim, but he finally made the trip, to the great joy of the Irish cousins. The next summer, we took Jack and his wife with us, again.
Now, in 2005, Jack is 87 and nearly blind. That monumental a trip is beyond him. But Sean has great affection for us, I've no doubt -- because WE brought Jack Doody "home".
More to come ...
Bob
In 1999, my wife demanded that WE go to Ireland and we bullied and cajoled Jack into coming with us. He was 81 and his eyesight was growing pretty dim, but he finally made the trip, to the great joy of the Irish cousins. The next summer, we took Jack and his wife with us, again.
Now, in 2005, Jack is 87 and nearly blind. That monumental a trip is beyond him. But Sean has great affection for us, I've no doubt -- because WE brought Jack Doody "home".
More to come ...
Bob
Sep 29th, 2005, 02:42 AM
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That's a great story. Its sad because many of their generation never went back even for a visit after leaving. I remember years ago in the Bronx you would see these old guys with Cork and Kerry accents just like they were off the boat and they would have been over for 20-30 years without ever returning. When on occasion someone did go for a visit to Ireland they were unhappy with how much things changed and it was not the same as when they left. It was sad really as many never returned. I am lucky that most of my fathers family stayed in Ireland and we did go back a few times. You visits to Sean obivously mean a lot to him. Please more!
Sep 29th, 2005, 07:27 AM
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Hello, Bob -- your tale has been such an enjoyment to read, and now your latest chapter re bringing "Jack Doody home" is the best!
You really ought to think about publishing this short story of Sean, et al -- perhaps in the magazine, "Ireland of the Welcomes?" Cheers!
Sue
You really ought to think about publishing this short story of Sean, et al -- perhaps in the magazine, "Ireland of the Welcomes?" Cheers!
Sue
Sep 29th, 2005, 06:25 PM
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Day Three: R&R
Dennis, Ben and John had brought their golf clubs, so the ventured out Tues. morning in single-minded dedication. They had their hearts and minds set upon a round at Dooks, but somehow ended, instead, challenging the couse in Killorglin. Dennis swears that it wasn't that he couldn't find his way to Dooks, but I have my doubts.
While they were off on their adventure, I drove the ladies into Killarney. Two of the cousins (both last year's and this year's birthday girls) had rang us up, suggesting that we meet for lunch.
After a bit of shopping and a quick drop in to the internet shop next to the Tourist Office, we met the cousins and retired to the Granary for a liesurely chat unencumbered by the distractions of the partying masses. While the ladies chatted, I slipped out to the little shopping arcade sandwiched between the Granary and the Tesco. Just to the right at the top of the stairs leading to the second floor, is a music store (the name escapes me, but I've had good luck finding things there, in the past). Good to my hunch, they actually had a few copies of an obsure cassette tape by the defunct group GLIONDAR. I snatched up two eagerly, as the former lead singer of GLIONDAR was / is my wife's and my very dear friend, Ciaran Wynne (see my 11 Day June Trip Report). Recognizing a good thing, the salesman also sold me a copy of a new CD by Eugene Brosnan (SOLID GROUND)---- which is not bad, and the newest CD by a group called ALANNA, titled BLURRING THE LINE. He said I might like it since most of the members of ALANNA (excluding the lead singer, Catherine Teahan) were former members of GLIONDAR. The clerk was mistaken. After giving the CD a quick listen, I didn't like it -- I was SMITTEN! What a great sounding CD. Everyone should own a copy. Put it along side NO WAY HOME and TURQUOISE & BROWN, by Ciaran Wynne and expect to play them in heavy rotation. My wife and I love music (of all kinds), but we can't go too long without a frequent 'dose' from one of these three CDs.
After scoring my little stash of musical treasure(s), a hurried back to the Granary, where the conversation had gone on unabated and managed to snatch the tab away from our over-generous cousins. Luch lasted for a couple of hours, until the cousins reluctantly addmitted that they reall needed to leave, if they were ever going to make it to Tralee (AND BACK HOME) as they had intended.
We made our way back to Killorglin after that, arriving just as the lads were returning. After time for clean up, phone calls home and a bit of discussion about our respective days, we all set off in the Renault, for dinner in Millstreet.
The Renault Scenic is a wonderful touring vehicle for four adults. It sits high up, has lots of glass all around (including a large sunroof) ANDprovides Great visibility. The seats are spacious and comfortable and the power is smooth and well suited to all types of conditions. It is a GREAT Touring Vehicle --- for FOUR adults.
For six (three of them tall adult males, it is not so great. There are two akwardly situated jump seats that fold up out of the floor of the cargo area that perport to convert the Scenic to a seven passenger -- IF THREE OF THOSE ARE MIGETS !!!
More to come ...
Bob
Dennis, Ben and John had brought their golf clubs, so the ventured out Tues. morning in single-minded dedication. They had their hearts and minds set upon a round at Dooks, but somehow ended, instead, challenging the couse in Killorglin. Dennis swears that it wasn't that he couldn't find his way to Dooks, but I have my doubts.
While they were off on their adventure, I drove the ladies into Killarney. Two of the cousins (both last year's and this year's birthday girls) had rang us up, suggesting that we meet for lunch.
After a bit of shopping and a quick drop in to the internet shop next to the Tourist Office, we met the cousins and retired to the Granary for a liesurely chat unencumbered by the distractions of the partying masses. While the ladies chatted, I slipped out to the little shopping arcade sandwiched between the Granary and the Tesco. Just to the right at the top of the stairs leading to the second floor, is a music store (the name escapes me, but I've had good luck finding things there, in the past). Good to my hunch, they actually had a few copies of an obsure cassette tape by the defunct group GLIONDAR. I snatched up two eagerly, as the former lead singer of GLIONDAR was / is my wife's and my very dear friend, Ciaran Wynne (see my 11 Day June Trip Report). Recognizing a good thing, the salesman also sold me a copy of a new CD by Eugene Brosnan (SOLID GROUND)---- which is not bad, and the newest CD by a group called ALANNA, titled BLURRING THE LINE. He said I might like it since most of the members of ALANNA (excluding the lead singer, Catherine Teahan) were former members of GLIONDAR. The clerk was mistaken. After giving the CD a quick listen, I didn't like it -- I was SMITTEN! What a great sounding CD. Everyone should own a copy. Put it along side NO WAY HOME and TURQUOISE & BROWN, by Ciaran Wynne and expect to play them in heavy rotation. My wife and I love music (of all kinds), but we can't go too long without a frequent 'dose' from one of these three CDs.
After scoring my little stash of musical treasure(s), a hurried back to the Granary, where the conversation had gone on unabated and managed to snatch the tab away from our over-generous cousins. Luch lasted for a couple of hours, until the cousins reluctantly addmitted that they reall needed to leave, if they were ever going to make it to Tralee (AND BACK HOME) as they had intended.
We made our way back to Killorglin after that, arriving just as the lads were returning. After time for clean up, phone calls home and a bit of discussion about our respective days, we all set off in the Renault, for dinner in Millstreet.
The Renault Scenic is a wonderful touring vehicle for four adults. It sits high up, has lots of glass all around (including a large sunroof) ANDprovides Great visibility. The seats are spacious and comfortable and the power is smooth and well suited to all types of conditions. It is a GREAT Touring Vehicle --- for FOUR adults.
For six (three of them tall adult males, it is not so great. There are two akwardly situated jump seats that fold up out of the floor of the cargo area that perport to convert the Scenic to a seven passenger -- IF THREE OF THOSE ARE MIGETS !!!
More to come ...
Bob
Sep 30th, 2005, 07:26 PM
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Ooops! Day Three was Into the West, Day Four was R&R.
Here's the Rest of Day Four:
With all six of us loaded into the Renault, I drove back toward Killarney. Just NW of the town, I bore East on the N72 (Killarney - Mallow Road)and followed it into Rathmore. We stopped at the church so that everyone might see where the Great-Grandparents were married in 1865. The church has been remodeled and renovated numerous times since then - most recently, in 2000 - 2002, but there is a touching memorial etched into the wall to the side of the altar, commemorating Father Walsh, who spearheaded the original construction and also officiated at the aforementioned wedding. In typical, rish pragmatism (and practicality), the old church that this building replaced, is now the Old Chapel Pub.
After leaving the church, we drove further East on the R582 and the less traveled road into Millstreet. As I drive, my passengers drink in the wondrous sights -- the Cadbury Chocolat Plant, the inspiring vision of The Paps and the singular magisty of Clara Mountain. Good guide that I am, the names of townlands -- Knocknaloman, Ballydaly, Claratlea, Gortavehy, Ivale, Toorenbawn and Caherbarnagh -- tumble past my lips. Each of these places were home to the laborer Timothy, and his Mary, the young dairy maid, that he wed. These are the places, where the ancestors did dwell. I think they found it meaningful. I think that they were touched. I only know that I, who can claim not a single drop of Irish blood, cannot pass this way unmoved. For me, this is a magical place; a place that resonates within my soul. The hills and vales and mountains call out: 'Here, there be Giants!'. And my sould cannot help but agree.
In Millstreet Town, I took them to the "attractions: Turbrid Holy Well - the 2nd largest spring head in the British Isles, the Award-winning Millstreet Railway Station - north of town, past the lovely River Finnow, Green Glens Arena -- Venue for Irland's 1993 hosting of Eurovision ( and the former estate of the McCarthy - O'Learys), Drishane Castle (once a McCarthy stronghold, appropriated by the English Wallis family after the Restoration), and the old O'Keefe fortress at Kilmedey.
The marvelous O'Connor's eatery has closed, much to my sadness, but Jerry is now chef at The Wallis Arms, so I take our group there for a terrific dinner. After dinner, I drive us out the Old Butter Road (just resurfaced to ease traffic and encourage tourism) onto Mushera. The Butter Road was built in the 1700's as a toll-road, running almost arrow straight from Killarney, past Blarney, into Cork City. Almost exactly 1/2 way between is Millstreet, and until the advent of the railroads, it was a major source of food and lodging to nearly all 18th and 19th century tourists.
High up on Mushera, in the townland of Knocknakilla, I introduced our group to their first close up experience with a dolmen, standing stones, stone rings and stone circles. A liesurely drive back to Killorglin brought our day to an end.
More to come ...
Bob
Here's the Rest of Day Four:
With all six of us loaded into the Renault, I drove back toward Killarney. Just NW of the town, I bore East on the N72 (Killarney - Mallow Road)and followed it into Rathmore. We stopped at the church so that everyone might see where the Great-Grandparents were married in 1865. The church has been remodeled and renovated numerous times since then - most recently, in 2000 - 2002, but there is a touching memorial etched into the wall to the side of the altar, commemorating Father Walsh, who spearheaded the original construction and also officiated at the aforementioned wedding. In typical, rish pragmatism (and practicality), the old church that this building replaced, is now the Old Chapel Pub.
After leaving the church, we drove further East on the R582 and the less traveled road into Millstreet. As I drive, my passengers drink in the wondrous sights -- the Cadbury Chocolat Plant, the inspiring vision of The Paps and the singular magisty of Clara Mountain. Good guide that I am, the names of townlands -- Knocknaloman, Ballydaly, Claratlea, Gortavehy, Ivale, Toorenbawn and Caherbarnagh -- tumble past my lips. Each of these places were home to the laborer Timothy, and his Mary, the young dairy maid, that he wed. These are the places, where the ancestors did dwell. I think they found it meaningful. I think that they were touched. I only know that I, who can claim not a single drop of Irish blood, cannot pass this way unmoved. For me, this is a magical place; a place that resonates within my soul. The hills and vales and mountains call out: 'Here, there be Giants!'. And my sould cannot help but agree.
In Millstreet Town, I took them to the "attractions: Turbrid Holy Well - the 2nd largest spring head in the British Isles, the Award-winning Millstreet Railway Station - north of town, past the lovely River Finnow, Green Glens Arena -- Venue for Irland's 1993 hosting of Eurovision ( and the former estate of the McCarthy - O'Learys), Drishane Castle (once a McCarthy stronghold, appropriated by the English Wallis family after the Restoration), and the old O'Keefe fortress at Kilmedey.
The marvelous O'Connor's eatery has closed, much to my sadness, but Jerry is now chef at The Wallis Arms, so I take our group there for a terrific dinner. After dinner, I drive us out the Old Butter Road (just resurfaced to ease traffic and encourage tourism) onto Mushera. The Butter Road was built in the 1700's as a toll-road, running almost arrow straight from Killarney, past Blarney, into Cork City. Almost exactly 1/2 way between is Millstreet, and until the advent of the railroads, it was a major source of food and lodging to nearly all 18th and 19th century tourists.
High up on Mushera, in the townland of Knocknakilla, I introduced our group to their first close up experience with a dolmen, standing stones, stone rings and stone circles. A liesurely drive back to Killorglin brought our day to an end.
More to come ...
Bob
Oct 1st, 2005, 06:35 PM
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Day Five: Weds, 8 June
Dennis and Ben left early on an independant sojourn to Galway to check out UCG as a possible venue as a Semester abroad. Armed by disappointing news from home that Grand=daughter had developed severe jaundice, the Florida Four headed into Killarney. A stop in to the Internet shop yielded a number of endearing photos of the little miss, which only SOMEWHAT assuaged her Grandmother's guilt at being absent. Our daughter was growing quite upset by her new daughter's health coupled with her Mother's absence. As there was little we could do, short of having my wife return to the US, either: a) alone, b)on Sat with Dennis and Ben (at least as far as Boston), or c)tough it out and stay the course, we opted to scratch a), and keep option b) open.
After some shopping, we stopped in to the Tourist Office and booked four tickets for the Deros Gap of Dunloe Tour for the following morning. Ben is alergic to horses, so they had decided to schedule another golf trip during our absence.
Early afternoon found us at Muckross House, were we toured the House, Gardens and the Traditional Farms. It was a glorious day, 73 - 74 degrees (F) and a bright, blue sky. The Farms weren't very crowded, so we had the opportunity to talk in debth with the resident staff.
After a great afternoon we drove back into Killorglin. Dennis and Ben returned about 7ish, and we made our way to Dev's on the Square, for a delicious, if a bit pricey, supper. Food and service were excellent.
Evening found us sitting on the back deck, sharing stories and watching the river flow by.
More to come ...
Bob
Dennis and Ben left early on an independant sojourn to Galway to check out UCG as a possible venue as a Semester abroad. Armed by disappointing news from home that Grand=daughter had developed severe jaundice, the Florida Four headed into Killarney. A stop in to the Internet shop yielded a number of endearing photos of the little miss, which only SOMEWHAT assuaged her Grandmother's guilt at being absent. Our daughter was growing quite upset by her new daughter's health coupled with her Mother's absence. As there was little we could do, short of having my wife return to the US, either: a) alone, b)on Sat with Dennis and Ben (at least as far as Boston), or c)tough it out and stay the course, we opted to scratch a), and keep option b) open.
After some shopping, we stopped in to the Tourist Office and booked four tickets for the Deros Gap of Dunloe Tour for the following morning. Ben is alergic to horses, so they had decided to schedule another golf trip during our absence.
Early afternoon found us at Muckross House, were we toured the House, Gardens and the Traditional Farms. It was a glorious day, 73 - 74 degrees (F) and a bright, blue sky. The Farms weren't very crowded, so we had the opportunity to talk in debth with the resident staff.
After a great afternoon we drove back into Killorglin. Dennis and Ben returned about 7ish, and we made our way to Dev's on the Square, for a delicious, if a bit pricey, supper. Food and service were excellent.
Evening found us sitting on the back deck, sharing stories and watching the river flow by.
More to come ...
Bob
