nessundorma

AndieB,

If you're going up through Umbria, a town like Bevagna, which Franco mentioned, can be a good target, depending on how you want to break your stops. Most tourists are heading for more famous places, so looking for a B&B or a farm stay around a lesser known town is a good bet.

Maybe Franco knows some.

But it's also possible you'll want to pass it by and bed down further north in order to make good time or leave time for touristing in other places.

franco

Well, I don't remember how often I have eaten at the Coccorone, but VERY often, and it's always been incredibly delicious. Courses that I remember include risotto al sagrantino (Sagrantino is the great wine nessundorma was telling about - for that, too, see my remarks in that other thread behind the link above, one of my last entries there, the very, very long one...), pasta with truffles, with porcini mushrooms ... and above all, the main courses: faraona in salmì, the best preparation of guinea fowl I've ever tasted (it's always been on the menu for years! don't miss it!), roast pigeon, several kinds of meat (above all, lamb) with truffles, coratella d'agnello (a hearty and delicious preparation of lamb giblets), and so on.
As for B&Bs, I'm sorry that I can't fulfil the expectations... I have an unbeatable private accomodation in that region that used to be a self-catering apartment once, but in the meantime, the owner has ceased to rent it regularly and rents only to friends and regular clients now...

AndieB

Franco/Ness, You guys are terrific. I need to print all this and read over and over! I will most likely have more question so stay tuned! I finally got a map and see where this is all situated. I would supposed that it`s better to get to Venice that way as opposed to following the coast from Rome. Just curious. The route you`re suggesting crosses which region(s)exactly? Another question...what about Pisa? Would it be worth the detour? I`m keeping in mind that I don`t have lots of time so I need to be choosy about where to go...I think I`ll just have to plan another trip!

annabelle2

AndieB, FYI the B&B in Greve I mentioned (Podere Torre) is an agriturismo, but unlike many of them where you need to stay a week in high season, you can usually book less time there.

In Umbria, another nice place to eat in Montefalco is right on the main square; I think it is L'alchimista. They sell wine and cheese etc but also are a restaurant. Delicious local pasta with saffron cheese in the sauce...yum!

Also in Umbria, another poster mentioned Bevagna. I agree, a charming walled town (not a hill town). Nothing spectacular, just has a nice feel to it. Osteria Podesta is a fun place to eat. (Except the lamb that two of us ordered was way oversalted!)

Stayed up in the hills near there in a great agriturismo: www.lecasegialle.it (or maybe it is .com?). An organic olive oil farm. Not sure if you can stay less than a week, however.

AndieB

Hi Annabelle, that looks like a lovely place. I`ll inquire about the weekly thing.

Traviata

franco,

Thank you for the Coccorone information..I had found that name in my research and was wondering about it...from your description, we WILL be going..we are in Montefalco for three nights..now we have two great places to look forward to...thank you!!

nessundorma

AndieB,

I think the cathedral in Pisa is among the greatest in Europe, and on a beautiful day, all the monuments of Pisa are gorgeous. But the place is VERY heavily touristed, and if you go to Pisa or anywhere near it, you must book a room in advance.

If you want to go to Pisa, the sensible thing to do is to take the train from Rome to Pisa and then rent a car. If you want to wing it from there, I suggest you spend a good chunk of your first day driving OUT of Tuscany, unless you have your eye on the very northEAST corner of Tuscany, where tourists very rarely go.

So looking at map that shows the various provinces of Italy, and the major highways, is the next necessary step.

If you settle on an itinerary before you leave, you might as well go ahead and book if you see some places on the web you really like. No need to be macho about it!


franco,

At Coccorone, I also had the risotto al sagrantino -- which is great -- and a dessert of biscotti dipped in sagrantino syrup. And a bottle of sagrantino to drink. (And I'd had a two glasses before dinner!) That is why there are gaps in my memory. I'm pretty sure I missed the guinea fowl though.

Annabelle2,

You must have drunk less than I did! Your memory is correct. The name of the wine bar is L'alchemista, and it's worth stopping by just to sample the various olive oils, which they allow (you dip in little chunks of bread).

Vera

If you decide to stay near Urbino in Le Marches, check the web site for Le Torricelle. www.letorricelle.it
I'm considering staying there because it looks so incredibly charming, and there is POETRY on the front page of the web site. And if you click on the mosaic tiles, pictures pop up. (Not lots of info, but very poetic!)
Vera

Georgine

Andie B,

If you are picking up a car in Rome (or any other city in Italy), there is no "drop fee" as long as you return the car in Italy. If you have plans to go to Austria( and your departure home is from Austria), then you should drop off your car in Venice (no drop fee), take the train to Klagenfurt(Austria)once your time in Venice is complete, and pick-up a new rental in Klagenfurt. You will then be able to drop the car anywhere in Austria without a drop-fee.

If you are flying home out of Italy, you should price out the difference between a single, as compared to two separate rentals. The minimum number of days for a rental is three.

If a single rental is cheaper than two shorter rental periods, you can park the car very inexpensively at any of the secure parking lots opposite the train station in Mestre. They charge about US 5.00 per day, as compared to about $24.00 per day at the multi-level lots adjacent to the vaporetta lines.

AndieB

Vera/Georgine: thanks for the info. I`m flying out of Paris, so I would like to drop off the car somewhere before Paris (do not want to drive into!)and, as you suggested, take the train. I just need to find where.