We are first timers to Italy (Europe, for that matter). I'm ready to skip Rome this trip-too big, overwhelming, too many rip-offs. We'll fly to Rome and I'm thinking get out ASAP-train from the airport. We were considering Sienna or Perugia but connections look easier for Spoleto. How does this sound for the first night or two? We are committed to flying out of Zurich so we will be making our way north, via Tuscany, by train. Is Venice worth the trip out of the way or should we stick to the central/west side. We have 3 weeks. Any info would be helpful.

My husband and I are veteran Italy travelers, and just returned last week from 3 weeks there. You're wise to avoid Rome on a first trip - it can be very overwhelming. We spent 10 days in Umbria and only drove through Spoleto on route to Norcia. It does get rave reviews and is on most people's Must List for Umbria. Most towns in Umbria are easily accessible by rail/car/bus and you can use Spoleto as a base to tour other nearby towns. Bevagna is an amazing sophisticated little town of 2400 but with a number of 3 and 4 star hotels, we also really enjoyed Montefalco, Trevi, and of course Assisi, which is glorious but waay over-touristed.
As for Venice, it's my favorite Italian city but two cautionary notes: stay in a 3-star or better, the 1 and 2 stars are uniformly dumps and, I don't know when you're traveling, but Venice is not at her best during the summer months. It's too hot and crowded but still magnificent, especially at night when the daytrippers clear out. We love the Campo Santa Margherita area and for a hotel recommend the Ala.

Dear Morelln,
Thanks for a prompt reply. Since you have experienced much of Italy, any recommendations on lodging in Umbria/Tuscany, the Luguria coast and maybe Venice? Thanks for the advice on Venice. We are hoping to stay at places under E100-won't be spending much time in the room. TV & AC not important. Shared baths might be OK, too. We're too old for hostels. Going in mid-September so weather should be great.
Would you buy a Flexirail Pass? Our itinerary is very loose and much of what I've read says don't bother.

You can very sasily reach Spoleto by train from Rome Fiumicino Airport by taking the Leonardo da Vinci nonstop train to Roma Termini and then either a local train or (preferable) a Eurostar train to Spoleto. Schedules and fares at www.trenitalia.com

You can base yourself in Spoleto to visit the following Umbrian towns by public transportation (bus or train or combination): Narni, Amelia, Norcia, Cascia, Foligno, Bevagna, Montefalco, Trevi, Spello, Assisi, Perugia, Gubbio.

Who has made you so negative on Rome? Can you give us some examples of your concerns and fears? I've been many times on self-guided trips. Not even the first time was it overwhelming or filled with rip-offs. Its really awesome and easy to navigate. I think you are cheating yourself by skipping Rome.

Unless I'm missing some math basics I suspect you're going to be spending at least 6-8 hours in your hotel room..that's fully 1/3 of every day. I'd strongly suggest you reconsider the air conditioning requirement, especially in Venice or elsewhere for that matter. As to Rome, I'm sure your mind is made up but you may find smaller cities such as Venice seeming MUCH more crowded than Rome..and there is nothing requiring you to do everything there...for that matter I'd be very selective about every place you plan to visit. Have a great trip.

Hi ns,

Under 100E for Venice is a bit difficult. Try http://alcampaniel.tripod.com/venezia/

I think that they are about 90E.

If you have three weeks and are going to skip Rome, then by all means take a trip to Venice.

For relatively inexpensive places in Venice, check out the eurocheapo.com website. We discovered the Locanda Montin, in the wonderful Dorsoduro neighborhood, on that website and loved it. Our top floor room, with a shared bath and view of the picturesque Rio Eremite, was, as I recall, around 100 euros. The two rooms flanking that room have private baths and balconies and are, I'm sure, priced higher.

For what it's worth, I put off visiting Rome for quite some time based on negative things I'd heard and read about it being noisy, dirty, etc. But once I finally visited it, about two years ago, I fell head-over-heels in love with it, and returned to it for four days last year. Overwhelming? Perhaps for some people, yes. Too big. Not at all, IMO. To me, it seems compact and, as Degas said, easy to navigate. Too many rip-offs? I'm curious what kind of rip-offs you mean. Yes, there are pickpockets but you just take sensible precautions. In two trips, totaling eleven days, we were never ripped off by anyone in Rome.

I agree that Rome is worth a stop. It can be overwhelming - like any big city - if you try to do too much. But if you set modest goals (pick one museum, one church, one amazing building and a couple of piazzas), you will be amazed by the city.

My pitch for Rome aside, I think Spoleto is a terrific choice. We spent two weeks in a villa near Spoleto and found it a perfect location for exploring Umbria. And the town itself is wonderful - excellent food, nice walks, gorgeous sights. Nearby towns we also loved were Norcia and Todi.

Wow, skip Rome! I am about to go back to Italy and see Rome for the 3rd time. We have based ourselves in Rome and taken day trips to Florence, Orvieto, Naples, Sorrento, Pompeii, etc.
Rome is a wonderful experience, very laid back. You could stay next to the Vatican and spend easily a couple of days there. If you don't see Rome you will be missing most of the world's ancient artifacts, e.g. Coliseum, Forum, the Appian Way and catacombs. Bernini's fountains, Michelangelo's Pieta and Moses.

Please rethink your itinerary.

OK,ok we'll re-think Rome. We just tend to enjoy smaller cities & rural towns more. Though I love NYC, I guess I think of Rome as Manhattan with a language barrier. We can't do it all, so Rome may have to wait for another trip when we start there and head south.
Anyway, thanks for the hotel suggestions for Venice. Any specifics for Spoleto? The Hotel Charleston and the Hotel Aurora are two that have come up a couple times. We still hope to do this trip as cheaply as possible. I'm sure that nights in late Sept./early Oct will be just fine without A/C.

Also consider the Hotel Il Panciolle, next door to the Palazzo Dragoni and very close to the Duomo of Spoleto. No a/c (like the Aurora), but fantastic location. The Restaurant by the same name (different management) is one of the best in town, with marvellous views of the valley below.