First off, I want thank everyone who gave me so many wonderful recommendations, suggestions and support from this forum. There are too many to thank as I have been actively gathering information for years on this site.

This is my trip report

I wanted to spend this monumental birthday in Paris. When I realized this was an Olympic year in Paris, I decided to change my plans. About 8 years ago, I had been in Rome with an organized tour and later spent a few days on my own. I fell in love with Rome. I don�t know how I decided on Sicily as stop #2, but suddenly, I was booking accommodation for Palermo and researching archaeological sites in Sicily.



Some of you more adventurous types might think of Italy as an easy trip, but any place is a challenge for me. My friends are not big travellers (I guess that is why I am travelling solo) and my family has not been big adventurers either. They are not very supportive and I am usually given lots of warnings (not helpful). I rarely take organized tours as I find that I like to linger and have the freedom to stay in places. Solo travelling is not for everyone. This trip report comes from that stance. A solo traveller of more advanced age and a woman.



So off I went to Rome. No apprehension except for the thought of pickpockets. As always in big cities, I keep a small amount of money in my Travelon bag (ugly but I feel safer and it has a handy dandy bottle holder built in. I figure everyone can take one look at me and know I am a tourist�ironically, more people spoke to me in Italian, than English. I also keep a hidden pocket with ID and some cash. Call me over the top, but I am alone. Anyhow, I carried my passport when going to the major sites and the rest of the time I had my driver�s license and a photocopy of my passport.



On the advice of this forum, I booked Hotel Albergo Santa Chiara. It is a perfect location. The room was spotless and the staff attentive. Breakfast was plentiful. The location is behind the Pantheon which was perfect because it was out of the crowds, but walking distance to almost everything. I did use a cab or two when I needed to be somewhere very early in the morning, but I literally walked everywhere. No small feat in 35 C + weather. The best part was people watching at Sant� Eustachio Caffe �bliss.

If anyone is thinking of travelling solo and have questions, ask away. I am not an expert obviously , but if you are even thinking of going�GO!

More please, kelsey22!

Thank you! I have so much to say.

Rome - part 2



Once I got my bearings, Rome was a breeze. As I mentioned, I never felt unsafe. In fact, I found people most helpful, friendly and hospitable. With so many tourists, I was especially appreciative of the kind service I received as a solo traveller. I was never banished to the back of the restaurant or refused seating. I sat in cafes people watching for long periods of time and no one bothered me to move along.



Having travelled with others and travelled alone, being solo it is always nice to have a bit of a smile and a chat from the waiters and waitresses. My first day I wandered over to Tasso d�Oro near the Panthenon. I ordered my first coffee in Rome. I commented about the granita de cafe con pallo that I would be back for that. A couple of days later, I returned�as I sat down, the same waiter came over and said �you are back for the granita� and promptly went to get one for me. One of the things I love about travelling is that It reminds me that kindness is everywhere (but that is a different discussion).



I often read that solo women think that everyone is looking at them or judging them that they are eating alone. First off, who cares! Frankly, I feel so bad*** travelling solo. (If you read my first post, I already mentioned that I don�t have much support for my solo travelling). Second, I have more time to soak up my surroundings while dining solo. I am a people watcher. I will admit I enjoy the coffees more than the meals as I tend to eat less in the heat so I order less (I don�t like to waste food). Go out dine alone - it is fun!



Back to the itinerary, I had pre-booked three things: the necropolis tour at the Vatican, a small group tour of the Vatican Museums and my beloved, galleria Borghese.



The necropolis tour is amazing. Well worth it. We were a group of 12. It was early morning and I literally had St Peter�s Square to myself. I have photos with not one single person. The tour is very informative and I highly recommend it. Note that they didn�t allow backpacks or big purses. Was it claustrophobic, not really. I would say that if you are truly claustrophobic, it might be a problem, but if you are like me and only feel uncertain, it is fine. It is hot and humid, but you move slowly through and the guide was amazing.



I purposely booked an early morning Vatican Museum tour due to the heat and crowds. I would do this again. Having a guide was great for navigating the crowds and having some interesting information. Unfortunately, I was placed in a group with a mom and three young men (20-22). Now, I am a mom to three boys so I know how it is�not really interested, but dragged along, too cool to say you are interested, too early in the morning�

So�I get it�the mom was apologetic and the guide tried to engage them. Really, if someone is not interested and as a guide, they have tried, then leave it and focus on the people who are interested and engaged. I wrote the feedback to the (well-known and popular) tour company. Overall, I would still book a small group tour, but obviously, it is hit or miss. The guide knew her stuff so ok. I will go back one day and with due respect, I am a bit of keener.



My takeaway on the Vatican museums - take a small group tour in the am before the crowds and heat set in.



I decided on a whim to go up to the rooftop. Once in line for 45 minutes, I regretted my decision as the line moves slowly and it was noonish by this time. I opted out of the stairs for that reason. Here is the thing, it was great and I am glad I took the elevator up. The views were great and I got a kick out of sending a postcard home!



This is a long read already so I will leave my thoughts on Galleria Borghese for tomorrow

From one bada$$ female solo traveler to another, I agree. I am lucky that my parents became travelers because of me and I have grown into the solo traveler mode seamlessly as a result. They are the ones who get comments, about their 45 year old daughter, solo traveling about from their friends "Are you going to allow her to do that?!" My Father shuts down the pearl clutchers and says, "How can I allow her not to?! She is a GROWN woman!"

That coffee looks amazing!

You had me laughing. I get comments from my peer group! I don�t even respond. Unfortunately, when I got Covid for the first time last year, I even got �I told you so�. My response was, �At least, I had a beautiful beach in Rovinj to recoup.� And I did.

Galleria Borghese:



Watch the website and scoop up your tickets! Not joking. I ran out to the car to grab my Visa and by the time I got back my time slot was filled up.



Use this website: https://www.tosc.it/



Although a guide could be fun, I got the audio guide and thought it was fine. The staff was quite vigilant about checking anything bigger than a tiny purse.



I had a super busy day with my Vatican tour in the morning and this in the afternoon. I wouldn�t recommend it, but that was the only slot that they had left.



Save some time to walk in the gardens. They are so peaceful. I didn�t make it to the pond, but I have read it is nice. It made for a perfect afternoon. This is by far my favorite gallery. I absolutely love it. There are no words, so here is a photo.

Just a little glimpse

I could have spent the whole day there.

Off to Sicily:



I did very little research on Sicily prior to this trip. I am usually very well-prepared, but life got in the way and I felt like I was going to wing most of my trip to Palermo. I flew Ryanair - no problems. I grabbed a bus (exit out of the airport, turn right and you will see the Prestia e Comande agent or the bus driver. Paid with my card and hopped onto the bus. Very convenient. My son later took the train and said that was very easy too.



Palermo grew on me. It was gritty, exciting, busy, loud, frenetic, and enchanting. I couldn�t quite decide whether to feel comfortable or on guard. I chose to be aware. I stayed right on Quattro Canti in a B and B hotel. It was a large room, affordable and safe. The rooftop terrace was the best part and its central location. I mean the view�.and the cannoli�



Go, yes run to I Segreti del Chiostro right across the street from the hotel. It has the most tranquil garden that you can eat your most delectable cannoli in. Can you tell Palermo won me over?


Yes I ate the whole thing.

I'm "traveling" with you, kelsey22. Before Rome, the name Bernini was not in my vocabulary.. incredible. Looking forward to more Sicily food!

Kelsey22-really enjoying your TR. And my experience as a frequent solo female traveler completely aligns with yours in re how it feels in re freedom, the benefit of not having to coordinate or compromise, especially with those in my circle of don't love to travel as much as I do or in the ways that I do...Very glad you treated yourself to a wonderful birthday trip (and to some of my favorite places). Thanks for sharing!

Too much (negative) information



The pandemic put a real kink in my annual trip schedule. When it finally wound down, I hadn�t travelled for 3 years which meant I was 3 years older, 3 years slower and in the pandemic years, I had grown more cautious . My first trip after Covid was to visit my son in Switzerland. No crowds and super easy (highly recommend Switzerland as a first destination to a new traveller). The next trip was Croatia. I got Covid�did put a damper on my plans.

This trip was a rebirth of sorts. I love Italy. I think I already said that. In keeping with the hyperalertness that COVID caused, what I did read about Palermo was mostly negative. It was from this forum that confirmed that it was worth a look. I don�t know about you solo travellers, but the negative comments on social media tend to stick and reverberate in my mind. On one hand, Palermo is chaotic and, let�s be real, a bit rough around the edges. On the other hand, it exudes excitement and energy. I found the people friendly, chatty and accommodating, not at all like I had read. Sure, the cab drivers were a bit stoic and there are random men walking around or hanging around. Yes, I did have one moment where I felt that if my hand had not been on my purse, it might have disappeared with the gentleman who appeared out of nowhere and approached my table a bit too close. (By the way, I want to say that the owner happened to be standing around and yelled �hey� at the same time). It could happen anywhere though and the fact is, nothing happened in the end. Would I walk around at midnight? No. Would I walk around with my purse fluttering behind me? No. But I wouldn�t do either of those things anyhow. Solos - I felt safe and welcome. I think Palermo gets some bad press which is too bad.



Highlights:



Cannoli (multiple)

Arancini (multiple)

Freshly squeezed oj from the corner stands

The newly wedded couples who drive through the streets

Watching said newly wedded couple emerge from the church

Watching their family depart to the reception in one of those little tourist trains and having everyone on the street cheer

A cool drink from the Riscente rooftop

Music

Cheers

Everyone is loud

The magnificent skyline from my hotel rooftop

One of many aranchini

The view from my hotel

Nice to have you along the way!

Thank you Studenttobe.. I hope I am not coming across as anti-social. Solo travel is just different (in my experience). I am coming up to the part where my son and daughter in law met up with me in Sicily. What parts of Sicily were you in?

Not at all antisocial (nor am I)! I just find it peaceful in the meditative sense to travel alone, meet new people along the way, and live kind of “free range” for a while. It’s a nice mental break from “regular” life. Also, I’m bossy and like to go and do what I want when I want . Re Sicily: traveled through western Sicily about 10 years ago (Palermo, San Vito Lo Capo, Trapani, Marsala, Segesta, Selinute) and in 2022 to Palermo and some of eastern Sicily (Modica, Ragusa, Ortigia and Siracusa, Taormina). SO much more that I want to experience on that beautiful island (including the islands of Sicily). Hoping to return in the future either to revisit familiar places or to explore new ones—the perennial dilemma. .

I hear you. I have a list so long and I end up wanting to go back to some places, like Rome. You have some of my next stops on my list. I bypassed Taormina on this trip due to a lot of talk about how �touristy� it is and time constraints, but I would like to visit.

I am enjoying your report too.
And the solo traveller discussion is interesting.
I had my first solo trip to Europe in May/ June, and surprised myself with how much I loved it. My DH stayed home - he’s never enjoyed travelling as much as me and that led to some conflict on last years’ holiday so I opted to go solo this year.
I just really loved that disconnect from my working/ home/ predictable life and exploring new places with no negotiation needed.
And I’m ready for more - only now my DH has reconsidered and wants to join me, lol.

Sicily really appeals, as does Puglia. But, DH wants to go to Spain. I don’t think it will suit him, but, I’m trying to create an itinerary that meets his expectations. Solo is much easier!

I am glad you are enjoying my report, Adelaidean and thank you for commenting.

I am focusing on the solo bit as I think it adds a different perspective. The most common comment I get is that it is not safe to travel solo. The second most common comment is, �Aren�t you lonely?�. I will not deny that both these questions are valid. I am never lonely in a museum or while sightseeing. Of course, the benefit of having company is the extra pair of eyes and someone to share the memories with you.

By the way, I look forward to hearing where you decide to go.

kelsey, I'm enjoying your report. I have done a great deal of solo travel, it's great. The two best things are that you can do whatever you want to do whenever you want to do it without considering someone else's goals and that people are much more likely to talk to you if you're alone. I think I'm a little luckier in that I haven't run into a lot of negative comments from people, except asking, "Aren't you afraid?" I've had more who seem envious because they don't have the nerve to do it.

I was just in Puglia & Rome in June (need to finish my report!). I also love the Galleria Borghese because I love Bernini!
I'm very interested in the rest, thinking about Sicily but haven't been able to really getting into planning it.

Palermo Highlights continued

Cefalu

Super easy. I took the train to Celafu. It was a few Euros. A short walk to the center of town and lots of little shops, restaurants, coffee places and beach. Unfortunately, I couldn�t go into the water (and it was sooooo hot). A pitfall of solo travelling, what to do with your phone, money, and credit cards while in the water? I do have a �waterproof� bag, but I don�t entirely trust it with my phone.

Side note: I can remember the days when I travelled with only some traveller�s checks and cash. I do miss those days as we would find a more deserted place and cover our stuff with a towel and off we went into the water. True, I wasn�t solo�

Anyhow, back to the near past�in hindsight, I would pre book a Lido and at least be able to wade in the cool water.

This is a super easy day trip and I recommend it.



Monreale:

This was also very easy. I took a bus from the central station. It was fun to travel by city bus. I had a lovely older Sicilian lady having a very one-sided conversation with me. I gather by her hand gestures and the few words I could pick up that she was discussing the heat and the inability of the driver to drive correctly. I pretty much agreed with everything she said and we had a good laugh. I don�t think she picked up that I didn�t speak Italian, but that was ok. We communicated. 😀



The Cattedrale di Monreale is gorgeous and well worth the short ride to see it. I spent about an hour and half - 2 hours there. I was going to stay longer and walk around, but my little haven of tranquility aka I Segreti del Chiostro was calling me back to Palermo. One more cannoli.

One of my favorite things about Sicily is the absolute energy in communication. The bus driver on the way back had plenty to say and it was a bit of a harrowing ride back into town. Driving and mood seems to be intimately connected in Sicily. Just an observation. And all part of this dynamic energy.

Street Food Tour

Aside from my one-sided conversation with Sicilian bus neighbour, I realized that I hadn�t really had much chit chat time. I had been eyeing this street market tour . I am NOT an adventurous eater heightened by the inability to eat too much when it is super hot. In spite of this I decided that I should give it a try. I had a good time and the food was delicious and the experience was fun, but I was the only participant. The guide was an actor/guide who was very accommodating, but I was a bit disappointed as I had expected more people to talk to.

Tour of Teatro Massimo

https://www.teatromassimo.it/en/guided-tours/

I wandered over to the Teatro and I was able to book a tour. I thought it was a good tour and the guide was very good.

Final notes on Palermo:



It was Santa Rosalia festival while I was in Palermo. Actually, the day I left was the actual festival. The city was in preparation for it. The packed streets in the evenings were a bit much for me. As I mentioned earlier on, the isolation during the pandemic has had a lasting effect on my tolerance for packed crowds. I enjoy the excitement and the energy, but I like to keep a little distance.



Palermo - 10/10 ⭐️

Thank you for your comment. I have never written such a long TR. Bernini is beyond and being able to see his work in person is a truly magical and awe-inspiring experience.

I am interested in reading your trip report. Puglia was on my short list. How was it?