Rome, and Eastern Europe by older single woman
Sep 21st, 2014, 02:46 AM
#21
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Thanks for your informative post which I've enjoed reading. I am heading to Romania arriving september 24th. I am visiting Brasov and wonder if the markets are open every day? I am preparing myself for sticker shock when I arrive, $24 for a meal sounds steep to me. Thanks again.
Sep 21st, 2014, 10:45 PM
#22
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More Romania
Romania gives me such a sense of wellbeing. I feel that the people are very kind if a tad reserved. Of course the language barrier is huge, much larger than I expected. Still I keep on having small unexpected and rather pleasant travel experiences.
It is pouring with rain and I don't have much to do but sit and share some of these moments with you.
Going from Bucharest to Brasov I share my seat with an accountant from Sibiu. He is probably in his 40's married with two daughters. A very fascinating man who explains to me why Germany can grow so much more on the same acreage as either Bulgaria or Romania, it has to do with the climate. He fills my head with more facts than I can possibly retain, but it is a pleasant travel diversion. There are constantly sales people passing by on the train, fresh berries, magazines, potato chips,
an array of trinkets from a deaf man. Looking out the window the views are breathtaking.
Leaving Brasnov for Sighisoara I dutifully wait on platform 4 as I was advised. Strange there are no other people on the platform, finally I ask a worker for the train to Sighisoara, he points to a train that had been there for at least 15 minutes and grabs my suitcase and hoists me over the rails and onto the train. As it starts to move I realize my handbag is on the bench,
the door is still open and I scream "my handbag" the men look at me like I am crazy and someone gets it grabs the bag, passes it on relay fashion and just before the train picks up speed I have it in my hand.
When I enter my compartment there are 3 older people and a young girl around 18. The older people are just finishing their coffee in china cups, so civilized. For the next few hours there is no real communication, I realize that Romanians don't smile easily, not because of hostility but rather wariness, but eventually the ice breaks. My map of Romania comes out, the husband borrows my glasses so he can read it, then forgets to return them, much laughter ensues.
The girl shares an apple and without real language we all have a good time.
Taking the mini bus from Sighisoara to Sibiu 20 lei or $12 the driver stops all along the way and picks up anybody who needs a ride. The bus is bursting at the seams with a woman standing holding her infant. The driver tells her to give it to the man who is leaning against the door. In the end I am so nervous that I offer to take the baby. She does well for awhile then she wants her mom. My travel companion offers her seat, the mother takes it, and proceeds to pull out her breast and nurse the baby. No modesty here, though she wasn't dressed as one it was surmised she was a Roma.
The driver stops at a few photo-ops and tells the rest of the passengers that 30 seconds less won't make a difference. There were a couple I totally missed, one was a man tilling his field behind a horse, the other a horse and cart filled with gypsies. The route was extremely rural, the villages appeared to be self sustaining and rather distant from each other. We saw quite a few fortified churches in the distance. How I wished I drove a car.
This is the Romania I envisioned and I want to experience more o
Romania gives me such a sense of wellbeing. I feel that the people are very kind if a tad reserved. Of course the language barrier is huge, much larger than I expected. Still I keep on having small unexpected and rather pleasant travel experiences.
It is pouring with rain and I don't have much to do but sit and share some of these moments with you.
Going from Bucharest to Brasov I share my seat with an accountant from Sibiu. He is probably in his 40's married with two daughters. A very fascinating man who explains to me why Germany can grow so much more on the same acreage as either Bulgaria or Romania, it has to do with the climate. He fills my head with more facts than I can possibly retain, but it is a pleasant travel diversion. There are constantly sales people passing by on the train, fresh berries, magazines, potato chips,
an array of trinkets from a deaf man. Looking out the window the views are breathtaking.
Leaving Brasnov for Sighisoara I dutifully wait on platform 4 as I was advised. Strange there are no other people on the platform, finally I ask a worker for the train to Sighisoara, he points to a train that had been there for at least 15 minutes and grabs my suitcase and hoists me over the rails and onto the train. As it starts to move I realize my handbag is on the bench,
the door is still open and I scream "my handbag" the men look at me like I am crazy and someone gets it grabs the bag, passes it on relay fashion and just before the train picks up speed I have it in my hand.
When I enter my compartment there are 3 older people and a young girl around 18. The older people are just finishing their coffee in china cups, so civilized. For the next few hours there is no real communication, I realize that Romanians don't smile easily, not because of hostility but rather wariness, but eventually the ice breaks. My map of Romania comes out, the husband borrows my glasses so he can read it, then forgets to return them, much laughter ensues.
The girl shares an apple and without real language we all have a good time.
Taking the mini bus from Sighisoara to Sibiu 20 lei or $12 the driver stops all along the way and picks up anybody who needs a ride. The bus is bursting at the seams with a woman standing holding her infant. The driver tells her to give it to the man who is leaning against the door. In the end I am so nervous that I offer to take the baby. She does well for awhile then she wants her mom. My travel companion offers her seat, the mother takes it, and proceeds to pull out her breast and nurse the baby. No modesty here, though she wasn't dressed as one it was surmised she was a Roma.
The driver stops at a few photo-ops and tells the rest of the passengers that 30 seconds less won't make a difference. There were a couple I totally missed, one was a man tilling his field behind a horse, the other a horse and cart filled with gypsies. The route was extremely rural, the villages appeared to be self sustaining and rather distant from each other. We saw quite a few fortified churches in the distance. How I wished I drove a car.
This is the Romania I envisioned and I want to experience more o
Sep 21st, 2014, 11:53 PM
#23
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This is such a wonderful series of posts! I am full of admiration for your enterprise and adaptability.
I haven't covered much of this territory, but what I have covered confirms your accuracy. The posters who plan every minute have rarely think about delays owing to "rocks in the road", but such things happen.
I am also impressed by someone who travels to see fortified Saxon churches. I knew about the Saxons in Central Europe, but I didn't know about their fortified churches. I wonder if they resemble fortified churches in Languedoc.
Would it be too intrusive if I asked what you mean by "older woman"? So often I see posts here about taking elderly parents to Europe and the parents are 63. If you turn out to be 46, I will be disappointed, but it won't stop me enjoying your journeys and your observations. Well done!
I haven't covered much of this territory, but what I have covered confirms your accuracy. The posters who plan every minute have rarely think about delays owing to "rocks in the road", but such things happen.
I am also impressed by someone who travels to see fortified Saxon churches. I knew about the Saxons in Central Europe, but I didn't know about their fortified churches. I wonder if they resemble fortified churches in Languedoc.
Would it be too intrusive if I asked what you mean by "older woman"? So often I see posts here about taking elderly parents to Europe and the parents are 63. If you turn out to be 46, I will be disappointed, but it won't stop me enjoying your journeys and your observations. Well done!
Sep 22nd, 2014, 04:32 AM
#24
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Yes $24 is expensive but I went to one of the more expensive places around the square. You will spend much less as a rule.
I was 74 August 27 which I celebrated in Rome with my friends which in my book qualifies me as older.
I was 74 August 27 which I celebrated in Rome with my friends which in my book qualifies me as older.
Sep 22nd, 2014, 04:19 PM
#26
I would say 74 definitely qualifies! Here I am, reluctantly posting as an "older" woman, and I'm only 67.
"the driver stops all along the way and picks up anybody who needs a ride"
Ah yes, Eastern European (and for that matter some Asian) buses. One time I had a woman with a box of chicks across the aisle.
I, too, arrive in Romania Sep 24th, looks like it will have dried up by then! And I figure accommodation and transport are cheap enough I can afford to splurge on a meal or two. Cool that we're going to have three Fodorites in Romania this fall, there are too few Romania posts here.
"the driver stops all along the way and picks up anybody who needs a ride"
Ah yes, Eastern European (and for that matter some Asian) buses. One time I had a woman with a box of chicks across the aisle.
I, too, arrive in Romania Sep 24th, looks like it will have dried up by then! And I figure accommodation and transport are cheap enough I can afford to splurge on a meal or two. Cool that we're going to have three Fodorites in Romania this fall, there are too few Romania posts here.
Sep 23rd, 2014, 09:48 AM
#31
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It is hard to believe that I have one day left in Romania and all I want to do is tell you about Bucovina and the painted monasteries. That wouldn't be right if I didn't also tell you about Sighisoara, the lilliputian medieaval walled city.
Which is where I stayed at Casa Lia for less than $20 with breakfast with Lia and Marius being the most hospitable generous hosts. Where I climbed 172 steps to see the church and cemetery and met a wonderful young couple from Southern Romania who introduced me to a local soup eaten in bread that night. This is also how I came to have the magical bus tour to Sibiu with another couple who also stayed a Casa Lia.
Then you wouldn't know about Pensiunea Cocosul Rosu in Sibiu where I was booked for one night and wanted to add another night, but they were fully booked, so I reserved the 3 bedded room and was prepared to pay for the whole room with its view over the rooftops of Sibiu. Where I ended paying $48 for the two nights remaining in the same room and the receptionist refused to accept tips. Also taking the local bus to Astra, the outdoor ethnographic museum, which I could have happily missed. But if I had missed it I wouldn't have had the stuffed cabbage at the outdoor restaurant that was very good.
The whole city reminded me of a stage setting for an operetta,
I spent the last day visiting the Brukenthal Museum an art museum housed in a baroque palace built 1785. The collections are extensive, especially the Romanian art which requires a separate ticket. I have a grilled Filet Mignon at Pardon Cafe before it was time to catch my overnight train to Suceava and Bucavina.
Being this nervous person when it comes to overnight train travel, since I wanted a sleeping car, I had made sure to purchase my ticket as soon as I arrived in Sibiu. I didn't understand why I had two tickets with the same price on them and why it cost me $132. The ticket agent disappeared as soon as I had paid someone else explained because something I didn't understand, so I thought I had two tickets because I had to change trains. It wasn't until just before the train was leaving the conductor explained to me that I had in fact purchased two tickets. All was not lost, when we got to Alba Iulia I was able to return a portion of my ticket for a refund and ended up with a sleeping compartment to myself. One thing is for sure, I need a course in European train travel even if it has all turned out for the best so far.
Suceava, I came here for one reason and one alone to see the painted monasteries and they haven't disappointed. As I arrive at Villa Alice my home for the next two nights the receptionist shows me to my room and remarks "This is the cheapest room, we have many so much better" at $50 a night with breakfast it suits me just fine. Since I have hired the owner to be my guide over the next two days I learn that he will do anything to sell his hotel and have guests upgrade, wherever we go he hands out the business card of the hotel.
As we travel around to the various monasteries, though I think of them more as nunneries, since I didn't see one monk or priest, I realize what a remarkable feat these churches are. The 500+ years old frescoes are incredible and what I learn is that several are fortified churches. There were invasions from many parts, not just the Turks but also Tartars and other tribes. It appears as if all the monasteries are nunneries as I don't see one male religious figure anywhere. The flowers and especially the roses are extraordinary at each and every location.
The photographs will be posted I promise. All the churches are more than my words can describe and I am so happy to be here.
Have just lost everything I wrote into wherever things disappear, the first version was better but here goes.
On our way back my happiness is complete, I get to see more of rural Romania. We park the car so that I can take a picture of a house that is decorated with what looks like cross stitch embroidery. Across the road is a horse drawn milk cart, the driver is collecting milk from the various farms and transferring it into old fashioned milk cans before going to the dairy.
Heaven is when we proceed along the road and I see mountains of cabbages for sale. I ask for permission to take pictures and it is readily granted. I see how the women can some form of tomato sauce over an open fire. One of them tells me that she is sterilizing the cans, I for once keep my mouth shut instead of pointing out that the water is not boiling. Presumably she knows what she is doing, the pickles are beautifully arranged in the jars and the posing is cheerfully done. I have had a small glimpse of rural Romania and I cannot wait to come back and exp more.
Which is where I stayed at Casa Lia for less than $20 with breakfast with Lia and Marius being the most hospitable generous hosts. Where I climbed 172 steps to see the church and cemetery and met a wonderful young couple from Southern Romania who introduced me to a local soup eaten in bread that night. This is also how I came to have the magical bus tour to Sibiu with another couple who also stayed a Casa Lia.
Then you wouldn't know about Pensiunea Cocosul Rosu in Sibiu where I was booked for one night and wanted to add another night, but they were fully booked, so I reserved the 3 bedded room and was prepared to pay for the whole room with its view over the rooftops of Sibiu. Where I ended paying $48 for the two nights remaining in the same room and the receptionist refused to accept tips. Also taking the local bus to Astra, the outdoor ethnographic museum, which I could have happily missed. But if I had missed it I wouldn't have had the stuffed cabbage at the outdoor restaurant that was very good.
The whole city reminded me of a stage setting for an operetta,
I spent the last day visiting the Brukenthal Museum an art museum housed in a baroque palace built 1785. The collections are extensive, especially the Romanian art which requires a separate ticket. I have a grilled Filet Mignon at Pardon Cafe before it was time to catch my overnight train to Suceava and Bucavina.
Being this nervous person when it comes to overnight train travel, since I wanted a sleeping car, I had made sure to purchase my ticket as soon as I arrived in Sibiu. I didn't understand why I had two tickets with the same price on them and why it cost me $132. The ticket agent disappeared as soon as I had paid someone else explained because something I didn't understand, so I thought I had two tickets because I had to change trains. It wasn't until just before the train was leaving the conductor explained to me that I had in fact purchased two tickets. All was not lost, when we got to Alba Iulia I was able to return a portion of my ticket for a refund and ended up with a sleeping compartment to myself. One thing is for sure, I need a course in European train travel even if it has all turned out for the best so far.
Suceava, I came here for one reason and one alone to see the painted monasteries and they haven't disappointed. As I arrive at Villa Alice my home for the next two nights the receptionist shows me to my room and remarks "This is the cheapest room, we have many so much better" at $50 a night with breakfast it suits me just fine. Since I have hired the owner to be my guide over the next two days I learn that he will do anything to sell his hotel and have guests upgrade, wherever we go he hands out the business card of the hotel.
As we travel around to the various monasteries, though I think of them more as nunneries, since I didn't see one monk or priest, I realize what a remarkable feat these churches are. The 500+ years old frescoes are incredible and what I learn is that several are fortified churches. There were invasions from many parts, not just the Turks but also Tartars and other tribes. It appears as if all the monasteries are nunneries as I don't see one male religious figure anywhere. The flowers and especially the roses are extraordinary at each and every location.
The photographs will be posted I promise. All the churches are more than my words can describe and I am so happy to be here.
Have just lost everything I wrote into wherever things disappear, the first version was better but here goes.
On our way back my happiness is complete, I get to see more of rural Romania. We park the car so that I can take a picture of a house that is decorated with what looks like cross stitch embroidery. Across the road is a horse drawn milk cart, the driver is collecting milk from the various farms and transferring it into old fashioned milk cans before going to the dairy.
Heaven is when we proceed along the road and I see mountains of cabbages for sale. I ask for permission to take pictures and it is readily granted. I see how the women can some form of tomato sauce over an open fire. One of them tells me that she is sterilizing the cans, I for once keep my mouth shut instead of pointing out that the water is not boiling. Presumably she knows what she is doing, the pickles are beautifully arranged in the jars and the posing is cheerfully done. I have had a small glimpse of rural Romania and I cannot wait to come back and exp more.
Sep 25th, 2014, 01:16 AM
#32
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I got in late last night from Iasi in Romania where I sat next to a most interesting man on the plane. He was an agricultural engineer working for Monsanto and specializes in corn. I learnt a lot about corn, economic development in Romania and best of all that white polenta is the best with fish. He was also a great proponent for genetically modified food. His reasoning was that you don't need as many pesticides. He loved his job and Monsanto so refreshing to hear.
After spending the night near the airport since I got in so late it wasn't worth going into Rome. I was offered a lift at 8am from the guest house, which I gratefully accepted, thinking my flight leaves at 12 noon. When I go to check in I discover it doesn't leave until 1.40. I am at this point not looking forward to a day of traveling with a long layover at Heathrow as well. Didn't plan this very well if my calculations are correct I will have been on the road for about 24 hours.
I see the AlItalia lounge and decide to see if I can buy a day pass. Travel karma continues, for 30 Euros I now have access to a lovely lounge, food and drinks and consider this one of my more worthwhile expenditures. May even consider that option at Heathrow where I have another 5 hours. Though if I remember correctly that airport is such a nightmare I may need that time just to negotiate where to go..
After spending the night near the airport since I got in so late it wasn't worth going into Rome. I was offered a lift at 8am from the guest house, which I gratefully accepted, thinking my flight leaves at 12 noon. When I go to check in I discover it doesn't leave until 1.40. I am at this point not looking forward to a day of traveling with a long layover at Heathrow as well. Didn't plan this very well if my calculations are correct I will have been on the road for about 24 hours.
I see the AlItalia lounge and decide to see if I can buy a day pass. Travel karma continues, for 30 Euros I now have access to a lovely lounge, food and drinks and consider this one of my more worthwhile expenditures. May even consider that option at Heathrow where I have another 5 hours. Though if I remember correctly that airport is such a nightmare I may need that time just to negotiate where to go..
Sep 25th, 2014, 06:46 AM
#34
I just came through Heathrow, transferring from T3 to T5, international to international but I still had to go through security at T5 and it was a zoo. Even the Fast Track people had to wait. I think it took me 30 or 45 minutes, and that was going through old style security.
I do agree that day passes can be worth it. Somehow I managed to book myself an eight hour layover in Miami a couple of years back, and the day pass was well worth while.
I do agree that day passes can be worth it. Somehow I managed to book myself an eight hour layover in Miami a couple of years back, and the day pass was well worth while.
Sep 25th, 2014, 10:45 AM
#35
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Thanks to you I am now ensconced in a pleasant quiet double room in Pensiunea Cocosul. We've had Sunny weather since we landed in Bucharest yesterday until I reached Sibiu at 4 pm when it became cloudy without rain.
Sep 25th, 2014, 02:34 PM
#36
As far a taxis not allowed to charge for a suitcase, try to tell that to a driver when you don't have exact change.>>
let's face it, there are few places where you can expect any change from $50 for a $48 fare.
enjoying this very much, nywoman. i've only read about 1/4 of it but I'm looking forward to the rest. We spent our honeymoon in Dubrovnik, well before the Balkan conflict that caused it so much damage, and ate at those waterside restaurants in Cavtat several times. I don't remember walking round the wall, but perhaps we had better things to do.
let's face it, there are few places where you can expect any change from $50 for a $48 fare.
enjoying this very much, nywoman. i've only read about 1/4 of it but I'm looking forward to the rest. We spent our honeymoon in Dubrovnik, well before the Balkan conflict that caused it so much damage, and ate at those waterside restaurants in Cavtat several times. I don't remember walking round the wall, but perhaps we had better things to do.
Sep 26th, 2014, 09:38 AM
#37
just read it all and am in awe of your fortitude and enthusiasm. 74 years young, I think. and what an ambassador for the single traveller - you really do get to meet people when you are by yourself, don't you?
Really looking forward to a lot more.
Really looking forward to a lot more.
Oct 4th, 2014, 08:53 AM
#38
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Thank you Ann
My travel blog is on Nywoman.blogspot.com in case you want to look at previous trips. This one is over for now. May edit some items on the blog that I never entered in the trip report.
My travel blog is on Nywoman.blogspot.com in case you want to look at previous trips. This one is over for now. May edit some items on the blog that I never entered in the trip report.
Oct 11th, 2014, 10:36 AM
#40
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<<just read it all and am in awe of your fortitude and enthusiasm. 74 years young, I think. and what an ambassador for the single traveller>>
like annhig, I too am in awe.
I also am a single traveller who adores Eastern Europe. Romania is up and coming on my to-go list and I would hope to follow in your footsteps in the next few years.
like annhig, I too am in awe.
I also am a single traveller who adores Eastern Europe. Romania is up and coming on my to-go list and I would hope to follow in your footsteps in the next few years.
