Hi everyone,

Although I didn't post much I used the board a lot to help plan our trip and thought I'd post a report in case it helps anyone planning a trip.

I have to warn you though that this report ended up a lot longer than anything I ever thought I could write. Consider yourself warned!

Here it goes:

We (my boyfriend George and I – he’s 41, I’m 35) left Toronto on September 9th with Zoom Airlines to London Gatwick. We had a 5 hour layover in Gatwick before our British Airways flight to Dubrovnik. I had originally planned a night in Gatwick before the BA flight but our Zoom flight the day before got cancelled so we decided to try the 5 hour connection. I was a little worried about missing it but shouldn’t have been because our flight landed in Gatwick over 30 minutes early.

Just a few comments about Zoom for any Canadians considering them. Obviously they’re a charter airline so our expectations were adjusted accordingly but it wasn’t a bad flight – I’ve been on much worse (Air Transat). The flight attendants were very nice, there were three movies – it wasn’t that bad. The seats are narrow but the leg room was okay.

Anyway, we were getting really tired after not sleeping on the way over and waiting in the airport for 5 hours so we slept through most of the BA flight (really uncomfortable but I think it’s because we had exit row seats which didn’t recline).

The general plan for this trip was 5 nights in Dubrovnik with day trips to Lopud, Lokrum and Mljet, 5 nights on Hvar with a few day trips from there as well and then a night in Cavtat before flying home . Things definitely did not go as planned!


Day 1 – Dubrovnik (Sept 10th)

We arrived at the Dubrovnik airport around 3:30pm and were picked up by a driver arranged with Jadranka at Benussi apartments (28 euros or 200 kuna). As we drove closer to Dubrovnik we came around a corner with the old town was in full view – I couldn’t believe that it was even more gorgeous than any picture I’d ever seen. Our tiredness was definitely wearing off! It was short drive from the airport and we got to the apartment about a half hour later.

Jadranka met us at the parking area of the Hilton Imperial – their apartments are on a pedestrian street just behind the Hilton – and we walked just a few minutes to get there. She is a very nice host and showed us around our apartment and gave us a map with recommended restaurants, location of the market, locations of boats, etc. We had booked apartment number 2 and definitely weren’t disappointed. It looks exactly like the pictures on their web site (www.dubrovnikportal.com/benussi) and is very tastefully appointed. We had a separate bedroom, good sized bathroom with shower, nice little kitchen and an open dining/living area with a private balcony and terrace shared with apartment 1. The terrace is really beautiful with tons of fruit trees and views over the tops of many palm trees. It has a slight sea view but I didn’t miss more of a sea view because with the trees and the red roof tops, it really was perfect. I don’t think I have pictures of the views on my Yahoo photos link but Jadranka sent me some when I was trying to decide between apartments with ripe oranges and lemons which are gorgeous. Here’s the link for just those photos: http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jan...il&.src=ph

Even though we were really tired we got settled and then headed out to explore the old town and have a light dinner before going to bed. We walked to the Pile Gate (a few minutes from the apartment) and down Stradum and around some of little streets an alleys. I think we were more tired than we realized because I don’t remember if it was busy or what our first impressions were! We ended up in the old port and George really liked the look of Poklisar so we decided to stop there for a bite. We shared a salad and each had a pizza and a beer. It was really good and quite cheap – with tip we paid 200 kuna (169 kuna before tip) or $40 CDN.

We walked back to our apartment and were in bed by 8pm.

Day 2 – Dubrovnik (Sept 11th)

I got up at 6:30am to bright sunshine and a clear blue sky – I was dying to get out and explore but George was still asleep. I showered and read a bit but he still wasn’t moving so I had to go wake him up around 8am (he wasn’t happy as you can imagine!). We headed to the old town to get breakfast supplies and decided to check out the market. George is Greek and loves figs so he was very happy to see them all over the market. We bought some figs from one vendor for 10 kuna and then peaches and kiwi from another for 43 kuna I think.

We stopped at a café on Stradum for some cappuccinos and then headed back to the apartment stopping at the Konzum grocery store for Nescafe, bread, butter and jam on the way. George made us frappes and we ate our purchases on the terrace. It was really a great way to start the day.

However this took a while and I was getting anxious to get out and explore. I really wanted to walk the walls first thing but it was after 10am by the time we finished breakfast and I was worried that it would be too crowded. We headed down to the old town to check things out and since it didn’t look too bad, we headed up the walls (50kuna per person I think). It was a gorgeous walk – the views were stunning. It only took us about an hour though I’d read that you should plan on two hours. Maybe that’s if it’s really crowded.

We walked to the Ploce Gate and out to a café by the Revelin Fortress for coffee. It’s a beautiful spot with views of the old harbour. Then we were off to look for a swimming spot. I knew that Banje beach would be out this way so we kept walking until we saw signs for the East West Beach Club (http://www.ew-dubrovnik.com – the web site makes it look a bit obnoxious but it was pretty low key whenever we were there). We went down the steps and decided to spend some time here swimming and sun bathing. It was around 12:30pm I think and not crowded at all. It wasn’t cheap – 100 Kuna for two lounge chairs and 30 kuna for an umbrella – but it was comfortable and certainly not an outrageous amount of money. The only problem was that we forgot towels so once we got settled George headed out to buy us some beach towels and snacks for the afternoon.

We spent 3 or 4 hours there swimming and laying in the sun. The beach is pebbly (which we don’t mind at all) and the water was really clean and the most beautiful blue – the water in Croatia reminded me a lot of water in Greece which is also incredibly clean and gorgeous. The temperature of water was a bit shocking at first – I wasn’t expecting it to be that cold! – but we got used to it quickly and it was very refreshing. We finished the afternoon with salads and large bottle of water at the restaurant portion of EW Beach Club (don’t remember how much it was but I remember thinking it was reasonable especially considering the location).

We walked home via Stradum and I’d seen a sign the night before for a smoothie bar that I wanted to try out. We found it up a little alley off Stradum (it’s called smoothie bar and take away if you’re looking for it). I loved this place and it became a stop every afternoon after the beach (you’ll see that we got in to quite a routine). You could create your own smoothie with any fruit combination from the menu and add things like yoghurt, nuts, honey or other flavorings. I always ordered a three fruit combo with yoghurt and nuts – they were really good. A large one is 22 kuna.

After showering and resting a bit we headed out for dinner and came across Penatur. I’d read something about it in one of my guidebooks so we decided to give it a try. It was okay – and reasonable – but nothing amazing. I had a grilled steak (which I learned really means fried!), tomato salad and a glass of red wine and George had fish I think, a salad and a beer. We shared a large bottle of water and the total was 300 kuna including tip (about $59 CDN).

We decided to have ice cream for dessert and saw a sign for Dolce Vita on another one of those little alleys off Stradum and decided to give it a try. George got pistachio and tiramisu and I got pistachio and hazelnut. Both were really good but I loved the hazelnut. Price for two double cones was 20 kuna.

Day 3 – Dubrovnik (Sept 12th)

George begged me to let him sleep if I woke up early so I did and headed out to the market by myself just before 8am. I went back to the fig stall and this time got a half kilo because they were so good (same price as yesterday – it seems that not matter how many figs we bought, the price was the same!) and some more peaches. I had a cappuccino on Stradum again and it is so nice there early in the morning. There are no bus or cruise tours yet, just locals going to work and school. It’s a great time to be in the old town – if your clock is off from jet lag and you can get up that early!

After breakfast on our terrace again, we headed toward the old port to go to Lokrum for the day. It’s a really beautiful, very green island. We walked to the monastery and then around the circumference and up to the fortress. I couldn’t believe how steep that path was. There are beautiful views of the old town and the island so it was definitely worth it. We were ready for a swim after that and went down to find a spot among the rocks. Again the water was gorgeous and we spent a few more hours swimming and sun bathing before heading back to Dubrovnik. And, of course, we stopped at the smoothie bar on the way.

For dinner we decided to try one of Jadranka’s recommendations and headed off in search off Amoret. It’s in a little square near the Cathedral and was one of my favorite meals in Dubrovnik – we ate there twice. I think we each had tomato salads, I had a casserole type dish that I wish I could remember the name of (it was amazing) and George had grilled calamari and a side dish I think. We each had a beer and shared a large bottle of water and it was 270 kuna with tip.

We decided to try a different place for ice cream and just picked one on Stradum. It was okay but not as good as Dolce Vita and twice as much. It would Dolce Vita from now on.


Day 4 – Dubrovnik (Sept 13th)

You’ll notice that I originally had planned to visit Lopud and Mljet from Dubrovnik but we couldn’t seem to bring ourselves to leave. Mljet seemed like too much hassle – early bus to the new port to catch a 9am catamaran – but maybe we could go to Lopud tomorrow (we were getting very lazy).

After our usual breakfast, we headed out for a walk in the Ploce area to check out the views back to the old town (after stopping for a coffee at the Revelin Café again). We ended up walking out to just before the Hotel Belvedere. The views are gorgeous and with numerous photo stops it took us about an hour there and back. Since we’re in full lazy mode by now we went straight to EW Beach Club again for the afternoon.

After a smoothie stop, shower and rest we headed out for dinner. George really liked Poklisar and it’s location so we went there. I had a salad and grilled fish on a great ratatouille-type dish and George had a tomato salad and a great pasta dish. I think we each got a glass of wine, shared a large bottle water and the total was 344 kuna with tip.


There was an art exhibit that caught my eye so we stopped in to the Sponza Palace on the way home. There were some beautiful modern paintings but there was another room off the side that looked like a memorial to soldiers who dies during the war so we went in there as well. There was a screen with pictures that someone had taken during the war showing the damage that was done to the old town. It was disturbing to think that this had happened only 15 years ago but what an amazing job was done on the restoration. I really recommend going to see these images.

And then we were off for ice cream and home.


Day 5 – Dubrovnik (Sept 14th)

The weather has been perfect and it’s breakfast on the terrace again. We had toyed with the idea of going to the Elaphite Islands and spoke to one of the guys in the old port the night before. We headed down to the old port but when we realized the boat had no shade, decided against it. And I think we just wanted to stay in Dubrovnik. So we headed out to Ploce again to do to the Museum of Modern Art before heading to the beach yet again.

The Museum is in a beautiful building but to say we didn’t get the artist whose work was on exhibit would be an understatement! The building is very nice though and there’s a great terrace on the second or third floor that has stunning views of the old town. That alone was worth the admission price.

And then it was off to EW Beach Club. We broke up the swimming and sunbathing this time with lunch at their restaurant. It was very good and I remember thinking quite reasonable given the location (lost that receipt though so we don’t have the exact amount).

Smoothie bar on the way home and dinner was at Amoret again. We both ordered the same mains (they were so good) and the bill was 281 kuna with tip this time. Ice cream at Dolce Vita and then home.

Day 6 – Leaving Dubrovnik (Sept 15th)

I really didn’t want to leave Dubrovnik. I loved this city. Even though the old town got packed with tours during the day, we were at the beach and by the time we got back they were gone.

We had arranged to pick up our car at 9am so after packing we went to Hilton parking lot where we had arranged to meet. We rented through Economycarrentals.com and everything went very smoothly. Wouldn’t hesitate to rent from them again and they were the cheapest I could find (Seat Ibiza 5-door, 1.4L engine for 6 days was 179 euros and paid approx. another 25 euros for the extra insurance). After picking up the car we put it in the Hilton parking lot to go get breakfast. This wasn’t cheap but it was easy and we weren’t going to be long.

We went to the smoothie bar for breakfast – muesli with fruit and yoghurt for me, croissants (3) and a smoothie for George. As you can tell, we really liked this place and the staff is very nice.

It had clouded over and started to rain but we decided to cram in a few things we’d missed before heading to Hvar. We went to the Cathedral to see the interior – it was okay. And then we went to the Franciscan Monastery but it was full of tours from a cruise ship. We went through very quickly because it was sooooo crowded. I wish we’d had more time there but we had to get going.

We headed out of Dubrovnik and I wished we gotten out of the old town to explore a little more. Lapad and Babin Kuk looked very nice. The drive to Drvenik was easy and quite scenic. We got there in about 2 - 2½ hours and only had to wait 40 minutes for the next ferry. It started to rain again on the ferry and, unfortunately for us, a system was rolling in that would last the next four days.

We started out from Sucuraj when George realized that the gas gauge was opposite and we didn’t have a full tank, we were almost empty. And I knew that this end of the island was pretty quiet so we were starting to freak out a bit. We pulled over and called the contact at our apartment and she told us that the closest gas station would be in Jelsa which was about 40kms away – great. We decided to give it a try and off we went on the white knuckle drive of death. And it really was! When I read about others who said how bad the road was I assumed that it was like Greek Islands and that they just hadn’t experienced roads like that before. Boy was I wrong. I could never have imagined a road like that. There is no shoulder at all and at the end of your lane the road just drops off – sometimes not far and sometimes straight off the edge of a serious cliff. So add that stress to the fact that we were praying not to run out of gas and you can imagine what a great time we were having.

Somehow we made it to Jelsa before running out of gas and survived the drive. We realized after leaving Jelsa that we were hungry so we decided to stop in Stari Grad for a quick bit before continuing on to Hvar town. Stari Grad is very pretty and we walked around a bit to check it out. There seemed to be only cafes open so we went to a bakery and then the market for some fruit (figs included of course) to tie us over. It was a short drive to Hvar and after a few wrong turns we found our apartment.

I had booked us at Villa Domus Marini which is about a 5 minute walk along the water from the old town. We could park the car which was handy too. We didn’t get the room I had booked but I didn’t realize it until a few days later and it wasn’t a big deal so we didn’t bother mentioning it. The apartment we did have was huge and had a nice balcony on the side. The décor however left a lot to be desired but, again, that’s not such a big deal. We had two bedrooms, a large bathroom with a washing machine, kitchen and large living room/dining room plus the balcony.

The rain had subsided but it was still cloudy and cool. We headed in to the old town for a walk and dinner. We ended up at Hanibal on the square and ate inside because it was cool. We got there early (around 7pm) and got a table but a lot were reserved because of the weather. The restaurant is very pretty inside and I really enjoyed it but it wasn’t George’s favorite. We both had salads and two different fish stews. George had the traditional gregada (sp?) and I had something similar but with a tomato and red wine sauce. We got a half liter of house wine and large bottle of water. This was definitely more expensive than what we’d been paying in Dubrovnik but still not more than we’d pay in Canada. Our bill was 483 kuna and we left another 70 kuna tip (about $109 CDN total).

I should mention that we were tipping 10-15% depending on the service and didn’t realize until almost the end of our trip that a lot of places include service. When service is included we were told that only 5% more is expected. Oh well! Things were still reasonable for us and we weren’t spending our money shopping so we didn’t regret it.

We stopped for ice cream but it wasn’t as good as Dolce Vita, actually it was bad so that was the last ice cream.


Day 7 – Hvar (Sept 16th)

We didn’t sleep at all because there was a family with two young, very poorly behaved children above us who were either screaming, crying or dragging furniture across the floor (at least that’s what it sounded like) all night and early morning. It thundered and poured all night so I could understand that maybe the sound scared them. However, they cried all night regardless of whether or not there was thunder and then they woke up at 6am and started dragging things across the floor! I was psychotic – there is no way I could stay here for 5 nights.

We had no choice but to get up and it was pouring so we went to the grocery store almost next door for breakfast supplies and ate in our room. When the rain looked like it had subsided we headed out to check out the old town. The walk along the water was really very nice and not too long that you felt like it was inconvenient. Anyway, we wandered around and decided to stop for a drink on the harbour. The lounge/bar of the new Hotel Riva had great lounge seating that was well spread out (which is great for us non-smokers in a land of smokers). We found out when we got there that the power as out so no coffees but we could have cold drinks so I ordered a prosek and George had a fruit salad. Everything was overpriced and the service wasn’t the greatest but it was just so comfortable that we didn’t mind at all. I quite liked it and was contemplating moving there if the screaming baby situation didn’t get better.

We decided to keep walking and exploring so we left and no sooner had walked 10 steps and it started to pour. I’m talking torrential rains and we ducked under an awning to see if it would pass. After quite a few minutes there was no break in sight so we decided to get wet and head home. We took a little back alley because it was too windy along the water and the water flowing down was unbelievable. There were waterfalls down all of the steps and it was gushing down to the sea. It was really quite something to see. We made it back and we were soaked completely through. After a hot shower and some dry clothes we settled in for some reading – the power was still out.

It rained most of the day (and the little holy terrors above us were in fine form) but stopped later in the afternoon. We decided to head out again early evening for dinner (we really weren’t that hungry since we’d eaten a half a loaf of bread with butter and jam left over from breakfast). We had run in to the owner earlier and asked when the family above us was leaving and he thought it was the 18th but would check and let us know. We came up before we went to dinner and told us that they were leaving the next day and that the reason we didn’t have the room I booked was because they were in the apt we had now originally but didn’t like it so they moved them to the one I had booked. I liked this family even less if that was possible. 

Anyway, off to dinner. We ended up at Bounty along the inner harbour and George had a tomato salad, grilled sea bass, boiled potatoes with swiss chard and a beer. I wanted lamb on a spit but they didn’t have it so I had mixed grilled meat with boiled potatoes, a salad and beer. We shared a bottle of water again and the bill was closer to what we’d been paying in Dubrovnik (lost the receipt but it was very reasonable for what we had). George loved the food here was I thought it was just okay.

Day 8 – Hvar (Sept 17th)

Woke up to clouds and wind but no rain- yet. We went to the square for cappuccinos and breakfast supplies from Konzum and the market. After breakfast it was pretty obvious that the sun wasn’t going make a showing so we decided to get in the car and explore the island a bit.

We first headed to Zavala via Pitve. Pitve is very pretty and we stopped for a few photos. It was actually sunny in Zavala but the wind was unbelievable. We walked around by the water a bit, it was very pretty but way too cold so we headed back to the car.

We decided to stop in Jelsa again because we didn’t see much during our gas stop. We walked around by the water and decided to have lunch here. We walked to the end of the harbour and stopped at a nice looking pizza/pasta place. We sat inside because it had started to rain again. We split a Greek salad and I had spaghetti bolognese while George had a pizza and a coke (and we shared a large bottle of water). My plate of spaghetti was huge and I really liked it but George had to finish it for me. Total bill was 200 kuna with tip.

We walked around a bit after lunch and then it started to pour (of course!) so we headed for the car. We drove to Vrboska but it was still raining so we drove along the water a bit. It’s a very cute place and I would like to have spent a little more time – if it wasn’t raining. Then we decided to go to Stari Grad again because their market was the only one we’d found figs in so far and we wanted to buy breakfast supplies. We walked along the water toward the ferry terminal – it’s a very pretty walk – and back before going to the market.

Back in Hvar and the rain finally stopped but it was still very windy and cool. We decided to go to Luna for dinner and went up to their sheltered terrace. It’s a very pretty space. The menu is mostly fish so I decided to get sea bass in a caper and white wine sauce, grilled zucchini and I think I had a stuffed eggplant starter. I don’t remember what George had but he liked it! I think we each got a glass of wine and shared a bottle of water. The bill was 344 kuna and we tipped 60 kuna.


Day 9 – Hvar (Sept 18th)

We hadn’t really done much to this point and hadn’t taken any pictures yet hoping that the weather would change. But I had to accept that it wasn’t getting any better (rain and clouds were forecasted until the 20th) and decided that we should go up to the castle today. After breakfast and a coffee at Café Pjaca we headed up to the castle – in the rain. The views really were gorgeous the whole way up and once we got to the castle. After a few pictures we headed down to the town again and looked for a lunch spot.

We were in one of the little pedestrian streets that run parallel to the square and came across restaurant Yaksa. I had noticed it last night when we were wondering around and really liked the look of it and, since it was starting to rain again, we decided to give it a try. The interior is really well done. The lunch menu is small but it is stellar. I ordered a glass of white wine from Sveti Klement (30 kuna) and it was fantastic (George got a beer). We shared a rocket and parmesan salad (sooo good), George had fettuccine in a tomato, basil sauce that was out of this world and I had chicken tenders with tomato and cheese on toasted bread (very good but not as good as the pasta!). We each had a cappuccino and George ordered the chocolate soufflé for dessert. It turned out to be a lava type cake with cake on the outside and gooey chocolate oozing on the inside. It was amazing. We both really liked this restaurant and agreed to come back for dinner.

Not much happened between then and dinner so on to dinner! We sat outside in their very pretty courtyard which was mostly covered (in case it started to rain again!). I got the same salad (all to myself this time), the lamb with a “potato salad” and a glass of the Sveti Klement red wine (60 kuna) this time – what a fantastic wine. I forget what starter George had and he also got the lamb and a glass of the same red wine. We each got a chocolate soufflé for dessert this time. I loved this meal too. It was definitely the most expensive meal we had but it was the only one we had dessert in and the wine was very expensive. If you took those two out of the equation it wouldn’t have been too much more than everywhere else we’d gone. Total bill was 612 kuna and we left 700 kuna. It was worth every cent and I would have gladly eaten every meal there.


Day 10 – Hvar (Sept 19th)

The sun was actually out when we woke up so we dashed out and went back up to the castle to re-take all of our pictures from the day before! Then we had cappuccinos on the square and bought breakfast at the market. After breakfast on our balcony I was anxious to get some sun on my fading tan so we headed to the harbour to catch a boat to Palmizana.

We got there at 11:30am and wondered over to the little cove on the opposite side to lay on the rocks and swim. The water here was cool too but it was beautiful and we stayed for a few hours before moving to a café for salads and pizza. We left around 5pm and headed home to clean up.

George wanted to go back to Bounty so that’s where we ended up for dinner. He ordered the same thing and still no lamb on a spit for me so I ordered the filet mignon. It wasn’t bad and George loved his fish. We headed home to pack.

Day 11 – Leaving Hvar (Sept 20th)

I didn’t want to waste a sunny day in the car so left at 7am to catch the 9:45am ferry from Sucuraj. It only took us 90 minutes to get there so we had tons of time. We found a place for coffee and bought some cookies, fruit and milk from Konzum for the trip.

We were flying out of Dubrovnik and I booked our last night in Cavtat to check it out and because it was so close to the airport.

We stopped in Zaton Mali for lunch at a place on the water recommended in my Time Out Guide – Gverovic-Orsan. It’s right off the main road and you’d never guess how nice it is from there. It turned out to be only fish (I don’t mind fish but I don’t like shellfish and calamari/octopus at all) so I was struggling to come up with something to order. I got a tomato salad and we decided to share a grilled fish with boiled potatoes and swiss chard on the side. George got an octopus salad and we shared a quarter liter of wine. The fish turned out to be better than I expected and the view was just so nice that we decided to stay for dessert. George got crème caramel (didn’t love it) and I got cheesecake. I was curious to see what Croatian cheesecake would be and it’s nothing like ours but it was very good. It was an expensive lunch (419 kuna before tip) but it was such a nice spot that we didn’t mind.

We drove straight to Cavtat and found our hotel before returning the car. Haus am Meer (www.snufie.de) was easy to find and we dropped off our luggage. Our room was very nicely furnished but it was smaller than we’d been used to in apartments – fine for one night though and only a short walk down to the harbour.

The local car rental company (H&M) have an office at the airport and let us return the car there so we dropped the car off and took a cab back to Cavtat. It started to rain again but it didn’t look like it would last so we had the cab drop off us in the town.

We both really liked Cavtat. It’s very pretty and has a laid back, easy going feel to it. I wouldn’t give up staying in Dubrovnik for anything but I can see why people might prefer it here. We took a walk around the headland which was gorgeous and probably had a coffee somewhere and then headed back to the hotel.

We went back down for dinner and really liked the look of a restaurant at the end of the harbour (before the pedestrian walk along the headland starts) that unfortunately I’ve forgotten the name of and lost the receipt for. Anyway, it was very pretty so we decided to give it a try. I got grilled vegetables and steak in red wine sauce (that came with vegetables) and George got stuffed eggplant and stuffed veal (also with vegetables) and we shared a half liter of wine and water. The food was very good and we would have stayed for dessert but a very loud group of smokers sat down right next to us so we decided to leave.


Day 12 – Flying to London (Sept 21st)

Breakfast was included at the hotel so we ate there (very nice buffet with eggs cooked to order) and then headed down to town to walk along the other headland near Hotel Croatia. We went for a drink at this really cool bar on the first pedestrian walkway with a fantastic view, had a late lunch and then headed to the airport.

The flight was fine and we spent the night at the Arora International near Gatwick before flying to Toronto the next day.

Forgot to post the link for my photos (a very edited list of the millions I took of Dubrovnik): http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jan.../ph//my_photos

Jana....this is a wonderful trip report, and I learned a lot about Dubrovnik and Hvar. The photos were fabulous and I feel like hopping on the next plane to Croatia. Instead, I'll have to wait till May of 2008, when we plan to go. Thanks so much for taking the time to share your trip with us.

Hi Janaturner - Great report and you get a GOLD STAR star for being one of the first September in Croatia Fodorites to post a trip report. I am almost starting to think of doing one! I can't wait to look at the pic's tomorrow.

Good Job and Thanks!

Hi janaturner... gold star from me also... thank you for the detailed report. We were there in May and loved it..but i'm so sorry i missed the smoothie bar. It sounds like exactly what we were missing. Next time for sure. I agree with your sentiments on Dubrovnik. Though when we were there, the EW bar was under construction.. a huge buldozer drove around us the entire time, and huge rocks (not pebbles like you mentioned). O well, we did miss the hoards of tourists pretty much. Thanks again!!

ok, happyC - your turn.. take me back! \/

Thanks for your comments everyone. I was really worried that it was too long! It was too long for me to go back and proof read so if you see something that doesn't quite make sense, that's why.

HappyCheesehead - looking forward to your report.

Thank you so much for posting a trip report Jana! I loved reading every word of it, it sure wasn't to long in my opinion. I'm so glad you enjoyed the Benussi home as much as we did. It really feels like home.

Thanks again for a great report!

Jana, thanks for the report. We were in Croatia a couple of years ago. We loved it and are excited that our upcoming cruise will stop at Dubrovnik if only for 8 hours or so. One thing amazes/troubles me, however, about both your experience and mine in Hvar. They call it the sunny island and boast that it has like 350 sunny days or so. So why did both you and I get caught in driving rainstorms while there? I figured I got one of their rare rainy days, but now that I hear of your experience, I'm beginning to wonder about truth in advertising. At any rate, great report about travel in a wonderful country.

great report. Thanks for bringing my trip alive again!

sorry about the annoying family above; geesh!

Anyway, it sounds as if you had a lovely time and welcome home.

I was just wondering when the September people's reports would start coming in!
Pity about that rain. We experienced it in Dubrovnik -it really stands off the ground,doesn't it!

Jana-- great report. We're leaving on our trip in a week -- one week in Dubrovnik & one in Hvar, and beyond that we haven't made specific plans. We figure to just let it happen as we feel like it, pretty much the way you guys did. Driving around Hvar sounds a bit intimidating, although from what I've read on this site, there is a new, alternate road for the worst one across the mountains. Still . . . well, we'll see about that when we get there.

JulieVikmanis - the "sunny Hvar" thing had me perplexed too! As we left Dubrovnik in cloud I was so sure it would be sunny when we got to Hvar... We've decided that late September is just too iffy for most of Europe. We got caught at the end of a trip to Rome and the Amalfi Coast in 2004 too.

ckwald - the only part of the drive on Hvar that's "interesting" is from Sucuraj to about Jelsa. After that it's normal (as in guard rails and shoulders!). I wouldn't let it put you off if you're thinking of the Drvenik-Sucuraj ferry though. It's nerve wracking but you really just have to go slow and concentrate. Whoever's doing the driving should get extra brownie points though! Buses do that drive all the time and they're a lot bigger than your car. It makes a great conversation piece too.

Loved the pics Jana! We stayed at the Villa Domus Marini too, but we had the studio with the big stone terrace, which I loved. Room was great, bed comfy, neighbors quiet, but I was not too fond of the bathroom (some mold) and the gold velour upholstered armchairs in my room. They had seen better days. An interesting anecdote, (if I talk about my trip enough in other posts maybe I don't have to do my own??). At Villa Domus Marini our coffee maker did not work so hubby took it out to "Grandpa" who cheerfully agreed to look at it. He had John follow him down to the bachelor pad/work room he has set up under the stairs and agreed - Yep - it was broken! Nothing he could do about it, but he insisted hubby have a shot of the homemade hootch he had down there, (about the color and consistancy of motor oil reports DH) and hubby cheerfully complied. It was 9am.

The coffee maker never did work, but we had an electric kettle and picked up some instant coffee so all was well. He also invited hubby to come back the next morning to watch ultimate fighting with him but, wisely, DH politely declined.

Lovely trip report, but quite hard to read on my machine. The one very long URL you posted made the whole post much wider than my screen, so I had to keep scrolling back and forth to read it. Well worth it, but time consuming.

Suggest you use Tinyurl.

HappyCheesehead - glad to hear you made out okay at Domus Marini. I quite liked "Grandpa" and he showed me that room too! But didn't offer me a drink, I'm insulted now. Weren't some of the "design" choices in the apt's shocking? Ours had purple, yellow, blue, and red walls and if you stood in the hall you could see them all meeting!! But we really didn't mind it because the apt was so large - it was very comfortable. Funny you mention the bathroom because ours just didn't seem clean either.

And you're not off the hook for a report.