bluefan

First of all, a BIG thank you to the regular Fodorites on this Italy board. Our May '03 Rome-Amalfi Coast 6-day trip was shorter than I ever wished but it was fantastic and went smoothly thanks to all the wonderful posters here on this forum. It was our first visit to Europe. I had a great time spending countless hours absorbing all the insights offered to myself and others from Bob the Navigator, Bookchick, capo, Elaine (especially for the detailed info and rec for La Tartaruga), GAC, Grinisa, Rex and so many other past and present posters. And I would especially like to thank Vincenzo who corresponded with me via e-mail to help me set my itinerary...unfortunately, we never got the chance to meet in person. Thank you also to the other posters who live in Italy (e.g. Alice Twain, BATUFFOLINA) who take the time to help foreigners best appreciate their wonderful country. In fact, every Italian we came across (except for our friendly "official" taxi driver in Naples which is another story) was very gracious and extremely helpful. I must have said "grazie" a thousand times during my brief visit. One day, I wish I can return the favor and say "prego."

bluefan

On to my suggestions to other first-timers...

1. Stop worrying about finding the perfect hotel in Rome. You're not going to Rome to lounge in the comfort of a resort that caters to your every whim. You'll probably spend most of your awake hours touring this amazing city. Having a hotel in a central location should be the most important factor to any first-timer to Rome...especially if you're more of the self-service type. I too fretted for a while after realizing our initial 4-star choice wasn't going to honor a quoted weekend rate, so I finally took the plunge and pressed the button to reserve the 3-star Hotel Cesari on venere.com because of the relatively low rates for a triple room. I never could have been happier with that decision. We loved our stay at the Cesari because it was right smack in the middle between the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain. In just the first 1.5 hours (no lie) of our stay, we strolled to the Trevi Fountain, climbed the Spanish Steps, strolled over to Piazza del Popolo, made our way down Via del Corso stopping for pizza, wandered through Piazza Colonna and Piazza Montecitorio to Piazza della Rotonda to view the Pantheon, back up to Della Palma to have their yummy fruity gelato for our walk back to the hotel. That?s what a central hotel will allow...the opportunity for you to cover the most ground without worrying about the various other modes of transportation (taxi, bus, subway), which also turned out to be more convenient, efficient and inexpensive than I had anticipated. Studying the maps for a little while before I went gave me a real good sense of direction when I got there...but then again, Rome is easy enough to roam. Next time I visit, I'll stay at the Cesari or just get an apartment for a week.

bluefan

2. Stop wondering about what clothes to wear. In fact, I didn't find many of the local Italians to be terribly fashionable. My opinion is that people in colder cities such as NY and London dressed better. And besides, you're going to stick out as a tourist anyways so you might as well wear something that's comfortable. Jeans were spotted everywhere as were colored sneakers (especially those red Pumas that seem to be popular in both Rome and London) but then again, fashion could change in a blink of an eye. Image is not everything...attitude is!

I wore dress shoes to my visit to the Vatican and regretted it when I had to rush from the museum all the way over to the Scavi office. I tore up my feet so bad, I had blisters the size and look of peanut shells from which I would never recover...but I still continued my efforts to cover nearly every inch of Rome by foot in just 3.5 days. My advice is if you plan to walk as much as possible, do get a pair of comfortable shoes that have the largest amount of cushion in the soles. Only you will care if they're Mephistos or not...although I did see a few decent-looking pairs at a Mephisto shop along Via Sistina a third less (200 euros plus) than comparable ones here ($325 plus). You will want something that will absorb all the shock of walking up and down the hills and steps as well as providing you with plenty of traction.

Do bring a light rain jacket just in case the weather turns bad, which was only for very brief periods during our stay in May. I got a sack jack on sale for $20 at Eddie Bauer that did the trick, which was also comforting on the top of the ferry jets to Sorrento and Capri.

bluefan

3. Avoid the Via Veneto area unless you're feeling homesick...I didn't go all the way to Rome to experience an extension of America nor loud, obnoxious groups with a distinctive drawl...apologies to any considerate Texans out there. But I have to admit, the street is visually appealing and there are several elegant hotels and cafes fronting it making it a popular place for wealthy Americans. We stayed at the 5-star Boscolo Hotel Aleph in that region for two nights at apparently fabulous rates (until we saw our doinky room). It was definitely ultra-hip and the rain-bath shower was heavenly, but we sorely missed the location and charm of the rather plain Hotel Cesari.

4. Leave your fears of theft behind. I stopped wearing the uncomfortable money belt until our visit to Naples. Leave behind your passports, tickets and add'l credit cards in the hotel room safe. Maybe the gypsies and thieves flock to Rome in July and August but I certainly didn't see or encounter one instance of the much-feared cardboard-toting gypsy children, scooter thieves, backpack knifers, deliberate clothe stainers, baby-throwing gypsy, short-or-lira-changing vendor, et al. once during our entire stay in Rome during May. And I strolled around and in Termini near midnight. Live in LA or NY for a while and Rome is a cakewalk. I saw a slight smattering of street beggars but they didn't confront my immediate space. Although it's still better to be safe than sorry...don't suffer any theft anxiety.

5. Take more film or digital memory than you could possibly imagine. My wife thought I was crazy to take 10 rolls (24exp) for a 11 day trip to Rome, the Amalfi Coast and London. I ran out of film before I left Italy after only 7 days!

6. Stretch your neck out before entering the museums and churches of Rome...never before have I twisted my neck so much as I did when absorbing the wondrous works (domes, naves, ceilings, artwork, floor mosaics, etc.) of Italian artists. I'm used to looking at everything at eye level but not in Rome. Beauty is everywhere...especially above and below you. Now I know why they say you could never have enough time in Rome. Every single room out of thousands deserves ten minutes or more.

bluefan

7. Do walk into as many churches as you possibly can...even the small ones. They are wondrous places to rest your tired feet (oops I meant prayer) and to soak in marvelous serenity. As much as I was enthralled by the enormous wonder that is St. Peter's, I was equally moved by lesser churches such as Borromini's San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, Bernini's Sant'Andrea al Quirinale, the elegant Santa Maria sopra Minerva and several others. And I haven't yet seen Santa Maria Maggiore, San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains) and San Giovanni in Laterno. There's well over 200 churches in Rome, and I imagine each of them are uniquely stunning. Going on an orientation hike with Scala Reale really left me appreciating the ones I visited because of their enthusiastic guides who provided a brief history and highlight of each of the ones visited.

8. If you've made the wise decision to pack light, make sure you know before-hand exactly the location of lavenderias (laundromats), hours of operation, and be sure to squeeze in the time at reasonable hours. By the time I was ready to tackle my laundry at the Onda Blu near Termini close to midnight, it was closed despite their web site listing 1am. By that time, I was much too tired to try to locate another one. If you decide to let your hotel do it, be prepared for sticker-shock. The laundry prices listed at the 3-star Cesari were 6 euros for one shirt, similar for a pair of socks or underwear, and 8 euros for pants. I didn't bother to check the prices at the 5-star Aleph. A hotel laundry bill for my wife and I would have exceeded 100 euros, so I just sink-washed the necessities. Those Woolite packs really do the job and leave a pleasant scent that isn't too feminine. Whoever offered the advice of rolling up your wet clothes in a towel and stomping on it before hanging...God bless you. That alone dried up my Coolmax items in a jiffy.

bluefan

9. Do try to stay in Rome during a Sunday afternoon. We sat at a bench in the Villa Borghese after a visit to the Galleria to observe all the Italian families strolling through this great park. We even got some hilarious laughing fits due to watching a few quirky Italians. I know that sounds mean but I'm sure we gave several Italians a barrel of laughs due to our naivety. Strolling besides the bikers and roller-bladers along Viale delle Magnolie to the Pincio terrace overlooking the festivities taking place at the grand Piazza del Popolo down below was a treat. From what I've heard, there's plenty of other wonderful strolls to take on a Sunday in Rome like the Via dei Fori Imperiali or the Appian Way. Several popular streets are closed to vehicles on a Sunday, and it would be a shame to miss out on a wonderful opportunity to view the Roman locals at leisure.

10. If your legs can handle it, do hike up to Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi at Gianicolo (Janiculum) from Trastevere to soak in the best panoramic view of Rome. You could appreciate the view even more if you had an idea of what you're looking at (check out this web page: www.romanhomes.com/rome-views.htm). And if you're up for it, visit the botanical gardens below.

11. If you get the chance, visit the opulent Palazzo del Quirinale, the presidential residence that used to be a papal summer residence. I believe it's only open on Sundays. The rich tapestries, immense chapel, chandeliers, drapery, artwork, ceilings, everything was luxurious. We were probably the only Americans amidst the relatively small crowd visiting this palace during our one hour visit there. I would love to be a palace guard there and wear the old-fashioned outfit (hat, boots and all) but unfortunately I don't meet the height requirement of 6'4".

12. If you want to get the best uncrowded shots of major tourist sites, get to them in the morning before 9am. We would eat breakfast at the earliest available time (7am) and get to the Trevi Fountain or Spanish Steps by 8:15am. I have a hard time getting up before 9am on a normal day, but I had no problems in Rome due to all my excitement. There's very few people around that early so we got several snapshots of these incredible sites with just us in it.

bluefan

That's all that I have for now other than a few quickies below:

13. Don't ask "dove (DOH-veh) ATM?" but rather "dove bancomat?" otherwise you'll get blank stares.
14. Nearly every local in Rome we encountered spoke sufficient English for our intended purpose...but do learn key Italian phrases. Can't say the same of Naples. By the way, those Swiss Guards at the Vatican spoke excellent English...very helpful those colorful characters were.
15. Unless you like eating pasta that's a little firmer than you're used to here in the States, ask the waiter to have it cooked until it's soft. I only encountered this at the first restaurant we ate at, but I've heard it's somewhat commonplace.
16. I'll have to remember to take binoculars, ear and nose plugs the next time I visit the majestic Sistine Chapel. Although it was extremely beautiful to the naked eye, I think having binoculars would have made it even more enthralling. Body odor akin to the smell of fried artichokes permeated this crowded site. Although that's exactly what I ate the night before...I obviously wasn't the only one!
17. Get the street address or general vicinity of all the recommended gelaterias before you go. I mapped them out before I went and tried them all: San Crispino (via Panetteria 42; NE of Trevi Fountain), Giolitti (via Uffici del Vicario 40; W of P. Montecitorio), Tre Scalini (via SS Quattro 30, P. Navona) and Della Palma (via della Maddalena 20), my fav, for its fruity gelatos, especially the melon, but get whatever is in season. Also try the tartufo at Gelateria da Quinto (W of P. Navona), which was like a huge chocolate sundae for only 2 Euros. Thank you to the Fodorite who recommended that one. I tried several others. I admit...I'm a gelato hound as I must have had at least 10 double/triple scoops in my 3.5 days in Rome but they were much deserved after exhausting walks.

bluefan

I hope you can tell from the above that I loved Roma. It's hard to describe in words but an overwhelming feeling of comfort enveloped me during my short stay there despite all the traffic, crowds and pollution. Rome wasn't so foreign that I felt uncomfortable yet it was foreign enough that I was excited to immerse myself in a different culture. I've got to get back!

jody

Thanks for a most enjoyable trip report...now I am aching to return to Roma!

HowardR

Wonderful report, bluefan. You truly have captured the essence of Rome.

dln

My parents always bring two small lightweight binoculars with them to Italy. They used to share, but there was always so much to look at that they got impatient waiting for turns, and now each has their own! They commented that their binoculars get more of a workout than the camera. Great for seeing the small details, both painted and carved, on those soaring ceilings of churchs and monuments.

Ann509

Great trip report. I can't wait for my first visit in October. What map did you use to get around Rome?

bluefan

Ann509, I can't recall because I left it on a park bench in Trastevere before I ventured along via Garibaldi towards Janiculum. I was glad I brought along a compass. The map I used was one of the blue plastic-coated ones (not Nat'l Geographic or Streetwise, which I'm sure was sufficient) that I picked up at Barnes & Noble. The street and site names were only in Italian so it was a little confusing when trying to locate something in its English name, but it was great when I finally arrived in Rome.

capo

Very nice writing, bluefan. Glad you fell in love with Rome, its treasures and its pleasures.

Like you, we sat on a bench in the Villa Borghese after a Sunday visit to the Galleria and had a great time watching all the Italian families.

So you saw the "dueling churches" (Borromini's San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane & Bernini's Sant'Andrea al Quirinale) eh? Good. I love both of them. And Santa Maria sopra Minerva is another church I really like, especially for the gorgeous blue color on the ceiling.

Thanks for your post.

bobthenavigator

Buona sera Bluefan, What a terrific report packed with a wealth of practical info--I heartily concur. I plan to email this thread to a client who will be honeymooning in Rome. I love your pragmatism--good stuff !

bookchick

Bravissimo, bluefan! You are now an official Italophile of the Fodor's European "Talk" Site! Welcome, welcome, welcome!!! And now you have all this practical, well-earned experience to share, too, and that's wonderful. So glad you had a good time. Can't wait to get back to Rome--my theory is that it doesn't rhyme with "home" for nothing!!

BC

Grinisa

Welcome home bluefan although I'm pretty sure you'd rather still be in Italy1 So happy you loved Rome as I do. I completely agree with your #7 on visiting churches, in fact, I seek out the small, obscure ones that are hardly ever open. So you liked gelateria da Quinto? Great! It's one of my favorites too. Thanks for the report.

colleenk

Thanks for the report bluefan- I'm leaving tomorrow for Roma (2nd time) and am so excited! Your report just added to my excitement- thanks for sharing especially about the churches and gelato!
colleenk

axelrod6

I have saved all of your terrific information for my upcoming first trip - terrific report!

iluvitaly

your rule number 7 is my rule number 1 since i discovered the wonderful art and architecture of italian churches.
and i think there are closer to 1000 churches in rome...you will have many reasons to return.
(and one of my favorites is san carlo alle quattro fontane also.)
you offered good advice~~
glad you had such a wonderful time!