rhkkmk

indiana... in retrospect, the man wanted us to go with him...a robbery for sure...

he would have gotten almost nothing from us. wallet left in safe with passports and less than 100 E on me and only one credit card.... our landlord had warned us to be very careful...

don't think we would return to B for this very reason--way tooooo many places in the world to visit without these issues.

later i will write about our dinner last night.

off to malaga area shortly.

indianapearl

We love B. and would always return, but we were warned before our first trip to Espana that unemployment is quite high, consequently a lot of petty thefts, suitcases snatched,, cameras. Cops do nothing, so travelers have to use their wits. I never expected to be barfed on from a balcony overhead!

SueHuml

Hey Bob and Karen, great to visit with you here rather than the Asia Board. I'm currently pining for Thailand as back here in Chicago it is so dreary and cold.

As usual I'm enjoying your report and, like others am sorry about the poo attack. Something like that would for sure spoil my enjoyment of the area as I'd be forever on the alert of something else similar or worse happening to me. One of the most important things of any vacation for me is feeling relaxed and to a great extent safe.
Though I'm not a regular on the Europe Board, we do visit Europe most years and I'm just today booking a 13 day trip "home" to the UK for early September, a few days in London, and some more in the Cotswolds visiting with family. Just hate the taxes that are added to each ticket now, it really does eliminate really cheap airfares. We are paying an extra $400 just for taxes on our coach Chicago/Heathrow tickets.
Looking forward to the rest of your report and, of course a rundown of your dining escapades.
Sue

simpsonc510

"Barfalona".... I love it! (but it's still a shame that such events happen there) But, B and K, I have to agree that there are so many other places to visit and not have to deal with such idiotic behavior on the part of the locals, who are trying to rip you off!!!! Puts a black eye on this lovely city.

Sue, hoping for an early spring just 3 hours 'downstate' from you. Looking forward to BKK in April for 2 weeks! Europe in about 2 weeks from now, but only 10 days... just about all of it 'business' so very little time for pleasure this time.

Carol

indianapearl

We've had several wonderful visits to "Barfalona," so I encourage others to visit. It's a lovely city with fabulous, food, architecture, design. And we only were barfed on once!

Dogster speaks of people in India dumping "poo" on his shoes, but he still goes back to India every change he gets. Stuff like that can happen anywhere.

pattyroth

Another vote for Dar Marjana in Marrakech! Lovely, lovely restaurant and well worth the trouble to find it! We loved it.

ekscrunchy

Hi Stu! I just noticed your question above.

There are several eateries inside the Boqueria market, with Pinotxo being one and Quim being the other. Pinotxo is simply the most famous, but I am not sure that his food is any better than that at any of the other places. Each of the ones I have tried offers excellent renditions of the classes Spanish bar items, supplemented by Catalan specialties. Here, as elsewhere, it think it is important to solicit the help of the staff to find what is best on that particular day.


The owners of both of these bar/restaurants are delightful men, with the bow-tied Juanito Bayen (Pinotxo), whose bar is at the right just after you enter the market from the Ramblas entry portal, being the most famous. When we were there, a contingent of famous-name Basque chefs were paying their respects to him. I was happy to see that he is still in fine form, despite his advancing years. (I cannot say the same for Pep, at Cal Pep, unfortunately, but that is another story..)

We also spent quite a lot of time with Quim, at his stand towards the left center of the market. A delightful person, he gave us a recipe for his terrific artichokes cooked in the oven.

Getting back to one of the themes of the discussion: While I am very truly sorry for the victims of these unfortunate incidents, I think it would be a great shame to cross Barcelona off your map on the basis of a couple of petty, but very annoying, incidents. I should also mention that I just returned from a week in the city and did not experience anything untoward.

Anyway, waiting for the next installment--hope that the trip progresses seamlessly from now on...the more one can blend in with the locals, if at all possible, the less chance that the bad elements will descend!

indianapearl

I second the kudos for Pinotxo and Cal Pep. We eat there every time we're in B. We always just wait our turn to sit at the bar, although I've been told there are four tables in the back of Cal Pap, but they must be reserved weeks in advance.

rhkkmk

finally have found free wi-fi at the library...

the poo is what it is and we have moved past that...

ESK-- i am surprised to see you talk of the rambla market and its restaurants.. i took it that the area was far toooo de classe??


Friday night

Restaurants open between 8 and 9 generally. So at 8:15 we headed up the block to El Caliu de L’Eixample, 329 Valencia. Escrunchy had suggested this to us as being in our neighborhood based on info from a friend. We had reviewed it on the internet before we left home and it seemed like a good try based on its being in our neighborhood and its menu. The restaurant was even closer than we had thought. We were the first to arrive and only one staff person was there at 8:15PM..

We selected what seemed like the premier choice of menus. It was a T-bone steak (1 lb) for two accompanied by a choice of 2 roasted artichokes or a large salad for a starter, plus limited veggies for you to cook with your steak.

The presentation was a single burner gas grill and a hot stone slab with the meat sizzling on it (cook to your own desired wellness) and the veggies surrounding it ( a few coins of zucchini, 3 small pieces of corn on the cob, 4-- ½ tomatoes, a few mushroom pieces. 4 choices for a simple dessert…. 44. E (total incl drinks 64E).

Back to the apartment after dinner and pack up a bit.


Saturday March 5


This is move on day. We had a 1:20 flt to Malaga on Spanair (discounter---well organized—careful looking at hand luggage, but we crept through). Easy 1.1 hour flt. In comfortable leather seated airbus (3X3). Check-in and advance seat selection 36 hours in advance on-line. 69E for the two of us.


Lovely new airport at Malaga, much bigger than we had anticipated. I’m guessing the EEC is largely responsible for both this airport and for the fantastic one in Barcelona. Both are spotless with smart marble like flooring (black areas, red areas, grey areas). These put all USA airports to shame for sure---think Bangkok plus.

Through Car Trawler I had reserved a Ford focus sized car for a week with Record Go. We waited a long time in line. We did most of the paperwork and then hit a snag having to due with refueling. I took a “Kimball” as the gpandas describe it, and walked away from this rental in a full blown rage, moving on next door to National, where we rented a nicer car for more $$ but with no hastle and no scare tactics about damage, flat tires, insurance, broken windshields.

The first car was brand new…. Problem—something was hanging down from the bottom and there was a huge puddle of oil on the floor. Quickly we changed to an even better car and we were on our way…. Citreon C-4. First use of our new GPS with European maps. It worked perfectly and in a short while we were winding down the local roads into Benal Madena Costa and the ocean front where the thus unseen timeshare we own is located.

Check-in was quick and we were escorted to our unit on the 4th floor with a nice view of the ocean front from our large balcony. Property name: Royal Oasis Club at Benal Beach. The club dates back to the 80’s, but our unit has been updated and is very nice. It sleeps 6. The kitchen is well equipped and there is a dishwasher and a small washer, plus stove/oven, microwave, toaster and apartment sized fridge/freezer. Perfect.

After settling in we rode round the town a bit to acquaint ourselves. We went to the supermarket and purchased supplies for the week. We saw an Indian restaurant which we thought we might return to for dinner (you have heard of dumbed down, well this started dumb to begin with—no taste). I don’t know what I hit here changing the format.???


Sunday March 6, 2011

Good nite’s sleep and a lazy morning. W are invited to a sangria reception at 11:30 which we hope is not a timeshare presentation. We have bought some sandwich makings for lunch after that, and will then go for a drive along the coast. We have done 3 loads of wash this AM which catches us up to date with that as well.

Today was to have been sunny, but it is grey instead and about 60+.

After the useless session of non-info we returned to the apartment and ate lunch (ham, salami and cheese sandwiches on delicious fresh bread.

The day got more sunny so we decided to drive down the coast to Marbella. For much of the drive the wild ocean (huge waves because it is very windy) was immediately to our left. We took a combo of local roads and and a 4 lane highway.. We went through many small towns until we reached Marbella in perhaps an hour and ½. Marbella is decidedly more upscale. It has mostly mid-rise apartment blocks right to the sea, many of which are gated. We wound our way around the narrow streets and got a feel for the place. We did see a number of large private villas spotted here and there, and a few boat marinas, but failed to see the marina where the huge yachts are kept. Most everything was closed as it is Sunday. K noted some very nice shops.

We stopped at a local bakery/bar which was open and purchased a pastry for our evening’s dessert.

On the way home we took the highway all the way to the Benalmadena Costa exit. There are two exits and we took the one we had not used coming from the other direction. Almost immediately after leaving the highway we came upon a new huge white and gold stupa built into the hillside overlooking the town and ocean below. Attached to it is a small wat----a bit of Thailand in Spain. Needless to say it is very dramatic.

I should explain that like other areas along the Med, this area has a corniche where the highway runs along, high above the ocean front, and that between it and the ocean, towns are built into the steep hillsides. Thus from the time you leave the highway it can take 10-15 minutes driving to reach sea level. Throughout these areas there are some private housing, but more there are huge complexes of residential buildings. Many are painted lovely shades of ochre, yellow, beige, and of course bright white, often accented with other colors. Some have Moorish accents and designs, and some are just simply what I would describe as Med styling. The density works well, but is not our style.

We returned “home” and found a good parking space (most are tight and awkward, within our complex. I don’t think I have described our complex. It is older (1980’s), cream in color and consists of three huge (10 story) step like buildings in a “U” shape separated from the ocean by a local road. The steps create a unique look to the place and all have balconies of differing sizes and irregular shapes—ours is sort of a wave shape and very long and varies in width. In one direction we look directly at the ocean, in the opposite direction we can see the hills and mountain peaks but mostly we look out at other parts of the buildings. Many of the balconies have stripped cream and dark brown awings. Many of the larger apartments appear to be permanent residents based on the stuff we can see on balconies. We are on the 4th floor. The complex is best described as in transition. The internal corridors are bleak and a bit dark and huge. The lobby has fountains and a water fall, lite with white and colored lights. Again a bit of the 1980’s attempt of glamour. In the U of the garden are a series of connecting decorative pools, maybe 15 in number, each with a fountain in it. This area needs lots of work and tree reforestation. At the rear of the complex is a series of swimming pools (the largest in Europe??) with two waterslides. These overlook the huge municipal park with a bird pond built into the hillside.

Our apartment is however bright and updated and comfortable. The complex as a whole is in better shape, and certainly better located, than we had anticipated.

Sorry to be so long winded about this.

Karen made a simple baked chicken, veggie and left over Indian rice dinner which we enjoyed with some sparkling dry white wine.

We had borrowed two DVD’s from the complex library and watched one after dinner. As dinners are taken so late here—always after 8PM and more often after 9-- we have decided that dinner will mostly be eaten in the apartment.

Early to bed again—10:45.



Monday March 8, 2011



Up late again and had a simple cereal breakfast. Our goal for the day was a trip to Ronda which is located in the mountains about 48 kilometers north and up from Marbella.

The drive is an easy one if you do not mind mountain roads. The roadbed and grading are perfect for easy driving The vistas are varied and often dramatic with huge drops feet from the side of the road. The rocks vary in color from white to a steely color. There are huge roundish pine trees growing out of the rocks in some areas. Between M and Ronda there is practically no habitation and strangely very few animals---some goats in some places. We did see a couple of small waterfalls. A lot of the area is very arid.


Ronda is a medium sized town built into a cliff and on a plateau. It is a very old town with the oldest purpose built bull ring in Spain, dating to the 18th C.

We parked in a small garage under the main square (hard to find—follow the signs). The elevator takes you right into the small colorful square with it restaurants, bars and shops.

It was lunch time so we wandered down one of the narrow alleys off of the square and selected the Hnos. Macias on Pedro Romero, 3 for our meal. This is a charming place containing a beautifully decorated dining room. We selected the house menu: salad plate, cheese and dried ham plate, blood pudding plate, egg and potato plate---all of which was a starter…. We both selected a pork dish for our main course (me a pork steak and K had pork cutlets) which were accompanied by a cooked veggie garnish and white pots. We both chose home-made Flan for our dessert (custard with burnt sugar). 20 E each. English is very limited here, so K’s Spanish served us well.


After lunch we walked around the town a bit, soaking up some of its history. We went to the bull ring, but did not go in. Walked into the cliff side park and K walked to a further vantage point to view the ancient stone bridge, which we would later drive across. I decided that I had figured out a different vantage point for the bridge from across the deep valley. So we retrieved the car and wended our way through the older part of town and found a sign eventually sending us down a pot-holed dirt road to a vantage point high above the valley opposite from the town where my telephoto lens allowed for a decent picture.


Ask K about my au natural stomach problem which I experienced while down this deserted, thank goodness, road. TMI!!


We headed back across the mountains again to Marabella where we found the A-7 highway back to Benal Madena Costa. We made a stop at the Carrefour grocery store at the top of town for some supplies, including two pizzas for dinner. Pizza and salad were perfect after such a big lunch.

We also stopped at the stupa but it was closed on Mondays, as was another site, a sort of castle in a gothic theme celebrating maritime adventures…. We will check them out later in the week.

Another movie and another long night’s sleep.




Tuesday March 8, 2011


The goal today is to find free Wi-fi which we understand we can find at the library and at McDonalds just up the road. We need to reconnect with the world (we do have BBC on the tv) and transmit this to Fodors. We also need to figure out is we will go to Morocco on Saturday as well. I think we are fine with that.

We want to also visit the upper town between us and the highway and perhaps have lunch there. We came across it yesterday. It is newer but quaint in its own way.

ekscrunchy

Bob: Would you mind sharing your impressions of the restaurant that my local friend recommended? From your lack of comment, I think that it did not appeal, but I would like to know for certain. (since you did not want to eat seafood or fish, I had asked him for a meat-centered restaurant near your apartment that was moderate in price.) I will not take offense, as I've not been there and have no connection to the place but would like to pass on your comments!

In response to your comment that I think the Ramblas are "too de classee," (I am taking a leap here and assuming that you mean seedy) you need to separate the Ramblas from La Boqueria, which is among the most celebrated markets in Spain.

The scene inside the market is a world apart from the street outside. There are several spots inside La Boqueria that offer good food at prices that have become quite high due to the tourist influx. I believe I pointed out above that there are markets in every district of the city, and each of these have market bars serving food and drinks but without the tourist crowds that can often be found at the eateries in the Boqueria. Within a ten minute or so walk of the Boqueria, one can find the incredible Santa Caterina market in Born, and the Sant Antoni market., which is now housed in temporary space in Sant Antoni.

While I do not spend time on the Ramblas, and in fact, usually detour to avoid walking there, the market (the actual name is Mercat de Sant Josep) is fabulous, and for those interested in local food, and willing to either eat early or wait for a seat, I would recommend both Quim and Pinotxo with a caveat that prices have risen in recent years. I certainly would recommend either of these, or another market bar/restaurant, to a visitor interested in sampling local food.

Hope you continue to enjoy....perhaps you might even try some local seafood while you are on the coast. I can assure you that New England has nothing like it! If you have to stick to meat, you should certainly sample jamon Iberico. You will find this on offer at restaruatns and tapas bars, but it will be more economical to buy a few slices at a local market; ask for "jamon Iberico de bellota." You need only a few slices and vendors will be happy to sell you even one slice. Eat it plain, or on bread if you must, but without condiment or cheese.

Have fun!

DonTopaz

Help me, Ronda.

hawaiiantraveler

Rizz, that was his mantra amongst the rocks on that deserted road outside of Ronda. <i>Help me Ronda help me get it out of my....... </i>

Aloha!

indianapearl

If you want to eat a sit-down meal without waiting until midnight, try the "menu del dia." Many restaurants serve them - a prix fixe sort of deal - appetizer, entree, postre, and a carafe of wine for one price. Go back to your apt. for a siesta, then do tapas in the evening. If you want to eat at a really highly rated restaurant, then go at about 8:00 p.m. and beg them to let you in. My husband calls this "the hour of the Americans." The Spaniards think we're nuts. And they might be right!

SueHuml

That's tooo funny!!! Though I can imagine that when taken short like that on a rocky road, it's not a laughing matter at the time.
Glad to see those Asia Board types are chiming in with the usual remarks. I expect the car rental people are still making comments about the American Kimball outburst! and I suppose your Ronda visit counts as your second poo attack this trip!!!
Sue

Elizabeth_S

Eks....recipe pls!! I still dream of Quim artichokes! Particularly the sliced deep fried ones!

ekscrunchy

ElizabethS: Your blog was a big help to me when planning the meals so thank you again! The fried artichokes are fried twice: Once before they are set out in the morning and then again once the order is placed. He also gave me his recipe for the roasted artichokes in the oven which is simplicity itself. I will put it in the short report that I will begin in a few days, once things settle down here....

BTW:
You, and other food enthusiasts here (I am not talking about the OP, whose penchant for eating Indian food in Spain, and his refusal to sample local seafood, disqualifies him from this category..sorry Bob, but facts are facts! ) need to think about Valencia. Would you believe me if I told you that Valencia's Central Market rivals the fabulousness of the Boqueria but on a MUCh larger scale??

tengohambre

You will, at some point, order a gazpacho somewhere, I hope. Likewise, a nice plate of gambas al ajillo. If not, pls send me a tkt and I will fly over and do the ordering.

We want more info on the car rental fiasco. I once had a similar experience in the Caribe and, after the blow up the agent said, "you can walk away but we are still charging you for the car." Suffice it to say that never happened.

If you continue to drive west you will hit Marbella, Puerto Banus, etc. A bit more of the same but some pretty spots along the coast and without traffic it is a nice day trip. Particularly in the off season. Diviertanse. Have fun.

Jbetson

Good day everyone, My wife is heading to Morrocco in 2 weeks with a group called the Hardy Plant society, any concerns? Also we are heading top Barcelona end of May for her 50th birthday any recomendations food wise, etc. I love doing the local stops to enjoy local food, I'm there so I'd love to eat like the locals. Any info you all may have for either Barcellona in May or my wife being in Morocco in 2 weeks. Thanks John

ekscrunchy

John: I will be happy to offer you suggestions for eating in Barcelona (I returned a few days ago) but you should ask this again in a new thread that you begin yourself. I promise to overwhelm you with ideas!

rhkkmk

We want to also visit the upper town between us and the highway and perhaps have lunch there. We came across it yesterday. It is newer but quaint in its own way.

So after finding that the library is open from 9-9, we headed to the upper town or pueblo. This is a far nicer area than down by the sea. It is quaint, all white washed buildings, with tons of character and narrow walkways and streets. Many houses are decorated with a profusion of green and flowering plants. There are lots of nice quality restaurants and a few shops. This is a place we were to learn later that had a large ex-pat population a few years ago but as the economy has changed those people have returned home, mostly to the UK, and the Spanish have repurchased these lovely properties.

Parking is a bit scarce, but there are a few parking lots. We found a rare spot near the top of the village just where we wanted to be. We walked around for a while and finally settled on a small café with both inside and outside seating. It was grey still but we sat outside. There is a lovely fountain in this small square of a girl dancer with a small water spout to add to the charm of the square. The waitress was a charming scot who told us lots about the village. The standard lunch was a 3 plate tapas with bread and either a small glass of beer, wine or soft drink for 7.5 E. K has tiny clams cooked in a wine cream sauce, pots with a spicy red sauce and Indian curry chicken. I had grilled chicken with a curry flavor on a stick with a spoonful of rice, warm whole pitted dates wrapped in a small piece of Spanish ham and sautéed warm mushrooms in an oil chili sauce. Each was accompanied by 3 slices of a baguette

For dessert (extra) we both selected a round whipped cheesecake with a thick graham cracker type crust. Mine was pear and walnut and K’s was apricot. These were amongst the best desserts we have had in a long time. By whipping the cheeses they were light rather than heavy. Restaurant name: la Caixa.

The waitress shared a few good restaurants with us for future meals… One, the Pearl (La Perla) we will try this evening---it is her favorite. She also told us that there is not a decent restaurant down near the sea…

After lunch we walked around a bit more, visited a recently reopened training school hotel. I don’t have the name here but will add in a day or two. The interiors of the hotel are lovely with white pillars. The dining room luncheon (31E) looks elegant and the room is beautiful. We walked on a bit more, checked out the pearl (dinner only) and drove down to the sea a totally different way passing fields, private homes, sites for big complexes which never made it and constant sightings of the ocean. Name of hotel is La Fonda..

We arrived back at the apartment just in time for cocktails and cheese and peanuts. K prepared a shrimp pasta meal (sauce from a bottle) which she served with bread and salad. For dessert we had readi-made flan (not very good).

We watched another DVD after dinner.



Wednesday March 9, 2011



K made scrambled eggs and toast with jam for breakfast… It hit the spot… BTW, I do all the clean-up. I did a load of wash.

It was raining and has remained so all day. We hung out, watched tv—american game shows, judge judy (boy is she tough) and finally question hour or what ever it is called when the British PM is questioned by MP’s… No teleprompters here!!!

The maid came and cleaned a bit (every other day at this complex).




We had left over pizza and sandwiches for lunch. Later we headed back to the library for some internet. K has a new kindle and is loving reading a book on it while I do internet.

I was unable to connect to the internet. I spent an hour trying to “fix” it but alas it is very ill.

We made a stop at the local grocery shop and returned home to drink a bottle of lovely sparkling rose.

At 7:15 we headed back up to the pueblo to La Perla for dinner. We were the first to arrive. The restaurant is lovely… the menu diverse and the staff friendly.
We were given an house hors d’. K chose fingers of cod which came stacked with interesting plating. I chose pork medallions with a mushroom/pate/truffle sauce. A small amount of creamed whipped pots and a large flat mushroom were on my plate as well. Both were supplemented with fresh large juliennes of beans, carrots, broccoli and asparagus.

For dessert I chose the “child’s cake”, a chocolate molten cake with a huge square of bitter chocolate and some ice cream, plus raspberry and apricot reduction decoration. 15 min. prep required. K had a nougat and ice cream dish with interesting and attractive plating 52.50 E. 2 bottles of water—no wine.

This was the best meal we have had thus far. I rate the restaurant 4.5*.

The winding rain soaked road drive back to sea level was no fun for the driver, but made worthwhile based on such a delicious dinner.

Tomorrow we hope to go higher into the hills to visit another small town.


A few general comments. We find this area to be aging less than gracefully. Unlike, Barcelona there is a fair amount of trash around on some streets.

Everyplace we have visited in Spain thus far has tons of graffiti. Even lux neighborhoods are not exempt. Such a shame, especially in lovely cities like B….

Another turnoff for me is the unfriendliness of the people on the street. People will look you in the eye and not smile or acknowledge you. Often they look away. We find that with the English here too. Some will exchange an “ola” with you but many will not. K feels it is a left over from Franco times. They also never make way or give way on sidewalks. They will often stand there and not move for you—very odd. They make the French seem hospitable.

Please remember these are simply OUR observations. People that you meet however could not be nicer.


The unthinkable---we had lunch at burger king today… It is raining yet again… we road up in the hills to check out the small town Mijas. We never got out of the car.. we will return tomorrow if it is not raining…. Must be beautiful views from up there but fog kept us from seeing..


GPANDA update… K had a discouraging e mail from beth today dated Tuesday… Andy had his normal scan and it showed substantial regrowth of the tumor.

She says his cognitive skills have deteriorated significantly and that “he is not himself”… We are distressed to hear this..