Rhine/Mosel and Black Forest or Nurnberg

Jul 13th, 2007, 01:35 PM
  #1  
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Rhine/Mosel and Black Forest or Nurnberg

My wife and I are traveling to Germany for 12-13 days, starting around Sep. 14. Flying into Frankfurt, and spending a week in the Rhine/Mosel area, tentatively staying in Bacharach, Cochem and Trier. Any suggestions for hotels in those towns, or alternate towns/hotels?

Then we have about another 6 days to go elsewhere. We're on the fence between the Black Forest, or going west toward Heidelberg, Bamberg, Nurnberg, and Rothenburg. I'm leaning toward the Nurnberg direction, but I'd like to hear any opinions about good itineraries for BF. Thanks!
smetz is offline  
Jul 13th, 2007, 10:28 PM
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What is your method of transportation? Car? Train? Donkey cart? (Just kidding about the donkey cart) It makes a difference in how we'll answer.

Rather that stay in 3 different locations in the Rhein/Mosel, choose only one and do day trips from there. Cochem is probably more central, given Trier and Bacharach as extremes of your area of interest. Bacharach is about 40 minutes from Koblenz where the Rhein meets the Mosel bu a very nice, quiet place to stay.

You said you wanted to head west toward Heidelberg, Bamberg, Nurnberg, but those are all east of your arrival point or the Rhein/Mosel. I'd recommend Munich for the duration of your stay, doing day -trips to Nurnberg, Bamberg, or anything else you might find interesting in Bavaria. Even Salzburg is within reach.

MvK
MarkvonKramer is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 12:56 AM
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We stayed in Bacharach and in Cocchem, in very nice and not expensive pensions: pension Alberts in cochem and pension Lettie in Bacharach. if you are interested, I can find their email addresses. Both are located very central (in Cochem on main pedestrian and commercial street). We had not car, but we travelled by train and it was very easy.
We visited Trier and luxembourg as a day trip from Cochem.
valtor is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 01:45 AM
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I can recommend the following hotels in the Mosel:

Trier - Hotel Roemischer Kaiser
Beilstein (a bit south of Cochem) - Hotel Haus Lipmann

Beilstein is a tiny village - great for a quiet night, and a nice contrast to the more lively Trier.

I would choose your "westward" itinerary over the Black Forest. I am living in Stuttgart but have never been that enamoured with the Black Forest. I find all the clearcuts a bit depressing and the towns not that charming. I love some of the lesser-known stops on the Romantic Road route, like Landsberg-am-Lech.

hausfrau is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 03:41 AM
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Yes, I'm sorry, I meant east. We're planning on traveling by car, which could become a problem if I continue mixing up east and west.

MarkvonKramer: Would a train from Cochem go direct to Bacharach, or would it follow the Mosel up to Koblenz, and then down the Rhein? (You see, I do know directions!) Also I like your idea about Munich, but I've been there twice and my wife once - also, are the hotels really expensive during Oktoberfest? Thanks!
smetz is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 04:01 AM
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Smetz,
We just returned from a trip that included flying into Frankfurt and staying in Beilstein on the Mosel River. We chose the Hotel Haus Lipmann based on recommendations on this forum. We were not disappointed! It was so comfortable for our first night. Extremely quiet, too. The hosts were very attentive to our needs, the beds comfortable, the house very quaint. We had a river view which we enjoyed. They are cash only. We did not eat in their restaurant for dinner, but it looked really good. Breakfast was quite nice, too. We toured Burg Eltz on the day we arrived, also drove through Cochem. The weather was raining off and on so we opted to skip the boat ride from Beilstein to Cochem and stayed dry in the car. The drive from Frankfurt to Beilstein took about 1.5 hours (in the rain).

We did not make it to the Rhine Valley because we only had one night to devote to this area. Maybe next time! It was sunny the day we left and so beautiful. I am sure you'll enjoy your trip.
odyssey4 is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 04:30 AM
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smetz,

You will need to transfer in Koblenz to or from the Mosel if going by train. If you're "training" it, Cochem would probably work best for your centralized location. Koblenz to Bacharach is around 40 minutes but there are other stops that would make very nice visits, St. Goar, Boppard, Oberwesel, etc. Not much south of Bacharach though.

Cochem to Koblenz is either 39 minutes (RE) or 55 minutes (RB). Trier is another 49-55 minutes again dictated by the RE-RB trains.

I don't know how many are in your party but the RP-Lander ticket would work nicely for these day trips. Larryincolorado has details galore, expect his replies in this thread at some time, or search for his name. His help here was of immense help to me when I visited this area at the end of May. You can check my trip report at http://www.bensbauernhof.com/mcharlton2007.html for more info and such. We spent a night in Nurnberg but havd been there before so we were able to breeze through and hit the major stuff of interest to us in the limited time available. I've only been to Munich to fly from or change trains so I can't answer about hotels there but I'd worry about availability at Oktoberfest time. Maybe Mittenwald, Garmisch, or Berchtesgaden would do nicely for the left-over days. I agree with hausfrau and dropping the Black Forest. Go to Bavaria and enjoy.

MvK
MarkvonKramer is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 05:14 AM
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JN
 
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If you'll be in the Rhein/Mosel area the 15th, consider driving to St. Goar for the Rhein in Flames fireworks display on the night of Sept 15. We plan to go based on the strong recommendations of Fodorites. Parking might be a problem for you. You may have to go to, say, Boppard, and train south to S. G.
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Jul 14th, 2007, 01:56 PM
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topping for OP because sometimes it is really difficult to get answers and opinions on travel within Germany.

Maybe just a weekend thing. Sorry, just a little out of sorts this evening.

MvK
MarkvonKramer is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 06:23 PM
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In 2005, we arrived in Frankfurt and spent 3 nights in Beilstein at Haus Lipmann, doing day trips to Cochem and Burg Eltz. We had rain most of those 3 days, so it did cut into our activities somewhat. We were also hampered a little by jet lag.

The following year we again arrived in Frankfurt and spent 3 nights in Bacharach at the Rhein Hotel. From there we did day trips to St. Goar and Boppard. We spent a lot of time wandering around Bacharach. It is quite charming and there was a festival in town which made for some great photos.

On both trips, we intended to visit Trier but never seem to find the time. In September, we plan to fly into Frankfurt and drive to Bernkastel-Kues on the Mosel for our first 3 nights. Hopefully, this trip we will make it to Trier and maybe into Luxembourg.

From the lovely little town of Bad Wimpfen on the River Neckar, you can do day trips to Heidelberg (1+ hour round trip), Speyer (90 minutes round trip) Schwabisch Hall and Dinkelsbuehl (1+ hr each way) or even Rothenberg (1+ hr each way).

For me, I think it would make for a very long day to try to do a day trip from Munich to Bamberg (over 2 hours each way) or even to Nurnberg (over 3 hours round trip). But Nurnberg is about the same distance from Bad Wimpfen as it is from Munich. Much depends on if you want to stay in a large city or a small, charming town.

www.badwimpfen.de
bettyk is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 06:59 PM
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Betty, they have a new ICE running from Munich to Nurnberg, 1:03 now, no stops. A thing of beauty for those in a hurry.

MvK
MarkvonKramer is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 07:04 PM
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MvK, I thought the OP was traveling by car. However, if by train, then, yes, I could see how much easier it would be to go from Munich to Nurnberg.

Also, the OP stated that he'd already been to Munich twice and was concerned about higher hotel costs during Octoberfest. I was just trying to offer an alternative.
bettyk is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 07:54 PM
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Ahhhhh! Right you are Betty! Guess I need to visit the optometrist or take a reading comprehension course

Your trip is quickly approaching. Have a great time, take lots of pictures, post on webshots, and give us the link when you return. Hope you have GREAT weather!

MvK
MarkvonKramer is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 08:39 PM
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Thanks, MvK. We've been pretty lucky in the weather department the last few years, but then we usually travel in May. It will be interesting to see how the weather in September compares.
bettyk is offline  
Jul 14th, 2007, 10:42 PM
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Your idea to go east is a good one.
That area is a nice introduction to Germany. My husband and I planned a trip very similar to yours for March of 2006. We started out with a lot of plans and then threw them out the window, found little towns that we hadn't planned on and had a great trip.

Because I'm terrified of not having a plan, the same thing happened during out trip through the Black Forest last Oct and loved it.
We’ll be in Germany again this Sept for a trip down the Mosel and surrounding areas Of course I have an itinerary …

Stuttgart has become my favorite city because of the Mercedes-Benz museum and the Staatsgalerie.

Hausfrau, I see what you mean, I live in San Diego and always wonder why people love to come here. When I come to your area, I only see lush forests b/c I don't know what they used to be.

L84SKY is offline  
Jul 15th, 2007, 01:47 AM
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I agree with Hausfrau, unfortunately. We stayed in Gengenbach in the BF which we truly enjoyed. Lovely town. But we decided to do the BF Hohenstrasse because we had read about how beautiful it was. Well, the trees close to the road in many places had been cut down leaving ugly stumps. We came away very disappointed. Except for our stop at Mummelsee, we felt it wasn't worth the time.
bettyk is offline  
Jul 15th, 2007, 02:38 AM
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We have spent time in both The Black Forest and in Nurnberg. From my perspective the Black Forest was just OK--rather dull, not much to see and do. Nurnberg on the other had has interesting sights, good restaurants and a pleasant atmosphere.
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Jul 15th, 2007, 02:48 AM
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Personally, I would go east. I found the Black forest to be a bit dull, as others have said.
One thought. There is an old castle just east of Rothenburg in the town of Colmburg, which is not a lovely hotel and restaurant. You could base yourself there, and being right close to the autobahn, and just minutes from Rothenburg, you could take day trips to Nurmburg, Wuerzburg, the Romantic Road, Ansbach, Dinkelsbuhl.
Wuerzburg is a nice city to see, and maybe as your last stop before flying out. You can even catch a train from there that takes you right into the Frankfurt airport terminal.

The food at that Burg Colmburg is quite good, and I've seen photos of the rooms, and heard good reports.
If going to Rothenburg, try to stay in town into the evening, and see the Night Watchman's tour.
EK
ekellyga is offline  
Jul 15th, 2007, 03:50 AM
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I agree with the go east strategy. I also recommend adding Wurzburg to your list of places to go. the Main valley in either direction is also interesting to explore. This is another wine producing area

another area that is very popular with German tourists but not much visited by others is the Altmuhltal south of Nurnberg. Eichstatt is the largest town and has a cathedral, a castle and a beautiful Baroque town center (had to be rebuilt after being virtually destroyed in the early 1600's) It is in the middle of Germany's largest "naturpark" with lots of hiking and biking.

Regensburg is another beautiful small city on the Danube if you want to go that far east. I am assuming you eventually want to loop back to Frankfurt.

I am assuming you are eventually
Vttraveler is online now  
Jul 15th, 2007, 04:44 AM
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Rhein Hotel in Bacharach and Hotel Lohspeicher in Cochem. We were there recently and enjoyed both. Both have great restaurants too.
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