Revised flawless trip report: Croatia
Mar 8th, 2007 | 09:43 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Revised flawless trip report: Croatia
16 Day Itinerary in Croatia - June/July 2006
Day 1: Newark-Frankfurt-Zagreb
Day 2: Zagreb...We arrived at the Zagreb Airport, took a taxi to the Hotel Dubrovnik, and gave the driver a 20% tip. He was astonished with our generosity, so from that point on, we stuck to a 10% tip for any service in Croatia. The Hotel Dubrovnik is ideally situated between the Upper and Lower Towns. We were given a clean, comfortable "room with a view" in the older section of the hotel, which we had requested months prior to our arrival. Zagreb's main square was right outside our window and the Cathedral of Saint Stephen (now of the Assumption) was in the distance. We picked up a "City Walks"/City Map Guide, which was ideal, and immediately began to acquaint ourselves with the Capitol City. Dinner that night was a short walk away from the hotel, at Vinodol, set in an outdoor barrel-vaulted court yard; a wonderful traditional Croatian meal for our first night.
Day 3 Zagreb...Today was a whirlwind tour of the City. The Museum Mamara and Strossmayer Gallery, although sounded quite fabulous in our guide books, were both a bit disappointing. Both had average collections, no air conditioning, and limited lighting. On the other hand, the sights unique to Zagreb were immensely enjoyed; the City Museum, Ivan Mestrovic's Studio, and the most memorable sight, Mirogoj Cemetary. To get to the Cemetary, pick up bus #106 at the stop just past the Cathedral. Plan on spending a couple of hours there, admiring the artistic and sculptural tombs, all in a park-like setting behind a fortress-like facade; don't miss it! Throughout the day our snack stops were: Pizzicato for pizza, Vincek for ice cream (the Croatians eat it night and day!), and K&K for coffee. Our 2 days in Zagreb were plenty.
Day 4: Rovinj...We flew to Pula on the Istrian Peninsula, and picked up our car rental. We had reserved a compact automatic (a Yugo perhaps? just kidding) through Auto Europe, but when we got to the desk, we found out that they didn't have our car, so they upgraded us to a Volvo XC-90 for the same price! Actually, being a diesel, it wasn't too bad on gas, and we did a lot of driving! The ride to Rovinj was easy (driving was amazingly easy and safe throughout most of Croatia, and we never got lost, so don't let any dated guidebooks tell you otherwise). We stayed in the old part of town at the Adriatic Hotel, right on the harbor. Parking was a bit problematic, a 15 minute walk away, but you get to marvel at the town magestically rising to meet Saint Euphemia Cathedral at the top, as you walk towards it. The Adriatic Hotel was yet another wonderful choice. The hotel does not have an elevator, and the hallways are strangely decorated with bizarre art work, but we were rewarded with a room on the top floor, overlooking the harbor, and a surprise peek-a-boo view of the Cathedral from a back window. That afternoon we climbed the bell tower of the Cathedral, and glad that we did (travel hint: climb anything in Croatia; the views are almost always wonderful). We then had a nice traditional dinner at Veli Joze.
Day 5: Rovinj...Today, after a nice breakfast outside (by the way, all our hotels included a full and good breakfast, and was served outdoors), we embarked on a fortified towns tour. First stop an hour away: Motovun. The town is perched up high on a hill, surrounded by acres of grapevines, a place that time forgot. Make sure you take a walk on the fortifications. Stop 2: Groznjan. A gravel road leads up to this enchanting village full of small art galleries and the sounds of classical instruments being played in the background. Stops 3 and 4: Hum and Roc. Both were not worth the time and distance; they were...ho-Hum. On our return, we were hungry for a beach, so we went in search of Monsena Beach, outside of Rovinj. We followed the signs, but it was a bit difficult to find. In order to get there, one must pass the Amarin camping ground, around a rotary, through a parking lot, down a gravel road, and through a field of reeds. phew! Monsena is a "naturist" beach, and let's just say some of the activities we witnessed there were quite shocking.
Day 6: Rovinj...We took an AM boat ride to Red Island, hid our eyes from a monstrous hotel of concrete as we walked by it, walked over a small causeway, and found our own private...rock. Croatia has very few sandy beaches, so don't expect anything to even remotely resemble a Greek beach. Its coastline is jagged, and rocky, has clear turquoise water, and is very dramatic. I highly recommend bringing a pair of rubber shoes with you. On our way back, we stopped in Porec, and had one of our best, yet expensive meals at Ulixes. The restaurant is through an archway, down a small alley, into a landscaped courtyard. We ate al fresco, while gawkers stopped, looked in, and snapped photos. Our last stop in Porec was the Euphrasian Basilica; a must see!
Day 7: Overnight ferry/Rijeka-Split...We reluctantly departed Rovinj, and drove to Labin; another hill top town, quite charming, but a "work in progress". Don't bother with the tower and panoramic view here; buy a post card instead. We then continued driving along the east coast of the Peninsula, a drive not for the faint of heart. Along came Opatija, set in a romantic forest of green; a town we wish we could have spent some time in. And finally, the gritty city of Rijeka. We found the Jadrolinija office easily, queued our car, had lunch and walked onto the ferry. It was a bit dated, yet clean, and a friendly staff. Our cabin was on the small side, not very comfortable, but suitable. One word of warning: if you go out to the deck, don't wear white; you'll attract soot from the ships smokestacks.
Day 8: Trogir...In the end, the 12 hour overnight ferry to Split was a great idea. We disembarked, parked the car, and toured Diocletian's Palace; a highlight of our trip. Arriving in Split so early in the morning, allowed to tour the Palace almost on our own. Then, on to Trogir; a ride that took us through an industrial wasteland, to suddenly an overcrowded, touristy jewel of a town crammed unto a small island. We stayed at the Hotel Concordia, another good choice, with a very pleasant staff, and a room that gave us a view of Ciovo Island. A good lunch was had at Karmalengo Grill. Then, we got in our car and drove west to Sibinek, stopping off at Medena Beach. We were horrified by the Tito era hotel/resort that was there, so we high-tailed it out of there. Heading back, we stumbled upon the small resort town of Primosten, and highly recommend it as an alternative to Trogir. There is no traffic, it's very laid back, and has a wonderful walk around its perimeter, that's dotted with an occasional cafe, konoba, or swimming inlet. Later that evening in Trogir, we had a wonderful dinner at Fontana restaurant. By the way, Trogir is much more enjoyable in the evening when the throngs of day trippers leave, so plan day trips.
Day 9: Trogir...We took a 9am ferry from Split to Brac, got there at 10am, and drove to Bol to find Zlatni Rat Beach. Finally, a pebble beach, and Croatia's most photographed. It's truly a spectacular site, especially viewing its horn-shaped coastline through a grove of windswept fir trees. This beach is a mostly "textile" beach, so pack a swimsuit. Then, a hair raising drive to Milna, a small fishing village untouched by tourism, for our afternoon kava dupla. Finally, the ferry back to Split, and then ending our evening with a so-so dinner at Alka Restaurant in Trogir.
Day 10: Trogir...We visited the Trogir Cathedral and of course climbed the bell tower; worth the admission price. Time for another day trip, this time taking the secondary road, parallel to the highway leading towards Split. It was a pleasant alternative, allowing us to view a necklace of Kastelas along the coast line, Kastels Luksic and Gomilica being the most memorable. Passing Split, we were on our way to Makarska and its Riviera. Makarska is another town we would stay in the next time around; a wonderful beach (yes, beach!) resort town, suitable for families. We discovered Brela and Punta Rata Beach; shallow waters, a pebble beach, with a canopy of pine trees. Back to Trogir, and dinner at Fontana Restaurant for the second time.
Day 11: Hvar...We took a 10:30am ferry from Split to Stari Grad, (ah-oh, clouds!), and then drove to Hvar Town; beautiful harbor, giant yachts, and a cosmopolitan feel, even with all the Americans! It was difficult to find a hotel room here for 3 nights, since most, if not all of the hotels required a 7 night minimum. Many of the hotels never even responded to our Email, perhaps because they might have been closed for renovation. So, we ended booking a room in a private home through Adriatica.net. The house was located a short walk or drive uphill from town. Our room was clean, comfortable, inexpensive, no AC, and breakfast wasn't included. We also had a nice view of the Franciscan Monastery and Town Beach from our west facing balcony. We had a lousy lunch at Bounty, then worked it off by climbing up to the fort for an amazing view of the town and harbor below. That evening, under moonlight, we went to a concert in the Franciscan cloister. Of course, nothing was understood, but nevertheless, the emotionally charged pianist/vocalist Tereza Gabric gave us goosebumps.
Day 12: Hvar...Overcast again, and Hvar boasts on being the sunniest place in the Adriatic! Got a picnic together at the market and drove to Stari Grad and Jelsa, stopping along the way to take photos of the lavender fields. the sun finally came out, so off to Zavala Beach and rocks. dinner that night was at Paradise Green; it was average. Hvar is stunning at night, and might someday rival Mykonos, Santorini, or Ibiza. snack stops: Kogo for pizza, Bavaria for gelato.
Day 13: Hvar...Took a small boat to Jerolim, one of the Pakleni Islands. Spent the day sunning and swimming in the buff. That night, we had dinner at Macondo, a restaurant that had been mentioned in the NY Times travel section, NY Magazine, Conde Nast Traveler, and Gourmet. Well, it had a nice and intimate dining area, on a narrow cobblestoned street, and the food was good, but the place was slightly overrated.
Day 14: Dubrovnik...the grand finale! We raced to Sucuraj from Hvar Town to catch the ferry, which took us 1-1/2 hours to get there. We recommend giving yourself 2 hours and some sanity. The 1/2 hour ferry ride got us to the mainland, then a 2 hour ride down the coast to Dubrovnik. The first thing we did was ditch the car; you don't need one in Dubrovnik, especially when parking is limited and very expensive. Dubrovnik is gorgeous; no other word to describe it, and the sheer size of the walls took our breaths away. The only downside to this City, are the hordes of tourists coming off the cruise ships daily, so like in Trogir, we planned day trips and would come back and enjoy the City in the afternoon. We were fortunate enough to stay within the walls at the Hotel Stari Grad; expensive, but we had a beautifully appointed room, and a wonderful roof top area, where breakfast was served. It was worth every kuna. The Summer Music Festival had its opening ceremonies this night; a spectacular event, with medieval pageantry and pyrotechnics included.
Day 15: Dubrovnik...Got up early and walked the walls, before it got too crowded and hot. Later, took a short boat ride to Lokrum Island, a beautiful island retreat, with smooth rocks to lay on, and only 20 minutes from Dubrovnik. The "naturist" area even has a "naturist only" cafe! We returned and had an average dinner at Kamenice, and then went to listen to the Zagreb Philharmonic perform in Boskovic Square, with the facade of Saint Ignatius as a backdrop.
Day 16: Dubrovnik...Took the boat to Cavtat. On the way there, we noticed several bombed out shells of former hotels along the coast line; a reminder that not too long ago, there was a war raging on here. Then we came upon Cavtat, an idyllic place with a tropical feel to it. Here, we visited a sweet little gallery housing paintings by Vlaho Bukovac, then walked up a hill to see a mausoleum designed by Ivan Mestrovic. We came back down and scoped out a beach to relax on; it was rocky. Returned to Dubrovnik and had dinner at Taverna Galija; a limited menu, simple food, but a good choice.
Day 17: Dubrovnik...Went to the Franciscan and Domincan Monasteries (the cloisters alone are worth seeing), the 15th century Synagogue/Jewish Museum and the very interesting War Photos Limited Gallery. We then took a boat to Lopud Island, but it looked nothing like the glossy photos in guidebooks. It was a bit run down and littered, and it was a 1/2 hour long walk up and over a steep hill to get there. Although it was a sandy, and shallow beach, we suddenly missed the rocks, and deep waters of other beaches we had gone to; imagine that! Back in Dubrovnik, we had our last and best dinner in Croatia. A short walk outside Pile Gate, on the left side of the street, with a second floor dining porch, is Sesame; superb!
Day 18: Dubrovnik-Frankfurt-Newark...We left Dubrovnik in a taxi. The sun was rising, casting its light on the walls and terra cotta rooftops, creating a color palette we will never forget...
Day 1: Newark-Frankfurt-Zagreb
Day 2: Zagreb...We arrived at the Zagreb Airport, took a taxi to the Hotel Dubrovnik, and gave the driver a 20% tip. He was astonished with our generosity, so from that point on, we stuck to a 10% tip for any service in Croatia. The Hotel Dubrovnik is ideally situated between the Upper and Lower Towns. We were given a clean, comfortable "room with a view" in the older section of the hotel, which we had requested months prior to our arrival. Zagreb's main square was right outside our window and the Cathedral of Saint Stephen (now of the Assumption) was in the distance. We picked up a "City Walks"/City Map Guide, which was ideal, and immediately began to acquaint ourselves with the Capitol City. Dinner that night was a short walk away from the hotel, at Vinodol, set in an outdoor barrel-vaulted court yard; a wonderful traditional Croatian meal for our first night.
Day 3 Zagreb...Today was a whirlwind tour of the City. The Museum Mamara and Strossmayer Gallery, although sounded quite fabulous in our guide books, were both a bit disappointing. Both had average collections, no air conditioning, and limited lighting. On the other hand, the sights unique to Zagreb were immensely enjoyed; the City Museum, Ivan Mestrovic's Studio, and the most memorable sight, Mirogoj Cemetary. To get to the Cemetary, pick up bus #106 at the stop just past the Cathedral. Plan on spending a couple of hours there, admiring the artistic and sculptural tombs, all in a park-like setting behind a fortress-like facade; don't miss it! Throughout the day our snack stops were: Pizzicato for pizza, Vincek for ice cream (the Croatians eat it night and day!), and K&K for coffee. Our 2 days in Zagreb were plenty.
Day 4: Rovinj...We flew to Pula on the Istrian Peninsula, and picked up our car rental. We had reserved a compact automatic (a Yugo perhaps? just kidding) through Auto Europe, but when we got to the desk, we found out that they didn't have our car, so they upgraded us to a Volvo XC-90 for the same price! Actually, being a diesel, it wasn't too bad on gas, and we did a lot of driving! The ride to Rovinj was easy (driving was amazingly easy and safe throughout most of Croatia, and we never got lost, so don't let any dated guidebooks tell you otherwise). We stayed in the old part of town at the Adriatic Hotel, right on the harbor. Parking was a bit problematic, a 15 minute walk away, but you get to marvel at the town magestically rising to meet Saint Euphemia Cathedral at the top, as you walk towards it. The Adriatic Hotel was yet another wonderful choice. The hotel does not have an elevator, and the hallways are strangely decorated with bizarre art work, but we were rewarded with a room on the top floor, overlooking the harbor, and a surprise peek-a-boo view of the Cathedral from a back window. That afternoon we climbed the bell tower of the Cathedral, and glad that we did (travel hint: climb anything in Croatia; the views are almost always wonderful). We then had a nice traditional dinner at Veli Joze.
Day 5: Rovinj...Today, after a nice breakfast outside (by the way, all our hotels included a full and good breakfast, and was served outdoors), we embarked on a fortified towns tour. First stop an hour away: Motovun. The town is perched up high on a hill, surrounded by acres of grapevines, a place that time forgot. Make sure you take a walk on the fortifications. Stop 2: Groznjan. A gravel road leads up to this enchanting village full of small art galleries and the sounds of classical instruments being played in the background. Stops 3 and 4: Hum and Roc. Both were not worth the time and distance; they were...ho-Hum. On our return, we were hungry for a beach, so we went in search of Monsena Beach, outside of Rovinj. We followed the signs, but it was a bit difficult to find. In order to get there, one must pass the Amarin camping ground, around a rotary, through a parking lot, down a gravel road, and through a field of reeds. phew! Monsena is a "naturist" beach, and let's just say some of the activities we witnessed there were quite shocking.
Day 6: Rovinj...We took an AM boat ride to Red Island, hid our eyes from a monstrous hotel of concrete as we walked by it, walked over a small causeway, and found our own private...rock. Croatia has very few sandy beaches, so don't expect anything to even remotely resemble a Greek beach. Its coastline is jagged, and rocky, has clear turquoise water, and is very dramatic. I highly recommend bringing a pair of rubber shoes with you. On our way back, we stopped in Porec, and had one of our best, yet expensive meals at Ulixes. The restaurant is through an archway, down a small alley, into a landscaped courtyard. We ate al fresco, while gawkers stopped, looked in, and snapped photos. Our last stop in Porec was the Euphrasian Basilica; a must see!
Day 7: Overnight ferry/Rijeka-Split...We reluctantly departed Rovinj, and drove to Labin; another hill top town, quite charming, but a "work in progress". Don't bother with the tower and panoramic view here; buy a post card instead. We then continued driving along the east coast of the Peninsula, a drive not for the faint of heart. Along came Opatija, set in a romantic forest of green; a town we wish we could have spent some time in. And finally, the gritty city of Rijeka. We found the Jadrolinija office easily, queued our car, had lunch and walked onto the ferry. It was a bit dated, yet clean, and a friendly staff. Our cabin was on the small side, not very comfortable, but suitable. One word of warning: if you go out to the deck, don't wear white; you'll attract soot from the ships smokestacks.
Day 8: Trogir...In the end, the 12 hour overnight ferry to Split was a great idea. We disembarked, parked the car, and toured Diocletian's Palace; a highlight of our trip. Arriving in Split so early in the morning, allowed to tour the Palace almost on our own. Then, on to Trogir; a ride that took us through an industrial wasteland, to suddenly an overcrowded, touristy jewel of a town crammed unto a small island. We stayed at the Hotel Concordia, another good choice, with a very pleasant staff, and a room that gave us a view of Ciovo Island. A good lunch was had at Karmalengo Grill. Then, we got in our car and drove west to Sibinek, stopping off at Medena Beach. We were horrified by the Tito era hotel/resort that was there, so we high-tailed it out of there. Heading back, we stumbled upon the small resort town of Primosten, and highly recommend it as an alternative to Trogir. There is no traffic, it's very laid back, and has a wonderful walk around its perimeter, that's dotted with an occasional cafe, konoba, or swimming inlet. Later that evening in Trogir, we had a wonderful dinner at Fontana restaurant. By the way, Trogir is much more enjoyable in the evening when the throngs of day trippers leave, so plan day trips.
Day 9: Trogir...We took a 9am ferry from Split to Brac, got there at 10am, and drove to Bol to find Zlatni Rat Beach. Finally, a pebble beach, and Croatia's most photographed. It's truly a spectacular site, especially viewing its horn-shaped coastline through a grove of windswept fir trees. This beach is a mostly "textile" beach, so pack a swimsuit. Then, a hair raising drive to Milna, a small fishing village untouched by tourism, for our afternoon kava dupla. Finally, the ferry back to Split, and then ending our evening with a so-so dinner at Alka Restaurant in Trogir.
Day 10: Trogir...We visited the Trogir Cathedral and of course climbed the bell tower; worth the admission price. Time for another day trip, this time taking the secondary road, parallel to the highway leading towards Split. It was a pleasant alternative, allowing us to view a necklace of Kastelas along the coast line, Kastels Luksic and Gomilica being the most memorable. Passing Split, we were on our way to Makarska and its Riviera. Makarska is another town we would stay in the next time around; a wonderful beach (yes, beach!) resort town, suitable for families. We discovered Brela and Punta Rata Beach; shallow waters, a pebble beach, with a canopy of pine trees. Back to Trogir, and dinner at Fontana Restaurant for the second time.
Day 11: Hvar...We took a 10:30am ferry from Split to Stari Grad, (ah-oh, clouds!), and then drove to Hvar Town; beautiful harbor, giant yachts, and a cosmopolitan feel, even with all the Americans! It was difficult to find a hotel room here for 3 nights, since most, if not all of the hotels required a 7 night minimum. Many of the hotels never even responded to our Email, perhaps because they might have been closed for renovation. So, we ended booking a room in a private home through Adriatica.net. The house was located a short walk or drive uphill from town. Our room was clean, comfortable, inexpensive, no AC, and breakfast wasn't included. We also had a nice view of the Franciscan Monastery and Town Beach from our west facing balcony. We had a lousy lunch at Bounty, then worked it off by climbing up to the fort for an amazing view of the town and harbor below. That evening, under moonlight, we went to a concert in the Franciscan cloister. Of course, nothing was understood, but nevertheless, the emotionally charged pianist/vocalist Tereza Gabric gave us goosebumps.
Day 12: Hvar...Overcast again, and Hvar boasts on being the sunniest place in the Adriatic! Got a picnic together at the market and drove to Stari Grad and Jelsa, stopping along the way to take photos of the lavender fields. the sun finally came out, so off to Zavala Beach and rocks. dinner that night was at Paradise Green; it was average. Hvar is stunning at night, and might someday rival Mykonos, Santorini, or Ibiza. snack stops: Kogo for pizza, Bavaria for gelato.
Day 13: Hvar...Took a small boat to Jerolim, one of the Pakleni Islands. Spent the day sunning and swimming in the buff. That night, we had dinner at Macondo, a restaurant that had been mentioned in the NY Times travel section, NY Magazine, Conde Nast Traveler, and Gourmet. Well, it had a nice and intimate dining area, on a narrow cobblestoned street, and the food was good, but the place was slightly overrated.
Day 14: Dubrovnik...the grand finale! We raced to Sucuraj from Hvar Town to catch the ferry, which took us 1-1/2 hours to get there. We recommend giving yourself 2 hours and some sanity. The 1/2 hour ferry ride got us to the mainland, then a 2 hour ride down the coast to Dubrovnik. The first thing we did was ditch the car; you don't need one in Dubrovnik, especially when parking is limited and very expensive. Dubrovnik is gorgeous; no other word to describe it, and the sheer size of the walls took our breaths away. The only downside to this City, are the hordes of tourists coming off the cruise ships daily, so like in Trogir, we planned day trips and would come back and enjoy the City in the afternoon. We were fortunate enough to stay within the walls at the Hotel Stari Grad; expensive, but we had a beautifully appointed room, and a wonderful roof top area, where breakfast was served. It was worth every kuna. The Summer Music Festival had its opening ceremonies this night; a spectacular event, with medieval pageantry and pyrotechnics included.
Day 15: Dubrovnik...Got up early and walked the walls, before it got too crowded and hot. Later, took a short boat ride to Lokrum Island, a beautiful island retreat, with smooth rocks to lay on, and only 20 minutes from Dubrovnik. The "naturist" area even has a "naturist only" cafe! We returned and had an average dinner at Kamenice, and then went to listen to the Zagreb Philharmonic perform in Boskovic Square, with the facade of Saint Ignatius as a backdrop.
Day 16: Dubrovnik...Took the boat to Cavtat. On the way there, we noticed several bombed out shells of former hotels along the coast line; a reminder that not too long ago, there was a war raging on here. Then we came upon Cavtat, an idyllic place with a tropical feel to it. Here, we visited a sweet little gallery housing paintings by Vlaho Bukovac, then walked up a hill to see a mausoleum designed by Ivan Mestrovic. We came back down and scoped out a beach to relax on; it was rocky. Returned to Dubrovnik and had dinner at Taverna Galija; a limited menu, simple food, but a good choice.
Day 17: Dubrovnik...Went to the Franciscan and Domincan Monasteries (the cloisters alone are worth seeing), the 15th century Synagogue/Jewish Museum and the very interesting War Photos Limited Gallery. We then took a boat to Lopud Island, but it looked nothing like the glossy photos in guidebooks. It was a bit run down and littered, and it was a 1/2 hour long walk up and over a steep hill to get there. Although it was a sandy, and shallow beach, we suddenly missed the rocks, and deep waters of other beaches we had gone to; imagine that! Back in Dubrovnik, we had our last and best dinner in Croatia. A short walk outside Pile Gate, on the left side of the street, with a second floor dining porch, is Sesame; superb!
Day 18: Dubrovnik-Frankfurt-Newark...We left Dubrovnik in a taxi. The sun was rising, casting its light on the walls and terra cotta rooftops, creating a color palette we will never forget...
Mar 9th, 2007 | 12:06 PM
#2
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Thank you for the trip report. I'm planning a trip to Croatia in July. Certainly appreicate your sharing of information.
I noticed you did take your car on the ferry multiple times. Did you find it easy to do so? I have read somewhere that it may be hard to get a car on a ferry in the summer time. Did you make ferry reservation in advance? And if you did, how did you do so? We'll be going to Hvar and wonder how much hassles that may involve if we have a car with us.
I'm also having a hard time to find accommodation in Hvar, as what you said, for three nights. I am simply not getting any response to my emails at all. How do you like the place you stayed at Hvar? Is that something you will recommend? Thanks.
Winnie
I noticed you did take your car on the ferry multiple times. Did you find it easy to do so? I have read somewhere that it may be hard to get a car on a ferry in the summer time. Did you make ferry reservation in advance? And if you did, how did you do so? We'll be going to Hvar and wonder how much hassles that may involve if we have a car with us.
I'm also having a hard time to find accommodation in Hvar, as what you said, for three nights. I am simply not getting any response to my emails at all. How do you like the place you stayed at Hvar? Is that something you will recommend? Thanks.
Winnie
Mar 9th, 2007 | 06:44 PM
#3
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Dear Winnie,
We traveled in Croatia from June 27th to July 14, and it was very east to get our car on and off the ferry. There was never a hassle or even a long queue, especially with the shorter trips (perhaps because they were more frequent). The only trip we reserved and purchased in advance, was our 12 hour overnight trip from Rijeka to Split. Rather than a night in a hotel, we spent the night in a ship cabin. Atlas Travel Agency (www.atlas-croatia.com/) took care of these tickets for us. They were not able to reserve local line tickets, but reassured us that we wouldn't have any problems getting on a ferry from any of the ports. And indeed they were correct. The Jadrolinija offices were also very easy to find.
Regarding accommodations in Hvar, we were relatively happy with the room Adriatica.net placed us in, although there was no AC. The unit number was: EM-0124-1-S3. Our hostess Paulina was quite friendly, spoke Croatian, German, and some English, and was kind enough to meet us down in the main square in front of the tourist office, to take us to the house by car (parking space was included). The house was situated up on a hill, about a 15 minute walk from the harbor; a quiet neighborhood and a nice view.
Feel free to ask more questions.
Regards, Laz
We traveled in Croatia from June 27th to July 14, and it was very east to get our car on and off the ferry. There was never a hassle or even a long queue, especially with the shorter trips (perhaps because they were more frequent). The only trip we reserved and purchased in advance, was our 12 hour overnight trip from Rijeka to Split. Rather than a night in a hotel, we spent the night in a ship cabin. Atlas Travel Agency (www.atlas-croatia.com/) took care of these tickets for us. They were not able to reserve local line tickets, but reassured us that we wouldn't have any problems getting on a ferry from any of the ports. And indeed they were correct. The Jadrolinija offices were also very easy to find.
Regarding accommodations in Hvar, we were relatively happy with the room Adriatica.net placed us in, although there was no AC. The unit number was: EM-0124-1-S3. Our hostess Paulina was quite friendly, spoke Croatian, German, and some English, and was kind enough to meet us down in the main square in front of the tourist office, to take us to the house by car (parking space was included). The house was situated up on a hill, about a 15 minute walk from the harbor; a quiet neighborhood and a nice view.
Feel free to ask more questions.
Regards, Laz
Apr 9th, 2007 | 03:39 AM
#4
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
HI, what a great report.. I was considering a two-week trip, one week in Trogir and another in Cavtat, in order to enjoy Split and Dubrovnik yet not in the middle of it.. Would you recommend a week ineach of these spots for general beach town feel, good restaurants and shopping... I have two young kids, so sightseeing is mostly out...We're basically looking for two lovely,lively spots... thanks
Apr 9th, 2007 | 07:20 AM
#5
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,371
Likes: 0
Melody, you might want to research the towns of the Peljesac peninsula (just north of Dbv.) and Makarska riviera (just south of Split). They would have more of a beach town feel--and more child friendly beaches. I haven't stayed in these areas, just done a lot of research when travelling to other parts of Croatia. You will still be able to visit Split and Dubrovnik, but you will be spared the higher costs associated with staying so near them. Find out more at http://www.croatia.hr/English/Destin...Odredista.aspx
That said, Dbv. and especially Trogir are wonderfully child friendly, with families walking in the evenings and enjoying ice cream.
That said, Dbv. and especially Trogir are wonderfully child friendly, with families walking in the evenings and enjoying ice cream.
Apr 9th, 2007 | 07:09 PM
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 13
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Dear Melody,
I'm glad you enjoyed my report. Instead of choosing 2 places for 2 weeks, I would suggest 3 places. If you're looking for a beach town feel, that is lovely, large enough to be lively, and ideal for children, I highly recommend a few days in Makarska. Unlike, most of the beaches in Croatia, Makarska has a bay of shallow and pebbly beaches. Another location that would be suitable for children, is Bol and its famous Zlatni Rat beach, on the island of Brac. From there, you can take a day trip to Split, and visit Diocletian's Palace. On a smaller scale, perhaps not as crowded, and with a laid back feel, I would suggest Primosten, up the coast from Trogir. As wonderful as Trogir is, I think a week there would be overkill, especially with all the daytrippers. A week in Cavtat would also be too much. It's quite picturesque but a bit sleepy. Your children might run out of things to do and get bored. Finally, Dubrovnik is a must! You and your children would enjoy walking on top of the City's walls, and from the old harbor, you can take a short boat ride to several nearby beaches, like to Lokrum Island, and spend a good part of the day there, swimming, sunning, picnicking, etc.
Happy planning!
Laz
I'm glad you enjoyed my report. Instead of choosing 2 places for 2 weeks, I would suggest 3 places. If you're looking for a beach town feel, that is lovely, large enough to be lively, and ideal for children, I highly recommend a few days in Makarska. Unlike, most of the beaches in Croatia, Makarska has a bay of shallow and pebbly beaches. Another location that would be suitable for children, is Bol and its famous Zlatni Rat beach, on the island of Brac. From there, you can take a day trip to Split, and visit Diocletian's Palace. On a smaller scale, perhaps not as crowded, and with a laid back feel, I would suggest Primosten, up the coast from Trogir. As wonderful as Trogir is, I think a week there would be overkill, especially with all the daytrippers. A week in Cavtat would also be too much. It's quite picturesque but a bit sleepy. Your children might run out of things to do and get bored. Finally, Dubrovnik is a must! You and your children would enjoy walking on top of the City's walls, and from the old harbor, you can take a short boat ride to several nearby beaches, like to Lokrum Island, and spend a good part of the day there, swimming, sunning, picnicking, etc.
Happy planning!
Laz
Apr 10th, 2007 | 03:32 AM
#7
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 139
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thanks so much for the tips. I 'm going to investigate Makarska further, I just couldn't find any good villas there. I found a few in Podgora, not sure how close that would be to Makarska's action. Zlatni Rat does look great, too..
