Return to Switzerland – Stop One - Three Days in the Canton of Lucerne
Jun 9th, 2025 | 03:32 AM
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Return to Switzerland – Stop One - Three Days in the Canton of Lucerne
By Saul Schwartz
In May 2024, in our first trip to Switzerland, my wife Fern and I traveled from east to west. We toured Zurich, then Bern, then Zermatt, and finally Geneva. In our return trip of May 2025, we began our grand tour with three days in Lucerne (also known as Luzern in German). In central Switzerland, Lucerne is surrounded by both mountains and a scenic lake, Lake Lucerne, as well as the Reuss River. The websites from Switzerland Tourism and MySwitzerland were very helpful in our planning.
This time we flew nonstop from Washington Dulles to Zurich on a flight of eight hours. In Zurich we briefly stopped to take out Swiss Francs at an ATM machine and have coffee/tea drinks in the food court, with our breakfast. Then we took the one-hour train to Lucerne. There are normally two trains per hour on this route.
Based on our prior experience last year, we traveled with the Swiss Travel Pass. As a result, we did not have to purchase train tickets for each trip segment. We printed out our pass to show to the ticket inspectors upon request. Without a ticket, you can be fined up to 100 Swiss Francs. The first-class pass gave us more leg room and more space between seats. This segment featured glacier-fed lakes and craggy mountains.
Lodging –Radison Blu – The hotel is conveniently located about a five-minute walk from the train station and Lake Lucerne. The hotel provided a complementary card for local transportation, which we did not use since the city is very walkable. We really liked the fitness center, which included a nice variety of cardio equipment and weights. We also spent time in the two saunas, the relaxation room, and steam bath, next to the gym. Our hotel room size was modest, and the prices were high (as typical for Switzerland). By paying an extra fee, we checked in early to give us a better start on our touring.
Day 1
Chapel Bridge and Water Tower – After settling into our hotel, our first stop was walking over to and across Lucerne’s most photographed destination. The Chapel Bridge over the Reuss River links the old town to the new town. Together with its Water Tower, the timber pedestrian bridge is the city’s top landmark.
We discovered that a major part of the 650-year-old bridge caught fire in August 1993 and, as a result, many of its paintings were destroyed. Forty-eight of original cycle of paintings (from the seventeenth century) remain mounted on the gables of the rebuilt bridge, with their pictorial depictions of Swiss history and Lucerne history. The pictures are numbered, with descriptions in German. We could not tell for sure which parts of the bridge were original or reconstructions, although there are some visible burn marks on the paintings.
The distinctive Octagonal Water Tower next to the bridge has served different purposes over the years. It has been used as a prison, treasury and archive. It is now the headquarters of an artillery association. The public is not able to go within the Tower.
Coffee/tea break on the Reuss River – There are many cute café options on the river overlooking the Chapel Bridge and Water Tower. On a pleasant sunny day, we stopped at Starbucks for a midday break, sitting on chairs that overlooked this scenic viewpoint. In the background, we listened to an impromptu accordion player from a nearby table.
Jesuit Church – Next to the Reuss River, the radiant baroque Catholic church is modeled on a church in Rome (Church of the Gesu). Inauguration of the church was in 1677. The church is easily recognizable by its two green and white onion domes with their bell towers. Although the interior resembles marble throughout, we learned that the massive pink altarpiece is plaster and stucco. There is no entrance fee.
There is no charge for admission to visit. Looking up, we saw spectacular chandeliers, the large organ, and frescoes on the ceiling. The side chapels also look like marble but are also plaster and stucco.
Friedli’s Market Hall – Beneath the arcade of the town hall, there is a colorful, small fruit and vegetable market. We spoke to the vendors and learned that the offerings were from both regional sources and abroad. We purchased bananas and a sweet date/fig like treat from South Africa. The market is open Tuesday through Saturday, from 7 a.m.
Dinner at Tibits – Last year, we really enjoyed eating at Tibits. In Lucerne, we had dinner at the Tibits located right within the train station, on the second floor. This vegetarian/vegan restaurant has an extensive salad bar where you pay based on weight. The options are extensive, with hot and cold food, desserts, and drinks. The prices are moderate (for Switzerland). There are now 11 locations in Switzerland. The Lucerne location has excellent views over the station’s 15 platforms. Here we had a nice discussion with locals.
Day 2
Guided Walking Tour – Our two-hour tour through Get Your Gude was cancelled at the last minute due to the guide’s illness. We scrambled to replace it with a two-hour guided walking tour of the downtown through Free Walk Switzerland. This was a pay by tip experience. It was very educational and worthwhile.
Our meeting point was under the Monumental Archway in front of the train station (called Bahnhof). Our guide explained that the archway welcoming visitors to Lucerne was originally part of the front of the train station. The arch is all that remains from the original 1896-built train station after the fire of 1971. Above the clock, on top of the arch, is a large statute entitled Spirit of Our Times. The new train station is constantly busy!
One highlight was our walk over the fifteenth-century Spreuer wooded bridge. Although it is shorter than the Chapel Bridge, the Spreuer also goes over the Reuss River. This bridge contains another cycle of paintings. The 67 seventeenth century paintings attached to the top of the bridge highlights “the dance of death,” reminding the viewer that death can take place during all types of lifetime events. From this bridge, we could see some of the remaining city walls (called Musegg) and fortifications used for defense of Lucerne.
Our guide explained that the Needle Dam across from the Spreuer Bridge manually regulates the water level of the Reuss River with Lake Lucerne, through the insertion of timber needles. This engineering marvel was built between 1859 and 1861.
Another highlight was our walk-through Wine Market Square in the center of the old town. We thought that this was the most quaint and attractive square we saw in Lucerne. Our guide explained that the square was originally a fish market and then a market hall for trade of meat, bread, and leather. The beautiful working octagonal fountain in the center of the square honors Swiss guards. The surrounding buildings contain colorful frescoes, including biblical scenes and scenes of Swiss guards.
Next, we headed over to the moving Lion Monument, which honors the Swiss Guards in their defense of King Louis XVI in 1792 during the storming of the palace. This is probably the most famous memorial in Lucerne. The imposing stone dying lion is nestled within a rocky grotto within a charming, small park. Underneath the dying lion are the names of some of the guards who defended the French king. Our guide explained that the original architect died in an accident and that his replacement was unhappy with his fee. The monument was completed in 1821.
Our tour ended at the oldest church in Lucerne, known as the Hof Church or the Church of St. Leodegar. The existing building dates from the seventeenth century. The white stone interior contains an imposing Hof organ, ornate wooden pews, and magnificent frescoes. It is a monastery and parish church, with early Baroque architecture. The exterior features twin spires visible throughout Lucerne. It is free to enter.
Lunch from Coop – Within the Lucerne train station, there is an extremely large Coop supermarket. Taking advantage of the wonderful weather, we purchased our lunch items and ate outside by the University on benches. Coop has a very wide variety of premade salads. We particularly enjoyed the Budda Bowl option.
Lake Lucerne Cruise – In the afternoon, we took the one-hour panoramic cruise on a modern motorboat. The main boat terminal is right across from the railway station and there are attendants who sell tickets and provide helpful information. An excursion to central Switzerland is not complete without a boat cruise on one or more of the many beautiful lakes. The water is deep blue and crystal clear. Along the way, we saw many snow-covered mountain peaks. The one-hour cruise only makes one stop along the way.
Max Chocolatier – For our afternoon break, we stopped at the upscale shop. This exclusive store features natural ingredients for the Swiss handmade chocolates. We enjoyed a delicious dark chocolate drink and purchased bars to take away. The lavish store features many varieties of luxury chocolates. The store was opened in 2009. We were able to try samples of several varieties of vegan chocolates.
Dinner at L’Osteria Luzern– Adjacent to our hotel, we found a neighborhood Italian restaurant with both outdoor and indoor seating. The busy restaurant had a wide menu of pasta and pizza options. We enjoyed pasta and bread. The portions were generous, and the prices were moderate (for Switzerland). Without a reservation, we were limited to a one-hour stay at our table. The restaurant opened in 1999.
Day 3
Rosengart Museum - We began our day with a stop at the Rosengart art museum, just a short walk from the train station. This museum features many works of Pablo Picasso and Paul Klee. One of the three floors features impressionist works of art from 23 different artists. The receptionist at this small museum explained that the private collection was put together by a father art collector/dealer and his daughter. Although English language signage is limited with the works of art, there is an English language printed brochure available to view. The building previously was a neo-classical Swiss national bank branch, dating from 1924. The museum is closed at weekends.
Lake Lucerne Cruise to Weggis – We spent the bulk of the day cruising on Lake Lucerne to the charming town of Weggis. This time we took one of the nostalgic paddle steamboats for our one-hour cruise (each way).
Sheltered by Mt. Rigi, Weggis has a Mediterranean climate and feel. This town has fantastic views of the Swiss Alps and the lake. After arrival in Weggis, we ate a picnic lunch in the pavilion, while enjoying a mid-day accordion concert. Fern and I then walked down the promenade to the Mark Twain memorial. The bronze plaque is dedicated to the American author’s stay in Weggis during 1897. We sat on the bench by the oak tree where Twain stated, “I believe this place – Weggis – is the loveliest and most satisfying in the world.”
In the center of the town there is a bronze sculpture entitled “Dancer on the Lake.” The Rolf Brem sculpture shows a dancer facing Lake Lucerne.
Next, we had coffee/tea and a tasty carrot cake at Café Dahinden. The café’s bakery has received numerous Swiss bakery trophies. The popular family-run café has indoor and outdoor seating. We sat on the terrace with a lovely lake view.
We finished the evening at Inseli Park, where we sat with the locals looking out at Lake Lucerne.
Tips and observations: Three days in Lucerne seemed ideal to cover the key attractions. In addition to the Coop supermarket, we saw many food options for take away at the Migros and Bachman bakery within the train station. As a result, we did not have to eat each meal in an expensive restaurant.
We really enjoyed using the Swiss travel pass, first class version. It covered the train to Lucerne, each of our boat tours and the art museum. We had not purchased the pass during our May 2024 trip.
Although Lucerne in May was busier than we expected, the crowds were manageable. The weather was extremely pleasant, with sunny days and highs around 70 degrees.
The Lucerne city travel app provided helpful information in both audio and video form. It contained descriptions of each of the city’s main attractions. Most of the information from guidebooks is outdated. However, Foder’s Switzerland was a good starting point to look for ideas. For more current information about Lucerne, we enjoyed listening to podcasts from Holidays to Switzerland.
We knew about several museums in Lucerne that looked interesting, but since the weather was so nice, Fern and I chose outdoor activities instead.
We took out 150 Swiss Francs for our trip at the Zurich airport ATM. The exchange rate for the U.S. dollar was less favorable than in 2024.
Next, we headed off to the Interlaken Region for three days.
In May 2024, in our first trip to Switzerland, my wife Fern and I traveled from east to west. We toured Zurich, then Bern, then Zermatt, and finally Geneva. In our return trip of May 2025, we began our grand tour with three days in Lucerne (also known as Luzern in German). In central Switzerland, Lucerne is surrounded by both mountains and a scenic lake, Lake Lucerne, as well as the Reuss River. The websites from Switzerland Tourism and MySwitzerland were very helpful in our planning.
This time we flew nonstop from Washington Dulles to Zurich on a flight of eight hours. In Zurich we briefly stopped to take out Swiss Francs at an ATM machine and have coffee/tea drinks in the food court, with our breakfast. Then we took the one-hour train to Lucerne. There are normally two trains per hour on this route.
Based on our prior experience last year, we traveled with the Swiss Travel Pass. As a result, we did not have to purchase train tickets for each trip segment. We printed out our pass to show to the ticket inspectors upon request. Without a ticket, you can be fined up to 100 Swiss Francs. The first-class pass gave us more leg room and more space between seats. This segment featured glacier-fed lakes and craggy mountains.
Lodging –Radison Blu – The hotel is conveniently located about a five-minute walk from the train station and Lake Lucerne. The hotel provided a complementary card for local transportation, which we did not use since the city is very walkable. We really liked the fitness center, which included a nice variety of cardio equipment and weights. We also spent time in the two saunas, the relaxation room, and steam bath, next to the gym. Our hotel room size was modest, and the prices were high (as typical for Switzerland). By paying an extra fee, we checked in early to give us a better start on our touring.
Day 1
Chapel Bridge and Water Tower – After settling into our hotel, our first stop was walking over to and across Lucerne’s most photographed destination. The Chapel Bridge over the Reuss River links the old town to the new town. Together with its Water Tower, the timber pedestrian bridge is the city’s top landmark.
We discovered that a major part of the 650-year-old bridge caught fire in August 1993 and, as a result, many of its paintings were destroyed. Forty-eight of original cycle of paintings (from the seventeenth century) remain mounted on the gables of the rebuilt bridge, with their pictorial depictions of Swiss history and Lucerne history. The pictures are numbered, with descriptions in German. We could not tell for sure which parts of the bridge were original or reconstructions, although there are some visible burn marks on the paintings.
The distinctive Octagonal Water Tower next to the bridge has served different purposes over the years. It has been used as a prison, treasury and archive. It is now the headquarters of an artillery association. The public is not able to go within the Tower.
Coffee/tea break on the Reuss River – There are many cute café options on the river overlooking the Chapel Bridge and Water Tower. On a pleasant sunny day, we stopped at Starbucks for a midday break, sitting on chairs that overlooked this scenic viewpoint. In the background, we listened to an impromptu accordion player from a nearby table.
Jesuit Church – Next to the Reuss River, the radiant baroque Catholic church is modeled on a church in Rome (Church of the Gesu). Inauguration of the church was in 1677. The church is easily recognizable by its two green and white onion domes with their bell towers. Although the interior resembles marble throughout, we learned that the massive pink altarpiece is plaster and stucco. There is no entrance fee.
There is no charge for admission to visit. Looking up, we saw spectacular chandeliers, the large organ, and frescoes on the ceiling. The side chapels also look like marble but are also plaster and stucco.
Friedli’s Market Hall – Beneath the arcade of the town hall, there is a colorful, small fruit and vegetable market. We spoke to the vendors and learned that the offerings were from both regional sources and abroad. We purchased bananas and a sweet date/fig like treat from South Africa. The market is open Tuesday through Saturday, from 7 a.m.
Dinner at Tibits – Last year, we really enjoyed eating at Tibits. In Lucerne, we had dinner at the Tibits located right within the train station, on the second floor. This vegetarian/vegan restaurant has an extensive salad bar where you pay based on weight. The options are extensive, with hot and cold food, desserts, and drinks. The prices are moderate (for Switzerland). There are now 11 locations in Switzerland. The Lucerne location has excellent views over the station’s 15 platforms. Here we had a nice discussion with locals.
Day 2
Guided Walking Tour – Our two-hour tour through Get Your Gude was cancelled at the last minute due to the guide’s illness. We scrambled to replace it with a two-hour guided walking tour of the downtown through Free Walk Switzerland. This was a pay by tip experience. It was very educational and worthwhile.
Our meeting point was under the Monumental Archway in front of the train station (called Bahnhof). Our guide explained that the archway welcoming visitors to Lucerne was originally part of the front of the train station. The arch is all that remains from the original 1896-built train station after the fire of 1971. Above the clock, on top of the arch, is a large statute entitled Spirit of Our Times. The new train station is constantly busy!
One highlight was our walk over the fifteenth-century Spreuer wooded bridge. Although it is shorter than the Chapel Bridge, the Spreuer also goes over the Reuss River. This bridge contains another cycle of paintings. The 67 seventeenth century paintings attached to the top of the bridge highlights “the dance of death,” reminding the viewer that death can take place during all types of lifetime events. From this bridge, we could see some of the remaining city walls (called Musegg) and fortifications used for defense of Lucerne.
Our guide explained that the Needle Dam across from the Spreuer Bridge manually regulates the water level of the Reuss River with Lake Lucerne, through the insertion of timber needles. This engineering marvel was built between 1859 and 1861.
Another highlight was our walk-through Wine Market Square in the center of the old town. We thought that this was the most quaint and attractive square we saw in Lucerne. Our guide explained that the square was originally a fish market and then a market hall for trade of meat, bread, and leather. The beautiful working octagonal fountain in the center of the square honors Swiss guards. The surrounding buildings contain colorful frescoes, including biblical scenes and scenes of Swiss guards.
Next, we headed over to the moving Lion Monument, which honors the Swiss Guards in their defense of King Louis XVI in 1792 during the storming of the palace. This is probably the most famous memorial in Lucerne. The imposing stone dying lion is nestled within a rocky grotto within a charming, small park. Underneath the dying lion are the names of some of the guards who defended the French king. Our guide explained that the original architect died in an accident and that his replacement was unhappy with his fee. The monument was completed in 1821.
Our tour ended at the oldest church in Lucerne, known as the Hof Church or the Church of St. Leodegar. The existing building dates from the seventeenth century. The white stone interior contains an imposing Hof organ, ornate wooden pews, and magnificent frescoes. It is a monastery and parish church, with early Baroque architecture. The exterior features twin spires visible throughout Lucerne. It is free to enter.
Lunch from Coop – Within the Lucerne train station, there is an extremely large Coop supermarket. Taking advantage of the wonderful weather, we purchased our lunch items and ate outside by the University on benches. Coop has a very wide variety of premade salads. We particularly enjoyed the Budda Bowl option.
Lake Lucerne Cruise – In the afternoon, we took the one-hour panoramic cruise on a modern motorboat. The main boat terminal is right across from the railway station and there are attendants who sell tickets and provide helpful information. An excursion to central Switzerland is not complete without a boat cruise on one or more of the many beautiful lakes. The water is deep blue and crystal clear. Along the way, we saw many snow-covered mountain peaks. The one-hour cruise only makes one stop along the way.
Max Chocolatier – For our afternoon break, we stopped at the upscale shop. This exclusive store features natural ingredients for the Swiss handmade chocolates. We enjoyed a delicious dark chocolate drink and purchased bars to take away. The lavish store features many varieties of luxury chocolates. The store was opened in 2009. We were able to try samples of several varieties of vegan chocolates.
Dinner at L’Osteria Luzern– Adjacent to our hotel, we found a neighborhood Italian restaurant with both outdoor and indoor seating. The busy restaurant had a wide menu of pasta and pizza options. We enjoyed pasta and bread. The portions were generous, and the prices were moderate (for Switzerland). Without a reservation, we were limited to a one-hour stay at our table. The restaurant opened in 1999.
Day 3
Rosengart Museum - We began our day with a stop at the Rosengart art museum, just a short walk from the train station. This museum features many works of Pablo Picasso and Paul Klee. One of the three floors features impressionist works of art from 23 different artists. The receptionist at this small museum explained that the private collection was put together by a father art collector/dealer and his daughter. Although English language signage is limited with the works of art, there is an English language printed brochure available to view. The building previously was a neo-classical Swiss national bank branch, dating from 1924. The museum is closed at weekends.
Lake Lucerne Cruise to Weggis – We spent the bulk of the day cruising on Lake Lucerne to the charming town of Weggis. This time we took one of the nostalgic paddle steamboats for our one-hour cruise (each way).
Sheltered by Mt. Rigi, Weggis has a Mediterranean climate and feel. This town has fantastic views of the Swiss Alps and the lake. After arrival in Weggis, we ate a picnic lunch in the pavilion, while enjoying a mid-day accordion concert. Fern and I then walked down the promenade to the Mark Twain memorial. The bronze plaque is dedicated to the American author’s stay in Weggis during 1897. We sat on the bench by the oak tree where Twain stated, “I believe this place – Weggis – is the loveliest and most satisfying in the world.”
In the center of the town there is a bronze sculpture entitled “Dancer on the Lake.” The Rolf Brem sculpture shows a dancer facing Lake Lucerne.
Next, we had coffee/tea and a tasty carrot cake at Café Dahinden. The café’s bakery has received numerous Swiss bakery trophies. The popular family-run café has indoor and outdoor seating. We sat on the terrace with a lovely lake view.
We finished the evening at Inseli Park, where we sat with the locals looking out at Lake Lucerne.
Tips and observations: Three days in Lucerne seemed ideal to cover the key attractions. In addition to the Coop supermarket, we saw many food options for take away at the Migros and Bachman bakery within the train station. As a result, we did not have to eat each meal in an expensive restaurant.
We really enjoyed using the Swiss travel pass, first class version. It covered the train to Lucerne, each of our boat tours and the art museum. We had not purchased the pass during our May 2024 trip.
Although Lucerne in May was busier than we expected, the crowds were manageable. The weather was extremely pleasant, with sunny days and highs around 70 degrees.
The Lucerne city travel app provided helpful information in both audio and video form. It contained descriptions of each of the city’s main attractions. Most of the information from guidebooks is outdated. However, Foder’s Switzerland was a good starting point to look for ideas. For more current information about Lucerne, we enjoyed listening to podcasts from Holidays to Switzerland.
We knew about several museums in Lucerne that looked interesting, but since the weather was so nice, Fern and I chose outdoor activities instead.
We took out 150 Swiss Francs for our trip at the Zurich airport ATM. The exchange rate for the U.S. dollar was less favorable than in 2024.
Next, we headed off to the Interlaken Region for three days.
