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RETURN TO CAMPANIA--ISCHIA CASTS ITS SPELL

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RETURN TO CAMPANIA--ISCHIA CASTS ITS SPELL

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Old Dec 27th, 2009, 12:16 PM
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I am sorry that this report is taking me so long to complete; I am in the midst of a home renovation and most of my notes are buried in the dust. But here is a bit more, including details of the first of our two best meals of the week (both at the same restaurant!)



We had originally planned to tour the island by rental car on that Tuesday, capping the adventure with dinner that evening at the SlowFood trattoria, Il Focolare, in the hills outside the port of Casamicciola. But giving up our idea of renting transport made access to the restaurant problematic. (We later heard varying responses in answer to our question as to whether or not Il Focolare was accessible by bus). The issue was settled by Gianni, proprietor of Villa Melodie who, as described above, emphatically declared the best rabbit cook on the island to be Renato who presided over the stove at Da Pepina “just up the hill.”

So when we descended to the lobby that evening, we were surprised to learn from Manuela at the front desk that Da Peppina was “very difficult to reach on foot.” In this opinion she was joined by Gianni’s mother, who declared walking there to be a downright “dangerous” folly. Reluctant to pay the high island taxi rates to reach a spot that Giannni maintained was an easy stoll from the hotel, we set off about 7:15, leaving plenty of time to reach the restaurant by our appointed reservation hour of 8pm.


Da Peppina, it turns out, is located about a 20 minute walk up a VERY steep hill (actually the lower slopes of the island’s volcano) from the main road and, therefore, from the bus stop. The road (the same one that winds upwards to Mt. Epomeo) is indeed, narrow and dark. And did I mention that it was very steep? We huffed and puffed for about 20 minutes, past private residences, a couple of guesthouses, and the agriturismo Il Vitigno (recommended here by Vicenzo) before finally spotting a sign pointing us in the right direction toward Da Peppina. Or so we thought. Just as we were despairing of our efforts, a kindly driver responded to my frantic wave and pointed us in the right direction. It turns out that we had passed the restaurant and failed, in the blackness, to see the discreet sign out front.

Da Peppina is located down a flight of steps that leads to a pair of dining areas—one inside and one partly open to the air. As soon as we were shown to our terrace table, we knew that the walk had been worth the effort. Here was the fantasy of an Italian restaurant hidden in the hills and presided over by a congenial owner-chef who greeted us in perfect English, and inquired if there was anything particular we felt like eating that evening. We told Renato that we certainly had to sample his famous rabbit, and that we would leave the rest up to him. (There is a printed menu but we noticed that the other guests also deferred to the chef).

Virtually everything on offer with the exception of cheeses from the mainland, comes from Renato’s land, or from the nearby hills.
The enchanting candlelit terrace—tables cloaked in rich gold cloths, chairs crafted from old iron headboards, stone walls embellished with colorful ceramic tiles, massive terracotta urns nestled in niches—is shaded by a twig-thatched canopy and overlooks the hills and the bay of Citara in the distance.

We began with a platter of affettati misti which were, in a word, sublime. Tiny polpettine marinate comprised of three different finely ground meats in a light tomato-based sauce; the celebrated bocconcini of mozzarella from Agerola; delicate crepes encasing eggplant, zucchini and mushroom; crespelle of house-cured ham bathed in a light besciamella; and an involtini of eggplant that was beyond fabulous.

For my primi, Renato brought mezzemaniche (stout tubular pasta) with cherry tomatoes, (ribbons of drying tomatoes festoon the kitchen area) and eggplant, infused with a smoky tinge from my beloved provola affumicata (smoked provola cheese). (My notes declare simply, “the best pasta I have ever eaten”)

For my partner, the island’s signature pasta, bucatini al sugo di coniglio, or long, hollow strands of pasta bathed in a tomato rabbit sauce.


Next to arrive was a terra cotta vessel containing the famous Ischia rabbit in a tomato and herb cacciatore sauce that allowed the flavor of the rabbit to shine and bore no resemblance whatsoever to the myriad of cacciatore dishes served at Italian restaurants back home. Taking one taste, my partner declared that he had never eaten a better dish in his entire life! Accompanying the rabbit were roasted potatoes that were certainly the best potatoes I ever remembered eating!

Renato’s daughter is the pastry chef and we could not close our meal without sampling the two special sweets on offer that evening: Cheesecake and a Dilizia di Cioccolato, a moussey-concoction of pure chocolatey bliss.

With our dinner we drank the middling house local white wine. Since no prices were marked on the menu, we took turns guessing at the final tally…would the meal cost 150 euro—a fair price for such pleasure?

The total, with a carafe of house wine and bottled water, was 58 euro.

Da Peppina is closed Wednesdays off season. Dinner only, except by prior arrangement.


http://www.trattoriadapeppina.it/index.php
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Old Dec 28th, 2009, 03:49 AM
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I forgot to relate one funny episode that occurred that evening, our last at the villa Melodie before moving to Ischia Porto:

The Villa Melodie offers a very reasonable half-board package, which is taken by most of the many older, German-speaking guests of the hotel. A sign at the front desk indicates the dishes on offer for dinner that evening. On our last evening at Villa Melodie, the sign pronounced the first course to be "spaghetti puttanesca," a popular pasta dish sauced with tomatoes, capers, olives and chilis that is reported to have originated on the island.

Before dinner, guests often congregate in the airy plant-filled lobby lounge, where Gianni presides over the small bar.

That evening, upon setting off for Da Peppina, we overheard a commotion in the bar area. Raised voices speaking Italian and German, hand waving, commotion.


The story as it unfolded: One of the German ladies of a certain age had taken umbrage at the evening's special pasta, which translates as "whore's spaghetti," a reference to the simplicity of the preparation that could be completed in between the wait for clients.

"Spaghetti named for a prostitute? A whore? What kind of food is this??!! This is disrespectful! An outrage!!! A gross insult!!! I demand spaghetti with tomatoes!!!"


As Gianni tried to restore order, we exited the hotel and made our way to Da Peppina, where Spaghetti alla Puttanesca was NOT among the evening's offerings.
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Old Dec 28th, 2009, 03:01 PM
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ekscrunchy, thanks for the funny addition to one evening out for dinner "puttanesca", that actually sounds good, not the rabbit for me though, had one for a pet a while back. So, what do people wear out for dinner in Ischia. We travel real casual. I plan on only one carry-on (back-pac) I'm a rinse out in sink kind of traveller. We don't need skirts/dresses or jackets do we? Loren
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Old Dec 28th, 2009, 03:33 PM
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Great report, thanks for all the information and helpful links.

Alice
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Old Dec 29th, 2009, 02:10 AM
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I am glad you are enjoying.

Loren: Ischia is very casual; you do not need anything dressy. You could wear "nice" jeans if you like.
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Old Dec 29th, 2009, 10:09 AM
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The next morning, Wednesday, we spent a couple of hours swimming in the Villa Melodie’s wonderful pool, which was almost deserted, as was the case most mornings, when our fellow guests were off on excursions around the island.

Around noon, Gianni kindly gave us a lift to the bus stop, imparting another restaurant suggestion en route, which we would heed that evening, and soon we were bound for our next destination, Hotel Il Moresco, where we would spend the next three nights.

We descended from the bus at the deposito across from the port, and dragged our wheeled bags along the pedestrian artery that leads east toward Ischia Ponte. (the hotel has a free shuttle to the port, as we would learn upon our departure three days later) A walk of about 20 minutes found us on the quiet green lane leading to the sea, and then to the discreet sign indicating Il Moresco.

We had booked the least expensive room category but, true to his word, the charming Pietro at the front desk had booked us into room #417, which had a small balcony with a partial sea view. Eager to take advantage of the first rays of sun we had seen in what seemed like days, we quickly changed into our swim gear and descended to the pool area. Set in glorious gardens studded with heated thermal pools and traversed by an arched bridge, the large, oval Il Moresco swimming pool was our idea of heaven. It was then and there that we fell in love with this hotel and began to understand why most of the guests, according to Pietro, were repeat visitors. Luxurious in a homey way is how I would characterize the hotel, which was built in the middle of the last century in a vaguely Moorish style from which it derives its name. ( Unfortunately I cannot find the history which the manager kindly printed out for me; if I come across it, I will insert a few details).

After a lazy couple of hours, we set off to explore the immediate surroundings of the hotel, which sits midway between Porto and Ponte, within a 20 minute or so walk or a quick trip on the #7 minibus that links the two centers. While there are plenty of tourist-oriented fashion boutiques on the pedestrian stretch that changes its name from Via Roma, near the port, to Corso Vittorio Colonna near Il Moresco, to Via Pontano, nearing Ischia Ponte, these are interspersed with local-oriented businesses—tiny food shops, gelaterias, and the like.

Ischia Ponte itself remains the quintessence of a charming southern Italian port town. I found the location of the Moresco to be ideal, although the best places to eat seem to require a long walk or a bus or taxi ride. (The hotel does offer a splendid half-board option which would be the most sensible way to go economically. Our room cost 230 euro per night with buffet breakfast; for 50 euro more, we could have had our dinners included. The chef is renowned as one of the best on the island. But dining in the hotel each night would have removed much of the excitement of ferreting out new places, so we passed this time)
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Old Jan 3rd, 2010, 10:38 AM
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After wandering around for a couple of hours, we headed for the bus “deposito,” where we boarded a bus for the trip of 30 minutes or so to the Campo Sportivo bus stop just before the town of Forio. There we got down and walked about ten minutes, away from the coast, to the restaurant that Gianni at Villa Melodie had recommended to us when we inquired about the best food on the island. (His other recommendation had been the fantastic Da Peppina, which is closed Wednesdays, so we had high hopes for Limoneto).

IL LIMONETO

Il Limoneto is a beautiful restaurant with a cheery lemon yellow dining room adored with brick archways, and a large outdoor thatched roof terrace, lush with the lemon trees that give the place its name, where we chose to be seated that evening.

This restaurant is not listed in any of the guidebooks that I read, and since the location is off the usual tourist beat, most of the other diners appeared to be locals. This would be a great choice for a romantic dinner, as the surroundings are quite lovely.


The man who waited on us spoke fairly good English. Although the service was professional, we both felt that the restaurant lacked a warm and welcoming ambience. Nevertheless, the food was so good that I would certainly recommend it and perhaps I should not made a critique based on one dinner.

My partner began with fried zucchini flowers stuffed with anchovy-laced ricotta cheese. A marvelous rendition of a local favorite and one Ii would be sure to order were we to return.
I could not decide between the octopus or the vongole veraci, so I chose to begin with a half order of each. Having seen little variety in the fish market we visited in Ischia Porto, I asked the server, "Are the clams local?" His answer reveals a lot about the meaning of the word "local," in Italy: "No, the clams are not from around here, they are from Naples."
Naples, of course, is just across the bay from the island of Ischia!
This dish was spectacular. Dozens of tiny clams bathed in a light, garlicky tomato-based sauce studded with cubes of toasted bread surrounded one lone octopus, served in intact with the head, that tied for the honors of THE best octopus I'd ever eaten. (Its competition was the moscardini I had devoured at Trattoria Cesarina in Santa Margherita on the Ligurian coast two years before) The essence of clams and octopus. Simple. Worth a detour! (It looked something like this, but with tiny clams, without olives, and with only one octopus:
http://tasteofsorrento.sorrentoinfo....i_affogati.jpg



I continued my meal with a plate of grilled gamberoni. Served heads on, these were the reddest shrimp I'd ever eaten and were, again, superb, served with a disc of white rice.
My partner chose a primi as his second course: Fusilli with ragu di coniglio—short, curly pasta with tomatoe-based rabbit sauce. Excellent.
We drank a half carafe of the unmemorable house white wine. The bill for two totalled 68 euro. A good choice for an upscale meal, especially on the night that Da Peppina is closed!
(They also have a wood-burning pizza oven and we observed other diners beginning their dinners with pizza)

http://www.ristorantelimoneto.com/ind...
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Old Apr 16th, 2010, 02:26 PM
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I've not yet discussed our visit to Ischia's famed gardens of La Mortella, but I just learned that their benefactress, Lady Susana Walton, died recently. In case any of you have not heard and are interested:


http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obit...-obituary.html
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Old Apr 21st, 2010, 07:30 AM
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Yes, we just returned form Ischia. The gardens were closed for a while. I hope they are open and will stay open now.
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Old Apr 21st, 2010, 02:56 PM
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She introduced the concert I attended at La Mortella. I had no idea of what a crummy husband Sir Walton was! Interesting obituary.

Her garden was one of my favorite places on Ischia.
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Old Oct 6th, 2010, 02:29 PM
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Ekscrunchy, I loved your trip report, thank you so much for all the great information. We have decided to add a few days in Ischia to our upcoming trip to Amalfi in June. I also read all about your search for the best place to base yourself in Ischia. Now that you have been there, where you would recommend staying. I'm considering Ischia Ponte. The Hotel Il Moresco looks beautiful but may be out of our price range in June. Would you suggest I look for another place in that area or another area?
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Old Oct 6th, 2010, 03:38 PM
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If I may step in, I don't know about hotels because we stay with family, but Ischia Ponte is a good area because it a big village on the island. The bus service is great and you can take the bus to all the other villages like Sant Angelo, Forio, etc. It has some beach yet you have so many stores and restaurants within walking distance. Go to ischiaonline.it and click for English. There are a lot of hotels you can pick from on that site. If Ekscrunchy can recommend one, even better.
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Old Oct 6th, 2010, 04:09 PM
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Thanks Ann, I see you have also given lots of great information on Ischia. It sounds like Ischia Ponte will make a great base for a few days. Do you know if it is possible to take a ferry direct from Amalfi to Ischia? I found a ferry from Sorrento but not Amalfi.
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Old Oct 6th, 2010, 04:24 PM
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Ischia Ponte or Ischia Porto?
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Old Oct 7th, 2010, 02:25 AM
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Deb: I am delighted that you are planning a visit to Ischia and if there is anything I can add I will be happy to do so. After having stayed at two locations, I will say, with difficulty, that I agree with Ann. Ischia Ponte is a more appealing town than Forio (Forio is by no means unattractive, but just not as good as IP) and I also liked Ischia Porto, even with the one long pedestrianized street that is lined with some fancy shops. There is nothing tacky about the port area, by the way, so no need to discount hotels right near the port; that has the added attraction of being steps from the main bus depot. Because the island has the good bus system, almost as important as the actual location would be the closeness to a bus stop.

If you stay in Ischia Porto, you can access on foot the main bus line that runs around the island. If you stay in Ischia Ponte, you have to take the minibus to the depot.

Of course, all this changes if you want to be near a beach, because the better ones are on the south coast and also near Forio. There is at least one great trip report by CarolineE that details staying in Sant Angelo. But unless your main concern is the beach, I would not stay there.

Il Moresco is a dream and we often talk about it and look back on our time there. If you can stretch your budget to stay there, I would recommend. If not, you have to decide which factors are most important to you because I could not find the one "perfect" hotel in any price range!

No ferry direct from Amalfi, but I think there are from Sorrento and definitely from Naples, of course.
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Old Oct 7th, 2010, 02:53 AM
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Ekscrunchy is correct. Sant Angelo is worth a visit, but if you want to be in an easy accessible place Porto and Ponte are your better choices. Sant Angelo is good also to access Maronti beach and it has one of it's own. Sant Angelo has it's benefits, but it just isn't in the thick of it.

I know there is an aliscafo from the village of Amalfi because I saw the sign when we were there, I just don't know the schedule. I haven't been able to find it. You can contact the hotel about that. In June the Aliscafi ferries are at their height. It may have a stop or you may have to connect. Sorrento has one direct trip a day.
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Old Oct 7th, 2010, 01:23 PM
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Thank you ladies, I will start looking at hotels in Ischia Porto. It sounds like that location will work best for us.

Does anyone have information/know where I can find information on the aliscafo from Amalfi to Ischia?
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 06:04 AM
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If you can't find it by just searching, I would contact the hotel you're staying at and ask them for a website. There are a couple of different companies. Some are owned by the same parent company. Alilauro is one. Caremar is another.
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 06:26 AM
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Woefully outdated, but here is a clue, at least to the name of a ferry company that makes this run:

http://www.amalficoastweb.com/amalfi...t_ferries.html
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 03:57 PM
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Ann/Ekscrunchy - Thanks again for your help! I will certainly ask the hotel...when I find one. Are most of the hotels in Ischia Porto close to the bus? Should I be looking close to the port? I was also considering staying in Sorrento overnight and taking the ferry from there. That could work since we are planning to visit Sorrento anyway.
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