LoveItaly

That is what I would do, SusanP. I sort of cringed when I read your other post if truth be told. And having read so many of your former posts I know you are a very considerate person. I do hope you can get this worked out of course. Good wishes to you!

SusanP

LoveItaly, I know, I felt terrible for even considering it! It is so NOT something I would do. I'll see what they say about paying for it now.

LoveItaly

SusanP, we all have thoughts at times that seem Ok and than later make us cringe. I so hope you can work out the situation as you know I think the world of you and always wish you the very best. Signed: Not an angel either!

hanabilly

Hi ekscrunchy. I really enjoy your reports - you've helped me plan my week in Rome with all your restaurant information, and now I'm following you to Ischia - but just for one day. Ischia is our first stop on a Windstar cruise from Rome to Barcelona. We considered the ship's shore excursion, but would rather go independent if it proves to be convenient. Do you think we'd find plenty to do and see that is convenient to the port either by walking or a short bus or taxi? How would you spend one day on the island (about 8 hrs?) Since our dinners are all on the boat, we like to find a nice place to have lunch at each of our stops. I think I'd like to visit the castle and other than that, mostly wander around, taking pictures, etc.
Thanks for any input.

Ann1

hanabilly: You didn't ask me, but I will give you some ideas. I don't know which port the Windstar comes into. If it's Ischia Porto, you can walk or take the bus to Ischia Ponte and walk around the village and go to Aragonese Castle. From any port you can take the bus to Forio and Lacco Ameno. There are museums, etc. You can take the bus to Sant Angelo and walk around the village. It's a small island and the bus goes everywhere. La Mortella Gardens is interesting. You can easily fill a day and find great food for lunch anywhere. Go to www.ischiaonline.it or just search Ischia. With the bus and your feet, you can easily fill 8 hours.

hanabilly

Thanks, Ann1. This sounds like one port of call we will enjoy on our own. On Corsica we plan on taking the arranged shore excursions. I am finding that the public transportation there is pretty limited, and everything has greater distances between. Any tips for a nice lunch restaurant near Aragonese Castle, or anywhere in the Ischia Ponte area? I'm not sure which port it comes into either. Our itinerary merely lists "Ischia."

hanabilly

PS - Sorry, by the way. Not intending to hijack this report - I just thought it would be a good place to get the attention of those familiar with Ischia. I'll go back to my own room now!
Thanks again.

ekscrunchy

Oh, don't go back to your own room! I am having some computer trouble but here is a bit more; the question is a coincidence because at the entrance to the Castle, we met a trip of Americans who were cruising with Windstar! They were touring by themselves and were very enthusiastic about Ischia. I think that the ship was docked in Ischia Porto.

The alternative to the bus is to hire a taxi for the day.

The restaurants that I might recommend seem to be closed for lunch, but this one gets good reports:

http://www.albertoischia.it/

Another one that sounded promising is Da Coco but I have no address.







Ischia Ponte (known as “Ponte” to the locals) is a picture-postcard port town dominated by the massive bulk of the Castello Aragonese, connected to the town via a pedestrian causeway, which gives the scene the appearance of a movie or opera set. The Aragonese Castle takes its name from Alfonso of Aragon, who embellished fortifications originally constructed by Greeks from Siracusa in the 5th Century B.C., and linked the castle to the mainland via a bridge, creating an impregnable refuge against the marauding Saracens. By the 1700s, the castle was home to more than 2,000 families and 13 churches.

These photos convey the scene better than my words:

http://tinyurl.com/yhhpupt


http://tinyurl.com/yjzb9yl


We wandered through the streets for a while, and up to the entrance to the castle, but decided to save a visit to the interior for another day. Ischia Ponte itself contains a healthy mix of local and tourist-oriented businesses. Even in the rain, the views of the castle looming up above the town and the beach made for some excellent photos.

From there, we followed the cobbled pedestrian artery, Via Pontano/Corso Vittoria Colonna west , past the botanical park to the adjacent Ischia Porto. Although I had read accounts referring to this area as overly boutiqued, we found it charming. While there are some fancy clothing shops, and postcar vendors, these alternate with locally oriented businesses, especially in the narrow side streets near the port where we noticed a healthy sprinkling of food shops to be explored later in the week.

Our destination that early afternoon was the Hotel Il Moresco. I had read the glowing reviews of this decidedly old-fashioned luxury and wanted to take a look, in case the poor weather continued and we wanted to be “closer to the action.” Suffice to say that we were so captivated by our short visit that we decided then and there to splurge and spend the last few nights of the week at Il Moresco.
Although the price would be much higher than the Villa Melodie, we were able to take advantage of the low season rates and the courtly and charming Pietro at the front desk assured us that we could have one of the few rooms in the lowest price category that enjoyed a private terrace with lateral sea view.

annabelle2

This is fun; I am taking a nice walk with you. Much better than working!

hanabilly

Thanks, ekscrunchy. Good luck with your computer. Ponte and Porto look like they'll be nice places to wander around in for a few hours. Alberto looks good - certainly can't top the view!
Looking forward to the rest of your report.

ekscrunchy

Thanks, everyone! I have an appointment today with the specialists at the computer "hospital!" I hope that this illness will not require an in-patient procedure! If I am away for a few days, you will know what happened!

Ann1

Sorry I don't know restaurants because my family would cut off our hands if we went to one. I do know that in Il Pescatore in Sant Angelo they have great pizza. I mean the 2 minute in the forno kind.

Sometimes little information things just come to my mind. If anyone is going anywhere that Limoncello is produced, don't drink the Limoncello they have in the shops with beautifully decorated bottles. Buy Limoncello either from the agriturismo where it was made or a store that can guide you to a good brand. The stuff in the "tourist bottles" is vile.

Jim_Tardio

<i>Another one that sounded promising is Da Coco but I have no address.</i>

"Da Coco"...or "Coco Gelo", is located right at the entrance of the pedestrian causeway to the Castello. They make great rabbit...be sure to reserve this meal in advance.

My favorite restaurant on Ischia.

ekscrunchy

Jim: thank you for adding that. I did notice that restaurant!

I only wish that we had had more days so we could have explored much more of "your' captivating island.

We did pass the Hotel Mareblu several times and from the location alone, it looks like a terrific place to stay. When we spotted it the first time, I exclaimed to my travel partner that "my Fodor's friend, Jim,who has family here" recommended the hotel. It looks much more spiffy than I had imagined!

caroline_edinburgh

Hi ekscrunchy. Really enjoying this, thanks so much - your trip reports are always so well written and evocative ! I'm so glad you loved Ischia too. Brings it all back, sigh...

I have to say that if I'd found the airport bus already packed I'd have waited for the next one Each time we've got it we've been first on so no problem, with seats and our bags right in front of us in the central luggage area. Also, if you are ever getting one of those hydrofoils again (and for anyone else planning to), note that some people (including us) take their luggage into the cabin and stack them at the back, behind the seats - you can then sit at a table nearby and enjoy a cold beer

Your comment "the island has two principal cuisines; restaurants on the perimeter of the island tend to focus on seafood, while those in the interior specialize in rabbit, pork and other “land-based” foods" made me smile. The first time we went we were keen to try the Ischian-style rabbit but hadn't seen it on any menus. Eventually I asked our breakfast waitress "dove possiamo mangiare il coniglio ?" to which her answer (in a "obviously, you stupid woman" tone of voice) was "in montagne !". As you know these mountains are – what – a mile away ? 2 miles ?! Anyway we did eventually find it, in Sant'Angelo and on Procida.

I have wondered if maybe Ischia is not so popular with American and indeed British travellers is because – well, because it has traditionally not been visited by a lot of English-speakers, so I've sometimes thought that anyone who didn't know Italian or German might struggle at times. As you noticed German is very much the second language. I read somewhere that the German national health service used to pay for their citizens to visit the Ischian spas !!

I'm shocked to hear you had rubbish tomatoes at one place – we were shocked to have them twice at Lake Garda last year, but that's the only place in Italy I ever experienced it and thought that perhaps that far north, they were more likely to come from the glasshouses/polytunnels of Holland than the fields of southern Italy. Surprised to hear about the cheese-less parmigiana too – btw we have recently had great success in making it with smoked mozzarella, which adds just a subtle smokiness.

We went to Da Coco although just for ice cream, but got the impression it was more of a snack bar than a restaurant.

kybourbon

>>>Ischia Ponte (known as “Ponte” to the locals) is a picture-postcard port town dominated by the massive bulk of the Castello Aragonese, connected to the town via a pedestrian causeway, which gives the scene the appearance of a movie or opera set.<<<

Yes, The Talented Mr. Ripley did some filming there along with Piazza Malcovati.

Jim_Tardio

Yes, the front of Cocos is mainly a gelato/wine snack bar. The entrance to the restaurant is on the causeway itself.

caroline_edinburgh

Ah right, thanks Jim - I'll try to remember that and your tip for their rabbit.

ekscrunchy

We just rented The Talented Mr. Ripley and were so excited when we recognized various spots. The castle is one of the stars of the entire film! They also shot on Procida and in Palermo and, I think, in NAples. What en enjoyable film!

Caroline: You are correct about the airport bus, but you know I get overly anxious and wanted to be sure of making that aliscafi so we just crammed on with the rest of the sardines. And if I did not have the humongous black "albatross," I could have simply lifted by bag and sat with it on the boat. But NO!! That would have been too easy and not in keeping with the Ekscrunchy traveling style which means being encumbered by, not only the albatross suitcase, but with small bags of incidentals which might range, at any given moment, from the usual guidebooks, to bags stuffed with the above-mentioned smoked mozzarella and other purchases from local shops, to who knows what else.

Anyway, sorry for the rant, Caroline. I did recall your craving for rabbit and have to laugh at the waitresses comments! We eventually did find it--at a restaurant that now ranks up there with our favorites in Italy! (We went twice and I will get to the descriptions when I get back here; not to make more excuses for myself, but I am having a terrible time with this laptop and the wireless "service" in my building. (The apartment is being renovated and my usual desktop is under a pile of plastic wrap someplace; I was repeatedly told to move out while the work went on, but that is not so easy!)


The tomatoes absolutely shocked and depressed me. This was our first night and it was raining and here we were, presented with tomatoes that I would not touch back home! How could this be happening? Anyway, the rest of the meal turned out all right. But when I later mentioned the place to Gianni at Villa Melodie, his smile vanished and he sighed, saying that the owners were very nice people but that they just did not have very good food there. (Normally I would have consulted him the first minute, but I was feeling a bit guilty about not taking our meals there; each time we walked out of the hotel during dinner time I felt reproachful looks from the receptionist, as in: Why are you going out to eat when we have very good food here, at low prices; they actually offered rabbit on our first night, a Sunday)


About Da Coco: I had a feeling that it was very good and now Jim has confirmed this. The wonderful front desk person at the second hotel we stayed at, Il Moresco, recommended two places when I asked him about local favorites: Da Coco and Damiano. (Damiano is in Porto, but on the main road away from the port)


I, too, heard that the German government paid for employees to "take the cure" on Ischia. The Italian health service once did this, too, if what I read is correct. It did seem a bit strange at first to be addressed by "Guten Morgan!" For some reason, this was more apt to occur in and around Forio than around Porto and Ponte. Could be my imagination, though.



I will be back soon with details of our second dinner, in Forio.

caroline_edinburgh

Hi eks. Since you were able to catch a boat directly to Forio I guess that was worth standing on the bus for - it must have made things a lot easier. I like the image of you and your assorted bags of foodstuffs etc ! We usually take what I'd class as a medium sized, rolling suitcase each (although some here might call them large) but I usually manage to get away with just a very small shoulder bag too while anything else goes in the in-flight bag / day sac carried by DH