We just returned from 8 days in this apartment in Rome. I'd like to thank Paula for recommending it and also Elaine for putting me onto RealRome in the first place.

The location is wonderful: in Trastevere just across the Tiber from the Forum. Also only a ten minute walk from Campo dei Fiori. Really charming neighborhood with tons of restaurants. The apartment is directly over a small fruit shop and one block from a fantastic bakery. You can catch the H bus practically at the front door which takes you directly to the main train station.

The apartment is very modern inside, with a large living room, well-stocked kitchen with all appliances except a microwave, and a bathroom with toilet, sink and washiing machine/dryer combo, all on the main floor. Plenty of closets and storage, also. Round dining room table with 4 chairs, a small couch that folds out into a bed, and 4 windows overlooking the street.

There is an upstairs loft (added on to the apartment) which has the comfortable bed and a full bath. The only drawback to this place is the headroom upstairs: my husband is 6'1" and could not stand up in the loft. He was constantly hitting his head on the beams, and while only 5'7", I also hit my head many times and had to be very careful. Also, the loft floor is made of grated metal and is not very comfortable to walk on in bare feet. I could just stand up in the shower, but anyone taller than me would have to sit on the stool provided. The other drawback to the apartment was the lighting: there is a small bedside lamp on one side of the bed, and the lamps elsewhere in the apt. are not very condusive to reading.

Other than those little irritants, though, we really loved the place and would probably stay there again. The location was perfect and the entire ambience is very charming.

Also, I cannot say enough good things about dealing with Tim at RealRome. We had a lot of problems with our itineray and he was extremely flexible and kind. And the owners of the apartment filled the kitchen with bread, jam, milk, OJ, wine and beer - enough food that we didn't have to restock the breakfast provisions for 4-5 days!

http://www.realrome.com/

http://www.realrome.com/proplucesplitlevel.html

The apartment does look great, and I've always thought I'd like to stay in Trastevere. Thanks for sharing!

Hi JoAnne,

I'm so glad that apartment worked out for you! I keep hearing such wonderful comments about RealRome and Tim. I'm vertically challenged so the height thing would not be an issue for me.

How sweet that the owners of the apartment stocked you up so nicely!

Even though I rent through Sleep In Italy I'm tempted to check some of the Real Rome apartments when I'm there in May for future visits.

Thanks for posting your experience as promised & glad you had a good time.

Eileen

JoAnne,

One more thing, do you have any favorite restaurants in Trastevere that you'd like to share?

Thanks, Eileen

I am so glad to read this review. We have rented this apt for beginning of Oct. I love Trastevere, but was a little concerned that it might be too far away from things. I'm also vertically challenged, so that shouldn't be a problem. I'll remember to bring along my little book light. Any recommendations for restaurants in the neighborhood?

Also - from the photos it seems pretty bright? Is this just during the day? How comfy was the sofa - that's probably where I will be sleeping. How is the noise level -gee I can think of a dozen more questions, ha.

I have rented two apartments for our group in September from RealRome - Trastevere Bologna and Portico Reginella. Has anyone had any experience with these?

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I'll try to answer your questions. Also, my apologies to Eileen for calling you "Elaine" in my first post! Yes, I can highly recommend one restaurant in Trastevere and one just over the bridge. The best pasta of our trip was at a place called Alle Fratte di Trastevere. It's just off the main drag that goes across the Ponte Garibaldi. The address is Via delle Fratte di Trastevere 49/50. I had a smoked salmon pasta with vodka and cream, and every bite was pure ambrosia!

Our other favorite restaurant was Da Sergio, just across the Ponte Sisto in the Ghetto. Address: Vicolo delle Grotte 27. The yummiest Pasta Carbonara of our trip! Both of these places are small, family-run restaurants - not fancy but really good food. I found them in TimeOut's small booklet called Rome, Eating & Drinking. It fits in your pocket and has recommendations for all types of dining at all price levels. We tried a couple of other places on our street, and they were perfectly fine, but not outstanding.

As for the apartment, Barb, it was bright if you open up all the shutters and curtains, but can also be very dark. I liked how you could manipulate the window coverings to get just the effect you want. With the outside shutters closed, it was very quiet at night for sleeping. The only noise we heard was from the apartment next door, but it wasn't bad at all. In the mornings, you can hear the shopkeepers opening their doors, etc., but it never bothered me.
If you want to ask me a million questions, you can email me directly at [email protected].

I never slept on the fold-out sofa, so I don't know how comfortable it is. It was too short for me to stretch out on when in its "sofa" mode, but I curled up on it every day for my siesta and was quite happy.

If you're not a tall person, this is an almost perfect apartment. I'll never stay in a hotel again, if I can help it.

Thanks, I think I will make a list and email you directly. I am glad to hear that we made a good choice with this apt.! I can't wait. I can almost taste that pasta!!

Eileen: I'm curious about how you check out apartments when you're in Rome. Do you make an appointment with the agent to actually tour them, or do you just get the addresses and look at them from the street? I'd love to do this myself because I'm kind of a rental place junkie: we live near the ocean in Oregon and I'm always trying to find the perfect beach house to rent. My husband has no patience for this so I have to go out on my own to scout new places. I'd have to do the same in Rome, but it would be a good chance to get away from the joined-at-the-hip-spouse thing that happens on vacations!

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Hi JoAnne,

Sorry I did not see your question before. Yes I would/will contact the agency and ask if I can check it out - they may say no and I'd have to just browse by and look at the area around the apartment.

There is one apartment in Rome that I rented though an agency and now have direct contact with the owner.

I just really enjoy seeing places and tucking them in my memory for future visits. I've been to Rome on my own and with others so certain apartments meet certain needs.

Also I just wanted to say again I'm glad the Luce Split worked out for you and I plan on checking out the restaurant with the pasta in smoked salmon & vodka.

Where are you from in the states? I'm in California - Monterey Bay area.

Best, Eileen

duh - just saw you are from Oregon! Nevermind...

Eileen: Thanks for responding. I'm curious, do you get a better price by renting directly from the apartment owner? That's neat that you developed a relationship with him/her. I had to call the owner of the Luce Split apt. several times, once to see if it was OK to stay another night. It never occured to me to keep her phone number and email address!

Let me know how you like the smoked salmon place. It's owned by a couple and the wife is originally from New Jersey! Really friendly. Don't order the house white wine, though: it was awful. We found that most red house wines were drinkable but the one time we tried white was at this place and it was a mistake. Hopefully, you're not as cheap as we are and order a good bottle of vino with your meals.

JoAnne

Hi JoAnn,

Just wanted to say thank you for the restaurant recommendations. I did indeed try the smoked salmon pasta at Alle Fratte and it was yummo bolto bene! I also had a second of grilled lamb. The owners was you said were kind and friendly too.

Could not get to the other one in the Jewish Ghetto but will try again in October. We did try a somewhat upscale restaurant in area called La Taverna del Ghetto. I had the goulash which was out of this world as was my sister's braised beef in a red sauce. We just wandered in there off the street cold and a bit wet after leaving from the "We are the future concert" at Circus Maximus. It was a nice find! None of us loved the fried artichokes, but glad I tried them.

So far as setting something up with the apartment owner I found it never hurt me to ask if it's a better price/deal going direct with them. This is how I have booked the apartment for my next trip - he is giving it to me at a slight discount because I'll be doing business directly with him.

All for now, will write more about my trip sometime soon I hope & thanks again.

Eileen

Eileen: Sorry I haven't checked this post for a long time so missed your last message. I'm so glad you liked the salmon pasta! It's so great that someone actually went to a place I recommended and what's more, also liked it! Why are you so lucky and get to go to Rome twice in one year?

Hi JoAnn,

People are going to tell us to get a room with all our posts!

Yes thanks again for that recommendation - I have tried to re-create the pasta to no avail, but getting closer however my recreation of "Amatriciciana" is perfection.

So far as luck in going to Rome again in Oct., it's pure straight up luck. I have no idea how I pulled it off. If my boss did not adore Rome as much as he does I'd have a huge problem. He's there now and tonight he took his wife to a romantic restaurant I suggested - they loved it.

This past May I wanted one off my closest friends to join me but she could not, so one day on here there was a post on an air sale and I jumped all over it. Called the friend I said ok - Rome you & me Oct. airfare is $500. I can get a great apartment, I'm going even if you're not so quick yes or no?! She said yes so I'm happy I get to go with my bud.

In May there were 4 of us it was great and I also discovered I prefer going by myself or with just one other person - it gets way too difficult to make decisions with 4 people.

Ok enough typing for one night - I turned the big 40 yesterday went out for a late dinner and I'm beat now!

Ciao, E

Eileen: You'll have to give me your pasta recipe. That was my husband's favorite dish while we were there! You can email me directly at [email protected]. I doubt anyone else is that interested in our conversation, but it printing a recipe might be over the top!

You are indeed very lucky to get such a great deal and be able to go again to Rome. Are you staying in the same apartment?

And Happy Birthday! I can only wish I was turning the big 40 again.

JoAnne