I got it--the airfare I have been waiting three years for--so I am finally heading to Puglia in late May, round trip to Bari... with only 9 days. So, here is my initial plan so I can pick it apart all winter while I plan and consult with DH, who is far too busy paying for airfare to do any trip planning.
We are not masseria types. We like cities or tiny towns with good restaurants. Not really driving types either, but I realize that may be a necessity for part of this trip.
We arrive at Bari at 5pm. While I am more than willing to give Bari a shot, time is too precious on this trip. Should I give in and enjoy Bari this evening, or make my way to somewhere about an hour away? (considering paying for a hotel transfer if possible--no driving on this day - jet lag).
Two alternate itineraries so far:
Bari one night
Matera 2 nights
Lecce 3 nights
Monopoli or Polignano 3 nights

Matera 3 nights (I would like to have time in the first destination to shake off the jet lag and do one of the hiking tours on offer in addition to the sassi tour)
Lecce 3 nights
Monopoli or Polignano 3 nights

I am thinking it will be a little early in the season for coastal towns of the Salento, but we will have the option while staying in Lecce. I am very drawn to Lecce but not as familiar yet with day trip options and worried it may not fit into my usual plan of doing more in a smaller area. I assume we could visit the trulli area from Lecce about as easily as from Monopoli or Polignano. I am thinking Monopoli or Polignano because they are close to the trulli for day trips and also close enough to Bari for our departure time of about noon. We love the sea.

Would love to hear opinions on other towns to consider staying in. There is some appeal in staying in the trulli area to enjoy them after tour buses depart. Also considering towns like Ceglie Messapica and Martina Franca.
Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts. I have loved reading about this region over the years.

My husband and I had a trip to Puglia in October and loved it. We flew into Brindisi and spent four nights in Lecce, then five nights near Ostuni at the Masseria Cervarolo.

It was easy to do day trips from Lecce to coastal towns on the Salento Peninsula. We drove to Santa Maria di Leuca (right at the tip of the peninsula), Gallipoli and Otranto from Lecce.

I think it would be easier to see the trulli area from Monopoli or Polignano. Not impossible from Lecce, but closer from Monopoli.

In Lecce we stayed at Five Rooms B&B and loved it. www.fiverooms.it/en/
I have a good restaurant recommendation if you are interested.

We really loved the Valle d'Itria where our masseria was located, there are lots of very pleasant towns there. We had a great dinner in Ceglie Messapica one night and it is known for it's restaurants. I did not see this town in daylight but the German couple we were with have stayed there and enjoyed it.

We did a day trip to Monopoli from there and enjoyed it. Also did a day trip to Matera and did a tour with Nadia Garlatti; it was a fabulous day and I think three days stay there would be nice. Good food there!

If I had to choose between your two itineraries it would be number two with the stay in Monopoli or somewhere in the Valle d'Itria. Wasn't that fussed on Polignano but was only there one afternoon.

My husband had no trouble driving while there and we were very glad to have our own transport so we could do as we pleased.

Trulli, are basically circular dry stone walls leaning in a bit to make a cone. Much as staying in one is fun, the fun dies after the first 10 minutes. They are all over the place but mainly north of Brinsidi especially up on the Murge (elevated plateau away from the coast). Alberobello has a Trulli quarter which if you really want to see high density Trulli then this is the place.

Lecce is great, especially to wander around, stay in the city centre. Ceglie Messapica and Martina Franca good to visit also look at Locorotondo (not the modern side but the old side is very pretty.

You can catch buses from Bari airport, some links at http://www.aeroportidipuglia.it/defa...dContenuto=935.
http://www.aeroportidipuglia.it/index.asp

Bari is ok but I'd get on if I could

If you are unwilling to drive jet-laggged, by all means get a taxi to take you into Bari, especially since you say you don't mind cities. I think trying to make your way to Matera after 6pm without a car might get too complicated. I could be wrong, but check out the logistics.

In late May, Bari should be at its best. It is a rather sweet natured, sunny seaside town that doesn't seem to have ever joined the 20th c., let alone the 21st. Not hectic at all. That said, it has a sophisticated food scene as well as a great street food scene. I enjoyed a high-end seafood meal at Bacco in Bari. If you don't think you can keep your eyes open and appreciate a high-end seafood meal (not Puglia's cheapest), then check out food blogger Elizabeth Minchilli's Bari recommendations for simpler places and street foods. She is married to a Bari native and frequently visits. Also be sure to check out the street in the centro where housewives still hand-make orechiette and set it out to dry and buy. Minchilli has the details on her blog.

It is worth driving 15 ams outside of Matera to see the Crypt of the Original Sin. You need to make an appointment and have a guide unlock it for you. Details on the web.

On the weekends the Pugliese coast will pop to life if the weather is nice, but you are right that you are early for any real life in the coast tourist towns.

I have heard people say nice things about staying in Trani. (never been.) You can see the attractive low-hill landscape on Ceglie Messapica and the trull on your way back to that area after Lecce or Martina Franca. The small towns there are barely functioning towns. They have been rescued by tourism and second-home purchase, but they might not hold your interest as a "base" since they are tiny.

I agree that trulli are not infinitely interesting. There is no particular reason to stay in a masseria. Roads in Puglia are shoddy in my experience. Sixty million olive trees look kinda the same after a while. The interesting landscapes are the ravines and the murge, and the pretty coast here and there. Otranto might interest you as a day trip from Lecce if the weather is nice. Or Gallipoli so you an see the other side of the boot.

http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome....-buying-pasta/

There's more public transport in the area than what you think at first.

https://www.fseonline.it/DownloadTimetables.aspx

http://www.ferrovienordbarese.it/upl...etwork_reg.jpg

Hi, yorkshire - I think you will love this corner of the world!

I had a much shorter period of time to spend in the area: I spent just 1 night in Matera (wish I'd had two); went on to Trani for a night (gorgeous); then through Alberobello to Lecce for two nights (could easily have used more), and then dinner in Polignano a Mare on my way to Bari before an early morning flight. I used public transportation for all of that.

FWIW, I was glad I chose not to spend a night in one of the trulli districts. I'm very glad I saw the trulli of Alberobello, but my impression was that they can be very touristy. YMMV, or the other areas could be different.

BTW, in Matera, I was very pleased with my stay at the Locanda di San Martino.

Enjoy!

We were there just last summer:
2 nights Matera
2 nights Lecce with day trips to Otranto, S. Cesarea Terme, & Gallipoli
4 nights Polignano with day trips to Ostuni, Alberobello, Locorotundo, Cisternino,
Conversano and Trani

We really liked the area and felt the amount of time in each place was fine. We did have a car, without one you need more time as public transportation just takes longer (at least in this region).

Given your situation I would definitely opt for spending the first night in Bari.

Here's my trip report - http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ast-puglia.cfm

And here's my photos - www.pbase.com/annforcier/italy_-_puglia

This may amuse http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...d-go-wrong.cfm

Thank you so much everyone. I really appreciate the thoughtful feedback on where to base ourselves. It sounds like I have a good plan and just need to decide what place gets 2 nights.
Now I just have to twiddle my thumbs--and practice my Italian--for many months, but surely there will be more to come once I begin looking at hotels and transport links.

Sandralist--I am now fondly recalling one of the meals of my life, Dei Pescatori in Lerici. A feast of seafood is the perfect way to start off a trip and erase memories of airplane food, and making me more enthusiastic about Bari!

Then I hope you saw this:

http://tamarindandthyme.wordpress.co...ing-in-ischia/

One of the foodie treats to be on the lookout for in the region is almonds. The local almonds are delicious, plain or encased in sugary coatings. Obviously the locals also have infinite variations on olives, and the area is also famous for soft cooked fresh cheeses like burrata and outstanding breads (in Basilicata too). People in Bari eat a wonderful baked dish of mussels, rice and potatoes called a "tiedda" that you almost never find any place else. You will also find, in lieu of pasta, cicororia served with pureed beans, but my favorite all time dish is ribbons of pasta tossed with pureed beans and topped with breadcrumbs toasted with garlic.

I liked rich red wines from Basilicata better than what I drank in the Salento. Were I returning to Puglia, I would definitely try to book a meal with Home Food if possible. A lot of the great "cucina povera" is really not considered "restaurant worthy" and remains solely the provence of home cooks, so you've got to get inside people's houses to eat it.

http://www.homefood.it/en/cerca-menu...&button=Search

Oops -- wrong link! I gave you something I spotted today on another message board and copied for a possible future trip!

Here is the link I meant to give you about eating seafood in Bari (not Ischia!)

http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome....escatore-bari/

thanks again--I have been following EM since my foiled trip to Rome. Good food writers are such an excellent resource. Do you think it worthwhile to get the latest slow food guide--or do those things not change that much year to year?