Puglia Itinerary
Jan 4th, 2008, 02:50 PM
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Puglia Itinerary
Hoping for some input perhaps from Flame123 and Skedoo, among any other knowledgeable folks. Husband and I will be in Puglia for 10 nights at the end of April. We are renting a car in Rome and will be returning to Rome at the end of the trip. Presently we are planning 3 nights in Trani, 3 in Polignano di Mare, 3 in Lecce and one in Matera. Opinions? Three nights in Trani too much? Any suggestions about where to stay in Trani would also be appreciated.
Jan 4th, 2008, 09:16 PM
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May I suggest you to decrease the nights in Trani from 3 to 2 and increase in Matera from 1 to 2 ?!
In Trani I suggest to stay at the hotel SAN PAOLO AL CONVENTO, an ancient convento on the dock of Trani: very charming.
When in Lecce, please enjoy gelato at "Alvino" in the most famous square of Lecce: Piazza Sant'Oronzo.
Buon viaggio, ciao.
Vincenzo
In Trani I suggest to stay at the hotel SAN PAOLO AL CONVENTO, an ancient convento on the dock of Trani: very charming.
When in Lecce, please enjoy gelato at "Alvino" in the most famous square of Lecce: Piazza Sant'Oronzo.
Buon viaggio, ciao.
Vincenzo
Jan 5th, 2008, 08:55 AM
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Thank you. I have sent an email to the hotel requesting information. However, reviews of this hotel on TripAdvisor indicate there is no parking and one traveler even had their car stolen while parked on the street outside the hotel. I am afraid we need a place with parking. Any other suggestions?
Jan 5th, 2008, 10:05 AM
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I don't have the answers to your questions but wanted to suggest a hotel in Polignano a Mare where I stayed last April. The hotel's name is Hotel Ristorante Grota Palazese. You can check out their website at www.grottapalazzese.it.
The accomodations were good, and the view of the sea was spectacular.At that time I paid E70.00 per night during the week.
The accomodations were good, and the view of the sea was spectacular.At that time I paid E70.00 per night during the week.
Jan 6th, 2008, 04:56 AM
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Hey Marta,
I see that you are basically doing almost the same trip that we did in May 2007. Have you read my trip report? I can very highly recommend the B&B I stayed in Lecce. The places I stayed in Trani and Conversano were also very nice.
We did not feel like 3 nights in Trani were too much, especially since if you are driving from Rome you will basically spend the first day traveling and the first night there only having a dinner and sleeping. Matera was a wonderful day trip and I did not feel it necessary to spend a night there, although it could have been interesting.
The hotel San Paolo in Trani - I saw this hotel and it is quite lovely and right on the waterfront. But it was too expensive for us and so we opted for the small B&B we stayed in. We also parked the car outside on the street, no other option, right in front of the B&B building and had no problems.
Another place in Trani that we were contemplating but waited too long and was no longer available when we finally decided was Domus Angela B&B. They have only two rooms and I think there are good reviews about it.
Here is a link :
http://www.domusangela.it/en/home_en.asp
If you have any other questions I would be happy to help. Oh and by the way, the food in Puglia is to die for !!!!!
I see that you are basically doing almost the same trip that we did in May 2007. Have you read my trip report? I can very highly recommend the B&B I stayed in Lecce. The places I stayed in Trani and Conversano were also very nice.
We did not feel like 3 nights in Trani were too much, especially since if you are driving from Rome you will basically spend the first day traveling and the first night there only having a dinner and sleeping. Matera was a wonderful day trip and I did not feel it necessary to spend a night there, although it could have been interesting.
The hotel San Paolo in Trani - I saw this hotel and it is quite lovely and right on the waterfront. But it was too expensive for us and so we opted for the small B&B we stayed in. We also parked the car outside on the street, no other option, right in front of the B&B building and had no problems.
Another place in Trani that we were contemplating but waited too long and was no longer available when we finally decided was Domus Angela B&B. They have only two rooms and I think there are good reviews about it.
Here is a link :
http://www.domusangela.it/en/home_en.asp
If you have any other questions I would be happy to help. Oh and by the way, the food in Puglia is to die for !!!!!
Jan 7th, 2008, 08:24 AM
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Hi, MartaD -
How long to spend in each of these wonderful places depends on what you want to see and do, but I tend to agree with vincenzod that adding a day to Matera would make sense. There is a lot to see there! I'd probably pull that day from Polignano a Mare.
When in Polignano a Mare, I definitely encourage you to eat a dinner at the Grotta Palezzese - unbelievable!
Three nights in Trani might be about right - 1st night after long drive; one day to see Trani (especially its cathedral) and one day to see Castel del Monti.
Hope that helps!
How long to spend in each of these wonderful places depends on what you want to see and do, but I tend to agree with vincenzod that adding a day to Matera would make sense. There is a lot to see there! I'd probably pull that day from Polignano a Mare.
When in Polignano a Mare, I definitely encourage you to eat a dinner at the Grotta Palezzese - unbelievable!
Three nights in Trani might be about right - 1st night after long drive; one day to see Trani (especially its cathedral) and one day to see Castel del Monti.
Hope that helps!
Jan 7th, 2008, 02:58 PM
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Thank you all for your responses. I have booked accommodations in each location except Trani. Flame, the Domus Angela looks very appealing. I did email them and they have a room available. However, they want "earnest money" as they call it, in the amount of 60 Euro toward the room charge and they won't accept any payment other than bank wire transfer. My bank wants $52 US in addition to the 60 Euro to wire the money. That's too much, in my opinion. I have sent a reply email asking about mailing a check (since they clearly don't want to deal with credit cards) but I am not optimistic. I may try the B&B in which you stayed next. I did read your trip report and enjoyed it very much.
Jan 7th, 2008, 08:34 PM
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Marta,
I agree with your opinion about the bank wire transfer being too costly and the limitations one has when trying to book small places. One good thing about the place I stayed, they did not ask for any money up front before we arrived. When we were there, we had to pay cash for the three nights we stayed and that was it. Try them, they were fine.
I agree with your opinion about the bank wire transfer being too costly and the limitations one has when trying to book small places. One good thing about the place I stayed, they did not ask for any money up front before we arrived. When we were there, we had to pay cash for the three nights we stayed and that was it. Try them, they were fine.
Jan 8th, 2008, 11:01 AM
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Flame,
Much to my surprise, Domus Angela agreed to let us pay in full upon our arrival. We look forward to our stay there. We also plan to follow up on some of the wonderful places where you ate during your trip. I am also hoping to have lots of opportunities to practice my Italian. I am reasonably good at reading and writing, but struggle with understanding rapid speech. We'll see. I hope to make some progress. In the meantime, I will reread your trip report!
Much to my surprise, Domus Angela agreed to let us pay in full upon our arrival. We look forward to our stay there. We also plan to follow up on some of the wonderful places where you ate during your trip. I am also hoping to have lots of opportunities to practice my Italian. I am reasonably good at reading and writing, but struggle with understanding rapid speech. We'll see. I hope to make some progress. In the meantime, I will reread your trip report!
Jan 8th, 2008, 09:22 PM
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Marta,
How wonderful!! While I doubt that I may re-visit this lovely area soon, I would love to read your report about Domus Angela (and the rest of your experiences).
As I said before, food in this area is fabulous, especially if you love fish and seafood. People are so so friendly and helpful. And I also loved practicing my Italian, all you need to do is say a few words and they are yours.
Have a great time and report back soon.
How wonderful!! While I doubt that I may re-visit this lovely area soon, I would love to read your report about Domus Angela (and the rest of your experiences).
As I said before, food in this area is fabulous, especially if you love fish and seafood. People are so so friendly and helpful. And I also loved practicing my Italian, all you need to do is say a few words and they are yours.
Have a great time and report back soon.
Jan 12th, 2008, 10:43 AM
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Hi Marta, could you please tell me which place you booked in Pogliano a mare? I ask because when I wrote to the Grotta Palazzese, their prices quoted had doubled from Ciccio's experience.
In fact, if you'd be so kind as to list all of the hotels because I'm trying to gather info on Puglia. Thanks in advance!
In fact, if you'd be so kind as to list all of the hotels because I'm trying to gather info on Puglia. Thanks in advance!
Jan 13th, 2008, 04:59 PM
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I need some input, too! Have enjoyed reading all about Puglia from all of you. We are going the beginning of April. I need to decide on 4 things:
1.Where to stay in Matera...am leaning toward the Sant'Angelo. Is the Palace hotel too modern and not local enough?
2. Whether to stay in Conversano or Polignano a Mare?
3. Whether to stay in Ostuni or Martina Franca
4. Trani:Is there a secure place to park to compensate for the parking problems at the San Paolo al Convento. How about the Regia? found it in the 06 red guide.
Thanks so much!
1.Where to stay in Matera...am leaning toward the Sant'Angelo. Is the Palace hotel too modern and not local enough?
2. Whether to stay in Conversano or Polignano a Mare?
3. Whether to stay in Ostuni or Martina Franca
4. Trani:Is there a secure place to park to compensate for the parking problems at the San Paolo al Convento. How about the Regia? found it in the 06 red guide.
Thanks so much!
Jan 13th, 2008, 11:28 PM
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In Matera there are two lovely places: Hotel Sassi (www.hotelsassi.it) and, very charateristic and a bit less cheap, LOCANDA DI SAN MARTINO in the Sassi; I suggest you to reserve here and do not miss it: it is unique! (www.locandadisanmartino.it).
It became hotel only four years ago.
In Ostuni there are several very good places to sleep, and dine, also.
MASSERIA RASCINA (www.masseriarascina.it.) anyway closer to Cisternino than to Ostuni.
MASSERIA LAMIOLA PICCOLA (www.lamiolapiccola.com) where, believe me, you should go to dine even more than to sleep as its restaurant is very good.
Armando and Rosalba, husband and wife, are the owners of IL FRANTOIO (www.masseriailfrantoio.it) a very charming place where to sleep is very sweet and almost unique. Among the 8 rooms, if available choose between Glicine and Gigli. You will stay in Paradise there, believe me.
If you prefer the center of Ostuni, whose nickname for the local people is "terra" literary meaning the ground, then I suggest you HOTEL LA TERRA (www.laterrahotel.it)
It opened only 3 years ago and it is unique, believe me !
Only 17 rooms, each one different and this wonderful white color, the color of Ostuni, so strong and sweet, my God !
In this wonderful hotel also its restaurant is very good: San Pietro.
Only weakness of the hotel (and of restaurant, also) is the price, a bit expensive.
Anyway I have a report about Ostuni and feel free to ask me if you want but, you have to know, I wrote ii in Italian.
Ciao.
Vincenzo
It became hotel only four years ago.
In Ostuni there are several very good places to sleep, and dine, also.
MASSERIA RASCINA (www.masseriarascina.it.) anyway closer to Cisternino than to Ostuni.
MASSERIA LAMIOLA PICCOLA (www.lamiolapiccola.com) where, believe me, you should go to dine even more than to sleep as its restaurant is very good.
Armando and Rosalba, husband and wife, are the owners of IL FRANTOIO (www.masseriailfrantoio.it) a very charming place where to sleep is very sweet and almost unique. Among the 8 rooms, if available choose between Glicine and Gigli. You will stay in Paradise there, believe me.
If you prefer the center of Ostuni, whose nickname for the local people is "terra" literary meaning the ground, then I suggest you HOTEL LA TERRA (www.laterrahotel.it)
It opened only 3 years ago and it is unique, believe me !
Only 17 rooms, each one different and this wonderful white color, the color of Ostuni, so strong and sweet, my God !
In this wonderful hotel also its restaurant is very good: San Pietro.
Only weakness of the hotel (and of restaurant, also) is the price, a bit expensive.
Anyway I have a report about Ostuni and feel free to ask me if you want but, you have to know, I wrote ii in Italian.
Ciao.
Vincenzo
Jan 14th, 2008, 08:43 AM
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Pilates and others,
We are staying:
1. In Trani at Domus Angela;
2. In Polignano A Mare at Hotel Covo dei Saraceni;
3. In Lecce at Centro Storico B & B.
4. In Matera at Hotel Sant'Angelo.
Hotel Sant'Angelo and Covo dei Saraceni are "splurge" hotels for us. The other two are more modestly priced.
Good luck with your bookings. Things do fill up quickly.
We are staying:
1. In Trani at Domus Angela;
2. In Polignano A Mare at Hotel Covo dei Saraceni;
3. In Lecce at Centro Storico B & B.
4. In Matera at Hotel Sant'Angelo.
Hotel Sant'Angelo and Covo dei Saraceni are "splurge" hotels for us. The other two are more modestly priced.
Good luck with your bookings. Things do fill up quickly.
Jan 14th, 2008, 02:27 PM
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Thanks all! No one mentioned Martina Franca, so maybe not the best choice. Any comments? I'd love to hear from Vincenzo ( wow, so many ideas...do you live there?) in Italian, as I am practising my Italian and it would be fun to try. Thanks, Marta D, I'll check out your Trani choice.
Jan 15th, 2008, 07:17 AM
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Thanks Vincenzo and Marta. I bookmarked a couple more based on your suggestions.
It was a surprise to me to read that the rooms are filling quickly....in <i>April</i>. Any particular town more crowded that the others? The only reason why I ask is because we don't usually book rooms in advance. Instead I bring a "fact sheet" on each town that we plan on visiting, including sights, restaurants and hotels. Sounds like I better have a list of half a dozen hotels per town.
Buona vacanza, Marta! I sure hope you write and share your experience upon your return. I'd love to read all about it!
It was a surprise to me to read that the rooms are filling quickly....in <i>April</i>. Any particular town more crowded that the others? The only reason why I ask is because we don't usually book rooms in advance. Instead I bring a "fact sheet" on each town that we plan on visiting, including sights, restaurants and hotels. Sounds like I better have a list of half a dozen hotels per town.
Buona vacanza, Marta! I sure hope you write and share your experience upon your return. I'd love to read all about it!
Jan 16th, 2008, 05:08 AM
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Hello,
I see that a lot of people have already responded here but I recently came back from 2 weeks in the South of Italy and one week in Puglia.
Here is one thing to keep in mind: Puglia is demanding and doesn't make it obvious where to go and what to do.
What I found was that the country side was extraordinary. It was gorgeous. But the cities were not what I expected. A lot of the cities are surrounded by overdeveloped, 1960s-esc concrete buildings. The old towns are great but after 2 hours you have circled them 3 times.
I would have planned my trip a little differently. Trani in my opinion is overrated. We spent 2 hours there and it was fine but not, in my opinon, what it is cracked up to be. And as for Polignano a Mare, I had booked 2 nights there and left after 1. I hated the hotel and the town was cute in the historic centre, but nothing that could fill our time. Plus while everything is close the driving is exhausting.
If I had to do it again, I would have spent more time in the countryside, really taking in the gorgeous landscape and staying at farmhouses. We stayed at one farmhouse which i HIGHLY recommend near Trani actually. It is about an hour away and it is called Lama di Luna. GORGEOUS. I would have dedicated a week to just being on the farm if I could have. They have a website. Check it out. And for the best meal EVER, go to Antichi Sapori in Montegrosso, which is where Lama di Luna is. I had a 2 Michelin starred dinner the night before and this meal in this small restaurant blew it away.
I liked Lecce, but I would make sure you are staying in the centre. We stayed just outside and it was a real hassle to drive in and out everyday. We wasted time with traffic and parking. Next time, that is one city I would stay in.
We also really like Alberbello and the neighbouring towns. I would suggest stopping there and staying in a farmhouse around there too.
Anyway, these are only my suggestions but again, I felt the coutryside far outweighed the cities. The farmhouses are really quite luxurious and I woudl recommend them highly.
Have fun!
I see that a lot of people have already responded here but I recently came back from 2 weeks in the South of Italy and one week in Puglia.
Here is one thing to keep in mind: Puglia is demanding and doesn't make it obvious where to go and what to do.
What I found was that the country side was extraordinary. It was gorgeous. But the cities were not what I expected. A lot of the cities are surrounded by overdeveloped, 1960s-esc concrete buildings. The old towns are great but after 2 hours you have circled them 3 times.
I would have planned my trip a little differently. Trani in my opinion is overrated. We spent 2 hours there and it was fine but not, in my opinon, what it is cracked up to be. And as for Polignano a Mare, I had booked 2 nights there and left after 1. I hated the hotel and the town was cute in the historic centre, but nothing that could fill our time. Plus while everything is close the driving is exhausting.
If I had to do it again, I would have spent more time in the countryside, really taking in the gorgeous landscape and staying at farmhouses. We stayed at one farmhouse which i HIGHLY recommend near Trani actually. It is about an hour away and it is called Lama di Luna. GORGEOUS. I would have dedicated a week to just being on the farm if I could have. They have a website. Check it out. And for the best meal EVER, go to Antichi Sapori in Montegrosso, which is where Lama di Luna is. I had a 2 Michelin starred dinner the night before and this meal in this small restaurant blew it away.
I liked Lecce, but I would make sure you are staying in the centre. We stayed just outside and it was a real hassle to drive in and out everyday. We wasted time with traffic and parking. Next time, that is one city I would stay in.
We also really like Alberbello and the neighbouring towns. I would suggest stopping there and staying in a farmhouse around there too.
Anyway, these are only my suggestions but again, I felt the coutryside far outweighed the cities. The farmhouses are really quite luxurious and I woudl recommend them highly.
Have fun!
