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Provence Itinerary - Advice Needed

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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 04:10 PM
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Provence Itinerary - Advice Needed

I will be going to France for 14 days (not including the 2 traveling days) in May. This trip is mainly for Provence. I will be flying into CDG, and plan to take the TGV direct to Avignon from airport, arriving late afternoon. Tentative plan so far:

4 nights (3 days) in Avignon area (stay in Villeneuve-les-Avignon) to see Avignon, Pont du Gard, Uzes, and possibly Nimes.
I will pick up a car probably the 2nd or 3rd day.

2 nights in Vaison-la-Romaine. Plan to drive to Orange to see Roman theatre, then on to Vaison. I'm interested in Vaison for the Roman ruins, and some of the sites in that area.

3 nights near Gordes to see the Luberon villages, Senanque abbey, etc.

Then 5 nights near St. Remy for Alpilles, Arles, Les Baux, etc. and possibly the Camargue. Then TGV back to CDG late afternoon, spend night there for 11:00 A.M. flight.

I'll be solo, and want to have a car, but don't want to drive long distances and back alone, so that's why I decided on 4 different bases.

However, I'm trying to figure out how to also work in Lyon for a couple of days!
It seems more logical to go to Lyon first, since the train trip would be shorter, then train to Avignon from there. Do I need 2 full days in Lyon, to do it justice? That would mean shortening Avignon area by 2 days-
probably skipping Nimes. But maybe I'll have time for that during the St. Remy phase?

I keep going back and forth about Lyon, and want to make a decision once and for all, so I can go on with my life! I'm so excited about Provence, and really want to savor all the wonderful things there. I'm sure I'll love everything about it. I can go to Lyon during another trip, but who knows?? Help!!
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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 04:22 PM
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Two days in Lyon makes more sense to me than four in Avignon. Also, Nimes is not that far from St. Remy so it would be pretty easy to move it to that segment of the trip.

You're in a wonderful area of France. No matter what you do, it will be full of beautiful sights and lots of history. We stay near Charleval and find it an easy area for driving so don't worry about that part of it. You won't have the mega tourist hassle in May either.

Have a great trip.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 04:34 PM
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Stopping in Lyon should work very nicely, as I think you could cover Avignon fully in a day and a half; the city is quite compact. I think it might make sense to stop first in Lyon, then head down to St.-Rémy and cover that area, including Nimes. Then you could drive over to the Lubéron, finally finishing up at Avignon before your return trip to CdG, thus avoiding some back-tracking.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 04:44 PM
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Thanks for the input! I think I might be sorry to miss Lyon, so will probably do that. I wasn't going to spend that much time in Avignon itself, but just use it as a base for Pont du Gard and Nimes, too. But St. Remy will be Ok for that too, I suppose. I could cut out those 2 nights in Vaison, too. That's probably too far for an easy daytrip, though. It sounds like such an interesting town, with the Roman ruins, plus medieval village - and supposedly a marvelous market on Tuesdays. Any opinions on Vaison?
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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 05:04 PM
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The Nimes Roman theatre , as Arles are better than Orange IMO and also the towns have more to offer. I stayed two weeks in Villeneuve one year. Be sure to see the famous garden there. You can take a bus by the fountain #52? or the boat by the tower or walk across the bridge as I did often to save money.
The ruins of Glanum outside St Remy are a must stop if you like the ruins.
Vaison in the old city has the Hotel Bellfroi(Sp?0 we stopped there for a drink from their terrace with a great view.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 05:15 PM
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Cigale, I've read some previous posts of yours,and you stayed at Le Priere in Villeneuve, didn't you? That's where I'm planning to stay there. It really sounds nice, and their single room isn't too expensive. Did you like it?
I also made a reservation at the Beffroi in Vaison for those 2 nights.
I might cut that down to 1 night if I decide to go to Lyon. In a way, I hate to cut down Le Priere. What do you think, since you stayed there? Staying in one place for 2 weeks like you did sounds very relaxing!! And you didn't have to worry about a car, either, which sounds even more relaxing!
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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 05:51 PM
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YES, YES, I stayed in the original building in the oval room that overlooks the dining terrace. I LOVED IT. There's a library, an herb and vegetable garden to wander in , besides the pool if you feel like staying around for the day. You know "Mistral's Daughter"the book and mini series is mentioned and photographed there. Mde Mille is very nice, fresh flowers in all the rooms. It's expensive, but being alone I felt safer staying in a better place when alone. The food is great. It has one of the best flea markets on a saturday morn. I also took the Tgv there(I don't drive)
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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 06:06 PM
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Thanks, Cigale - it sounds GREAT! It also had very good reviews on www.france.com (the reservation site that has all the reviews from people who stay at their hotels). I'm getting so excited about this trip.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 06:07 PM
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And I forgot - I must re-read Mistral's Daughter!
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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 07:01 PM
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We stayed at the Beffroi in Vaison and really enjoyed it. We were there on a Monday night and really enjoyed the Tuesday morning market. The Roman ruins were very interesting - includes a museum. We were only there the one night (arrived before noon on Monday - left before noon on Tuesday), and felt that we had about the right amount of time. We drove from St. Remy to Vaison and stopped in several villages on the way to Vaison. We had seen Arles and Pont du Gard while staying in St. Remy. After leaving Vaison, we stopped in Isle for lunch on Tuesday, shopped awhile and drove on to Lourmarin for three days in the Luberon.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2004 | 07:49 PM
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Thanks, blh, for your input on Vaison.I had been wondering if 1 night there would really be enough. I will be driving from Avignon probably, and have reservations for Sunday and Monday nights. If I change my plans, will just stay the Monday night. I will have plenty of time for the market on Tuesday AM, and then drive on down to Gordes through some of the other villages. I might just skip Orange (I was planning to go there before Vaison), especially if I get to Nimes.
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Old Feb 4th, 2004 | 02:05 PM
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We spent 10 days in Provence last Sept. Two nights near Cassis in a country B&B, Mas de Coupier, http://www.guideweb.com/provence/bb/coupier/indexa.html
- a must see area in my opinion. Such a beautiful seaside setting. Then on to Vaison (stopping at Orange on the way to see the Roman theater, one of the best) In Vaison i highly recommend a stay at L'Eviche, http://avignon-et-provence.com/eveche/gb/index.html
- the most amazing B&B (more like a small hotel) right in the old city. From there we toured a vast area as everything is quite close together. The "back road" drive to Gordes suggested by our host in Vaison with a stop at the Abbey was perfect. In Gordes we stayed at Mas de la Beaum http://www.labeaume.com/page1anglais.html It is across the valley from Gordes with an incredible night view of the old city and marvelous restaurant recommendation from our hostess - Chez Gouin in Coustellet. This B&B (again like a small hotel) has been featured in many magazines of decor of Provence. Then on to Avignon with two nights right in the old city at a spectacular B&B that is a private home - rooftop pool and garden, truly takes your breath. It is Villa Agape,http://avignon-et-provence.com/bb/vi.../gb/index.html We had some of the best food here (don't miss La Fourchette) and tours to St. Remy and even the Camargue (its an easy drive). Last it was back to Marsielles for one last night before flying out. Great restaruant in Marseilles, Chez Fon Fon. Provence is such a beautiful area. It was quite easy driving and having local hosts really made our stay special. Enjoy.
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Old Feb 4th, 2004 | 02:28 PM
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We spent 2 nights at Le Priuré in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon and enjoyed it a lot. It's a good base for sightseeing on that side of the Rhône, what with the Fort St.-André and the Charterhouse. It's also an easy run up to Châteauneuf-du-Pape and all the little domaines that invite you to taste their well known wine. (Don't miss the whites, often overlooked but excellent.)
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Old Feb 4th, 2004 | 04:00 PM
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TC, thanks for your post. Your itinerary looks really great, alot of what I want to do. Except I don't think I'll make it as far south as Cassis. I'm going to check out your B&B in Gordes. I was thinking of the Mas des Romarins there, but I'm not really sure, so appreciate other suggestions.
Anyone ever stayed at Des Romarins?

For Avignon, I'm sure I want to stay at Le Priere in Villeneuve. And thank you,Underhill, for endorsing it, along with Cigale. I thought that looked good for the western Rhone sites I want to see (and I can get into Avignon easily before I rent the car). I can take the train from there to Arles and Nimes if I want. I'd like some days without a car, as that gets quite expensive for one person! Planning all this is half the fun - but I will be relieved when I actually make up my mind. Especially about working in Lyon at beginning (or end).
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Old Feb 4th, 2004 | 07:25 PM
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Sue, Unless you are already locked into your stay in Vaison, do consider L'Eviche. I say this because Jean-Loup and Aude were the absolute most wonderful couple and their home is amazing. (The web site photos really don't do it justice) They had so much great information about the area, excellent restaurant recommendations, routes to drive that were away from the crowds. Their B&B is located at the top of the hill in the old city overlooking the "new" city. Our room was on the top floor with its own sitting room and balcony overlooking the old city. The stars were spectacular at night. I took many, many beautiful photos in the old city - it has been restored by artists with tons of flowers and fountains. We so enjoy Jean-Loup's company - listening to opera, browsing their art gallery and library, delicious breakfasts in the little enclosed courtyard overlooking the city.

I will also say that our least favorite place was Gordes - the city, not the B&B. Mas de la Beaum was spectacular, but we tired of Gordes very quickly. You can see it all in an afternoon and, honestly, its very touristy. Do plan lots of other destinations from there if you're staying 3 nights.
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Old Feb 5th, 2004 | 05:53 PM
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TC, I checked out the L'Eveche website, and it does look gorgeous! I think I could cancel the Beffroi without any problem. However, the L'Eveche might already be booked up, because that is a French holiday weekend. I have reservations for Sunday and Monday nites, and the Beffroi first told me they were booked, until I said I wanted a single, and they had that. But I think I will try.

Also, I've heard from others that Gordes is a bit of a disappointment. I picked it out because it seems to be pretty central for driving around the Luberon. Was it? I definitely have plenty of places I want to drive to from there, and don't plan to be sticking to Gordes. I saw a B&B in Lourmarin that looks really nice, but that might be too far south for a base.
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Old Feb 5th, 2004 | 06:09 PM
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When alot of places say in "gordes" that doesn't mean you are in the village, you maybe in the burb of it for instance like Imberts, where a restaurant is that I like. Imberts is outside of Gordes. When you have a car, these places are easy to get to.
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Old Feb 5th, 2004 | 06:21 PM
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Old Feb 5th, 2004 | 06:57 PM
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Sue4 - we stayed three nights in Lourmarin and toured all the Luberon villages. We felt that it was very centrally located and easy to drive into - not on a hill like so many of the villages - most are somewhat difficult to drive in. There was a good Friday morning market - many restaurants and shops - great for walking. We were glad we chose Lourmarin!
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Old Feb 9th, 2004 | 11:11 AM
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Sue -

Your itinerary sounds excellent although I'd be tempted to leave Lyon for another trip as there is more than enough to see and do in Provence. It's been three years now since we moved here and it seems like every day there is something new to discover...

If you are looking for a great B&B near Gordes, I can highly recommend Le Mas Perreal - which is only natural as my wife and I are the innkeepers!

In any case, if you need any specific help or recommendations, don't hesitate. It is always a pleasure to introduce people to what is really and truly a beautiful little corner of the world!
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