I'm getting some very negative vibes about a visit to Carcassone, - to touristy, commercial etc. but is it worth the visit? We will be traveling west from Arles in early October on our way to Cadaques. Can anyone suggest some interesting alternative options. We have included the Pont de Gard, and Colliure, but I'm sure there's lots of wisdom out there. We are driving, so the field is open.

Like the MSM, Carcassone seems to be from a fairy tale on the approach, but, once there, the crowds and tourists shop destroy that feeling, still it is worth seeing being a restored 13th century marvel.

The Pont du Gard is amazing. Luckily, I was there 25 years ago when you could still walk across the top.

I like Carcassonne just fine. I've been twice, most recently last summer.

I live in Canada where there are not a lot of medieval castles around. So that's an attraction right there. Yes, it's been rebuilt but if it hadn't it would have been carted away for building stone by now. And yes, it will be busy as will any tourist destination be in France, especially in summer. At the time of your proposed visit I bet you'll find it wonderfully free of tourist hordes.

Get there early or late and you'll be surprised... the chateau itself won't be open but the Cite is never closed.

Rob

Hi; The approach to Carcassone is incredible. Inside the Cite is incredible. For us[ being tourists] we loved the Cite. Been there twice overnight, staying once inside and once outside the walls. But your visit in October will have fewer tourists. GO. Dick

I love it when people say that a 13th-century restored intact walled town is too touristy. Of course it's touristy - it's a marvel and people come from all over to see what they can't see anywhere else. If history doesn't interest you, by all means skip it. And there's no pressure to hang around. We've been many times, and we usually spend no more than a half-day there. If it's on your route, I'd say at least satisfy curiosity and stop for a bit. I really can't imagine anyone passing by it on the Autoroute du Sud and not being totally bowled over and wanting to go check it out.

If you're traveling from Arles and won't have already included it in your itinerary, I highly recommend at least a drive through the Camargue with a stop in Aigues-Mortes.

Hi; I agree with StCirq. We are the tourists. Crowds of people add to the experence of travel. Meeting people from other countries is very rewarding. Dick

>> I really can't imagine anyone passing by it on the Autoroute du Sud and not being totally bowled over and wanting to go check it out.<<<

Yep - no way you'll view this fortress from the Autoroute and NOT go in - just too tempting. It's a quick in-out from the Autoroute. Max 3 hr visit, IMO.

Stu Dudley

Hi
Carcassone is truly unique and worth a visit but to really enjoy the time spend the night inside the walls. We were there in 2003 and I do not know if it still holds but you were not able to drive inside unless you were staying there, and even then, not before 6pm. We stayed at Hotel Le Donjon which had been just taken over by Best Western and had secured parking. If you get there before 6pm you park in a special lot and I think the hotel moves your car inside. However, we got there just after and my husband almost divorced me on our anniversary! Then they let you drive yourself inside, be sure to tuck your mirrors! Tourists were not moving, we finally stopped at a restaurant- he was sure we were driving wrong, you could barely open the door because the coblestone street is so narrow, but the waitress chased me back out and moved all the tourists for us. We checked in and did a wonderful tour of the wall and had a great dinner outdoors. This was in Sept and most tourists did not stay late. Then in the morning we took in the shopping and churches and drove out at our leisure.
Pont du Gard is a great place to see as well.
From Carcassone we went to the Dordogne and stayed at La Roque-Gageac as a base for Sarlat and the prehistoric cave tour which amazed us. We all left the 1 hour tour with a new appreciation for prehistoric man. From there it was up to Chenonceaux with a stop in between at Oradour sur glan the town destroyed by the Nazis. France is so diverse and such an amazing country, we also visited Mont St Michel, the D day beaches and museum and stayed near there at a really interesting 13 century farm house that is now a hotel.
You will have a wonderful trip, the hardest part is time constraints trying to fit in all the great places.

OK I'm convinced! We actually have reservations for three days inside the city walls, but I think we'll modify those. One night will be sufficient. So the plans is to arrive mid afternoon, see the view at night which I understand is awesome, plan to tour the cite at the crack of dawn and then "scadattel" by early afternoon. Any rec's for a great place to eat? Would love to feel the atmosphere within the city wall at night. Has anyone been to Renne Chateau? Also, any other rec's for our travels to Colliure? Many thanks to all for your expertise.

One night is enough to capture the place after the day trippers have left.

We stayed in this area for 2 weeks, and never ran out of things to do. I’ll describe 3 separate driving & sightseeing itineraries, which you can follow or combine anyway you like. Roussillon is a very scenic area – at the foot of the Pyrenees and next to the Mediterranean. However, there are a few sections that are not as scenic as the remainder of this region. Look at the #344 map. The rectangle east of the A9, north of the D618, and south of the D627 from the A9 #40 exit to Leucate is an area that gets some sprawl from Perpignan, and along the coast there are a lot of mass vacation developments that are not real pretty (there’s even a nudist resort). The beach is very nice white sand, but the hundreds of vacation homes, campgrounds, and high-rises, are not what I enjoy experiencing. Perpignan is certainly worth visiting, however. Also, Amelie les Bains on the Tech river is not worth a visit (I was pre-warned of this by my internet friend & confirmed by us when we drove through Amelie many times).

Mount Canigou*** can be seen from almost anywhere in this region – at least it seems that way. You won’t have any trouble spotting it.

Route #1 – the Tech river area.
Find le Perthus on the map – it’s on the France/Spain border. In fact, one side of the street is in Spain & the other in France. The Spain side has a lot of discount shops, but the “scene” is horrible – I would not waste any valuable vacation time trying to save a few Euros on cigarettes, wine, trinkets, etc. Look up “Boulou” in the GG and take drive #2. As you approach le Perthus, there is a parking lot on your left just before you hit the traffic & pedestrian snarled main section of the town. Turn left just past the parking lot & take this drive #2 east as far as you can. It’s marked as the D71. We drove it twice – in the morning & again in the evening (the morning sights were better because of the position of the sun). If it’s a clear day, there are spectacular views on this drive. It is also a popular place for picnics. Return to le Perthus, and then to Ceret on the N9 and D618. Visit Ceret*. There is a famous Musee d’Art modern**, but since we’re not modern art fans, we didn’t visit it. The town, however, is worth a stroll around. There are some nice plane trees in town, with some outdoor cafes. Saturday is market day. Ceret is the center of the cherry growing region, and you’ll see dozens of stands selling cherries in late May/early June.

Look up “Vallespir*” in the Green Guide, and take the D115 west along the Tech River. Just past Arles, you’ll see signs for the Gorges de la Fou** (in the GG under “Arles sur Tech”). Park the car in the lot & walk along a metal grate suspended above this gorge. The gorge is only about 3 ft wide in spots – it’s an easy & interesting exploration. Return to your car & head east on the D115 for about 1 K & then turn left (north) on the D43 at Arles. This route is described as “Round tour west of Arles” under “Arles” in the GG. The first part goes through some forests, but later there are nice views. When the D43 hits Corsavy, take the D43 north (departing from the itinerary in the GG). After about 8 K or so, turn the car around & retrace your route – there are some very nice views from this road. When you get back to Corsavy, turn right on the D44 and continue on the GG route to le Tech. This will join the D115 west (very pretty in this section) to Prats de Mollo* (see GG). Park the car & explore Prats – follow the walk described in the GG.

After visiting Prats, continue west on the D115 to the Col d’Ares. At the Col, turn the car around & retrace your route east towards Arles – this is a pretty drive. About 4 K before reaching Arles, take the D3 south towards Coustouges (see GG under Arles). Continue past the town of Coustouges into Spain on the D3 which becomes the GI503 in Spain. My internet friend who lives in Roussillon suggested this drive – it’s quite pretty. Continue on the GI503 until it hits the GI504 & take this north to the #2 entrance on the A7 freeway, where you will return to France. Don’t take the N9 into France unless you like lots of stop & go traffic at Le Perthus.

Thursday

Route #2 – cute village, scenic gorges, wonderful countryside, and Cathars castles.
This is an ambitious itinerary, so get an early start. If you’re staying in Collioure, drive toward Ceret on the D114, D618, and then D115. Take the D615 north of Ceret towards Thuir. Use the map & get on the D48 west to Castelneu+. Explore Castelnou (GG under Perpignan). One of my guidebooks described it as “St Paul de Vence without the tourists”. It’s a cute town. After a visit, take the D48 west and then the D2 to Ille-sur-Tet. Continue past Ille-sur-Tet on the D2 and when it crosses over the N116, you will approach les Orgues+. There is a picture of les Orgues in my Michelin Guide under Perpignan. You may have to take the D21 a bit towards Belesta to get some good views. Turn around on the D21 and then take the D2 back to Ille and get on the N116 heading west (you will have to go through Ille a little to do this – follow the signs to Prades). Continue west to Prades, taking a picture of Eus if you have not done so yet. Take the loop north around Prades and then take the D619 north. Look up Fenouilledes** in the Green Guide. Follow the described route from Prades to St Paul – it’s quite picturesque. When you intersect the D117 at St Paul, take the D117 west – this road is quite scenic too. At Axat, take the D118 south through the Gorges de St Georges*. When you get as far as the D16 fork near Rouze, turn the car around and retrace your route all the way back to St Paul. At St Paul, take the D7 north through the spectacular Gorges de Galamus** (see GG under Galamus). There is a picture of this gorge in the guide. At times, the road is only 1 car width wide. We were there in mid June & we didn’t encounter another car – I don’t know what happens in July or August when there are more tourists.

At Cubieres, take the D14 towards Chateau de Peyrepertuse***. If you have not already done so, read about the Cathars faith in the Green Guide (or other guidebook) and learn about their religion, life, and fate. Visit this chateau, but be aware that some climbing & walking is necessary. The French don’t like to install escalators or paved walkways to get to their historic sites, so you’ll have to walk along dirt paths, over rocks, & through some low hung trees to get to the chateau. Also, walking around the Chateau is treacherous at times – but worth it. Plan on a 2 hour visit. There is a picture of the Chateau in the Green Guide. After visiting the Chateau, head east on the D14 towards another Cathar’s stronghold – the Chateau de Queribus*. As you leave Peyrepertuse & drive to Queribus, search the crest of the ridge to your right & try to find Peyrepertuse hidden among the rock formations. We did not visit Queribus – Peyrepertuse was enough hiking & climbing for the day. The view of Queribus from the road is spectacular. Take the D19 south towards Maury – this road is very scenic. At Maury (famous for their sweet wine) head east on the D117 & then back to the hotel. It’s difficult to get on the A9 freeway from the D117 – we tried to do so on two occasions & got lost both times.

Friday

Route #3 – Collioure, Banyuls, Costa Brava in Spain, and Perpignan
If you are staying in Collioure**, then you will have explored this town thoroughly by now. They have an OK Sunday market. It’s very difficult to park in Collioure, so we usually like to visit it early in the morning, or later in the day when there are fewer day trippers. If you are starting this drive from somewhere other than Collioure, take the northern most exit to Collioure off the N114 – it’s more scenic. After visiting Collioure head south on the coast road past Port Vendres to Banyuls*. When you get out of Port Vendres, the route to Banyuls becomes very scenic. Banyuls is noted for their sweet wine, and you’ll see lots of vineyards along the way. However, they look like abandoned vineyards & you will wonder how they could possibly get grapes to grow on them – somehow, they do!!. Stop in Banyuls for a visit if you like – we didn’t, so I can’t comment on Banyuls, except that they have a nice restaurant in town – we dined there twice. Continue south on the N114 & into Spain. The coastline is quite spectacular here. Continue to Llanca, where you will run out of map. Take the GI612 and the GI613 to Cadaques**. Park the car & explore this coastal resort town – it’s quite nice. There are lots of café’s, and the town’s buildings are all painted white – quite different than the villages in France. After visiting Cadaques, take the GI614 west to Figueres, where you will get on the Freeway heading north to Perpignan.

Perpignan** has quite a bit of urban sprawl, but the old part of town is well worth exploring. Be patient when you drive into town & find a place to park. We got lost twice. If you are visiting Perpignan in the morning, have a coffee at one of the outside cafes next to le Castillet. If you are here at lunchtime, there are lots of outdoor cafes on Quai Vauban along the river. Quite a few shops attracted my wife’s attention on R Mailly. I enjoyed the musee Hyacinthe-Rigaud. The Palais des Rois de Majorque was worth a visit. Follow the suggested walking plan in the GG – starting at le Castillet however.


Fort de Salses** See “Salses” in the Green Guide. If you can possibly fit this into your schedule, then by all means, do so. Read about it in the guide. There is a guided tour, and the guide spoke English when asked to do so.

Stu Dudley