seagulls

I'm planning an 11 day trip in September, flying in to Barcelona and out of Nice. Plan on spending 3 nights in Barcelona, one night on the way from Barcelona to Provence, perhaps in Coulliers or Sete. Have 7 nights left. Can't decide if I should allow 3 nights in Provence (have been recommended to stay at Mas D'Oulivie in Les Baux by a friend) and 4 on the Cote d'Azur, or the other way around. (Could also do one night in Aix to be closer to the Riveria) Also, can't decide if I should stay at a hotel recommended in Juan les Pins (Hotel des Mimosas) or at hotels I've seen recommended in the hills (Hameau, Relais Cantemarle in St. Paul de Vence or Le Cagnard in Cagnes sur Mer)(or any other great suggestions). If you stay in the hills do you feel removed from the Mediterranean part of the experience, or is it a more relaxing refuge at night after travelling all day. Basically, after reading about all the great things to do, feel like we're not going to have enough time, but have to make a decision about how many nights in each area. Thanks for your help!

Underhill

Juan-les-Pins isn't all that interesting, and getting into and out of the area in the heavy traffic is a real pain. Staying just above the coast still gives you the Mediterranean experience without all the cars.

Staying 3 nights up at Les Baux might be overkill, as you're going to have to spend some time driving out and back to go to other places. Something near St.-Rémy would be more convenient.

Aix is about 2-1/2 hours from the Côte d'Azur via the motorway.

seagulls

In terms of the beauty of the area and the activities, which area would you recommend spending the 4 days, Provence proper or the cotes d'azur? and which area 3 days?

Underhill

The area around St.-Rémy is quite beautiful, but so is the Côte d'Azur. Much depends on what you're looking for: perched villages, stunning coastline, mountains. And what kinds of activities? Sightseeing, nature, art...let me know and I'll make suggestions.

seagulls

From everything I've read I think we're going to love it all. I'm thinking that as long as I'm hearing such great information about the Cote D'Azur that it probably makes sense to book the 3 nights in Provence and 4 in Cotes D'Azur because we'd have the option to hang back in Provence for part of that 4th day and basically have 3 and a half days in each! By the way the hotel is Les Baux is beneath the city, so more accessible. A couple more questions. Do you think Haute Provence is definitely worth seeing? Is a morning in Aix enough? and would you drive along the coast the long way from St. Tropez in to Cannes, or go by way of the autoroute? Now that I've caught on to this listserve, it's addicting! I love reading all of your responses!

Underhill

Just let me point out, first, that the Côte d'Azur is part of Provence; so you'll be spending a lot of time there! That's fine--it's lovely, and there is so much to see. As for Haute Provence, if this is your first trip I'd save that area for later, after you've seen all the major sights you have time for this time around.

You say the hotel is Les Baux is beneath the city--exactly where? Les Baux is a ruined town atop a steep outcropping; if you're in the valley below, there are several possible regions.

For me, a morning in Aix would be enough, especially given all the construction that's been going on along the Cours Mirabeau (anyone know if it's finished yet)?

The drive along the coast from St.-Tropez to Cannes is beautiful--but slow. Depends on how much time you have, but it's a wonderful way to see the Mediterranean.

seagulls

This is the location - Le Mas de l'Oulivié is located 2 Km from the village of les Baux-de-Provence,
in the direction of Fontvieille / Arles on the D78f secondary road. Is that terribly inconvenient? As I said it was highly recommended by friends. Otherwise the Chateux des Apilles in St. Remy looks great. Also, I know you highly recommend Le Hameau in St. Paul de Vence. Have you seen La Grande Bastide? Do you definitely recommend St. Paul over any other area?
Thanks!

StCirq

If the mas is on that road, it must be just at the base of the road up to Les Baux from Maussane. Not a bad location at all - very easy to get around from there, but a bit of a hike into either Les Baux or Maussane by foot.

In case you're still trying to choose between Collioure and Sète, by the way, Sète is a lot closer to Provence, but Collioure is FAR more picturesque.

seagulls

I am still trying to decide between Collioure and Sete. I would like to end up closer to Provence, but part of it has to do with how much time we will want going up inland or closer to the coast from Barcelona. Do you have any recommendations about must see stops and a route and how long it would all take?

StCirq

Well, you can take the highway from Perpignan, or you can hug the coast. There's all kinds of wonderful places to stop - enough to keep you busy for a couple of weeks - but since you don't have much time, I'd just decide where you want to stay and drive on the autoroute.
Personally, I wouldn't stay in Sète unless you're dying for a sandy beach. There's not much to choose from in the way of accommodations, and the town is pretty gritty. It's worth stopping in tiny Bouziques for oysters and mussels, though!

If you're heading along the coast, consider stopping in Aigues-Mortes. I love that place! One of the most lovely squares in all Europe, IMO. However, it's only a half-hour or so from Arles, so you probably won't want to overnight there.

If you want an overnight that's about halfway between Barcelona and Provence, stop in Montpellier - it's a fabulous city.

seagulls

That's good feedback. It sounds like you really recommend Collioure, Aigues- Mortes, Montpelier - do you know of any of the highlights on the stretch from Barcelona to Perpignan? The ones I've read about and am considering are Girona, Figueres, Cadaques. How long does it take to drive from Montpelier to Nimes, where we'll start our Provence touring at the Arena?
Thanks

Underhill

La Grande Bastide is on the road leading up to St.-Paul, a little below Le Hameau. We see it as we go past but have never stayed there, as we like Le Hameau so much.

It's hard to answer your question about recommending one area over another without knowing your preferences--we can only tell you what WE like.

cigalechanta

If you stop in Aigue-Mortes, I can recommend the "La Camargue" Restaurant.
where you will be entertained by gypsy guitar players as you eat your dinner under the fig trees and the open-air grill.

cigalechanta

P.S. should you want to spend the night there, we stayed at the Hotel Les Templiers.

StCirq

seagulls:

I haven't ever gotten as far as Barcelona on the road down the Costa Brava - always wanted to turn around and go back to France, I guess. We've been to Figueres an Cadaques, and - what can I say? - I'm a francophile and although they were interesting enough, they just weren't as pretty to me as the French towns. There's some fabulous scenery along that route, though, and it's a good chance to try some Catalan foods.

As far as the drive from Montpellier to Nîmes, it's only 35 miles, so it'll take you well under an hour from city center to city center.