Provence: 1week only...1 base or 2?
Dec 18th, 2011, 01:14 PM
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Provence: 1week only...1 base or 2?
We are travelling to Provence September 7-14
This is our first time in Provence and we only have a week before heading to Nice for 3 nights
We will have started in Paris first
We will train to Avignon,pick up rental car and keep till we reach Nice.
Is Graveson good location to stay for whole 7 days in Provence ?
This is Ira's wonderful B&B recommendation.....
Looking at so many posts as well as maps, still hard for me to know and would love Your advice!
Also have stududley's wonderful trip itinerary for help!
Bonnieux,Rousillon,Gordes,Avignon, the Pont du gard,Arles,Aix,St.Remy,L'isle sur la sorgue,
And???
We are 2 adults and love small hilltowns/ towns for scenery,restos, cultural/historical
fYi: spent a week in Montepulciano apartment and drove around hilltowns...fantastic!
Big cities are great (Paris), but always wanted to see Provence
Your thoughts s'il vous plait!!
Merci beaucoup!!
This is our first time in Provence and we only have a week before heading to Nice for 3 nights
We will have started in Paris first
We will train to Avignon,pick up rental car and keep till we reach Nice.
Is Graveson good location to stay for whole 7 days in Provence ?
This is Ira's wonderful B&B recommendation.....
Looking at so many posts as well as maps, still hard for me to know and would love Your advice!
Also have stududley's wonderful trip itinerary for help!
Bonnieux,Rousillon,Gordes,Avignon, the Pont du gard,Arles,Aix,St.Remy,L'isle sur la sorgue,
And???
We are 2 adults and love small hilltowns/ towns for scenery,restos, cultural/historical
fYi: spent a week in Montepulciano apartment and drove around hilltowns...fantastic!
Big cities are great (Paris), but always wanted to see Provence
Your thoughts s'il vous plait!!
Merci beaucoup!!
Dec 18th, 2011, 04:26 PM
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As I stated in my itinerary, if you are visiting for a week - I recommend two seperate locations so you can get the feel of both countryside & small city.
Many people like St Remy for their small city part. But if you go to Provence & expect to experience the same thing you did in Montepulciano, IMO you are going to be dissapointed with St Remy (we've vacationed for about 7-8 weeks in the Val d'Orcia/Montepulciano area). However, I think if you stay in St Remy and ALSO in the Luberon (near Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux) you will enjoy your time in Provence.
We stay in Gites (houses) & have spent 18 weeks in Provence, and have "based" in 5 different locations. We first stayed 2 weeks in the Luberon near Gordes, 2 weeks near St Remy, and 2 weeks near Vaison. We returned to the Luberon for 2 more weeks, then 2 weeks near Uzes, and 2 weeks near Bedoin. Then we returned for 4 weeks near Bedion, and another 2 weeks near Bedoin a few years later (last year). Although we obviously prefer the Bedoin region - I think for a first-timer the Luberon would be more interesting for your "countryside" experience.
I'm not a big fan of the countryside around St Remy - except to the south in the Alpilles/Les Baux region. I also try to stay as far away from Avignon as possible because of the urban sprawl you often have to drive through to get "elsewhere".
Stu Dudley
Many people like St Remy for their small city part. But if you go to Provence & expect to experience the same thing you did in Montepulciano, IMO you are going to be dissapointed with St Remy (we've vacationed for about 7-8 weeks in the Val d'Orcia/Montepulciano area). However, I think if you stay in St Remy and ALSO in the Luberon (near Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux) you will enjoy your time in Provence.
We stay in Gites (houses) & have spent 18 weeks in Provence, and have "based" in 5 different locations. We first stayed 2 weeks in the Luberon near Gordes, 2 weeks near St Remy, and 2 weeks near Vaison. We returned to the Luberon for 2 more weeks, then 2 weeks near Uzes, and 2 weeks near Bedoin. Then we returned for 4 weeks near Bedion, and another 2 weeks near Bedoin a few years later (last year). Although we obviously prefer the Bedoin region - I think for a first-timer the Luberon would be more interesting for your "countryside" experience.
I'm not a big fan of the countryside around St Remy - except to the south in the Alpilles/Les Baux region. I also try to stay as far away from Avignon as possible because of the urban sprawl you often have to drive through to get "elsewhere".
Stu Dudley
Dec 19th, 2011, 06:36 AM
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Personally, I prefer the Luberon over St Remy, so I would spend the most nights there. If your plans include a Sunday and you want to go to the l'Isle sur la Sorgue market - then make sure that you are in the Luberon Sunday morning (get to the market early). Many shops are closed on St Remy on a Monday morning (but open on Sunday), so consider that also. If you want to visit Uzes, St Remy is closer so be in St Remy any day except Sunday or Monday for access to Uzes (and Pont du Gard).
Stu Dudley
Stu Dudley
Dec 19th, 2011, 09:55 AM
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Hi izz,
>Is Graveson good location to stay for whole 7 days in Provence ?
This is Ira's wonderful B&B recommendation.....<
We liked doing it that way.
Did you read my trip report, Ira Returns From 22 Loverly Days in Europe - Sep, 2009
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-europe.cfm
We traveled as far East as Bonnieux and Rousillon, less than 1:15 hr away, and found no need to change lodgings.
I'm sure that others would prefer to split the visit.
Whichever you do, enjoy.
>Is Graveson good location to stay for whole 7 days in Provence ?
This is Ira's wonderful B&B recommendation.....<
We liked doing it that way.
Did you read my trip report, Ira Returns From 22 Loverly Days in Europe - Sep, 2009
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-europe.cfm
We traveled as far East as Bonnieux and Rousillon, less than 1:15 hr away, and found no need to change lodgings.
I'm sure that others would prefer to split the visit.
Whichever you do, enjoy.
Dec 19th, 2011, 01:03 PM
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I agree it is probably personal preference. I have less experience than others on this board in Provence but we headquartered in one location for our week in Provence (Maussane, about 15 min from St. Remy) and it was delightful. The driving is beautiful and there is a lot to see within an hour radius of many villages. I prefer to settle in and get to know a place and not to take the time to pack and unpack when the experience will be similar (ie unless you are traveling to a different climate/culture/etc).
Dec 19th, 2011, 01:21 PM
#7
I love Maussane. Not big but not small like some villages.
This was my choice as well as St Remy and Eygaliers through the years when and Eygaliers staying in the Les Alpilles. In the Luberon, my choices were Lourmarin, Bonnieux.These two areas are the true Provence unlike the Cote D'Azur with its palm trees that are not
an authentic growth of the region.
Provence is an earthly Paradise with it's vineyards,
knarled olive trees and wild herbs growing on the garrigue.
This was my choice as well as St Remy and Eygaliers through the years when and Eygaliers staying in the Les Alpilles. In the Luberon, my choices were Lourmarin, Bonnieux.These two areas are the true Provence unlike the Cote D'Azur with its palm trees that are not
an authentic growth of the region.
Provence is an earthly Paradise with it's vineyards,
knarled olive trees and wild herbs growing on the garrigue.
Dec 19th, 2011, 01:38 PM
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Thanks so much for all your advice!!
Ira: yes, I did read your terrific TR!!
Lynn and CC: Where in Mausanne did you stay? Also, may check St Remy...any recs?
stu: thanks again for your help! Will stay longer in Luberon
So hard to plan days as there are so many beautiful places and we tend to go with the slower travel approach of less is always more!
Would love any suggestions of how you would do 7 days?
Thanks again everyone: such great help!
Ira: yes, I did read your terrific TR!!
Lynn and CC: Where in Mausanne did you stay? Also, may check St Remy...any recs?
stu: thanks again for your help! Will stay longer in Luberon
So hard to plan days as there are so many beautiful places and we tend to go with the slower travel approach of less is always more!
Would love any suggestions of how you would do 7 days?
Thanks again everyone: such great help!
Dec 19th, 2011, 02:18 PM
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>>Would love any suggestions of how you would do 7 days?<<
OK - what day of the week & time of day do you arrive in Avignon?? What day of the week & time do you leave Provence for Nice??? How many days will you spend in Nice??
Stu Dudley
OK - what day of the week & time of day do you arrive in Avignon?? What day of the week & time do you leave Provence for Nice??? How many days will you spend in Nice??
Stu Dudley
Dec 19th, 2011, 02:44 PM
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Oops - I noticed that you already stated this info in your first post.
7th - Wed - arrive in Avignon from Paris.
Stay in St Remy (Mausanne would be a good choice too - less touristy than St Remy). Visit les Baux and drive around the Alpilles in the afternoon.
8th Thurs - Visit Arles in the AM & St Remy in the afternoon
stay in St Remy/Mausanne.
9th Fri - visit Uzes in the AM and Pont du Gard & Castillon in the afternoon. Remember, shops will close for lunch in Uzes around noon. Stay in St Remy/Mausanne
10th Sat - Check out of hotel/B&B & visit Eygaliers on the way to the Luberon. Visit Bonnieux in the afternoon & drive around in the Luberon a tad.
11th Sun - market in l'Isle sur la Sorgue in the AM. Get there by 8am (see my itinerary for more info). Visit Roussillon and/or Gordes in the afternoon.
12th Monday. Take the drive through the Luberon that I describe in my itinerary. Visit Lourmarin in the afternoon if you have time.
13th Tues. Drive my "lavender route" from the itinerary. There will not be any lavender blooming then, but you will see some pretty countryside & some cute villages.
14th Wed Check out of hotel and visit Lourmarin in the am on the way to Nice, or hit Aix on the way.
If you are a little more ambitious, also try to visit Brantes on the 13th. From Montbrun take the D72/D41 west, then south to Brantes, then back north & continue west on the D5. Then at Mollans take the D40/D72 back to Montbrun. Very pretty drive and Brantes is a gem.
Stu Dudley
7th - Wed - arrive in Avignon from Paris.
Stay in St Remy (Mausanne would be a good choice too - less touristy than St Remy). Visit les Baux and drive around the Alpilles in the afternoon.
8th Thurs - Visit Arles in the AM & St Remy in the afternoon
stay in St Remy/Mausanne.
9th Fri - visit Uzes in the AM and Pont du Gard & Castillon in the afternoon. Remember, shops will close for lunch in Uzes around noon. Stay in St Remy/Mausanne
10th Sat - Check out of hotel/B&B & visit Eygaliers on the way to the Luberon. Visit Bonnieux in the afternoon & drive around in the Luberon a tad.
11th Sun - market in l'Isle sur la Sorgue in the AM. Get there by 8am (see my itinerary for more info). Visit Roussillon and/or Gordes in the afternoon.
12th Monday. Take the drive through the Luberon that I describe in my itinerary. Visit Lourmarin in the afternoon if you have time.
13th Tues. Drive my "lavender route" from the itinerary. There will not be any lavender blooming then, but you will see some pretty countryside & some cute villages.
14th Wed Check out of hotel and visit Lourmarin in the am on the way to Nice, or hit Aix on the way.
If you are a little more ambitious, also try to visit Brantes on the 13th. From Montbrun take the D72/D41 west, then south to Brantes, then back north & continue west on the D5. Then at Mollans take the D40/D72 back to Montbrun. Very pretty drive and Brantes is a gem.
Stu Dudley
Dec 19th, 2011, 03:01 PM
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Stu knows his stuff but, as someone said, choices about this are very personal.
For only one week, I vote for 1 place. DH and I loved coming "home" to Aix and Aqua Bella Hotel. Others can suggest other bases.
http://www.aquabella.fr/
We preferred basing in a town with a university and a charming pedestrian area. Aix fits the bill (as does Montpellier but that's not where you will be, eh?). We didn't drive but there is a garage very close. It looks like getting there the first time will be a challenge as the one-way road ringing Aix goes fast and the exits on the left come up abruptly. But the hotel has a resto, a spa, a pool heated by natural springs and is 5-minute walk from many restos and main square.
Hope to be reading a wonderful trip report from you!
For only one week, I vote for 1 place. DH and I loved coming "home" to Aix and Aqua Bella Hotel. Others can suggest other bases.
http://www.aquabella.fr/
We preferred basing in a town with a university and a charming pedestrian area. Aix fits the bill (as does Montpellier but that's not where you will be, eh?). We didn't drive but there is a garage very close. It looks like getting there the first time will be a challenge as the one-way road ringing Aix goes fast and the exits on the left come up abruptly. But the hotel has a resto, a spa, a pool heated by natural springs and is 5-minute walk from many restos and main square.
Hope to be reading a wonderful trip report from you!
Dec 19th, 2011, 07:07 PM
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wow! thanks so much Stu!!! actually, we arrive Paris on a Sunday and leave for Avignon on a Friday, but I'll just amend your suggested itinerary to fit this (markets, etc)
Visit Avignon on arrival I am guessing and then head out.
Thanks for the suggestion of first going South and then back to Luberon: just reserving hotels , so this will help so much!!
TDudette: love your posts/TRs and hope to do so eventually. thank you for your advice!
Visit Avignon on arrival I am guessing and then head out.
Thanks for the suggestion of first going South and then back to Luberon: just reserving hotels , so this will help so much!!
TDudette: love your posts/TRs and hope to do so eventually. thank you for your advice!
Dec 19th, 2011, 08:32 PM
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Good grief - I looked at the '11 calendar instead of the '12 one.
Visit the Luberon first, so you can be close to l'Isle sur la Sorgue for the Sunday market. Then on Tues, head over to the St Remy area & do that stuff. Wed is the St Remy market - which I think kinda hides the "features" of the city & might not be the best thing to do if you only have time to spend the morning in St Remy.
The Avignon TGV station is outside of the city - so you won't really be close to the medieval/old section of town. Therefore, you can visit it any time while you are either in the Luberon or St Remy - no need to visit it when you first arrive from Paris.
Stu Dudley
Visit the Luberon first, so you can be close to l'Isle sur la Sorgue for the Sunday market. Then on Tues, head over to the St Remy area & do that stuff. Wed is the St Remy market - which I think kinda hides the "features" of the city & might not be the best thing to do if you only have time to spend the morning in St Remy.
The Avignon TGV station is outside of the city - so you won't really be close to the medieval/old section of town. Therefore, you can visit it any time while you are either in the Luberon or St Remy - no need to visit it when you first arrive from Paris.
Stu Dudley
Dec 20th, 2011, 12:45 PM
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Thanks again Stu!
Is it good/bad idea to drive to Nice via the Gorges du Verdun route??? No overnight stop.
Just long day
Or too much to do and just go via Aix south route?
If that drive is a good plan, it's probably best to do from St Saturnin where we are staying...
But then we wouldnt be near Sunday market of L'Isle sur la sorgue, as we would be staying south that day
Is it a "not miss" market experience?
So hard to know .... And doubt we will be able to return to Provence again.
Thanks everyone for the help!!!
Is it good/bad idea to drive to Nice via the Gorges du Verdun route??? No overnight stop.
Just long day
Or too much to do and just go via Aix south route?
If that drive is a good plan, it's probably best to do from St Saturnin where we are staying...
But then we wouldnt be near Sunday market of L'Isle sur la sorgue, as we would be staying south that day
Is it a "not miss" market experience?
So hard to know .... And doubt we will be able to return to Provence again.
Thanks everyone for the help!!!
Dec 20th, 2011, 02:04 PM
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>>Is it good/bad idea to drive to Nice via the Gorges du Verdun route??? No overnight stop.<<
I'm not a big fan of the Gorge du Verdun. There are many other better gordes in France (Tarn, Ardeche). If you have ever visited the US Grand Canyon, the Verdun gorge will really disappoint you. I hate the Route du Cretes section - and in Sept it may be even scarier with the increased auto traffic.
>>Or too much to do and just go via Aix south route?<<
The drive on the A8 near the St Tropez exit and the Maures Mnts. is actually quite scenic.
>>If that drive is a good plan, it's probably best to do from St Saturnin where we are staying...
But then we wouldnt be near Sunday market of L'Isle sur la sorgue, as we would be staying south that day
Is it a "not miss" market experience?<<
I think for a first timer - the l'Isle sur la Sorgue market is the most interesting in France. Combination of food, crafts, Provence fabric, soap, serious antiques, and good (but overpriced) flea market. Get there early - I can't stress this point too much - especially in early Sept.
Stu Dudley
I'm not a big fan of the Gorge du Verdun. There are many other better gordes in France (Tarn, Ardeche). If you have ever visited the US Grand Canyon, the Verdun gorge will really disappoint you. I hate the Route du Cretes section - and in Sept it may be even scarier with the increased auto traffic.
>>Or too much to do and just go via Aix south route?<<
The drive on the A8 near the St Tropez exit and the Maures Mnts. is actually quite scenic.
>>If that drive is a good plan, it's probably best to do from St Saturnin where we are staying...
But then we wouldnt be near Sunday market of L'Isle sur la sorgue, as we would be staying south that day
Is it a "not miss" market experience?<<
I think for a first timer - the l'Isle sur la Sorgue market is the most interesting in France. Combination of food, crafts, Provence fabric, soap, serious antiques, and good (but overpriced) flea market. Get there early - I can't stress this point too much - especially in early Sept.
Stu Dudley
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