Hi
returning to Prague this April for 4.5 days.
Last time I missed the Prague Castle Gallery; can anyone advise as to how one accesses it?
Also, any comments on that gallery in comparison with the collection in the National Gallery in Old Town Square would be appreciated. I'd also like to know opinions on the Museum of Decorative Arts.

Also, looking for a few places near Wenceslas Square (15-20 minute walk is fine) for casual dining, or places that have continuous service all day and evening (good options for our first day.) Last time I ate at the higher price end, for Prague; this time I'd like different options (but, TG, I do hope to go back to "David.&quot

Elaine, I've been to the national gallery collection up near the castle, if you mean Sternberg Palace right near the castle -- just to the west of it. If you go by the 22 tram, you pass it before you get to St Vitus cathedral. When I've been there, they had a large poster or sign marking it spread across the top floor of the building, as I recall, you couldn't miss it. It has an entrance and is clearly marked as far as I remember. If you don't go by that tram, maybe you didn't go beyond the castle complex in that direction and that's the problem.

Perhaps you mean a different collection, do you mean the Picture Gallery of Prague Castle? I don't think I stopped in there, but it has access from the north side of the building in the first main section of the complex (second courtyard), the one before the one where the cathedral is. I think both of those are owned by the National Gallery.

I don't know about a collection in Old Town Square, however, so can't comment on that. If you haven't been there, I do highly recommend the National Gallery's collection of late 19th and 20th century art which is in a building in the Karlov area (Prague 7) Veletrzni Palace. I saw some wonderful Czech impressionist works there by artists I'd never heard of before.

I do particularly like decorative arts museums and always go to them--so, I went to the one in Prague probably my first trip, so that's been maybe four years. It was not a very good museum -- poor displays and not much there. they would have had to improve it a lot to make it comparable to many other city's decorative arts museums. However, for that reason, it doesn't take long to tour and admission isn't much, so drop by if you have some time. I wouldn't put it at the top of my list, however -- if you haven't been there, aside from the modern art museum I mentioned, both the Loreto Palace and St Agnes convent where excellent, as well as the City of Prague museum.

I don't know restaurants in that area very well, and I just sort of look around and stop in whatever appeals. I know there is at least one cafeteria on Wenceslas Square that is open pretty continually and not too bad -- it's down near the "bottom" end on the right side as you look at the national museum.

Hi Christina
When we went to the Castle last time we walked from the hotel (Old Town side of Charles Bridge) so I think that's how we missed the Castle gallery. When we were finished we walked down to the Loreto church, so I know the Gallery isn't on that side. Since this next visit will be in mid-April (as opposed to early March last time) I'm hoping there will be value in seeing the Castle gardens where I think,not sure, the Castle gallery is or is near.

I've read about the St Agnes convent collection, but if I have to prioritize, and I do, then the Castle Gallery (Titian and other masters) is high on my list.

I'm disappointed in your take on the Decorative Arts museum because, if great, I would have been very interested--I usually am in that sort of thing. I'll keep it as a maybe.
I want to take my friend to the Mucha museum for sure, and our trip is only 4.5 days, so as always, there will be compromises.

As for W'las Square area, I'm trying to give it the benefit of the doubt as to an area to stay in. My friend wanted her travel agent friend to book the hotel, so I decided not to take a stand on that. Not at all my first choice for location, but at least it's still central. I am requesting that she change the booking of the Prague Castle tour that she has arranged for a Monday. The Castle IS accessible on Mondays, but the Castle art gallery is not, so I want to rearrange that and not go up to the Castle on two different days. (You can imagine how I feel about having a travel agent make these bookings.)

I know you are well-versed in music and that you attend many performances.
'Carmen' is on while we are there (State Opera) and the Prague Symph Orch at the Rudofinum (Debussy, Schubert, music that is, forgive me, easy to like). Do you recommend, or, since we like classical music but are not regular concert goers, might we be satisfied with just an informal concert in one of the churches?

We found the Museum of Decorative Arts very interesting and worthwhile, and would enjoy going back for a second look. On the ground floor there has usually been a special exhibit which we have found uninteresting. We like the upstairs where there is a permanent collection of design ideas of the last 4 centuries. Furniture, jewellery, posters, photos, glass etc. Much of the exhibit is from the 20th Century. Many beautiful things.

Other worthwhile museums you might look into are Betramka (small tranquil Mozart memorabilia),Kampa Museum (modern art, including wonderful work by abstract painter Frantisek Kupka and cubist sculptor Otto Gutfreund), National Technical Museum (Wonderful science and transport exhibits). The Manes gallery always has an interesting exhibit.

One of our favorite places to rest, eat, and watch the passing parade, is the Nostress Cafe at 10 Dusni, not far from W square. You can sit outside, inside, or listen to music in the evening downstairs. See http://www.czrb.cz/nostress/restaurant.asp.

A useful website for prague is www.livingprague.com .

I agree w/Christina that the Museum of Decorative Arts' displays were lacking (many of them were so dusty it was difficult to see what was on display). However, they did have a great collection of poster art (propaganda and publicity). They had cases of prints that you were free to open and explore by yourself. Not sure how good that is for conservation purposes but it was interesting. If I recall correctly they had some interesting costumes as well.

Unfortunately during our visit in October, the St. Agnes convent was closed. I had read and heard so many great things about this place so of course now I have a reason to return.

Now the food...

Café Louvre serves good inexpensive food for breakfast/lunch/dinner (they're near the Tesco):

http://www.cafelouvre.cz/home.php?la...s&left=ano

Another place next to Tesco is U Medvidku. It's a Restaurant/Beerhouse w/typical Czech cuisine. We went on a Sunday and saw lots of families, a couple of busses of German tourists (in a private room) and a couple of Americans. My food was ok (my husband liked his better) but the atmosphere and the beer were a lot of fun. Service was fast and friendly.

http://www.umedvidku.cz/

In the Josefov area, Pizzeria Rugantino serves delicious pizza. There's non-smoking section in the front of the restaurant that is well segregated from the rear smoker's den.

http://www.rugantino.cz/english/index1en.htm

I'd recommend a visit to the Communism Museum. While the exhibits are a little haphazard the narrative is very interesting and provides a good overview of Prague since WW2.

Enjoy your return trip. Your first trip report, along with AHaugeto's, helped influence our decision to visit Prague in October, so thanks again.

A guidebook I have says they have a couple masters in that gallery (Picture Gallery), but it was mostly ransacked or something.

The Rudolfinum is wonderful, of course, but there are excellent concerts in some of the churches -- I'd try for St Nicholas church in Mala Strana, or the National Museum, or the Klementinum near the bridge, in particular. St Nicholas church in Old Stone Square seems to be used for tourist concerts a lot, programs that are smaller excerpts and Vivaldi, rather than a regular concert with full-length pieces.

I know they have frequent chamber music (and probably solo recitals) in the Klementinum and the acoustics are excellent. Also, the room it is in is sort of the Prague version of Versailles' hall of mirrors and I don't believe you can see it other than the concerts (no regular tours of that building). They have flyers out in front of it with schedules for the week, they are usually excellent programs.

Also, they have excellent chamber music groups at the National Museum and those are casual and cheap, also. They make you sit on the stairs, actually (not good for someone with knee or flexibility problems, unfortunately), but the acoustics are excellent. That would be near your hotel, also, a good choice. Those aren't too terribly long, either, thank goodness because of the seating (maybe 60-75 minutes). They put some pads on the stairs, as I recall -- maybe, not sure, but don't dress up, slacks are good.

There are some good opera aria recitals, also -- at least the programs and performers looked good to me -- called the Stone Bell series and they are in Kaiserstein Palace in Mala Strana. This website has a link to info about it (in the "other" section or something)
http://www.czechopera.cz/

I would think the Klementinum or National Museum would be preferable to the tourist concerts in St Nicholas, but that's just my taste, and you could well enjoy them, also. The programs are fairly standard (excerpts from Vivaldi, Schubert, etc). There are certainly some concerts in other places, churches or the synagogues. You can check out schedules in the Prague Post for these kinds of things.

This is one web site that seems to list concert schedules for some of these venues, including the ones I mentioned (although not for more than a month) http://www.heartofeurope.cz/concerts_4.html

Christina, I can't get that heartofeurope website to open, I even tried just heartofeurope.cz

I know you didn't ask but a favorite of mine was the Alfons Mucha Museum. http://www.mucha.cz/

I had never heard of him prior to my readings on Prague and the Art Deco that abounds. We enjoyed it very much.

Hi elaine,
2 great places to eat are:
U Sadlu restaurant
http://www.usadlu.cz/eonas.html

The other is a small pub called the 3 black roses, I must locate the address but its very close to Prague Castle.

Will post again when i find it

Muck

thanks so far for all the replies

tmh, yes, I love the Mucha Museum, hope to go again. His style is typical of Art Nouveau, not Art Deco, which is actually why I like it.

To elaine -- If you can hear a symphony concert in the Rudolfinum, I would never pass that up. As you said, the music is probably easy to take and altho the smaller concerts are fine, there is nothing (IMHO) like a full symphony orchestra in a beautiful hall. Also I think you will like the Mucha Museum, at least I did. I can't handle really large art museums, but I enjoyed this small "gem".

Elaine, I will top my Prague trip report for you (The Pancaky Papers). I mention the Museum of Decorative Arts in my report. I also list two restaurants that are near Vaclav Namesti, both cheap. These restaurants are near the SAS Radisson on Stepanska.

thanks TG, I posted a question on the PP thread before I saw your heads up here.
Now I realize where Stepanska is, but

<forgive me, I remain confused about the National Gallery--which collection is in the Sternburg Palace, and where the heck is that? I'm still trying to figure out where the Titians are.

I guess you didn't mind staying near Wenceslas Square, which is where I'll be staying this time.>

Christina, just thought I'd share this website in case you don't have it, it offers the concert schedule for
St Nicholas's church (Castle area)
www.psalterium.cz/en/plan_koncertu_en.php

We walked past U Medviku at dinnertime and, intrigued by the ambience, decided to drop in for dinner. We enjoyed a very inexpensive Czech meal there while the lively (but not overbearing) oompah band entertained us. I had the roast boar on garlic with potato dumpling and spinach, which was delicious. The menu is on their website.

Several tour groups were ushered into rooms in the back of the restaurant. We got a glimpse of their plates, which included something that looked like a boiled hot dog with potatoes and canned mixed veggies, in stark contrast to the good choices offered on the menu. We try to avoid restaurants that accommodate tours, but it didn't make a difference because the tours were seated in an entirely different area. This is a lively place, so if you're looking for a quiet, candle-lit, romantic dinner, you'd probably be happier somewhere else.

According to a map I have, the Picture Gallery of Prague Castle is to the right of St. Vitus Cathedral, INSIDE the walls of the castle complex. The Sternburg Collection is OUTSIDE the castle gates, to the right of the square in front of the castle complex.
I did not visit the Picture Gallery, only the Sternburg Collection.

Titian's "The Toilet of the Young Lady" is in the Picture Gallery.

hmmm... Maybe there's something wrong with your computer, Elaine, I just clicked on that same link and got it fine.

The root URL is www.heartofeurope.cz and I just got that fine, also, and then you click on "concerts" on the bar towards the top of the page at the left. It lists a lot of venues on the resulting left side of the page (such as Klementinum, National Museum, etc) with current schedules. For the National Museum, it only lists February, but at least that will give you an idea of programming.

I have read there is a Titian in the Picture Gallery, but the Sternberg Palace was a very good collection.

Thanks Christina, website looks very helpful, it works for me today.
I see they don't go too far out on the calendar, but I'll be patient.

TG, thanks for the clarification on the galleries.
Betsy, good restaurant info, thanks to you and all.

Just to complete my earlier post.
3 black Roses (U 3 cernych ruzi)
Zamecha 05
Praha 01 mala STRANA

Sorry I dont have the accents and Czech language to write it exactly but thats the jist of it.
Great down to earth pub, good food beer and no fuss.

Muck

thank you