Portugal Trip Report
Jun 15th, 2006, 02:55 AM
#22
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When you were in Evora did you see the S. Brás Chapel? I've come across some photos of it but very little information, just wondering if you saw it.
Re pottery - you said you bought stuff in both the shop in Redondo and one near Alcobaba. We'll be in both areas, so will check them both out. Did you think one was better than the other in terms of prices or selection. In other words, should I save some pottery buying money for when I get to Alcobaba or figure the one in Redondo is as good as its going to get?
Re pottery - you said you bought stuff in both the shop in Redondo and one near Alcobaba. We'll be in both areas, so will check them both out. Did you think one was better than the other in terms of prices or selection. In other words, should I save some pottery buying money for when I get to Alcobaba or figure the one in Redondo is as good as its going to get?
Jun 15th, 2006, 03:41 AM
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Isabel - I don't think we saw S. Brás Chapel in Evora. As far as pottery goes, I definitely recommend saving money for Olaria Vale Coelho between Alcobaca and Batalha. It was my favorite pottery stop - their prices and selection were even better than Redondo. I still think you should also stop in Redondo - especially if you like pottery. One thing that Redondo had that Olaria Vale Coelho didn't is the pottery with the Alentejo people and landscape scenes.
This morning, I'll work on my next section of my report and it'll talk about Olaria Vale Coelho - I'll post photos so you can see some of their work.
This morning, I'll work on my next section of my report and it'll talk about Olaria Vale Coelho - I'll post photos so you can see some of their work.
Jun 15th, 2006, 05:41 AM
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Day 8: This morning, we made the short drive from Obidos to Nazare.
Nazare Accommodations: Mar Bravo
Website: http://www.marbravo.com/
Price: 100 E per night with view, bath, & continental breakfast
Our room at the Mar Bravo was very comfortable and had great views of the beach and Placa Sousa Oliveira. We had no problems with noise levels even though our room overlooked the many restaurants on the busy Placa Sousa Oliveira.
Nazare Activities: To be honest, Nazare pleasantly surprised us. We had read about how tourism has changed this fishing village and while it’s not a quiet, little village anymore, we still thought this town was very charming. Perhaps, if we had visited in the busy tourist season in July or August, we would have felt differently. I particularly enjoyed the Sitio, the small town overlooking Nazare, with its beautiful views of the bright, blue ocean. Our day in Nazare was also another opportunity for us to slow down and relax.
Nazare Dining: We had a delicious dinner of shellfish rice, salad, and vinho verde at Restaurante Adega Oceano Marisqueira. The restaurant is located on Avenida da Republica. We ate outside on their enclosed patio and had a great view of the sunset.
Day 9: Alcobaca, Pottery Stop, Batalha, and Fatima
We spent the day touring the beautiful sights found in Alcobaca, Batalha, and Fatima. All 3 towns are in close proximity to each other and driving between them was no problem.
During the drive between Alcobaca and Batalha, we stumbled upon a pottery factory called Olaria Vale Coelho (website is http://www.ovc.com.pt/). This place was filled floor to ceiling with pottery - I was in heaven! DH and I really enjoyed talking with the very friendly husband and wife that owned the place. We learned that they have been in business for quite some time, selling their pieces to stores, but just recently opened up their own store with factory prices. Later on in our trip, I found their pieces in many other stores that were 2 to 3 times more expensive than the prices in their factory store. For instance, a beautiful pitcher I bought in their store for about 15 E (about 12 inches tall and maybe 7-8 inches in it’s widest point) was priced at 37 E in a Lisbon gift shop.
At the end of our day, we made the short drive from Fatima to Coimbra and checked into our hotel by the early evening.
Coimbra Accommodations: Hotel Astoria
Website: http://www.almeidahotels.com/astoria_eng.htm
Price: 101 E per night with private bath and continental breakfast
I really liked the way lobby and other common areas in the Hotel Astoria were decorated, but I really didn’t care for our drab room. On a good note, our bathroom was very nice and newly renovated with a very large bathtub. Also, the front desk was extremely friendly and helpful.
I’ve added more photos to: http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com
Next up: Coimbra
Nazare Accommodations: Mar Bravo
Website: http://www.marbravo.com/
Price: 100 E per night with view, bath, & continental breakfast
Our room at the Mar Bravo was very comfortable and had great views of the beach and Placa Sousa Oliveira. We had no problems with noise levels even though our room overlooked the many restaurants on the busy Placa Sousa Oliveira.
Nazare Activities: To be honest, Nazare pleasantly surprised us. We had read about how tourism has changed this fishing village and while it’s not a quiet, little village anymore, we still thought this town was very charming. Perhaps, if we had visited in the busy tourist season in July or August, we would have felt differently. I particularly enjoyed the Sitio, the small town overlooking Nazare, with its beautiful views of the bright, blue ocean. Our day in Nazare was also another opportunity for us to slow down and relax.
Nazare Dining: We had a delicious dinner of shellfish rice, salad, and vinho verde at Restaurante Adega Oceano Marisqueira. The restaurant is located on Avenida da Republica. We ate outside on their enclosed patio and had a great view of the sunset.
Day 9: Alcobaca, Pottery Stop, Batalha, and Fatima
We spent the day touring the beautiful sights found in Alcobaca, Batalha, and Fatima. All 3 towns are in close proximity to each other and driving between them was no problem.
During the drive between Alcobaca and Batalha, we stumbled upon a pottery factory called Olaria Vale Coelho (website is http://www.ovc.com.pt/). This place was filled floor to ceiling with pottery - I was in heaven! DH and I really enjoyed talking with the very friendly husband and wife that owned the place. We learned that they have been in business for quite some time, selling their pieces to stores, but just recently opened up their own store with factory prices. Later on in our trip, I found their pieces in many other stores that were 2 to 3 times more expensive than the prices in their factory store. For instance, a beautiful pitcher I bought in their store for about 15 E (about 12 inches tall and maybe 7-8 inches in it’s widest point) was priced at 37 E in a Lisbon gift shop.
At the end of our day, we made the short drive from Fatima to Coimbra and checked into our hotel by the early evening.
Coimbra Accommodations: Hotel Astoria
Website: http://www.almeidahotels.com/astoria_eng.htm
Price: 101 E per night with private bath and continental breakfast
I really liked the way lobby and other common areas in the Hotel Astoria were decorated, but I really didn’t care for our drab room. On a good note, our bathroom was very nice and newly renovated with a very large bathtub. Also, the front desk was extremely friendly and helpful.
I’ve added more photos to: http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com
Next up: Coimbra
Jun 15th, 2006, 07:01 AM
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Not sure what was wrong with me in my last reply. I meant go to Cabo da Roca from Sintra. Sorry.
bailey your report is wonderful. The photos are not only good photos, they capture the feel of it all. I am so upset I did not know about that pottery place. I ended up not buying anything because it was all just tourist stuff or way over priced in the places we were.
My report is way too long but I figure readers can skim or skip it. Yours says it all. Can't wait for the rest. Also can't wait to go back and see all we missed!
bailey your report is wonderful. The photos are not only good photos, they capture the feel of it all. I am so upset I did not know about that pottery place. I ended up not buying anything because it was all just tourist stuff or way over priced in the places we were.
My report is way too long but I figure readers can skim or skip it. Yours says it all. Can't wait for the rest. Also can't wait to go back and see all we missed!
Jun 16th, 2006, 06:18 AM
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Day 10: Coimbra
Activities: We spent our day walking around the old town section of Coimbra. We walked the Santa Clara Bridge, toured the old university, and meandered through Coimbra’s streets and squares. If we were to do it all over again, my husband and I would probably skip Coimbra and add that time to the Alentejo region. Many tourists really seem to like Coimbra, but it was our least favorite among the towns we visited – it just didn’t wow us like the others did.
Dining: While in Coimbra we found a very good Italian restaurant located in the Parque Dr. Manuel Braga. We liked eating there because the meals were inexpensive and very good, plus I really enjoyed sitting outside by the river.
Day 11: Douro Valley
This morning, we checked out of the Hotel Astoria and drove to the Douro Valley to spend the afternoon before heading off to Porto. We spent most of our time getting lost in the twisty, narrow roads in the Douro Valley in an area just east of Peso da Regua. The scenery was amazing! I’m glad that we had our own rental car, so that we could go at our own pace and really get immersed amongst the vineyards. It really was amazing to see endless fields of grapevines flanking both sides of the Douro River.
One of our most enjoyable meals on our trip was a lunch that we had in the Douro Valley in a small town we stumbled upon called Fontelo. We ate at a pastelaria where a very sweet, young lady waited on us. She spoke no English, but she was very patient and extremely friendly even though our Portuguese was so poor. For 5 E, we received 2 ham and cheese sandwiches on homemade rolls (so good!), a large coke, 2 bottled waters, 2 coffees, and a pastry. Just goes to show you that the small establishments really do have the best food for the best prices!
We finished up our afternoon in the Douro at Quinta da Marrocos, a small quinta located near Peso da Regua. After buying a couple of bottles of their port wine, we made our way to the Porto Airport to turn in our rental car. We caught a cab to Porto (with a very friendly driver!) and checked in at Hotel da Bolsa.
Porto Accommodations: Hotel da Bolsa
Website: http://www.hoteldabolsa.com/
Price: 95 E with view private bath, and continental breakfast
(82 E w/o view)
We really liked our room at the Hotel da Bolsa (I think it was room 604). In addition to having outstanding views of the city and river, the room was very large and comfortable. The extra money for the view was definitely worth it since the views were actually amazing and I also think that those rooms on the higher floors are larger. The front desk was also extremely friendly and helpful. Hotel da Bolsa is in an ideal location. With it being just a little over a block from the Ribeira, everything was within walking distance.
Days 12-13: Porto
Activities:
Day 12 – We started off our first day in Porto by walking up to the city center and seeing the Avenue of the Allies, Praca da Liberdade, City Hall, Clerigos Tower, Sao Bento Train Station (you can’t miss the beautiful tile-decorated entrance), the shopping district, and the market. I really enjoyed walking through the market – so many stalls with different products – the flowers were beautiful. Then, we walked down to the Ribeira and had lunch. Afterwards, we walked across the bridge and visited 2 wine cellars, Croft and Vasconcellos. Then, we walked back to the hotel to relax and freshen up before dinner in the Ribeira.
Day 13 - On our second day in Porto, we toured the Palacio da Bolsa (beautiful – a must see!), visited the Sao Francisco Church, and went on a Douro River cruise. In the afternoon, we took the tram to a neighborhood called Foz located on the Atlantic. It was a nice way to spend the spare time that we had, but I don’t think it’s a must-see. Afterwards, we went to Sao Bento to purchase our train tickets back to Lisbon for the next day. We could purchase our tickets from Sao Bento even though we would be departing from the Campanha Train Station which was located further from the city center.
Dining: One of our most favorite dining experiences of our whole trip was at Ora Viva Restaurant. It’s a small, family-owned restaurant located in the Ribeira about a block back from the waterfront. The family was so nice and kind to us and their picanha was out of this world! Their homemade desserts were also divine! We actually ate there again on our second night.
We also had a very good lunch at Filha da Mae Preta located on the waterfront in the Ribeira. We really enjoyed their codfish cakes and steaks with fried eggs. I also loved their tile-decorated second floor dining room overlooking the river.
More photos can be found at: http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com
Up Next: Last few days in Lisbon
Activities: We spent our day walking around the old town section of Coimbra. We walked the Santa Clara Bridge, toured the old university, and meandered through Coimbra’s streets and squares. If we were to do it all over again, my husband and I would probably skip Coimbra and add that time to the Alentejo region. Many tourists really seem to like Coimbra, but it was our least favorite among the towns we visited – it just didn’t wow us like the others did.
Dining: While in Coimbra we found a very good Italian restaurant located in the Parque Dr. Manuel Braga. We liked eating there because the meals were inexpensive and very good, plus I really enjoyed sitting outside by the river.
Day 11: Douro Valley
This morning, we checked out of the Hotel Astoria and drove to the Douro Valley to spend the afternoon before heading off to Porto. We spent most of our time getting lost in the twisty, narrow roads in the Douro Valley in an area just east of Peso da Regua. The scenery was amazing! I’m glad that we had our own rental car, so that we could go at our own pace and really get immersed amongst the vineyards. It really was amazing to see endless fields of grapevines flanking both sides of the Douro River.
One of our most enjoyable meals on our trip was a lunch that we had in the Douro Valley in a small town we stumbled upon called Fontelo. We ate at a pastelaria where a very sweet, young lady waited on us. She spoke no English, but she was very patient and extremely friendly even though our Portuguese was so poor. For 5 E, we received 2 ham and cheese sandwiches on homemade rolls (so good!), a large coke, 2 bottled waters, 2 coffees, and a pastry. Just goes to show you that the small establishments really do have the best food for the best prices!
We finished up our afternoon in the Douro at Quinta da Marrocos, a small quinta located near Peso da Regua. After buying a couple of bottles of their port wine, we made our way to the Porto Airport to turn in our rental car. We caught a cab to Porto (with a very friendly driver!) and checked in at Hotel da Bolsa.
Porto Accommodations: Hotel da Bolsa
Website: http://www.hoteldabolsa.com/
Price: 95 E with view private bath, and continental breakfast
(82 E w/o view)
We really liked our room at the Hotel da Bolsa (I think it was room 604). In addition to having outstanding views of the city and river, the room was very large and comfortable. The extra money for the view was definitely worth it since the views were actually amazing and I also think that those rooms on the higher floors are larger. The front desk was also extremely friendly and helpful. Hotel da Bolsa is in an ideal location. With it being just a little over a block from the Ribeira, everything was within walking distance.
Days 12-13: Porto
Activities:
Day 12 – We started off our first day in Porto by walking up to the city center and seeing the Avenue of the Allies, Praca da Liberdade, City Hall, Clerigos Tower, Sao Bento Train Station (you can’t miss the beautiful tile-decorated entrance), the shopping district, and the market. I really enjoyed walking through the market – so many stalls with different products – the flowers were beautiful. Then, we walked down to the Ribeira and had lunch. Afterwards, we walked across the bridge and visited 2 wine cellars, Croft and Vasconcellos. Then, we walked back to the hotel to relax and freshen up before dinner in the Ribeira.
Day 13 - On our second day in Porto, we toured the Palacio da Bolsa (beautiful – a must see!), visited the Sao Francisco Church, and went on a Douro River cruise. In the afternoon, we took the tram to a neighborhood called Foz located on the Atlantic. It was a nice way to spend the spare time that we had, but I don’t think it’s a must-see. Afterwards, we went to Sao Bento to purchase our train tickets back to Lisbon for the next day. We could purchase our tickets from Sao Bento even though we would be departing from the Campanha Train Station which was located further from the city center.
Dining: One of our most favorite dining experiences of our whole trip was at Ora Viva Restaurant. It’s a small, family-owned restaurant located in the Ribeira about a block back from the waterfront. The family was so nice and kind to us and their picanha was out of this world! Their homemade desserts were also divine! We actually ate there again on our second night.
We also had a very good lunch at Filha da Mae Preta located on the waterfront in the Ribeira. We really enjoyed their codfish cakes and steaks with fried eggs. I also loved their tile-decorated second floor dining room overlooking the river.
More photos can be found at: http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com
Up Next: Last few days in Lisbon
Jun 16th, 2006, 12:22 PM
#29
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Sara - I'm glad that I can help. You will have a great time in Portugal!
The last portion of my report:
Day 14 and 15: Back in Lisbon
Our train ride back to Lisbon from Porto cost about 25 E pp and took about 3 hours. We got off at the Santa Apolonia station and took a cab back to Pensao Geres, where we had stayed for our first few nights. If I were to do this trip over again, I would book a fancy, more luxurious hotel at the end as a treat for us.
Activities:
Day 14 – We arrived back in Lisbon at about 1:30 pm. We checked into our hotel room, ate lunch, and caught a cab to Bairro Alto. We spent our afternoon walking around the Bairro Alto and Chiado. We went inside the Sao Roque Church and the Convento do Carmo. The convent ruins were particularly stunning against the bright, blue sky.
Day 15 – We felt lazy today, so we took a Lisbon tram tour and Tejo River Cruise. Our tram tour cost about 17 E pp and it was nice, but I don’t think I’d recommend it to anyone. We did it because we wanted to get a last glimpse of Lisbon without walking everywhere and it served that purpose, but I wouldn’t let it be my only tour of Lisbon. I think Tram 28 shows you more and is more fun!
The Tejo River Cruise was 20 E pp and I highly recommend it for the great views of Lisbon. It departs at 3 pm near Praca do Comercio, cruises up to the Vasco da Gama Bridge, turns around and cruises past the 25th of April Bridge to Belem, and returns to Praca do Comercio.
We spent our last evening with Matt, Lobo, and Gertrude in the Bairro Alto – what a great way to end an amazing trip! We really enjoyed seeing them again. They really found some fun places for us to hang out at.
I’m finally at the end of my report! Please let me know if you have questions.
Also, check out http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com for more photos.
The last portion of my report:
Day 14 and 15: Back in Lisbon
Our train ride back to Lisbon from Porto cost about 25 E pp and took about 3 hours. We got off at the Santa Apolonia station and took a cab back to Pensao Geres, where we had stayed for our first few nights. If I were to do this trip over again, I would book a fancy, more luxurious hotel at the end as a treat for us.
Activities:
Day 14 – We arrived back in Lisbon at about 1:30 pm. We checked into our hotel room, ate lunch, and caught a cab to Bairro Alto. We spent our afternoon walking around the Bairro Alto and Chiado. We went inside the Sao Roque Church and the Convento do Carmo. The convent ruins were particularly stunning against the bright, blue sky.
Day 15 – We felt lazy today, so we took a Lisbon tram tour and Tejo River Cruise. Our tram tour cost about 17 E pp and it was nice, but I don’t think I’d recommend it to anyone. We did it because we wanted to get a last glimpse of Lisbon without walking everywhere and it served that purpose, but I wouldn’t let it be my only tour of Lisbon. I think Tram 28 shows you more and is more fun!
The Tejo River Cruise was 20 E pp and I highly recommend it for the great views of Lisbon. It departs at 3 pm near Praca do Comercio, cruises up to the Vasco da Gama Bridge, turns around and cruises past the 25th of April Bridge to Belem, and returns to Praca do Comercio.
We spent our last evening with Matt, Lobo, and Gertrude in the Bairro Alto – what a great way to end an amazing trip! We really enjoyed seeing them again. They really found some fun places for us to hang out at.
I’m finally at the end of my report! Please let me know if you have questions.
Also, check out http://www.baileytravels.shutterfly.com for more photos.
Deborah
Jun 16th, 2006, 02:30 PM
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I have not checked out your photos yet, but loved the report! We were in Portugal a few years ago and loved it. You brought back some great memories for me
BTW, we also had dinner at Bonjardim one evening and it was nice. The waiter was very nice and was great with our kids. We found the people of Portugal to be so nice.
BTW, we also had dinner at Bonjardim one evening and it was nice. The waiter was very nice and was great with our kids. We found the people of Portugal to be so nice.
Jun 16th, 2006, 05:25 PM
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Jennifer, Jennifer, Jennifer- Your report and pictures are FABULOUS! I've been toying with the idea of Portugal for a few years now and your report, especially the pictures have sealed the deal for me. That's exactly where I will go this January with a few days in Paris. Of course I'll have to move into a bigger apartment before I go because I could just faint from the pottery! By the way your hotel in Obidos looked amazing. Thanks for the report, I'm off to find the Lisbon super threads.
Jun 16th, 2006, 07:04 PM
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Jen.
I have been so tempted to post a comment about your trip report, but I was determined to wait until it was complete.
First of all the pictures are fantastic.
Secondly, it is so organised and easy to read.
I am awe struck by the way you wrote your report.
I always skip around and never give such great details that you did. And they are so interesting.
Thanks.
Sherry
I have been so tempted to post a comment about your trip report, but I was determined to wait until it was complete.
First of all the pictures are fantastic.
Secondly, it is so organised and easy to read.
I am awe struck by the way you wrote your report.
I always skip around and never give such great details that you did. And they are so interesting.
Thanks.
Sherry
Jun 17th, 2006, 05:16 AM
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Thank you all. I received so much help right here on these boards for our Portugal trip that I wanted to make sure to come back and contribute in some way.
Nikki - On our last night, we had dinner at Cervejaria da Trinidade - location of the first LDC dinner. After dinner, Matt took us to a small jazz cafe nearby - I do not have the name or location, but I'm sure that's something Matt can tell you. We finished up the evening in the coolest lounge - I think it's called Pavilhao Chines Bar. Their business card says that they are located at Rua D. Pedro V, 89 - also in the Bairro Alto.
Nikki - On our last night, we had dinner at Cervejaria da Trinidade - location of the first LDC dinner. After dinner, Matt took us to a small jazz cafe nearby - I do not have the name or location, but I'm sure that's something Matt can tell you. We finished up the evening in the coolest lounge - I think it's called Pavilhao Chines Bar. Their business card says that they are located at Rua D. Pedro V, 89 - also in the Bairro Alto.
Jun 17th, 2006, 05:29 AM
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Hi Bailey! I haven't had a chance to read your entire report, but I have to comment on your pictures...they are fabulous!
The pictures of the pottery have me so very excited. I am now trying to figure out how I will cart some of those treasures home! Did you happen to price any of those colorful dishes?
Also, is an international drivers permit required in Portugal? We are getting conflicting information. Our rental car agency says "no", but some tourism websites say "yes".
Thanks for your help!
The pictures of the pottery have me so very excited. I am now trying to figure out how I will cart some of those treasures home! Did you happen to price any of those colorful dishes?
Also, is an international drivers permit required in Portugal? We are getting conflicting information. Our rental car agency says "no", but some tourism websites say "yes".
Thanks for your help!
Jun 17th, 2006, 05:56 AM
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seetheworld - Unfortunately, I don't remember all of the prices I paid, but I do remember that the large sangria-like pitcher I bought was 15E (it's about 12 inches high and 7 inches at its widest point). Like I said in my report, I found that pitcher later in Lisbon for 37E. Some plates I bought in Redondo were about 6E each (7 inches in diameter). I wanna say that those large plates and bowls on display in my photos were priced on the order of 20E.
As far IDL goes, we didn't have one, but before we left I do remember reading that Portugal requires one. I got the impression that they are not strict like Italy, but go ahead and get one if you want to be on the safe side. I hear that they are easy to get and pretty cheap - about $15 maybe?
As far IDL goes, we didn't have one, but before we left I do remember reading that Portugal requires one. I got the impression that they are not strict like Italy, but go ahead and get one if you want to be on the safe side. I hear that they are easy to get and pretty cheap - about $15 maybe?
