Will be spending an early August week in south of Portugal. Any advice on memorable places to see, great places to eat, experiences to look for?

I spent two weeks in Albufeira, Portugal in May 96. The most notable thing about the beaches in Southern Portugal is that it is a *huge* British expat community! Most of the bars and restaurants are run by Brits who vacationed in sunny Portugal, and decided to stay. I have to confess my fondest memories of Portugal were when we rented a car and drove to... the Rock of Gibraltar! That turned out to be one of my all-time favorite places in Europe! I actually live in Europe, and will only be at this e-mail address until July-29... I'm staying at my parents for a visit.

Dear Gil, Fortunately Portugal is not only Algarve and the South of Portugal is not only beaches! There is so much to see inland... Rent a car and visit the real country. Avoid seashore resorts, stay with inhabitants. In Portugal there is the "turismo rural" - farms partially converted to receive two to six guests. Even if some are palaces they are not so expensive at all. You can find more information and a complete list by region in http://www.infocid.pt/TurismoRural/HTML/mapa.html
Boa Viagem! Joćo

Mertola is a place you just must see. Rather close to the Spanish border, this village overlooking some river - i forget which just now - is extremely charming and has some interesting ruins. It's in the southern part of the Alentejo, a very pleasant and little touristed region. (Generally speaking, however, it's the northern part that is the most interesting.) Look it up.
Have a nice trip
Jens

You are quite right Jens. Mertola is very beautiful. The river is Guadiana, a natural South border with Spain for many miles. Up to the North there is Reguengos de Monsaraz, a must. Great fortress in the rocks, a little like Marvao upper to the North. These fortresses, first build by Moors - several are even Roman - where afterwards occupied by Portuguese and Spanish. Alentejo is very hot in Summer. Avoid July/August. September/October and April/May are best periods : no turists, wheather is fine... and in the hotels people have more time to look after you. If you decide for Alentejo, do not miss Evora - Unesco's World Patrimony and Castelo de Vide - spa village with a Medieval Sinagogue and Castle. If you need some other information e-mail me. Joao

Does anyone have firsthand knowledge of Coimbra and Guimaraes? Do they have good public transport, so I can leave my car packed at the hotel? I also have heard that in Portuguese restaurants, they bring you many side dishes (salads, appetizers, breads) that you didn't order, and if you don't want to be charged you must be very careful to ignore the dishes. Is this the usual practice? I'm going in two weeks, would appreciate a reply if someone knows.

We traveled 2 weeks through Portugal and Guimares was one of our favorite cities. We stayed in the Pousada and thought it very enjoyable - great service. I sent some clothes to be laundered and they were all handwashed - better than I had ever done. We need much of our shopping there - linens and the like. But if your there - go further North - Lima was cheap; nice hotels, nice walks through the country (always getting lost- a habit we formed there). But watch out for the salty food!

Forgot to respond to the side dishes at restaurants! I had heard that and we were prepared to deal with it - but never had the problem. However, we found the portugese truly friendly, helpful and hospitable such that at several small restaurants - they wanted us to try some special foods - at no cost! And when they say "fresh" fish - they usually mean it - the chef came out to check on our fish and showed us where it bit him! Enjoy - and don't pay too much for wine - much of it is cheap and good.

We understand that there is a "senior rate" on trains in Portugal. Is that so, and what kind of trains are they. Traveling in May, 98. Coming from Seville, ending in Lisbon.