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Poland and Czech Republic, September 2012

Poland and Czech Republic, September 2012

Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 11:56 AM
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Thank you! I'm sorry this report is so long. I'm sure people looking for restaurant recommendations or museum tips within will be disappointed, LOL!

No, I didn't do much research beyond reading lots of prior posts here and on Trip Advisor. I'm familiar with the history of World War II and the Cold War, but I probably didn't know some of this detailed history of the places I visited. Rick Steves's Poland Snapshot book brief but helpful historical summaries of all of the places he covers.
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Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 11:59 AM
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^*has* brief but helpful historical summaries...
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Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 02:08 PM
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I may read "Prague Winter" by Madeleine Albright, which I have, but I've heard mixed reviews or HHhH, about Heydrich.
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Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 02:34 PM
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Louisa - please do read Prague Winter - I loved it.

Andrew - I'm so sorry I missed Olomouc, it looks enchanting. I did get to Telc which you should try to visit on your next trip. I have to read your entire report when I have time to savor it. You did a somewhat reverse trip to mine where I started in Prague and ended in Krakow. I thought Krakow was so wonderful I went back again a year and a half ago and loved it even more.
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Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 02:56 PM
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Great report. Brings back lots of memories. Thanks.

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Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 04:20 PM
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adrienne: <i>Andrew - I'm so sorry I missed Olomouc, it looks enchanting.</i>

I didn't find it enchanting! Then again, as I said in my report, Olomouc might be different in the summer or perhaps when the town is busier. (Plus when both main squares are free of chain-link fences!) Sometimes our experiences in a place are colored by the timing and by our own biases.

<i>I did get to Telc which you should try to visit on your next trip.</i>

I did stop in Telc for a few hours. The main square is quite amazing. Beyond that, though, I didn't stick around to be able to distinguish it that much from the other towns I visited (other than the superior square). Trebon and Jindrichuv Hradec, for example, both have castles with big ponds that the nobles stocked with fish back when they built the towns.

<i>You did a somewhat reverse trip to mine where I started in Prague and ended in Krakow. I thought Krakow was so wonderful I went back again a year and a half ago and loved it even more.</i>

Krakow did not disappoint me at all - except for the weather! I'd go back and try to see more of it next time (having gotten the "big attractions" out of the way). In fact, I'd go back to any of the Polish cities I visited.
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Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 11:45 PM
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The photos of Olomouc looked wonderful but then all your photos make me want to visit places!

I loved Telc. I stopped there for an overnight and stayed two nights since I loved the ambiance. I was there off season and there wasn't a lot going on and it was dead in the evening.

I had bad weather my first time in Krakow - rainy, cold, rivers flooding and did the Salt Mine and Wawel my first time. The second time I concentrated on other areas and loved it even more, especially since the weather was perfect. I didn't mean to imply that you didn't enjoy Krakow.
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 06:02 AM
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Don't apologize. Your report was NOT too long. I enjoyed all the details as I too like to take pictures and am not fussy about food. Your pictures are terrific!

Just curious about your tripod. I am really lazy about carrying one and I think your pictures show the difference that one makes. Is it collabsible? How did you do it with carry on only?
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 06:49 AM
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Thanks, adrienne! I had thought of stopping in Telc for a night - I wound up in Trebon instead (also a nice town). Given that I stopped Telc at about noon, it made sense for me to keep going and stop later.

Irishface, yes, my tripod is slightly collapsible. It does fit in my larger carry-on bag. You can buy even smaller/lighter carbon-based tripods but they cost hundreds of dollars. Mine cost only about $150 I think. To be honest, I hate this tripod. It takes too long to set up and it's awkward to adjust. (I could tell you the make/model if you wish but I'm not sure I could recommend it.) I much prefer the larger Bogen I use at home, but I guess it's worth trade-off. My Bogen would never fit in my carry-on bag.

I do consider a tripod essential for shots at dusk and at night. I like pictures that are sharp and also not noisy (I could shoot at very high ISO but the picture quality suffers greatly). I expect to be able to make large prints out of these images. I wind up carrying the tripod often during the day, too, but I'm often too lazy to use it unless I have to.
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 08:36 PM
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Wonderful, Andrew. Poland has been on my wish list since I first started posting on Fodor's; your report and photos have reawakened my interest.

Thank you!
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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 03:38 PM
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Andrew, I agree with Adrienne that combining both Auschwitz & the Salt Mines in one day is too much. We were in Poland in 2003, and went to Auschwitz & the Salt mines on two separate days. The Salt Mines was one of the highlights of our trip. I would say that each excurision took up about 3/4 of a day. We did take a guided tour from Krakow (something we don't usually do) to Auschwitz & felt it was worth it. It was nice not to have to look for buses, etc. & our guide was very knowledgeable.

I am enjoying your trip report very much. YOu are a very good writer.
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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 03:58 PM
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We returned to Czech Republic in 2009 & in addition to visiting Prague for a 2nd time, we stayed in Cesky Krumlov for 2 nights, Telc 1 night (what a beautiful surprise, as Adrienne & you have said, the town square is AMAZING.). And we like that Telc is quiet. We also spent 2 nights in Karlovy Vary, which we enjoyed very much, & it's very different, architecturally & sightseeing, from Prague & CK.
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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 05:42 PM
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Kwoo, thank you for your comments. I originally intended to visit Karlovy Vary based partly on your recommendation. Given how I spent my time in Southern Bohemia, I probably would have been better off taking a day from there and/or from Olomouc and spending a night in Karlovy Vary. I wound up planning for a day trip on the last day in Prague. But as I said, the weather was rainy that last day, and I was tired. As a scenic photographer, I had already fought the rain too many days in Poland!

I'm also learning that I shouldn't plan day trips for very late on a trip. They take more energy and planning than simply staying overnight somewhere, and by the end of a long trip I sometimes lack the energy.

I opted to do the Salt Mines and Auschwitz in the same day also based partly on the weather: after I got back to Krakow from Auschwitz that afternoon, it was still overcast, and I had one last day in Krakow where better weather was forecast, so I wanted to use that time, if possible, to take pictures. (Probably a good choice: I had better weather the final day for sure.) If I had had great weather every day, I probably would have split the two between days. Most visitors to Krakow aren't as worried about getting great outdoor pictures as I am, so for them, splitting the two up makes more sense!

I still say the Salt Mines, while very worthy and awe-inspiring, require a significant time investment - and not everyone will find this a worthwhile trip with limited time in Krakow.
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Old Apr 27th, 2013, 08:25 PM
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Andrew, I just finished looking at your photos. You are an amazing photographer. I love all of your night time shots. And I can see why you enjoy photographing bridges. They are so interesting & unique. Just curious. . . where is your next trip?
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 06:45 AM
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Thank you so much for posting this, Andrew. I've really enjoyed reading it, and your photos are wonderful!

You have been travelling in places that are high on my to-go list, and now they are nudging towards the top. You can be assured that I will be following in your footsteps at some time in the next few years. I think Ljubljana may be first on the list (yes, I read your TR too!).
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 11:37 AM
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Kwoo, thank you for the compliment! I work very hard on these pictures, so I'm glad people appreciate them. My next trip is actually next month: a short trip to Belgium, Luxembourg, and (back to) Paris. Compared to Poland and the Balkans it seems a little less...adventurous? But I've always wanted to see Bruges and other towns in Belgium, plus I love Paris and like to get back when I can.

Hi Julia! I feel the same way reading your trip reports; Sarajevo is high on my list, too, having read your descriptions of it. (I wouldn't mind going back the Balkans someday in general - when I do I'll have to get some input from you!) I think you will enjoy Ljubljana - just a darling place with great architecture - but it is small. I enjoyed Slovenia overall and highly recommend it. I enjoyed the places I saw in Poland, too, but I saw so little of that huge country that I feel like I barely scratched the surface.
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Old Apr 28th, 2013, 01:00 PM
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I enjoyed your report very much Andrew. Your photos are wonderful, especially your night shots.
We are going to Krakow and Prague in September so very informative for me, thank you.
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Old Apr 29th, 2013, 07:56 AM
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Thank you, live42day!
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Old Jun 8th, 2013, 09:41 AM
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Andrew, I have been re-reading your report. We will have an o/n in Telc and 2 in CK, with car. Of your excursions from CK, did you have a favorite?
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Old Jun 8th, 2013, 11:35 AM
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I really liked the town of Jindrichuv Hradec, where I stopped between Telc and Trebon (where I spent the night before Cesky Krumlov). Rožmberk nad Vltavou, south of Cesky Krumov, was also a nice stop but very small. (I didn't visit the castle.)

I loved the old stone bridge in Pisek, but the town itself is a bit bland.
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