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Planning Prague, Budapest, and Romania (I know that's not parallel construction)

Planning Prague, Budapest, and Romania (I know that's not parallel construction)

Old Mar 7th, 2018, 11:24 AM
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Amy
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Planning Prague, Budapest, and Romania (I know that's not parallel construction)

...and yes, it does drive me a little nuts, but it's the most explanatory way.

So, this year my geography class chose Hungary and Romania for my trip, and as I've somehow not been to Prague (although wanting to since the 1984 RTB booklet from which we booked the USSR) I decided to include it. This isn't gonna be a leisurely trip, I can see, but I'm traveling solo so it's a bit easier to be footloose. I realize also that Prague at least will be very crowded and all of it hot as hades, but some of us have to travel in the summer, alas.

This is what I have so far: flying direct into Prague from Philadelphia arriving on a Thursday AM in July, I'll be staying near the city center in a boat hotel. (Because it's there. Albeit the size that "you might possibly be able to fling a cat in, if the cat didn't mind a few nasty knocks about the head." {HG2tG}) I have 4 nights there, leaving on Monday for Budapest. (Yeah, I know that it's stag party time on the weekends, but that's how it fell out.) So my questions for this bit:

1. Shall I do a food tour here or Budapest? (I am not unlimited in budget, I must sadly admit. And I'm sure this is pretty subjective, but that's why it's here.)
2. Monday to Budapest: go to Cesky Krumlov on the way to Budapest? I don't really want to backtrack if I can help it, plus I would think I would need Thursday PM, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday at the very least in Prague. It looks like maybe there's a train in to CK and then a bus out to Budapest, lockers at the Information Office? Anyone done this here, or am I slightly insane? I probably could do to and from Prague on Saturday if that would work better, or of course just skip CK altogether.
3. I'll be ruralizing and visiting medieval towns in Romania, so am most interested in Prague itself. What's your favorite place/memory there?

So, Budapest in an apartment from Monday night to Thursday.--3 nights, only two full days.
1. Any recommended walking tours that won't break the bank? Or is this actually a better place for hop-on, hop-off or the like (not usually my favorite, but it seems pretty spread out.)
2. Iconic moments for you in Budapest? I love history but don't spend a lot of time in museums, although certainly have enjoyed many for a short time. I like modern as well as ancient history; for example, two members (out of 16 total) of a group I was in on safari in South Africa lived in Hungary during the revolutions of 1956--didn't know each other before the trip. I find that kind of thing really fascinating.

There's a bus(!) from Budapest to Sighetu-Marmatiei; I'll be spending Thursday night to Monday there in the Maramures in a pension in a small village. I have a guide and driver for that area, so pretty well taken care of. (It's my splurge, as Romania seems not terrifically easy of access in parts.) Monday I'll be getting an early bus to Baia-Mare and a connecting bus to Sibiu, arriving late Monday afternoon in Sibiu and staying until Thursday at a villa/pension.
1. I'd like to do the touristy thing and visit probably Bran and Brasov out of Sibiu; any tour operators you can recommend? I'm okay with a big ol' group tour in this instance, as it's pretty touristy in the first place. Cheap is good. I'm no good for group tours for protracted time, but I'm okay with a day.
2. I'm thinking my other day should just be Sibiu itself? Or...?

Thursday will be train or bus (best choice?) to TImisoara. Usually I wouldn't probably add this on, but it's the location from which I can get to Bigar Cascade, which is one of the things the kids most wanted me to see. And the trip there only goes out publicly on a Friday; Bigar isn't possible via public transportation, apparently. This trip also includes the Danube Gorge, so that will be a nice finish. It looks like I can fly out of Timisoara on Saturday and get home via Munich. It's not that terribly far to Budapest airport (which has a direct flight home) but the logistics of that didn't seem to be working.

Thanks for any answers, help, smacks upside the head, or the like that you may wish to contribute after this long post! Part of it is just getting everything straight in my head. (Lotta buses, gotta say, but that's life when you don't drive and want to get to a lot of places.)
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Old Mar 7th, 2018, 11:29 AM
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Trains are slow but link the large cities. I took one once to Timsoara which turned out to be a very nice city - for lots on trains check www.bahn.de/en - all European train schedules easy to use; www.seat61.com; BETS-European Rail Experts and www.ricksteves.com. If taking many trains check out a Eurail Select Pass which can be very cheap in those countries - price being calculated on countries you chose to have covered.
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Old Mar 7th, 2018, 10:02 PM
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It seems the idea of the boat hotel appeals to you, but "near" the Old Town can mean unnecessary commuting time that subtracts from sightseeing. If you haven't already done so, confirm the location and its access to public transportation.

For this trip I would skip CK. In summer the town is most charming at night, when all of the day-trippers who crowd the streets have gone. With the 3 days (plus whatever time on the arrival day you have before jet lag sets in), Prague can easily fill it. I have been to Prague 7 times (I live "down the road" in Vienna) and some of my favorite moments have been early morning walks (0530-ish) from the Old Town to capture the light on the castle and enjoy the bridge without the crowds, as well as the city waking up; the view of Prague from Vysehrad (and Vysehrad itself); the famers markets at Naplavka (combine with Vysehrad) and Holesovice; and eating.

I don't have iconic moments for Budapest, just photos I managed to snap at the right time, like old trams in the snow coming across the bridge and particularly colorful displays at the Central Market, watching the Hungarian flag being raised on a blue sky morning at Parliament. The view at night as one comes up from the Batthyany ter Metro station (of the Parliament) is rather spectacular, I think. Many of the Metro stations, themselves, make for memorable photos.

I hope this is helpful. Happy Planning!
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Old Mar 8th, 2018, 03:13 AM
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Thanks so much to both of you!

Fourfortravel, the location looks pretty good--within a 10 minute walk to Charles Square, tram right outside the door. I do find the idea of staying in a "botel" oddly appealing, as I never have before, and this also seems to tick the boxes on location and solo room. I kinda thought that I should maybe skip CK, charming as it sounds; most places aren't at their best with day-trip crowds. (I was in Tallinn last year and loved the early morning/later evening times, while mid-day was a bit fraught.) And I will be sure to check out the Metro stations in Budapest!
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Old Mar 8th, 2018, 05:56 AM
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Great choice by your class! Budapest is one of my favorite cities. You absolutely do not need a tour, unless you want one, and certainly not a Hoho. Get a transport pass and use the metro and trams. Any guidebook will give you the "top" sights and you really don't have long. Do not miss an evening cruise on the Danube, or a soak in one of the public baths. If you like Art Nouveau there is plenty to see.

For some of my time in Budapest go here: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com/?s=Budapest

I have been to Romania twice, the first time in the north with a car and driver, and the second time in the south, traveling mostly by train and bus. See Roaming Romania, Take Two

I have been to CK, sleeping in Ceske Budejovice since it had better transport links, and it was fine, but for this trip I would skip it. Too much too see elsewhere, plus there is a sleeper train between Prague and Budapest which will save you sightseeing time and a hotel night. See: https://www.seat61.com/trains-and-ro...t-by-train.htm

Last edited by thursdaysd; Mar 8th, 2018 at 06:02 AM. Reason: Added train info
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Old Mar 8th, 2018, 06:19 AM
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I love sleeper trains but if never taken one they are not for everyone - especially light sleepers - always some noise from inside and outside train. But bring ear plugs and some local vino... very utilitarian all in all - great advice from thursdayds and 44travel!
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Old Mar 8th, 2018, 03:09 PM
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Prague is not large. The Castle and Cathedral are an obvious must-do, but also visit the Strahov Monastery afterward to see the famous libraries. The Jewish quarter is a highlight that is not to be missed. I found it very moving.

A couple of things less well-known:
We did a night-time climb to the top of St. Nicholas Church (In the Mala Strana neighborhood, there is at least one other St Nicholas in Prague). It was a beautiful view.

St. Agnes Convent, which is the site of an extensive medieval art collection run by the state.

Look for posts by UncleGus, who together with FourforTravel above have some of the most comprehensive knowledge of Czech travel on this forum.
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Old Mar 8th, 2018, 03:42 PM
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Thank you all so much, yet again!

Thursdaysd, I am enjoying reading your accounts. Your blog was of such great service to me for Armenia a few years ago, and I'm sure will be equally useful for Romania. And I'm glad you think Budapest was a good choice!

I have done the overnight train before (the first time was in China, going from Xi'an to Chengdu maybe?) And in fact I did an overnighter last year up to Luosto in Finnish Lapland. So I did look into that earlier, but decided to go with an early morning train instead to get me into Budapest about the time I'd be able to check in. That could change, though!

5Alive, the night climb sounds wonderful. And I'll definitely keep "czeching" out posts by UncleGus and Fourfortravel!
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Old Mar 8th, 2018, 06:45 PM
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Thanks Amy! And I think Romania is a good choice, too. Are you flying home from Bucharest? There are a couple of towns in southern Hungary with great Art Nouveau buildings, but if you are heading to northern Romania from Budapest you'll miss them.
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Old Mar 8th, 2018, 06:55 PM
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Yeah, I won't be hitting Bucharest at all. (And I do love me some Art Nouveau.) But with the time that I have (17 days total) it just seemed most logical to stick with the north. It looks like I'll probably be flying home from Timisoara via Munich--at least, at this point that looks to be the best option. There are a lot of ways to get back to Budapest from Timisoara, but the timing just doesn't really work right, so flying from Timisoara looks like my best bet.
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Old Mar 8th, 2018, 11:03 PM
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Re you staying in the Botel Albatross, if so I can make a few suggestions of places to go nearby.Don't worry about Stag Parties Prague is no longer the Stag Capital that it used to be and you are unlikely to see any unless you go into the British and Irish bars and of course the strip clubs.July will be warm but hot as hades I very much doubt it unless they get a heat wave but high 20's C and into the 30'sC more than likely. As for food tours they can be expensive but I have a friend in Prague that is a tour guide the has just started a Pub and Taps tour that might be fun. Jason is a lovely guy.
https://www.livingpraguetours.com/tour/czech-pubs-and-tapas/
if
you go to the photos on the tour page you will see one of 4 guys I am the one in the dark blue shirt.
Pubs are good places to try some great food, very cheap. if you try stuff from the "Beer Food" or Food For Beer" menu or some similar name there is a good choice of smaller plates of food both hot and cold though I find 2 plates of such food is plenty for a main meal.
On Trip Advisor there are loads of my Trip Reports on my various sojourns into the city but mostly about the food and the beer, though I have not done a trip report for a few years.
I am back in Prague next month for a week and then for a couple of weeks in August and then again at the beginning of October.
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Old Mar 9th, 2018, 05:16 AM
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I'll probably be flying home from Timisoara via Munich
If you are a fan of Art Nouveau can you possibly go Timisoara - Szeged - Budapest? See: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com/?s=szeged
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Old Mar 9th, 2018, 03:07 PM
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I agree with fourfortravel about Vysehrad in Prague. We were there twice,in 2003 and 2009, and it is one of my favorite places in Prague. In 2003 my daughter was studying in Prague for the semester. Her classes were located in Vysehrad. When we visited her, she wanted to show us her classrooms, so we walked to Vysehrad. I have very fond memories of slowly walking up the hill, shuffling through the leaves in October, and enjoying the views of the river and the city. When we reached the top, oh my, what a beautiful place with beautiful views. We loved the small church. I think it’s St. Peter and St. Paul, and we loved the national cemetery. It’s gorgeous. And it was not crowded when we were there in October and again in August 2009.

Other favorites: the Alphonse Mucha Museum, and the museum of Communism.

Also, in August it really was not unbearably hot.

Hope this helps.
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Old Mar 10th, 2018, 04:52 AM
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KarenWoo, thanks so much for the suggestions! It's good to have a general idea of where to go when wandering the city, and Vysehrad sounds really lovely. And I'll probably be visiting the museum of communism, for sure, as I find that an interesting (although undoubtedly difficult for those who lived through it) time in history; my first trip abroad was to the USSR in 1984.

Thursdaysd, Szeged looks amazing! Unfortunately, I have to be in Timisoara on Friday and have to leave on Saturday, so there's no schedules that would work for that. I have the feeling that I could have spent the whole 17 days in just one of the countries--in fact, I know I could have happily--but alas, my vacation time is limited. (I'm a teacher, but I work all summer, and I'm also a semi-sexton, so I should be back for Sunday.)

UncleGus, that's reassuring on the stag do's and heat (albeit 30's is quite hot enough.) I'm staying at Botel Matylda (or its adjunct, Klotylda, more likely) rather than the Albatross. I'll be sure to check out your TA trip reports, although I'm afraid the beer part will be wasted on me; I'm a non-drinker. (I know, I know, I'll be missing an important part of Prague...)

Thanks again to all of you!
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Old Mar 10th, 2018, 07:26 AM
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Must have no-alcohol beer now?
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Old Mar 10th, 2018, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PalenQ
Must have no-alcohol beer now?
To be honest, I don't like the taste or smell of beer, so the no-alcohol type wouldn't really appeal. Weird, huh?
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Old Mar 10th, 2018, 01:27 PM
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I loved Prague. Was there in July/August and yes it was hot but who cares. The only area that I thought was almost too crowded to enjoy was Old Town immediately south of Charles Bridge (and sometimes right on the bridge and immediately around it). I've stayed in Josefov, east of Parizska Street. Busy and touristy, but still very pleasant and enjoyable. I also stayed up near the castle, south of Nerudova Street, near the KGB Museum. Again, close proximity to the really crowded streets, but on a quiet nook that I liked a lot. In both areas it was easy to get away from the throngs and suddenly feel like you were in a normal city. Well, a normal city that looks like a fairytale.

Because it was hot, I tried to spend my afternoons in museums (especially those that might possibly have AC). I really loved all the national galleries, in particular the Czech collection the Trade Fair, though I'm not sure what's open and closed there now. I loved seeing Cubist couch, etc., and the building itself is a marvel of Czech Functionalist architecture.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nation...%A1c_hala3.jpg

Also liked Vysherad and several other things mentioned above (agree that the Jewish synagogue tour is deeply moving). I am a runner, so jogged all around in the parks in the mornings and saw a lot of beautiful vistas that way, before things got crowded. It really is a gorgeous city.

Enjoy your trip, sounds like a great itinerary.
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Old Mar 12th, 2018, 03:58 AM
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where you are staying is a good area and you should have a decent view of the Castle from there.Matylda is a few stars up from the Albatross and I am sure you will like it.In the area Naplavka there is a great saturday market just a few hundred yards from the Matylda,Farmers/Artisan lots of interesting stalls doing food ,coffee ,fruit drinks, wines and beers and I often go there for my lunch on a Saturday when I am in the city, there is even a little barge that has second hand/flea market stalls, often live music on as well , great spot for a couple of hours.lots of pop up bars and restaurants in the area as well, a real favourite area of the city for me.I was last there on the last day of 2017,freezing cold but enjoyed sampling a few free samples of the wonderful food on offer and of course knocking back a beer or two.
If you don't drink alcohol look for Kofola it is the local soft drink, the communist version of Coke that has survived the free market economy but for how much longer who knows, bit of an acquired taste but give it a go.
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Old Mar 12th, 2018, 07:57 AM
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In Budapest, strongly consider this, this, and this.
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Old Mar 12th, 2018, 12:09 PM
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Awesome, unclegus, I'll be there for the Saturday market! Sounds great!

BigRuss, terrific suggestions. The second "this" reminds me of one of my stops in Lithuania back in 2006: Grutas Park in Druskininkai. To get there I got dropped off of the international bus from Poland at 3AM; one of the great memories of my traveling time is wandering into town through the tall pine trees (without having any idea if I was going the right direction.) This one looks a bit more accessible.
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