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Planning Phase 2 - Campania

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Planning Phase 2 - Campania

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Old Dec 28th, 2009 | 06:12 AM
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Planning Phase 2 - Campania

Okay, you all helped me get started a month or so ago, and I've been doing my homework and have some more pointed questions.

It will be a 2 week trip, somewhere between mid-May and mid-June (I'll let airfares decide the exact dates, that usually works best for me). Two weeks translates into 12 nights of hotels (night one is on the plane, day 14 is traveling home). We WILL rent a car for part of the trip (not in Naples, for instance).

For a trip this length, I like to stay in around 4 different locations. So, Naples for sure, Capri for sure, the former maybe 3 nights, the latter 1 or 2 (would be interested in your opinion on that). I want to base somewhere on the coast for a while, I've read a lot of posts about the pluses and minuses of various places and I'm leaning towards Amalfi, but Positano and Sorrento are still in play. Then maybe somewhere inland - Ravello? Where else?

The order of the itinerary. When we went to Greece last year, someone on the Greece forum had an excellent suggestion - that we not start the trip in Athens - after the long plane ride, someplace a little less hectic seemed smarter. So we took that advice and ended up doing an itinerary of Santorini, Naxos, Athens, Nafplio, back to Athens for one night and then home. (I did a series of trip reports if you're interested in a Greece trip).

So maybe we should try to do something similar with here. We'd be flying in and out of Naples. We COULD start in Amalfi, say, get a car, stay a few days, go somewhere inland, stay a few days, then go to Naples, ditch the car, stay a few days, then ferry to Capri and then come back and go straight home, or stay in Naples one more night if that's how the airline timing goes. Does this sound reasonable?

Any and all comments/suggestions VERY welcome. I'm already thinking 2 weeks is not going to be enough!

Alice
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Old Dec 28th, 2009 | 06:33 AM
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I would stay at 3 locations, to include an apartment for a week in the middle. We too will be flying into Naples in May for 2 weeks and have rented an apartment for a week in Praiano after starting in Naples for 3 days, followed by 3 nites in Sorrento with a day trip to Capri. Look at www.summerinitaly.com for wonderful apartment options.
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Old Dec 28th, 2009 | 06:37 AM
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With two weeks, you might want to look into Ischia and a location near Salerno/ Paestum area--lots of interesting-sounding agriturismi in the latter area.

Did you read this:


http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...led-report.cfm

I am in the midst of writing a long overdue Ischia report; meanwhile there is quite a bit of helpful info on this thread and others:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...the-island.cfm
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Old Dec 28th, 2009 | 06:47 AM
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I would start in Capri (pretty easy to reach from the airport -bus from airport to port and then ferry) and end in Naples (again to reach the airport easily). If you were to end anywhere else you would have a long trip to reach the airport (over an hour).
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Old Dec 28th, 2009 | 02:15 PM
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An apartment is a good alternative to look into, we've done that before - although I'm not sure I want to stay 7 nights in one place. We HAVE rented apartments in Italy for less than a week though, I'll definitely check out your link, thanks Bob.

ekscrunchy, I have read with great interest some of your other posts, I will check these out. Are you recommending Ischia over Capri? I don't think I have time for both.

And I hadn't considered STARTING in Capri, another possibility to ponder. Boy, I always find the itinerary the hardest part of the trip. After that there's plenty to do, but bones of the trip are in place.

Thanks, everyone.
Alice
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Old Dec 29th, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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Okay, how about this? START in Capri, as suggested - 2 nights enough? Then to Amalfi, get a car, and stay maybe 4 or 5 nights. Then where for another 2-4 nights? Where in the Salerno/Paestum area as suggested? Or what about Ravello or somewhere else inland? Then to Naples for 3 nights (return the car upon arriving) and then home. Does this sound reasonable?

Thanks as always,
Alice
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Old Dec 29th, 2009 | 12:44 PM
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You do not want the car on the coast. When you say AMALFI do you mean the city or the entire coast--you need to be specific. I say again, you will want a max of 3 destinations in that area--where you start is another question.
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Old Dec 29th, 2009 | 12:49 PM
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Alice: My last visit to Capri was over 2o years ago so I can't comment. We chose Ischia over Capri last fall because from what I've heard and read, it is a little less polished and a little less touristy. But it would not be fair for me to say much more since I've not visited in years. It would certainly be simple to make Capri--or Ischia-- your first stop. Are you flying into Naples airport?

I think the town of Amalfi is a great base. You do read some negative comments about the town vs Positano but I wonder if those people actually stayed in Amalfi rather than just passe through. I don't really think I would stay in both Amalfi and Ravello--they are so close to one another and especially if you have a car....


The hotel I loved in Amalfi, the Floridiana, offers free parking, which would come in handy.


http://www.hotelfloridiana.it/

The problem is that I am not sure if you will find a car hire place closer than Sorrento. So perhaps you could ferry from Capri to Sorrento, pickup the car, then make your way to Amalfi and beyond.

Are you very interested in food? If so, you might consider staying in the village of Cetara which is a food mecca for the Coast. Hotel Cetus caught my eye in that town, although I've not stayed there.

http://www.hotelcetus.com/Intro.html



Then you could travel on towards Salerno, perhaps staying at an agriturismo such as the one recommended in the report linked above, or in a place like this:

http://www.domuslaeta.com/page01_uk.asp

A place I've marked in my own files in this B&B in Furore, which might be another option for an inland spot...I am just sharing, not really thinking how to work it into the plan. Staying both there and Amalfi, however, contradicts my comment about not staying in Amalfi and Ravello because they are too close. But it might be nice to stay in one coastal hotel and one inland B%B-type spot.


Truly, there are SO many winning looking properties in the region that you are spoiled for choice.

Please give an approximate hotel budget so that I/we can better recommend hotels and other lodgings. I was just throwing out some ideas based on my own taste, but really have no idea of what type of place you are looking for.


http://www.amalfiholidays.eu/en/index.html



In Naples, where you should probably spend 3 nights or certainly a minimum of two, there are a number of good hotel options. But let us know if you think you feel comfortable staying in the rather ratty historic center, or would prefer a more upscale location within walking distance. I've stayed in both recently and think that next time I will return to the center, or to Vomero which is up the hill.
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Old Dec 29th, 2009 | 01:38 PM
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If you are planning to go inland, you will probably want a car. Even on the coast, early in the season, many people prefer having a car, especially if their hotel offers parking.
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Old Dec 30th, 2009 | 02:57 AM
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On another thread, a poster mentioned that for 40 Euro, she had her car delivered to Positano from the rental office (Hertz) in Sorrento. So you could expect to pay perhaps a bit more to have it delivered to Amalfi after your island stay.


Here is the link for an agriturismo in the Salerno/Paestum area that was recommended on another recent thread; it looks really good. Although that area is close to the Amalfi Coast, it will give you a totally different experience. Not to mention the food!

http://www.la-morella.it/
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Old Dec 30th, 2009 | 10:51 AM
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So many good suggestions. ekscrunchy, we usually like to AVERAGE about $200 (that's dollars, not euros) per night. Some places are more expensive, some less. Last year we paid high prices in Greece in Santorini and Athens, and ridiculously low prices in Naxos and Nafplio. Since we're out and about most of the time, a luxurious room just uses up food money. I want something centrally located (so we can walk to restaurants), QUIET (I'm a bad sleeper), no smoking (if I can get it), and with AC. Breakfast included is a big plus, as is an in-room safe. We frequently stay in B&Bs rather than hotels, I really enjoy getting to know the owners.

When I say Amalfi, I mean the town, using it as a base. The prices seem more reasonable than Positano and I get the feeling it's a tinch less touristly.

I will definitely check into where I can rent a car. BOb seems very anti-car, but we do like to get around to places we might not see if we DIDN'T have a car. I won't plan to have a car in Naples (obviously), or Capri. Oh, and we're definitely into eating, and have a strict rule about not eating anywhere that has a 'tourist menu'.

No one commented about Ravello - is that more a day trip than a place to stay?

Alice
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Old Dec 30th, 2009 | 11:11 AM
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I agree that Amalfi is a bit less touristy than Positano which, to me, seemed like wall to wall boutiques selling designer stuff and really ugly art. But remember I have not stayed there in many years and visited only on a daytrip in 2008. I am sure when the hordes of daytrippers, like moi, depart, the scene changes. Also, I head many more voices speaking English, mostly American,inPositano when I was there, versus Amalfi, where we heard very little English at all. This was in late April/early May.

I've never stayed in Ravello. To me it is more of a daytrip place unless you are holed up in one of those gorgeous luxury hotels and just want to relax.

There are pros and cons of having a car, but overall at your time of year,I think it would be a plus since you want to mosey around a bit. You could keep it parked at night in Amalfi, for example. the bus system is pretty decent but the buses can be crowded and I felt we wasted quite a lot of time using them. We went to Cetara to eat on two different nights and it was kind of a pain to have to time dinner to finish by the time of the hourly bus back to Amalfi. BUT, if you move from town to town you would not have to travel to dinner at all.
I would not go to the Paestum area (other than perhaps on a daytrip to visit the temples) without a car.
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Old Dec 30th, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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> No one commented about Ravello - is that more a day trip than a place to stay?

I spent 2 nights in Ravello and was very glad I did - I found it charming and quiet, and the views were truly magnificent. I would not, however, consider it "inland" - its on the hills above Amalfi. I did not stay in a luxury hotel and did not just relax - I took in a concert at the Villa Rufolo, visited the lovely gardens of the Villas Rufolo and Cimbrone, stopped in a few churches (including the Cathedral, with its marvelous ambo), and roamed around town. I also walked from Ravello to Amalfi (but took the bus back).

Ravello remains one of my personal favorites of all the wonderful places I have visited. BUT (yes, there is a but) unless one's aim is to relax, more than a day or two might be too much there and I would not describe Ravello as an ideal location for visiting the Amalfi Coast because you have to get from there to Amalfi (or somewhere else) if you want to see other places. I don't mind changing locations frequently when I travel, so staying there for 2 nights worked out well for me.

Hope that helps!
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Old Dec 30th, 2009 | 01:33 PM
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I love cars--always have one on trips to Italy--just not on the AC--more hassle than convenience. Ravello is wondeful but too remote as a base location--do not miis it as a day trip.
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Old Dec 30th, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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yet another great thread with "food" for thought.

thanks alice for provoking so many good ideas.
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Old Dec 30th, 2009 | 05:53 PM
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Okay, so Ravello one way or another, maybe a few night, maybe a day trip. But is there a suggestion on somewhere really inland (since Ravello is not)? A place we'd use as a base for 2 or 3 days? I guess Cetara is one suggestion.

Also - are apartments always by the week? A few years back we stayed in an apartment for 3 nights in Verona and it was great. Were we just lucky?

Alice
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Old Dec 30th, 2009 | 06:13 PM
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Some apartments are less than a week, but it depends on area and time of year. Check venere.com.
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Old Dec 31st, 2009 | 12:35 AM
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Hi
We go to Capri&Naples every couple of years.Can recommend this hotel.NOT 5 star but clean,central and english is spoken.
http://www.hotel4stagionicapri.com/
You will need at LEAST 2 nights on Capri if you are to get a real feel for the island.
John
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Old Dec 31st, 2009 | 02:56 AM
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Alice: Cetara is on the Amalfi coast. But it is virtually untainted by tourism and is known for the quality of its restaurants.

The Paestum area could be considered to have an inland feel even though it is near the coast, you will get a very different atmosphere.

But all of these areas are quite near to the coast--check the map and you will see what I mean.

If you want to go any distance inland, you might look into the Avellino/Benevento wine regions....but I cannot help with those other than to post links of interesting articles/lodgings.


http://www.torre-gaia.com/resort/homepage.html


...

A poster on this forum rents a house in inland Campania:

http://southernitaly.wordpress.com/
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Old Dec 31st, 2009 | 05:45 AM
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Thanks for lodging recommendations, kybourbon and konsoomer. Thanks for being such a FONT of information, ekscrunchy.

I have read a bit about Benevento and the surrounding area, and might consider that - need to do more research. Paestum is intriguing as well. The venere.com recommendation is good, I forgot all about that site, I used it on earlier trips (I must start keeping better notes).

I will go away and think a bit, and come back with a proposed itinerary for comment - I told my husband he HAD to talk with me about this for a while this weekend. He's very good at not spending any time in the planning, but then having all sorts of other ideas after it's too late!

A very happy new year and good travels for everyone.

Alice
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