Looking for you Dordogne experts to give me some tips as to how to arrange our four day stay. We arrive from Paris to Brive at 13:00 (on June 27 )so I figure by the time we get the car, drive to Sarlat, etc we should just plan the afternoon (what’s left of it) and evening in Sarlat. Then we’ll have 3 full days/nights. After which we drive to St Remy.

Castlenaud, Beynac, Domme, La Roque – we tend to get started fairly early – on the road by 9, could do 8 if it makes a difference. Which order to do them in for best light (I’m a photographer) and less crowds? How much time total to see these towns?

Monpazier – Do you think we would have time to also do this on the same day? How about Chateau de Biron? What about Chateau Montfort? Looks like this is east of Domme, would that just be a drive by at the start of the day?

For the second day we’d like to see Rocamadour and probably St Cirq Lapopie. I’ve heard mixed things about Cahors but I would really love to at least look at the bridge. Chateau Bonagil – is that ‘worth it’? And could that be combined with the others on this day?

So – do you think we have two or three days outlined here? We do have three full days so can spread it out, or add in something else.

Any tips as to how to combine them, which order to see them in, which really need to be done as early as possible in the day to avoid crowds, etc.

Any other suggestions also welcome. Thanks

I trust you have a map. That should make it clear what order to see things in on that first day. Depending on the weather, the light will be about the same in all those places (dawn is absolutely stunning on a nice day, though...anywhere). It will be busy, but not insanely crowded, at the end of June, so just proceed in the logical geographic order. I can't see having time to do much in Monpazier (which is in the opposite direction entirely and will involve a half-hour drive) on the same day, though it will be light until about 10 pm, so maybe you could visit that in the evening. Biron and Monfort are second-tier sights. You have only 3 days; I'd skip them.

Your second day isn't even in the Dordogne. Why would you go that far away from all the wonderful things in the Dordogne when you're planning to head to Provence afterwards anyway and could easily do that on the way?

You've left out what most people would consider some pretty crucial sights. No caves or prehistoric sites? No Castelnaud or Les Milandes? No Sarlat? No markets? No museums? No river activities?

Bookmarking

Beynac will not be ideal for a photograph over the Dordogne valley because the view is toward the south; but not a problem if it is a cloudy day. Slanted sunlight (east or west) is best for La Roque-Gageac and for the Dordogne valley from Domme.

Well Castelnaud was the first thing I mentioned. And we are staying in Sarlat for four nights so I figured we'd have time to see it before and after our day trips. Markets and museums we do as we come upon them but don't usually plan activities around them. Sarlat's market day is Saturday I believe, and we will be there for that. That's the kind of thing I guess I was asking - does it make more sense to start out early on day trips and spend later in the day in Sarlat, or spend early mornings there and then head out for day trips mid to late morning when it starts to get crowded. I guess we can do some of each.

What museums were you thinking we should see? My research didn't turn up too much in the way of museums. But if there are any you think are particularly interesting I'd want to make a note of them.

I have to say I've been kind of turned off by the numerous trip reports to the region as far as the caves go. I do have the list and if we have time we will. Is there one or two you especially recommend.

And as for the river - I live close to two rivers and our 'go to' activity when we have visitors is canoeing or tubing so that would be less of a pull for us than some people. What we don't have is beautiful stone villages and hilltop castles (in fact we have no castles!) so that's what interests me most.

Les Eyzies has the national museum of prehistoric art. Périgueux has La Vésunna.

Caves: Lascaux II, for what the art is and the reproduction it is. Rouffignac for a completely different art (monochrome) 1 km. into the cave by electric mine train--an understanding of French is essential as the ride is guided and the hypotheses about the art is interesting.

<b>are</b> interesting.

Thanks Michael, I'll add that to my notes.

I would try to see at least one of the caves. Font de Gaume is intimate, requires advance reservations, I found it a highlight. Not sure what trip reports turned you off, but mine from quite a few years back now was raving about it. (You are forgiven if you didn't get that far, it was ridiculously long.) The other one we visited was Pech Merle, which is much bigger but has different features than Font de Gaume and was also quite interesting. Resrvations are available for this as well, but not as difficult to make.

I know that caves don't provide the kind of photo opportunities that you love, but I would try to get to at least one anyway. Looking forward to seeing your pictures, as always.

You can no longer make advance, or any, reservations, for Font-de-Gaume.

Here is my France 2012 report (with photos). Chapters Three Through Seven cover our four days and five nights in the Dordogne (based in Sarlat).

Personally, I enjoyed Gouffre de Padirac much more than Font de Gaume (and no I didn't really write on the bison at FdG). I, however, am in the minority on that opinion.

Have a great trip, and say hi to the ducks (while they're still living) for me.

http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/Tom_...ance_2012.html

I wouldn't miss les jardins D'Eyrignac.

I preferred Marqueyssac to Eyrignac, and it has better views.

I'm so sorry now that we missed Marqueyssac.

Thanks for the replies.

Nikki - I've located your report and will read it tomorrow. I don't know how I missed that one.

Tom, I did read yours while researching a while back - didn't you get yelled at by a guide at one of the caves? Guess I better re-read the report.

And I guess I better read up on Marqueyssac and Eyrignac, I don't even remember reading about them at all.

StCirq, what is the procedure for visiting Font de Gaume if they are not taking reservations? When I read that they were not taking reservations, I thought that they might have closed the cave to visitors, as has been discussed before. But the website shows the cave is open, or at least lists hours and prices for admission. I assume the number of visitors is still limited, as the site is so small and so sensitive.

"Tom, I did read yours while researching a while back - didn't you get yelled at by a guide at one of the caves?"

No, usually only Tracy, Kim or Mary yell at me while on vacation.

> I have to say I've been kind of turned off by the numerous trip reports to the region as far as the caves go.

How sad. I visited Font de Gaume, Grotte des Combarelles, Abri du Cap Blanc, Lascaux II, and Pech Merle. Font de Gaume and Pech Merle count among the highlights of my travel experiences - ever, anywhere.

> My research didn't turn up too much in the way of museums.

If you have any interest, I would recommend the Musee National de la Prehistoire in Les Eyzies de Tayac. If your research didn't turn that up, I would have to wonder what sources you are using.

Isabel, just to be sure, the trip I took to the Dordogne was combined in a report about London and France. I wouldn't want you to get too deep into the wrong trip report about France. It could waste your whole day.

Thanks Niki - I did read the two trip reports to the Toulouse area before I found the one that includes Font de Gaume. I see that you did find it worthwhile, but Tom's report was less enthusiastic. I do wonder about reservations since so many reports talk about how you have to get reservations a month or more in advance, but their website says nothing about that now.

Tom, I now see it was at Gouffre de Padirac that you got 'berated' by the ticket taker, but that overall you liked that one more than Font de Gaume.

Oh well, this has been interesting to do more research on the various cave options. I can't explain why I'm not more interested in them, especially since I have a degree in anthropology you'd think I'd be more interested than the average person, not less. Sometimes you just can't explain things.

But Tom, your description of your days touring the villages was really helpful, plus you discovered several that weren't even on my original plan so I'm going to look into them more.

Tom, I'm interested in the boat ride you took in La Roque. Was it easy to find? You did it late afternoon, do you thinks that's the best time of day?