I am contrite, StCirq. I shall no longer say, dor dough nya.

Julie,

A gabarre is a boat.

Thanks all. And Ira, thanks for getting me back to using Michelin guides. I've always used their red guides and used their green guides years ago but gave them up in favor of less esoteric, more chatty or picturey guides--like Cadogan, Eyewitness, Access and more recently Knopf city map guides. All of them have their strong points (love the "cheekiness" of Cadogan) but Michelin Green guides are certainly most thoroughly factual. I'm getting there with my itinerary, actually even seem to have left myself a day for just relaxing in cafes. Perhaps I will bump into TurtleMichael.

On last question if I may (and thanks TurtleMichael fro sharing your thread with me)--St. Cirq, can I assume that Les Combarelles is the kind of chromtic (or is that chromatic?) cave you find superior to the engraved ones? Thanks for all your help. I promise to report back. I'm usually pretty good about that.