Pedraza de la Sierra. With notes on Toledo, Caceres, Jarandilla la Vera and Segovia
Jun 1st, 2006, 02:01 PM
#21
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Hi Maribel. I do not own this book but have borrowed it from my library and liked it very much. I will take it out again and give the potatoes a try. I am going to hear Janet Mendel speak about her newest book (about the cooking of La Mancha) at the Instituto Cervantes here in Manhattan next week; she is promoting her book with a talk about the foods mentioned in Don Quijote. I think there will be some food available after her talk.
I am sorry I am taking so long to post the next installment of my trip report. But you will be able to read it very soon. Take care!
I am sorry I am taking so long to post the next installment of my trip report. But you will be able to read it very soon. Take care!
Jun 1st, 2006, 02:22 PM
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eks,
What a coincidence! I was just going to ask you if you were going to hear her at the Instituto Cervantes. Just read in the Dining section NY Times that she would be speaking there on La Mancha cooking. I have family ties to a tiny little Manchegan garlic producing village near Las Pedroñeras. Our little hamlet produces great manchego. Can't make it, to the Instituto, but I would love to. I know you probably read the Eric Asimov article on the wines from the up and coming El Bierzo. I also missed the lunches that the Bilbao chefs were doing for a couple of weeks at the Delegates Dining Room at the UN.
Maybe next year...
I'm paciently staying tuned for your next installment!
What a coincidence! I was just going to ask you if you were going to hear her at the Instituto Cervantes. Just read in the Dining section NY Times that she would be speaking there on La Mancha cooking. I have family ties to a tiny little Manchegan garlic producing village near Las Pedroñeras. Our little hamlet produces great manchego. Can't make it, to the Instituto, but I would love to. I know you probably read the Eric Asimov article on the wines from the up and coming El Bierzo. I also missed the lunches that the Bilbao chefs were doing for a couple of weeks at the Delegates Dining Room at the UN.
Maybe next year...
I'm paciently staying tuned for your next installment!
Jun 1st, 2006, 03:02 PM
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Kenderina, many thanks for the pollen information. I will take a spoonful in the mornings for as long as the rather small jar lasts and report back on the results! I am still wondering if I can use it to scatter over a salad but I suppose I will have to try that as well..perhaps tomorrow. I am not sure if I mentioned this but Mario Batali uses fennel pollen on salads in his Casa Mono Spanish place in New York with good results but I am not sure if mine is fennel pollen or just...regular pollen. OOOps..I think I have written this earlier....
Maribel: I did read the Eric Asimov wine article yesterday. There is so much for me to learn about the wines of Spain. This weekend I sampled a very nice wine from Jumilla, Altos de la Hoya, as well as a verdejo from Rueda, Aura Verdejo. of which my friends ewere quite enamored. I was pleased with both of these, although I favor Albarino among the whites. I am on the lookout for the Granbazan Albarino which was discussed with great fervor in one of the wine articles contained in the Collected Traveler Northern Spain series...will have to do some research on this; meanwhile, if you have this book, you might be interested in the piece.
Anyway...I will do my best to write a brief next installment later tonight. Let me begin by mentioning the difficult choice we often face on whether or not to dine at the Paradors. The paradors are consistently reliable for dinners, and their settings are often superb, but I wonder if it is sometimes the easy path to dine within the hotel and not explore further the options in a particular city. We did have dinner that night in the Parador at Caceres and it was very good but perhaps I made an error in not trying the Figon de Eustaquio which seemed like a very cozy place with a very long menu filled with regional fare. As I think I said earlier, my companion does not share my zeal in seeking out culinary adventures, so we took the easy way out, so to speak, and had dinner at the Parador in their lovely garden which was scented with orange blossoms. (My first taste of migas will be discussed in the next installment...)After a long day driving and.or seeing the sights, the parador is often the most convenient choice as well. I wonder about your opinion on this subject.....
Well with that brief note and query, I will leave you now to prepare my own dinner...to be continued in not too long...
Maribel: I did read the Eric Asimov wine article yesterday. There is so much for me to learn about the wines of Spain. This weekend I sampled a very nice wine from Jumilla, Altos de la Hoya, as well as a verdejo from Rueda, Aura Verdejo. of which my friends ewere quite enamored. I was pleased with both of these, although I favor Albarino among the whites. I am on the lookout for the Granbazan Albarino which was discussed with great fervor in one of the wine articles contained in the Collected Traveler Northern Spain series...will have to do some research on this; meanwhile, if you have this book, you might be interested in the piece.
Anyway...I will do my best to write a brief next installment later tonight. Let me begin by mentioning the difficult choice we often face on whether or not to dine at the Paradors. The paradors are consistently reliable for dinners, and their settings are often superb, but I wonder if it is sometimes the easy path to dine within the hotel and not explore further the options in a particular city. We did have dinner that night in the Parador at Caceres and it was very good but perhaps I made an error in not trying the Figon de Eustaquio which seemed like a very cozy place with a very long menu filled with regional fare. As I think I said earlier, my companion does not share my zeal in seeking out culinary adventures, so we took the easy way out, so to speak, and had dinner at the Parador in their lovely garden which was scented with orange blossoms. (My first taste of migas will be discussed in the next installment...)After a long day driving and.or seeing the sights, the parador is often the most convenient choice as well. I wonder about your opinion on this subject.....
Well with that brief note and query, I will leave you now to prepare my own dinner...to be continued in not too long...
Jun 1st, 2006, 04:25 PM
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ekscrunchy- in answer to your query.
We are food people (we as in many Fodorites, and we as in you and me), and food people think about this kind of thing. I have devised a sort of dining hierarchy. If I am really hungry, then I will make a quick decision and if that can be a good and picturesque place (like a parador that I am staying in) then I am in. However, if I am not in a hurry to eat and have 2 good options, one convenient, one not so (but could be interesting) then I will always take the long way unless I am with someone who thinkgs otherwise. For me there is just nothing worse than a stressful dinner, and having trouble finding a restaurant or being irritable and hungry and trying to find it are sure ways to add tension.
So, if you had a good meal then don't think of what could have been, but what was, and if the meal did not turn out well, don't blame anyone. You win some, you lose some, but if the conversation was good and the food, too, then you have won.
We are food people (we as in many Fodorites, and we as in you and me), and food people think about this kind of thing. I have devised a sort of dining hierarchy. If I am really hungry, then I will make a quick decision and if that can be a good and picturesque place (like a parador that I am staying in) then I am in. However, if I am not in a hurry to eat and have 2 good options, one convenient, one not so (but could be interesting) then I will always take the long way unless I am with someone who thinkgs otherwise. For me there is just nothing worse than a stressful dinner, and having trouble finding a restaurant or being irritable and hungry and trying to find it are sure ways to add tension.
So, if you had a good meal then don't think of what could have been, but what was, and if the meal did not turn out well, don't blame anyone. You win some, you lose some, but if the conversation was good and the food, too, then you have won.
Jun 2nd, 2006, 02:07 PM
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To complete my brief report on Caceres:
....after sampling the Torta del Casar and the jamon Iberico at Meson San Juan, our first stop was a few steps away. Pintores, #30 is the address of Gabriel Mostazo. This amazing shop deserves a place in the pantheon of European food shops. It is absolutely packed to the rafters with the most delightful array of edible Extremeno products. Jamones hang in the rear of the shop, imparting an irrestistible aroma to the place. Every spare inch is laden with meats representing every possible permutation of the Iberian pig; rounds of Torta del Casar from several producers and many other regional cheeses; liqueurs from the Jerte Valley; wines from many regions of Spain; honeys from Las Hurdes; jams and jellies; pollens; membrillos and other fruit spreads; and of course the delightfully designed tins of smoked pimenton from the La Vera Valley. These make the most delightful and inexpensive gifts; not only is this a magical ingredient but the tins bear intricate and lovely drawings and are handy even when empty! Up until recently, the only Spanish paprika I used in my kitchen was the unsmoked from Murcia which, while wonderful, lacks the smash of the La Vera Valley smoked pimenton, which is available in dulce, picante, and agridulce versions (sweet, spicy and sweet-sour). The peppers that produce this spice are native to the New World and were first brought back to Spain by the conquistadores..another small example of how history impacts cuisine in fascinating ways.
Gabriel Mostazo offers vacuum-packing of jamones, sausages, and other meats and cheeses, and many of these are already sealed in vacuum packs for easy transport. The saleswoman was most friendly and informative and I could have passed hours this store which, as I have written, is a must stop for any visitor interested in food.
www.gabrielmostazo.com
Not far away (I am sorry I do not have the exact address) across from a large theatre, is a handcrafts emporium focusing on the many items produced in the region from interesting leather designs to terra cotta pots to laces and copperware. I did not take notes, nor did I take a card, but this place looks as if it may be a government sponsored shop. There is an excellent overview of Extremeno crafts sold at modest prices.
After a short visit, we made our way back to the Parador. As I noted earlier, we chose to have dinner here. The paradors may not make the most daring dining venue but the settings are always lovely and the Caceres parador was no exception. we sat at umbrella shaded tables in the garden (there is also a handsome dining room.) We began with Zorongollo, a cold salad of smoked red peppers dressed with vinegar of Jerez, and a serving of Migas (bread crumbs). The famous local example of the "cuisine of poverty," the Migas served at the parador are a marvel: a mound of these garlic-infused toasted breadcrumbs surrounded by a sampler of local meats including morcilla and chorizo and a poached egg. We continued with grilled calamari (not local, I know but sparkling fresh and delicious) and lion of pork. I cannot remember the wine or the dessert but the dinner cost a reasonable 65Euro for two. For anyone unfamiliar with the paradors, I will say that they always offer a prix fixe dinner with several choices, including regional dishes, that represents excellent value. The service is uniformly good and the settings are often superb.
After dinner, a walk through the cobbled streets in the environs of the hotel, closed our day in Caceres.
I should mention here that Caceres is home to a restaurant that is very highly regarded throughout Spain, Atrio. This is a short drive from the parador following the well-posted signs.
...to be continued. Next stop: Jarandilla La Vera.
....after sampling the Torta del Casar and the jamon Iberico at Meson San Juan, our first stop was a few steps away. Pintores, #30 is the address of Gabriel Mostazo. This amazing shop deserves a place in the pantheon of European food shops. It is absolutely packed to the rafters with the most delightful array of edible Extremeno products. Jamones hang in the rear of the shop, imparting an irrestistible aroma to the place. Every spare inch is laden with meats representing every possible permutation of the Iberian pig; rounds of Torta del Casar from several producers and many other regional cheeses; liqueurs from the Jerte Valley; wines from many regions of Spain; honeys from Las Hurdes; jams and jellies; pollens; membrillos and other fruit spreads; and of course the delightfully designed tins of smoked pimenton from the La Vera Valley. These make the most delightful and inexpensive gifts; not only is this a magical ingredient but the tins bear intricate and lovely drawings and are handy even when empty! Up until recently, the only Spanish paprika I used in my kitchen was the unsmoked from Murcia which, while wonderful, lacks the smash of the La Vera Valley smoked pimenton, which is available in dulce, picante, and agridulce versions (sweet, spicy and sweet-sour). The peppers that produce this spice are native to the New World and were first brought back to Spain by the conquistadores..another small example of how history impacts cuisine in fascinating ways.
Gabriel Mostazo offers vacuum-packing of jamones, sausages, and other meats and cheeses, and many of these are already sealed in vacuum packs for easy transport. The saleswoman was most friendly and informative and I could have passed hours this store which, as I have written, is a must stop for any visitor interested in food.
www.gabrielmostazo.com
Not far away (I am sorry I do not have the exact address) across from a large theatre, is a handcrafts emporium focusing on the many items produced in the region from interesting leather designs to terra cotta pots to laces and copperware. I did not take notes, nor did I take a card, but this place looks as if it may be a government sponsored shop. There is an excellent overview of Extremeno crafts sold at modest prices.
After a short visit, we made our way back to the Parador. As I noted earlier, we chose to have dinner here. The paradors may not make the most daring dining venue but the settings are always lovely and the Caceres parador was no exception. we sat at umbrella shaded tables in the garden (there is also a handsome dining room.) We began with Zorongollo, a cold salad of smoked red peppers dressed with vinegar of Jerez, and a serving of Migas (bread crumbs). The famous local example of the "cuisine of poverty," the Migas served at the parador are a marvel: a mound of these garlic-infused toasted breadcrumbs surrounded by a sampler of local meats including morcilla and chorizo and a poached egg. We continued with grilled calamari (not local, I know but sparkling fresh and delicious) and lion of pork. I cannot remember the wine or the dessert but the dinner cost a reasonable 65Euro for two. For anyone unfamiliar with the paradors, I will say that they always offer a prix fixe dinner with several choices, including regional dishes, that represents excellent value. The service is uniformly good and the settings are often superb.
After dinner, a walk through the cobbled streets in the environs of the hotel, closed our day in Caceres.
I should mention here that Caceres is home to a restaurant that is very highly regarded throughout Spain, Atrio. This is a short drive from the parador following the well-posted signs.
...to be continued. Next stop: Jarandilla La Vera.
Jun 3rd, 2006, 04:55 AM
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Annablle, I do not know the secret to making the Migas but I am "all ears," as they say, waiting for you to tell me if you don't mind! I think I read that anis is sometimes used.....this was a truly great dish both in taste and the way it speaks to the region in which it originated.
When I think of it I cannot help recalling the answer I got on another message board in response to my question about eating in Extremadura. The person who answered my query offered something like
".....don't expect great food in Extremadura. What can you expect from a region in which their most emblematic dish is toasted bread crumbs.."
You can imagine how this response was pounced on by posters more knowledgeable about Spanish food. Now I can't help chuckling to myself when I think of it.
When I think of it I cannot help recalling the answer I got on another message board in response to my question about eating in Extremadura. The person who answered my query offered something like
".....don't expect great food in Extremadura. What can you expect from a region in which their most emblematic dish is toasted bread crumbs.."
You can imagine how this response was pounced on by posters more knowledgeable about Spanish food. Now I can't help chuckling to myself when I think of it.
Jun 3rd, 2006, 10:23 AM
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eskcrunchy,
I'm loving your fantastic description of dining in Extremadura on the humble and filling "cuisine of poverty". We eat many of those dishes in La Mancha as well.
We did exactly the same-based in the Paradors, and to save euros, opted for the Especial dos noches (Special 2 night plan) which included half board at a 20% discount, mixing it with the 5 night plan.
Therefore, most of our lunches or dinners we took in the beautiful Parador dining rooms, which are particularly atmospheric in Extremadura (the 15th refectory d.r. in Plasencia is absolutely stunning, for the well preserved tile work, the soaring ceilings, the monastic feel-it's a wow!) We sampled the "migas", "caldereta/frito de cabrito" (goat), lots of "zorongollo", "patatas revolconas", "tencas" (local fish) and every pork product imaginable!
Speaking of recipes, in addition to Anya von's , I found a good recipe in English for "zorongollo" in Barrenechea's "Cuisines of Spain" (which they probably have in your library) and also one for "migas" , similar to J. Mengel's. But I like the migas with ham and eggs best, but more caloric! P. Casas, my heroine, has a nice recipe that includes chorizo and pancetta.
Have you tried Anya von's "migas" ? I think I would omit the seedless grapes. Don't know if anís is ever included, but I think the secret ingredient may be the type of lard and that Vera pimentón.
We also shopped at Gamazo. Just an incredible selection, as you say. Friendly, too. and offered samples of their pork products, can't remember which, maybe lomo, but we were on sensory overload after my husband's birthday lunch at Atrio. Shoud have hit Mostazo before not after!
Ekscrunchy, we were also drawn to the wonderful handicrafts shop. I checked my notes while trying to finish an Extremadura file, and found it. it's right across the street from Mostazo on San Antón 11, called "Sala de la Promoción de la Artesanía-Diputación de Cáceres". Yes, esk, it's sponsered by the provincial gov't, so prices are extremely reasonable. It made a great gift stop. I bought lovely, hand-embroidered pillow shams with weighed little and took up little space in suitcase. I had to resist buying more since we were headed later to Talavera and Lagartera, my ceramics and embroidery heavens.
And it's easy to find-on the direct walk from the Plaza de América to the Plaza Mayor.
If anyone is tempted by Atrio, I'd like to recommend it very, very highly. For a 2 Michelin star, 3 Campsa "sol", Relais et Chateaux splurge, the degustation menu is still more "gently" priced that those in the Basque Country/Cataluña, and the service for us was exceptional. As the maitre saw me taking notes, struggling to capture in written form everything that was being served, he presented us a printed menu in a gift folder to take home, and they prepared a special birthday cookie dessert for my husband, after the menu desserts! And an added attraction for oenophiles is their top Wine Spectator award winning wine list-a huge 200 page book that we didn't manage to get through. We just order the house Enate Reserva '98 which everyone else was having (30 euros)!
www.restauranteatrio.com
The Extremadura regional gov't produces some extremely helpful spiral bound guides that we stumbled upon at the tourist office in Coria. The girls there were so enthusiastic about promoting the region-they filled a big bag with wonderful booklets, including a guide to "Gastronomic Routes", "Historic-Artistic Routes" , "Festivals", "Weekend Routes", "Tourist Walks", "Spas", "Ecotourism", "Museums and Collections". I couldn't believe the bounty, and they're available in English. If anyone is condiering an Extremadura exploration, I highly recommend ordering them:
www.turismoextremadura.com
Ekscruncy,
I love your writing, and I can hardly wait for Vera!
I'm loving your fantastic description of dining in Extremadura on the humble and filling "cuisine of poverty". We eat many of those dishes in La Mancha as well.
We did exactly the same-based in the Paradors, and to save euros, opted for the Especial dos noches (Special 2 night plan) which included half board at a 20% discount, mixing it with the 5 night plan.
Therefore, most of our lunches or dinners we took in the beautiful Parador dining rooms, which are particularly atmospheric in Extremadura (the 15th refectory d.r. in Plasencia is absolutely stunning, for the well preserved tile work, the soaring ceilings, the monastic feel-it's a wow!) We sampled the "migas", "caldereta/frito de cabrito" (goat), lots of "zorongollo", "patatas revolconas", "tencas" (local fish) and every pork product imaginable!
Speaking of recipes, in addition to Anya von's , I found a good recipe in English for "zorongollo" in Barrenechea's "Cuisines of Spain" (which they probably have in your library) and also one for "migas" , similar to J. Mengel's. But I like the migas with ham and eggs best, but more caloric! P. Casas, my heroine, has a nice recipe that includes chorizo and pancetta.
Have you tried Anya von's "migas" ? I think I would omit the seedless grapes. Don't know if anís is ever included, but I think the secret ingredient may be the type of lard and that Vera pimentón.
We also shopped at Gamazo. Just an incredible selection, as you say. Friendly, too. and offered samples of their pork products, can't remember which, maybe lomo, but we were on sensory overload after my husband's birthday lunch at Atrio. Shoud have hit Mostazo before not after!
Ekscrunchy, we were also drawn to the wonderful handicrafts shop. I checked my notes while trying to finish an Extremadura file, and found it. it's right across the street from Mostazo on San Antón 11, called "Sala de la Promoción de la Artesanía-Diputación de Cáceres". Yes, esk, it's sponsered by the provincial gov't, so prices are extremely reasonable. It made a great gift stop. I bought lovely, hand-embroidered pillow shams with weighed little and took up little space in suitcase. I had to resist buying more since we were headed later to Talavera and Lagartera, my ceramics and embroidery heavens.
And it's easy to find-on the direct walk from the Plaza de América to the Plaza Mayor.
If anyone is tempted by Atrio, I'd like to recommend it very, very highly. For a 2 Michelin star, 3 Campsa "sol", Relais et Chateaux splurge, the degustation menu is still more "gently" priced that those in the Basque Country/Cataluña, and the service for us was exceptional. As the maitre saw me taking notes, struggling to capture in written form everything that was being served, he presented us a printed menu in a gift folder to take home, and they prepared a special birthday cookie dessert for my husband, after the menu desserts! And an added attraction for oenophiles is their top Wine Spectator award winning wine list-a huge 200 page book that we didn't manage to get through. We just order the house Enate Reserva '98 which everyone else was having (30 euros)!
www.restauranteatrio.com
The Extremadura regional gov't produces some extremely helpful spiral bound guides that we stumbled upon at the tourist office in Coria. The girls there were so enthusiastic about promoting the region-they filled a big bag with wonderful booklets, including a guide to "Gastronomic Routes", "Historic-Artistic Routes" , "Festivals", "Weekend Routes", "Tourist Walks", "Spas", "Ecotourism", "Museums and Collections". I couldn't believe the bounty, and they're available in English. If anyone is condiering an Extremadura exploration, I highly recommend ordering them:
www.turismoextremadura.com
Ekscruncy,
I love your writing, and I can hardly wait for Vera!
Jun 3rd, 2006, 11:12 AM
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Maribel, it gives me lots of pleasure to read your enthusiastic responses to my ramblings. You know I did contact the Extremadura Tourist people through their web site and requested copies of their guides but did not receive them; the site has many good details and provides so many reasons why this region merits a stay of much longer than the short time I allotted on this trip. Thank you so much for filling in the blanks on the handcraft place, and on so many other things. I am sorry we did not make it to Atrio; we actually had a reservation for the second night we planned to spend in Caceres but had to cancel when we decided to add Jarandilla to the itinerary at the last minute.
If I can maange to complete a few of the household tasks I have set aside for myself today, we can continue our journey together soon......
Since I touched on this change of plans, I will mention that I always feel very secure and well-cared for at the Paradors. We debated cutting short our stay in Caceres to add Jarandilla; yet I hesitated because I was sure that we would be charged for the second night in Caceres if we left a day early, as their policy is very clear on cancellation charges. No such thing! The staff could not have been more gracious, allowing us to depart after one night without charge, and calling Jarandilla to secure a room at the Parador there. In addition, the staff at Caceres, like that in all of the others we have sampled, is exceedingly helpful with all sorts of details that have enhanced our stays in a place. I remember once reading a criticism here that Paradors were mainly patronized by wealthy Americans and that they were isolated from the "real life" of a city or town. Nonsense. Nothing could be further from the truth, in my own experience. Well I seem to have strayed yet again..I just wanted to go on record about my enthusiasm for these places which number, I believe, more than 100 now. I have many more miles to cover if I am going to get to all of them!
More soon....
If I can maange to complete a few of the household tasks I have set aside for myself today, we can continue our journey together soon......
Since I touched on this change of plans, I will mention that I always feel very secure and well-cared for at the Paradors. We debated cutting short our stay in Caceres to add Jarandilla; yet I hesitated because I was sure that we would be charged for the second night in Caceres if we left a day early, as their policy is very clear on cancellation charges. No such thing! The staff could not have been more gracious, allowing us to depart after one night without charge, and calling Jarandilla to secure a room at the Parador there. In addition, the staff at Caceres, like that in all of the others we have sampled, is exceedingly helpful with all sorts of details that have enhanced our stays in a place. I remember once reading a criticism here that Paradors were mainly patronized by wealthy Americans and that they were isolated from the "real life" of a city or town. Nonsense. Nothing could be further from the truth, in my own experience. Well I seem to have strayed yet again..I just wanted to go on record about my enthusiasm for these places which number, I believe, more than 100 now. I have many more miles to cover if I am going to get to all of them!
More soon....
Jun 3rd, 2006, 12:39 PM
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Hi eks,
I'm sorry the brochures never arrived! If you make a second trip, perhaps the Spanish Tourist Office in NY could email them with your list and get them for you. (ask Pilar)
Or email those highly enthusiastic girls in Coria. I finally had to say "Please, that's all!" 'cause my arms wouldn't hold anymore brochures, maps and posters!
They seemed to be hungry for the chance to talk to a tourist and distribute their wares, as not many "foreigners" make it up to Coria to their office!
their phone: 927 50 13 51
fax: 927 50 07 35
or email Cáceres
[email protected]
Badajoz
[email protected]
Merida
[email protected]
Plasencia
[email protected]
or Dirección General de Turismo
[email protected]
About the Extremadura Paradors-couldn't agree more with your assessment of their helpfulness. On that trip we stayed in Gredos, Trujillo (Cáceres required a supplement on our 2 discount plans), Jarandilla, Mérida, Oropesa and dined in Plasencia, Guadalupe, Avila, Zafra and Cáceres (just for coffee), and we were t aken care of very nicely, and these paradors during the spring were filled with locals. In fact, the bar in the Mérida Parador is a local hangout for merienda. And we belong to the Amigos program, so we've developed quite a loyalty to them as we build up our points for a free night's stay
We also enjoy the free parking and welcome drink afforded to all Amigos members.
Keep your very well-written "ramblings" coming!
I'm sorry the brochures never arrived! If you make a second trip, perhaps the Spanish Tourist Office in NY could email them with your list and get them for you. (ask Pilar)
Or email those highly enthusiastic girls in Coria. I finally had to say "Please, that's all!" 'cause my arms wouldn't hold anymore brochures, maps and posters!
They seemed to be hungry for the chance to talk to a tourist and distribute their wares, as not many "foreigners" make it up to Coria to their office!
their phone: 927 50 13 51
fax: 927 50 07 35
or email Cáceres
[email protected]
Badajoz
[email protected]
Merida
[email protected]
Plasencia
[email protected]
or Dirección General de Turismo
[email protected]
About the Extremadura Paradors-couldn't agree more with your assessment of their helpfulness. On that trip we stayed in Gredos, Trujillo (Cáceres required a supplement on our 2 discount plans), Jarandilla, Mérida, Oropesa and dined in Plasencia, Guadalupe, Avila, Zafra and Cáceres (just for coffee), and we were t aken care of very nicely, and these paradors during the spring were filled with locals. In fact, the bar in the Mérida Parador is a local hangout for merienda. And we belong to the Amigos program, so we've developed quite a loyalty to them as we build up our points for a free night's stay
We also enjoy the free parking and welcome drink afforded to all Amigos members.Keep your very well-written "ramblings" coming!
Jun 3rd, 2006, 12:40 PM
#32
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I am literally twitching for Segovia. I have loved the report thusfar and saving the best for last is reasonable (and chronological!) but God! I am checking in all the time. . . like I am dating your post and someone hasn't called back in a few days.
Jun 3rd, 2006, 11:15 PM
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ekscrunchy, I don't know the secret to making migas, I was hoping you could tell me! I have an idea from reading Maribel's comments that it is a more complex process than I thought.
This is so fun reading about traveling through Extremadura and all the input about the paradors. I traveled in Spain by car on many trips with my family when I was a teenager -- many years ago. My parents' favorite European country was/is Spain, and we stayed at paradors often, including two trips through Extremadura.
I can't remember all the different ones we stayed in, so plan to call Mom tomorrow and ask her. I am enjoying some great memories through this report, thank you! I finally made it back to Spain exactly one year ago. On that trip I really felt like I understood my parents' love for the country.
Can't wait to read the next installment.
This is so fun reading about traveling through Extremadura and all the input about the paradors. I traveled in Spain by car on many trips with my family when I was a teenager -- many years ago. My parents' favorite European country was/is Spain, and we stayed at paradors often, including two trips through Extremadura.
I can't remember all the different ones we stayed in, so plan to call Mom tomorrow and ask her. I am enjoying some great memories through this report, thank you! I finally made it back to Spain exactly one year ago. On that trip I really felt like I understood my parents' love for the country.
Can't wait to read the next installment.
Jun 4th, 2006, 08:40 AM
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Thanks, everyone, for all the positive comments. Annabelle, the idea about adding anis to migas is one I read about in Teresa Barrenechea's new book, "The Cuisines of Spain." It is interesting to think about the the role that day-old bread plays, not just in the food of Extremadura, but in othere regions as well. I am thinking about those two Tuscan classics, panzarella and papa al pomodoro, and also how they are used in Puglia with pasta and vegetables. I guess there are countless examples of this, these are the only ones I can think of right now.
Marbel, I never thought to ask Pilar at the tourist office here. I am glad she is still there; I met her years ago and thought very highly of her. I am the proud bearer of an Amigos card but I never seem to be able to use my points because they expire after a certain amount of months and I never seem to return soon enough to a parador in order to use them. But I do avail myself of the free welcome drink!
So....next morning at Caceres, guess what dish was on the breakfast buffet table? That's right, migas! And they were even more tasty for breakfast with an egg mixed in. The paradors set out lavish breakfast buffets; at Caceres the cost was 12 Euro per person. Fresh orange juice; cheeses (NOT torta del Casar, though!); various hams and chorizo (MMM!); tortilla; yogurts; cold cereal; all types of bread and pastries.
After breakfast, we were on our way toward our next stop, Jarandilla. By this time, preparations were in full swing for the WOMAD festival and Caceres was quite busy. Despite our rather poor in-town driving skills, we had no trouble exiting the city, because as we were getting into our car at the parador, I asked the driver of a small truck about how best to leave the city. No problem, he not only went out of his way to lead us through the maze of small streets to the edge of town but then stopped the car and drew a map for me..a palm tree and the bull ring were prominent features of this map. So with many waves and smiles, we were on our way. As I have written, the roads are excellent and beautifully sign-posted. We drove along the route towards Placencia; our route again skirted the Parque de Monfrague and we saw dozens of hikers who seemed well-equipped for a trek through the back country, walking sticks in hand. Around the Alcantara Dam of the Rio Tajo, the countryside is very beautiful with contrasts between the still blue waters and the greens and golds of the rolling hills. We passed a Roman bridge slightly to the west of the main road but I cannot find the name or exact location in my notes. (not Alcantara)
I was very sorry we did not have more time to do some driving and exploring off this main road and towards the Portuguese border.
Rather than drive through the Jerte Valley as we had originally planned (we were too late for the celebrated cherry blossoms and a bit too early for the cherries themselves) we decided to go to Segovia through the La Vera Valley. Much of this decision was based on the enthusiasm generated by Penelope Casas (I, too, am an aficionada, Maribel!!!)
in her wonderful guide, Discovering Spain.
So we headed for Jarandilla, where we had reserved a room at the parador. If you have ever dreamed of spending the night in a castle, look no further. The 15th Century parador at Jarandilla, Carlos V, is named after the emperor who stayed here while the apartments at the nearby Monastery of Yuste were being prepared for what would prove to be his final retirement. The castle with its turrets and battlements and remains of a moat, surrounded by gardens planted with orange, olive and other fruit trees, looms over the town of Jarandilla la Vera. Jaradilla is one of the prettiest of the string of towns strung out along the La Vera Valley, a region famous not only for the peppers that are transformed into the famous smoked paprika of La Vera, but also for tobacco and for cherries. Cherry orchards line the road winding through the valley and as we passed I peered very closely to catch a glimpse of my favorite fruit in the entire world. Many of the trees appeared ready to bear fruit but it was not to be until Segovia (!) that I would have my first taste of the celebrated cherries of Extremadura.
White-washed houses with red-tile roofs line the cobbled streets of Jaradilla which fan out from a pretty plaza. The parador itself hugs a beautiful courtyard ringed with stone arches. The public rooms on the first floor would make a convincing set for a film about life in a medieval castle..massive stone fireplaces, medieval furniture, iron lanterns, dramatic arches.
After checking into our room, we explored the castle itself, taking photos of the town and its resident storks, from the castle walls. The parador has a lovely swimming pool set into a grassy area but this would not open until sometime in June. (There are also tennis courts) Weather here, and throughout the week, was perfect..clear blue skies and temperature in the 70s.
Coming up...dinner...too many choices..do we explore the tempting offerings at the cozy Meson del Labrador down the street, or choose the dramatic dining room of the Parador Carlos V????
Marbel, I never thought to ask Pilar at the tourist office here. I am glad she is still there; I met her years ago and thought very highly of her. I am the proud bearer of an Amigos card but I never seem to be able to use my points because they expire after a certain amount of months and I never seem to return soon enough to a parador in order to use them. But I do avail myself of the free welcome drink!
So....next morning at Caceres, guess what dish was on the breakfast buffet table? That's right, migas! And they were even more tasty for breakfast with an egg mixed in. The paradors set out lavish breakfast buffets; at Caceres the cost was 12 Euro per person. Fresh orange juice; cheeses (NOT torta del Casar, though!); various hams and chorizo (MMM!); tortilla; yogurts; cold cereal; all types of bread and pastries.
After breakfast, we were on our way toward our next stop, Jarandilla. By this time, preparations were in full swing for the WOMAD festival and Caceres was quite busy. Despite our rather poor in-town driving skills, we had no trouble exiting the city, because as we were getting into our car at the parador, I asked the driver of a small truck about how best to leave the city. No problem, he not only went out of his way to lead us through the maze of small streets to the edge of town but then stopped the car and drew a map for me..a palm tree and the bull ring were prominent features of this map. So with many waves and smiles, we were on our way. As I have written, the roads are excellent and beautifully sign-posted. We drove along the route towards Placencia; our route again skirted the Parque de Monfrague and we saw dozens of hikers who seemed well-equipped for a trek through the back country, walking sticks in hand. Around the Alcantara Dam of the Rio Tajo, the countryside is very beautiful with contrasts between the still blue waters and the greens and golds of the rolling hills. We passed a Roman bridge slightly to the west of the main road but I cannot find the name or exact location in my notes. (not Alcantara)
I was very sorry we did not have more time to do some driving and exploring off this main road and towards the Portuguese border.
Rather than drive through the Jerte Valley as we had originally planned (we were too late for the celebrated cherry blossoms and a bit too early for the cherries themselves) we decided to go to Segovia through the La Vera Valley. Much of this decision was based on the enthusiasm generated by Penelope Casas (I, too, am an aficionada, Maribel!!!)
in her wonderful guide, Discovering Spain.
So we headed for Jarandilla, where we had reserved a room at the parador. If you have ever dreamed of spending the night in a castle, look no further. The 15th Century parador at Jarandilla, Carlos V, is named after the emperor who stayed here while the apartments at the nearby Monastery of Yuste were being prepared for what would prove to be his final retirement. The castle with its turrets and battlements and remains of a moat, surrounded by gardens planted with orange, olive and other fruit trees, looms over the town of Jarandilla la Vera. Jaradilla is one of the prettiest of the string of towns strung out along the La Vera Valley, a region famous not only for the peppers that are transformed into the famous smoked paprika of La Vera, but also for tobacco and for cherries. Cherry orchards line the road winding through the valley and as we passed I peered very closely to catch a glimpse of my favorite fruit in the entire world. Many of the trees appeared ready to bear fruit but it was not to be until Segovia (!) that I would have my first taste of the celebrated cherries of Extremadura.
White-washed houses with red-tile roofs line the cobbled streets of Jaradilla which fan out from a pretty plaza. The parador itself hugs a beautiful courtyard ringed with stone arches. The public rooms on the first floor would make a convincing set for a film about life in a medieval castle..massive stone fireplaces, medieval furniture, iron lanterns, dramatic arches.
After checking into our room, we explored the castle itself, taking photos of the town and its resident storks, from the castle walls. The parador has a lovely swimming pool set into a grassy area but this would not open until sometime in June. (There are also tennis courts) Weather here, and throughout the week, was perfect..clear blue skies and temperature in the 70s.
Coming up...dinner...too many choices..do we explore the tempting offerings at the cozy Meson del Labrador down the street, or choose the dramatic dining room of the Parador Carlos V????
Jun 4th, 2006, 10:33 AM
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eks,
Your descriptions are so beautifully written, bringing back wonderful memories of our exploration of the Vera valley. Want to return right now!
anabelle2,
There may be as many recipes for "migas" as there are for paella since migas are a down-to-earth, commonplace dish based ib day old bread not wasted and adaptable to the ingredients one has on hand.
Here's a P. Casas recipe (adapted for American cooking) for
"Migas camperas de la abuela de Jesús"
(Jesús being her tour bus driver and his grandmother from Herrera del Duque in Badajoz)
1 med. round, firm textured, day old country bread, crust removed, cut into 1/2 in. cubes
1/4 c. olive oil
8, long, thin, medium hot Italian green peppers or small sweet Italian frying peppers
Kosher or sea salt
1/2 lb. sweet, semicured cooking chorizo one half cut into 1/2 in. cubes, the other half into 1/4 in. slices
1/2 lb pancetta, one half cut into 1/2 in. cubes, the other half into 1/8 in. slices, then into several pieces
8 one in.-wide strips of sun-dried tomatoes
15-20 garlic cloves, coarsley chopped
2 1/2 tsp. sweet paprika (Vera pimentón if avaible)
8 fried eggs
Spread break cubes on a cookie tray. Allow to dry for several hrs. Heat oil in large skillet; sauté peppers over medium heat until lightly browned. Cover, continue cooking until softened. Remove to warm platter and sprinkle with salt.
Raise heat, add to skillet the sliced chorizo, sliced pancetta and the tomato strips. Sauté for a minute or two; remove to the platter with the reserved peppers. Add the garlic and the cubed chorizo and cubed pancetta to the skillet and sauté for a minute or two. Remove to another warm platter. Turn off the heat, cool the oil slightly and stir in the paprika. Add 1/3 cup of the bread cubes and 3 tbs. water and stir to form a paste.
Heat bread paste in the skillet, add the remaining migas, and stir to coat well. Cook over low heat for 20 min., stirring frequently, until golden and lightly crisped. Stir in the reserved garlic, cubed chorizo and cubed pancetta. Cook for a few minutes more and remove from heat.
If serving with the eggs and from a common dish, fry eggs and place them over or around the migas in skillet. Briefly warm the platter with the reserved chorizo, pancetta, peppers and tomato and scatter the meats and vegetables over or around the migas. Bring skillet to table and place in center.
About the bread cubes:
T. Barrenechea's recipe says to place the breaak cubes in a large bowl, sprinkle with 3 tbsp. of water and salt, cover with cloth and let stand OVERNIGHT.
J. Mengel says to toss the break cubes into a bowl, sprinkle with water, toss until they are dampened but not soaked, place on a dampened kitchen towel, wrap tightly and leave to stand at least 6 hrs.
Mendel and Barrenechea don't use tomatoes in their recipes.
ĦQue aproveche!
and eks, on to dinner in Jarandilla!
Your descriptions are so beautifully written, bringing back wonderful memories of our exploration of the Vera valley. Want to return right now!
anabelle2,
There may be as many recipes for "migas" as there are for paella
since migas are a down-to-earth, commonplace dish based ib day old bread not wasted and adaptable to the ingredients one has on hand.Here's a P. Casas recipe (adapted for American cooking) for
"Migas camperas de la abuela de Jesús"
(Jesús being her tour bus driver and his grandmother from Herrera del Duque in Badajoz)
1 med. round, firm textured, day old country bread, crust removed, cut into 1/2 in. cubes
1/4 c. olive oil
8, long, thin, medium hot Italian green peppers or small sweet Italian frying peppers
Kosher or sea salt
1/2 lb. sweet, semicured cooking chorizo one half cut into 1/2 in. cubes, the other half into 1/4 in. slices
1/2 lb pancetta, one half cut into 1/2 in. cubes, the other half into 1/8 in. slices, then into several pieces
8 one in.-wide strips of sun-dried tomatoes
15-20 garlic cloves, coarsley chopped
2 1/2 tsp. sweet paprika (Vera pimentón if avaible)
8 fried eggs
Spread break cubes on a cookie tray. Allow to dry for several hrs. Heat oil in large skillet; sauté peppers over medium heat until lightly browned. Cover, continue cooking until softened. Remove to warm platter and sprinkle with salt.
Raise heat, add to skillet the sliced chorizo, sliced pancetta and the tomato strips. Sauté for a minute or two; remove to the platter with the reserved peppers. Add the garlic and the cubed chorizo and cubed pancetta to the skillet and sauté for a minute or two. Remove to another warm platter. Turn off the heat, cool the oil slightly and stir in the paprika. Add 1/3 cup of the bread cubes and 3 tbs. water and stir to form a paste.
Heat bread paste in the skillet, add the remaining migas, and stir to coat well. Cook over low heat for 20 min., stirring frequently, until golden and lightly crisped. Stir in the reserved garlic, cubed chorizo and cubed pancetta. Cook for a few minutes more and remove from heat.
If serving with the eggs and from a common dish, fry eggs and place them over or around the migas in skillet. Briefly warm the platter with the reserved chorizo, pancetta, peppers and tomato and scatter the meats and vegetables over or around the migas. Bring skillet to table and place in center.
About the bread cubes:
T. Barrenechea's recipe says to place the breaak cubes in a large bowl, sprinkle with 3 tbsp. of water and salt, cover with cloth and let stand OVERNIGHT.
J. Mengel says to toss the break cubes into a bowl, sprinkle with water, toss until they are dampened but not soaked, place on a dampened kitchen towel, wrap tightly and leave to stand at least 6 hrs.
Mendel and Barrenechea don't use tomatoes in their recipes.
ĦQue aproveche!
and eks, on to dinner in Jarandilla!
Jun 4th, 2006, 11:50 AM
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...ok, time for dinner. During the afternoon's ramble through the narrow streets of the town (and the aisles of the small supermarket opposite the parador), I checked the menu at Meson del Labrador and it seemed very promising, with lots of local dishes on offer..a few blocks west of the Parador on the opposite side of the main street. However, once again the marvelous setting and the convenience of the Parador dining room won out. Dinner was served in a handsome, high-celinged dining room (drinks and lunch can be taken outside in the courtyard). We each ordered the "Menu del Parador," a reasonable 22 Euro per person for three courses. I began with the artichoke salad which was a large artichoke stuffed with morcilla and was scrumptious. I see from the bill here that my less-than-adventurous dining partner had the "seasonal salad" but I cannot remember the details of this except that he was happy. Next were stuffed quail for me, and Presa de Cerdo Iberico, which won top marks. Desserts were a cheese cake (tarta del queso fresco) and Natillas with Pestiones (???). By this time I was getting more than a little fond of the dessert section of the menu but, as good as these were, they were not as great as what would await in the coming days..Ponche Segoviano. (More on this very soon) And to think that there are people who think that flan is the begininng and end of the Spanish dessert menu! With the meal we drank Albarino, one of my favorite white wines. The Parador menus always have good wine lists which feature a rotating selection of local and other Spanish wines; the Albarino came from the section of "good value" wines and it certainly qualified at 10 E. a bottle (Albarino Vaitea). With water, wine and tax the total was 70.90E.
After dinner and a small walk to admire the gardens within, and the fountain outside, the Parador (a spring from which Carlos V drank during his stay.)
One of the benefits of traveling at this time of year was the length of daylight hours..darkness does not fall until near 10pm, allowing maximum time for exploration.
And so off to bed....after breakfast the next morning we checked out (double room with tax cost 138 Euro) were headed direct for the beginning of the Lechazo Trail!
The drive would take us east from Jarandilla through the La Vera Valley and its' string of small, picturesque towns. The cherries hanging from the trees were tantazlizing and it was close to the border of Extremadura and Castilla-Leon that we spied our first cherries for sale at a roadside stand.
Alas, no place to turn the car around (or so he said!!) so we continued on, sin cerezas for the time being. As the road passes the regional border, the landscape changes quite abruptly; near Arenas de San Pedro the road twists through thick stands of trees and along the side of steep cliffs in the foothills of the Sierra de Gredos. This is beautiful countryside and the town of Arenas de San Pedro, 70 k SW of Avila, looked like a good place to spend a few days on a future visit. This pretty town with a castle is a jumping off point for various excursions into the mountains and from the looks of it, a popular weekend/vacation commuity. There are dramatic vistas from the lookout points along the road. Nearby, as Maribel mentioned, the Parador of Gredos, which was the first established parador, would make another good overnight.
The road straightened out along the high plateau as we approached Avila, which is the highest provincial capital in Spain. Having spent a night here long ago, this was not on our itinerary so, after a brief pause along the road to admire the spectacular walls which form the only extant set fortifications to completely ring a Spanish city. There are apparently better vantage points from which to see the walls of Avila so if you make this trip it would be worthwhile to do some research on this. There is currently highway construction around Avila, (as there is around Segovia) so be mindful of this as you plan your driving trip in the near future.
The highway construction served to completely confuse us as, Maribel's Guide in hand, we appraoched Segovia and made our way on the Valladolid road in search of the Parador. We found the Valladolid road with no problem but the small sign indicating the turnoff to the parador in the village of La Lastrilla on the outskirts of Segovia, had been removed due to the construction project. No matter, after retracing our route (more than once) we pulled into a petrol station and received directions to our destination. The brief delay only served to whet our appetites for (the lechazo and) the astounding view of Segovia that awaited from the Parador.
Much has been written about the parador in Segovia and I vacillated between staying here on the outskirts and lodging within Segovia itself. Both have advantages but we were pleased that we had chosen the parador... the building itself is a very handsome rambling structure of stone and wood and expanses of glass. There is something that reminded me of Frank Lloyd Wright in how the building nestled into its environment. We were extremely pleased to be given a small suite with two rooms and a terrace froom which to drink in the spectacle of Segovia rising in the near distance.
......by now we are getting hungry again but must wait a short while...to be continued.
After dinner and a small walk to admire the gardens within, and the fountain outside, the Parador (a spring from which Carlos V drank during his stay.)
One of the benefits of traveling at this time of year was the length of daylight hours..darkness does not fall until near 10pm, allowing maximum time for exploration.
And so off to bed....after breakfast the next morning we checked out (double room with tax cost 138 Euro) were headed direct for the beginning of the Lechazo Trail!
The drive would take us east from Jarandilla through the La Vera Valley and its' string of small, picturesque towns. The cherries hanging from the trees were tantazlizing and it was close to the border of Extremadura and Castilla-Leon that we spied our first cherries for sale at a roadside stand.
Alas, no place to turn the car around (or so he said!!) so we continued on, sin cerezas for the time being. As the road passes the regional border, the landscape changes quite abruptly; near Arenas de San Pedro the road twists through thick stands of trees and along the side of steep cliffs in the foothills of the Sierra de Gredos. This is beautiful countryside and the town of Arenas de San Pedro, 70 k SW of Avila, looked like a good place to spend a few days on a future visit. This pretty town with a castle is a jumping off point for various excursions into the mountains and from the looks of it, a popular weekend/vacation commuity. There are dramatic vistas from the lookout points along the road. Nearby, as Maribel mentioned, the Parador of Gredos, which was the first established parador, would make another good overnight.
The road straightened out along the high plateau as we approached Avila, which is the highest provincial capital in Spain. Having spent a night here long ago, this was not on our itinerary so, after a brief pause along the road to admire the spectacular walls which form the only extant set fortifications to completely ring a Spanish city. There are apparently better vantage points from which to see the walls of Avila so if you make this trip it would be worthwhile to do some research on this. There is currently highway construction around Avila, (as there is around Segovia) so be mindful of this as you plan your driving trip in the near future.
The highway construction served to completely confuse us as, Maribel's Guide in hand, we appraoched Segovia and made our way on the Valladolid road in search of the Parador. We found the Valladolid road with no problem but the small sign indicating the turnoff to the parador in the village of La Lastrilla on the outskirts of Segovia, had been removed due to the construction project. No matter, after retracing our route (more than once) we pulled into a petrol station and received directions to our destination. The brief delay only served to whet our appetites for (the lechazo and) the astounding view of Segovia that awaited from the Parador.
Much has been written about the parador in Segovia and I vacillated between staying here on the outskirts and lodging within Segovia itself. Both have advantages but we were pleased that we had chosen the parador... the building itself is a very handsome rambling structure of stone and wood and expanses of glass. There is something that reminded me of Frank Lloyd Wright in how the building nestled into its environment. We were extremely pleased to be given a small suite with two rooms and a terrace froom which to drink in the spectacle of Segovia rising in the near distance.
......by now we are getting hungry again but must wait a short while...to be continued.
Jun 4th, 2006, 12:24 PM
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eks,
I'm loving this trip report--it brings back so many memories, and also makes me realize how much more of Spain I have to explore yet!
I was glad to know that I wasn't the only person not overwhelmed by the food at the restaurant at the Hostal del Cardenal (though I loved the hotel). I'm nowhere the foodie you are, but I was a bit disappointed.
Your description of the parador at Jarandilla reminded me so much of the one at Leon. I wish I could be an "amigo" (in my heart I am)--I think they are fabulous. I too loved the one in Segovia, as I did Leon. And your storks remind me of how much DH and I loved sitting in the garden at the Parador in Avila and for hours watched the "stork ballet."
Can't wait to hear about your dining experiences in Segovia. We had one of our favorite meals in Spain there at Restaurante Narizotas.
And Maribel, thanks so much for the recipe! As usual, you're amazing! Maybe one of these days I'll get the time to pull myself away from Fodors so that I can make it.
eks,
Thanks again for this fabulous trip report. It's going in my "future Spain" file!
I'm loving this trip report--it brings back so many memories, and also makes me realize how much more of Spain I have to explore yet!
I was glad to know that I wasn't the only person not overwhelmed by the food at the restaurant at the Hostal del Cardenal (though I loved the hotel). I'm nowhere the foodie you are, but I was a bit disappointed.
Your description of the parador at Jarandilla reminded me so much of the one at Leon. I wish I could be an "amigo" (in my heart I am)--I think they are fabulous. I too loved the one in Segovia, as I did Leon. And your storks remind me of how much DH and I loved sitting in the garden at the Parador in Avila and for hours watched the "stork ballet."
Can't wait to hear about your dining experiences in Segovia. We had one of our favorite meals in Spain there at Restaurante Narizotas.
And Maribel, thanks so much for the recipe! As usual, you're amazing! Maybe one of these days I'll get the time to pull myself away from Fodors so that I can make it.
eks,
Thanks again for this fabulous trip report. It's going in my "future Spain" file!
Jun 4th, 2006, 01:12 PM
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Artlover, I am so pleased that you are liked the report so far. Just be aware, you, too can be an "Amigo!" You only have to sign up..I think you can do this on their website, www.parador.es. If there is no place to actually sign up there, just write to them for their applicatin form (available at the paradors as well) and they will send you a gold card. You will also get coupons for discounts off room stays, free welcome drinks at each parador you stay in, and a newsletter of parador information. Also, the paradors publish terrific magazines with all kinds of articles and color photos about various subjects of interest in Spain. The articles are very well written; I have not yet found out how to subscribe to them, however.
And here I would llike to give my most heartfelt "gracias" to Maribel for her wonderful guides. Although I traveled with Cadogan and the Michelin green guide, the references that were most helpful, and the only ones I depended on in the Segovia area were Maribel's Guide to Segovia (you can download), and Penelope Casas "Discovering Spain."
So..a round of applause will now be heard here for Maribel!
More very soon.......
And here I would llike to give my most heartfelt "gracias" to Maribel for her wonderful guides. Although I traveled with Cadogan and the Michelin green guide, the references that were most helpful, and the only ones I depended on in the Segovia area were Maribel's Guide to Segovia (you can download), and Penelope Casas "Discovering Spain."
So..a round of applause will now be heard here for Maribel!
More very soon.......
Jun 4th, 2006, 01:17 PM
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So, I made a date with the Segovia section of your trip report last night. We were going to meet for lunch today, but he came in and was like "oh, I can't stay long, so you just get this little tiny peek." Then he left. But he said that maybe tomorrow. . .
Jun 4th, 2006, 01:31 PM
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Well, Claire, ..you know how some people can be about keeping a date.......I am SO glad you are enjoying...I hope we can all meet and discuss in person someday! Very soon.........te lo juro!
