What follows is our May 6-25 trip from Anchorage to Paris, then Normandy/Brittany/Loire back to Paris. It was our second trip to Paris. I know Paris has been written to death so will try to keep it low on detail. Also, we don't eat horrifically expensive meals or photograph our food, so if that's what you're looking for you won't find it here.

We spent the night of May 6 in Seattle just to make sure of catching our Air France flight. The next day we had a pleasant flight to CDG.

We spent the first three days at the D'Aubusson. (I had booked it last fall so of course it became $50 a day more expensive by the time we arrived!) The standard room was adequate for our 3 suitcases, although the chairs could use new upholstery. The courtyard was lovely. There were bathrobes, and double windows which kept the sound out. We were on the 4th floor but above the street. They had a lovely salon and fireplace which would be enticing in winter. Also, they showed me how to use the computer with the impossible French keyboard.

The afternoon of our arrival was the VE day holiday so lots of people out. It was around 77 degrees. Keep in mind we had 13" of snow in our yard 10 days before. We were on the edge of miserable! There were 2-block long lines at Notre Dame, which we didn't even attempt as DH will not stand in lines. The Paris sidewalks were a bit slimy but I didn't see any dog poop.

I think dinner that night was French onion soup on Rue de Buci.

Friday It was very hot again. The next two mornings we had breakfast at Paul's -- 22 euros for 4 coffee grandes and the 1 egg omelet. The mushroom omelet was perfect. The 'complet' was a bit too wet. Say what you will about the cliche, but we do enjoy the food and people watching at Paul's. A young French woman apologized for the taciturn service we were seeing. It didn't bother me a bit. I recalled the server from 3 years ago and if she can handle that many tables at once, more power to her.

3 years ago we did the Pont Neuf Vedettes and saw the Musee d'Orsay, but spent almost no time on the Right Bank.

So, we caught the Batobus at the Notre Dame stop and got off at the Eiffel Tower. After standing WAY back for a picture we crossed to the Trocadero. Now that was a HOT climb. From there we walked up Kleber to the Arc de Triumph. We were grateful to you guys for having been told about the (slightly hidden) elevator. DH has had 4 knee surgeries and hates stairs--although he carried lots of luggage up and down on this trip.

The Orangerie will have to wait, as we didn't make it through my full schedule.

There were lots of beautiful sneeze-causing trees in bloom--maybe horse chestnuts. Also the flower stalls near the Seine were full of giant white hydrangeas and rhododendrons.

That night we had dinner at Christine's. I had scallops in Thai tea sauce and mashed potatoes. The cost was not prohibitive--maybe like a very nice dinner in Anchorage.

We cooled in our hotel courtyard with wine, then later listened to jazz at our hotel. At 10:50 we went out on Pont Neuf to watch the Eiffel and monuments light up. It was like a truly magical party with people out everywhere cheering when the boats went by, etc.

Saturday Still too warm, but nice and cool inside the Cluny. I was pleasantly surprised it was free (although my MC bill tells me I managed to spend $90 there). I had been told the old building is part of the charm and it was. We both loved the Lady and the Unicorn and sat looking at the tapestries for quite awhile. I was surprised DH was equally enthralled. It was also interesting to see some real examples of things one reads about in medieval novels--gold bishop miters, etc.

From there to watch people and cars awhile on Blvd St. Germain.

That night we also had dinner in Rue Christine. Can't remember the restaurant--maybe Fernand's? I had incredibly good curried lamb on rice. One of the 2 nights DH had duck.

Again, jazz, and watching the lights. This time they included a motorcycle parade covered in strobe lights.

Next: Heading West

Sunday morning of what we didn't realize may have been 4 days of holiday for some of the French.

We took a taxi to the car rental (Europecar) near the Montparnasse SNCF. People we saw at breakfast from Australia were also there renting.

Our car was a BMW navy diesel with a stick. DH said it didn't use too much gas.

There was heavy traffic and tailbacks all the way to Vernon. Also, it was Mother's Day--do the French celebrate?

At Giverney the tulips were nearly done, but the peonies, clematis, rhodies and azaleas were all blooming. The bridge was drenched in clematis. I STILL want espaliered cherry trees.

Although my picture of the bridge has about 10 people on it, it is a neat shot. They all looked like tender couples with their heads together or checking camera settings. It was a bit like Norman Rockwell.

Finding Les Andelys by the route that follwed the river was not as easy as before. We arrived again at L' Chaine D'Or. I am wondering if they are under new management. This time the staff did speak English but didn't seem as friendly. Or as DH would say, the waitress there was almost the only unfriendly person we met in 3 weeks. I again had the tarte tatin with Calvados which was still incredible. I also had a filet with mashed potatoes.

When I bought a couple of red toile placemats at a nearby shop, I didn't tell the clerk I had been just sick I passed them up 3 years ago. It was nice to see they were actually made in France.

There has been some discussion of the current quality of L'Chaine d'Or. We had the exact same room as last time. Yes, I think it could use a bit of sprucing. Also, it could use a new mattress. Plus there was crackling as if from a rubber mattress pad. What's with that?

This trip we peeked in the old church across the street and were surprised at its stained glass. From the outside it looks austered.

Again, we enjoyed watching the river and the lovely swans and speculating about the house on the island. This time it wasn't raining and we got to sit out on the terrace and read.

Next: to the coast

I'm enjoying reading about your trip, HTT! Our room 3 yrs. ago at Chaine d'Or at approx. same time in May had a bit of a musty odor, and the hotel probably does need some sprucing up. But what a beautiful, tranquil setting!

Eager to hear of Normandy and Brittany.

We did this trip in September and am enjoying your report as it brings back fond memories.

Loved La Chaine d'Or. We landed the day we stayed there and the walk along the Seine was so relaxing and the day so beautiful. Had a wonderful dinner that evening, and only recall that we ate too much.

DH said he would still recommend the hotel because of the wonderful setting and the food.

I'm sure you dined at Chez Fernand, just a few doors down from Le Christine. It's one of our favorites and is always on "The List" for our Paris trips.

OK, I'm discovering that when I try to preview and edit, it bumps me out, then accepts what I have anyway. Sorry, my maps are put away, so you'll have to forgive mispellings and typos.

Avalon, thanks, it was one of the best meals I've had in a long time.

Grandmere, I remember when you got rained on in Normandy. I took a raincoat, rainhat, and even glove liners.

OK, I've lost a whole page, so bear with me if it shows up later.

Monday

We got a late start. The breakfast is still excellent.

We somehow missed a turn (even with the map, print-outs from via. Michellin and paragraphs from Underhill and Stu's itineraries.) This sometimes happens with DH driving. So, consequently we missed Abbe Jumieges etc, as well as seeing tht big bend of the Seine. Sorry Jean, maybe next time.

Therefore, I felt we had time to pull off at Pont St. Eveque (sp) and look around. However, the streets were seriously clogged with traffic. The town itself reminded me of Stratford on Avon. So, we left on a back highway and saw Beaumont en Auge -- absolutely scenic. The Normandy countryside between there and the ocean eas bucolic, blooming, full of cows, and very prosperous looking. However, we couldn't find places to pull over for a shot.

We popped out at the ocean and I enjoyed seeing the famous striped Deauville umbrellas. DH wanted to walk on the beach, and not realizing it was his last opportunity, we didn't stop. We drove the Grace corniche to Honfleur and arrived by 2:30.

By 4:30 we noticed that Honfleur had 20 minute tailbacks so counted ourselves lucky.

L'Ecrin was an incredibly pleasant surprise. Our room was upstairs right over the flag. I prefer to call it "Deauville Blue". The bathroom had obviously been recently and expensively remodeled and had a great shower. Unfortunately, none of the lights worked. As it didn't get dark until bedtime this wasn't a major problem. Probably just a fuse or something. They couldn't seem to figure it out. In the morning there was a rose-clored sky outlining St. Catherine's.

The little harbor area of Honfleur was also a pleasant surprise, althugh somehow I had expected to see out to ocean. There were lots of tourists eating outdoors and shopping. I loved hearing the church bells. We had streetside buckwheat galletes with scallops. I can pass on the buckwheat. We talked with some Flemish and Belgians at dinner.

An insert here: I can't remember where DH had oysters but he said the Puget Sound oysters are better and Alaska oysters are bigger.

We could have easily spent another evening there lounging around the lovely back garden. It was still warm and we sat around with our books, Sancerre and Calvados.

Enjoying, and looking forward to your experiences of Brittany!

Two things I forgot to mention:
although I got some great pictures, I'm still in the pre-digital dark ages, so I won't be putting them online.

Secondly, I studies French tapes, Capretz videos, books, a few classes, etc, for about 10 years and felt proficient in ordering my own food. It was dispiriting to me that the minute a waiter saw my curly blond hair, they showed up with an English menu.

Tuesday

Breakfast was good, but we were too early to see other guests. The geraniums in the sunroom were ceiling high and in full bloom. The guy running the hotel seemed to have a sense of humor. As DH said, he helps make it a place you'd want to return to.

We drove the back roads route de cider past L'Evaque and Lisieux, to Beaven au Auge which, though larger, was actually not as scenic as Beaumont Au Auge. We bought two teal towels and cider.

On to Chateau de Sully which was easy to find (between Bayeaux and Port de Bessin (or Bressin?)

Most of the staff spoke English and were nice. There was computer access, a swim pool which we didn't use, and pretty grounds. The room was a bit of a disappointment--probably because this is a big tourist area--for the price. Things kept sliding off the bedside table and there was no room to leave suitcases open. The breakfast waitress was 20 minutes late in starting one day. (I heard people saying they were afraid they'd miss their D-Day van pick-up).

That evening we ate a bite in Bayeux. We were early enough that Le Petite Bistro was closed. DH zipped me through my $27 tour of the tapestry which was irritating. We did walk around the inside of the cathedral with brilliant sun coming through the stained glass.

P.S. He is a nice guy; he was just making a lot of concessions to drive me around France when his idea of a vacation is to sit for 2 weeks under 1 palm tree on Maui!

That evening we had wine and books in the bar and watched the red sun set out over the ocean. We chatted with a Swiss widower who was traveling along the ocean with his daughter.

Next: Authentic D-Day weather

Errors: studied, not studies

tea towels, not teal towels

and it was Pont L'Eveque

As I mentioned, I can't seem to edit in the 'preview my reply'.

What room number did you stay in at LA CHAINE D'OR?

Cparis, oops, I see I was responding to your post before reading what you wrote on mine. I'm pretty sure it was room #10. As far as I'm concerned, the favorable attributes there still outweigh any unfavorable--and the room is huge.

Wednesday

It was raining when we left after our giant breakfast for the D-Day beaches. It rained very hard, then let up when we reached the American cemetery and Omaha Beach. Looking down the cliff at the beautiful greeness, it was hard for me to imagine what it must have been like on D-Day. However, the ocean was roiled and it was foggy offshore so I could picture what the Germans must have seen when they looked out to sea. The weather seemed very authentic.

The cemetery was a very emotional experience. Most of the visitors were our age or older. What happens when our generation is gone? People were speaking in whispers. The crosses seemed to go on and on. The memorial itself was informative and well done.

We then drove along the tiny beach road. We swooped around one corner and a German gun was pointing right at us. Kind of a shock! At the beach at Laurent S'Mer we saw the 'draw' which Easy Company had used to come off the beach. (The movies had helped with that one). Then we went to the little cafe nearby. Did someone say that was the first building liberated?

Next we went to Pointe du Hoc and looked at the large shell depressions and the many empty gun batteries. Some had been heavily shelled. The barbed wire was still there. One has to be impressed with the Rangers coming up over that cliff. If you're interested, there is a book called "The Boys of Pointe du Hoc". The second part of the book tells about Reagan's speech there and how it had revived interest.

Then we went to Longueville to see the German gun batteries--with the biggest guns. Then back to Sully. We did not see the German cemetery as it was a bit out of the way of our other itinerary and as you know, my driver only takes on so much per day.

At a later point in the trip, someone wanted to make sure we knew that 40,000 French were killed during the invasion as well.

We ate at the Chateau that night.

hi htt-
Enjoying your report.

Thursday

It was an easy drive to Ville de Deaux Poeles with its shops of copperware. DH said I was like a kid in a candy store. They were eager to wait on you and offered shipping. We ended up with the copper in our luggage. They pointed out that we wanted the Mauviel, made in France. Apparently there were some shops selling oriental copper?

I bought a medium size lidded casserole with stainless handles, a large saucepan, and a skimmer (to hang on my rail). I recently read the long thread about French copper which someone was trying to buy in Paris. It's good to know that price comparing with WS or Sur La Table may not work as the weight and quality are different. Plus, I'll be able to look at it and always remember "I bought it in France".

Stu, I use a gas range. One night I left the burner on under a fish saute pan and discolored the copper off. I'm considering using my pots sparingly and maybe even being one of those persons who cooks a veggie or casserole then scoops it off and serves it in my copper. How cheesy is that?

Next, we went on to Mont St. Michel. The termperature was a bit more pleasant. We went up the hill from about 2pm to 4pm. Aside from one tour bus the crowds weren't bad. The town reminded me a bit of St. Paul de Vence, but less interesting. However, I did get home with some neat pictures of rooftops and chimney pots taken from above. We had wine at Le Croix Blanc.

We stayed at Le Digue which I absolutely would not recommend unless you are young, want something cheaper just to crash for the night, and don't mind parking lot noise and tour groups. The shower was only tepid. The toilet faced the tub less than 6" away. The pillows and bed were OK but the window curtains were too short to cut the light.

The Relaix St. Michel appeared to be the 'big brother' hotel and was actually a step closer to the causeway. After finding crumbs on both our coffee cups, we went across the street to it the next morning and had a not so great, but more expensive breakfast. Le Digue reminded me of a very basic hotel someone would find on a state highway in rural Idaho or something.

During the evening we walked back out the causeway (along with many others) and filmed the mountain lighting up. That was a magical experience and made the choice to stay overnight quite worthwhile. It is truly beautiful.

Next: on to Brittany

"It was an easy drive to Ville de Deaux Poeles with its shops of copperware"

I'm enjoying your trip report, but for those looking for copperwear, the town is actually Villedieu-les-Poêles.

Thanks laverendrye. As mentioned, I had already put my maps away so I'm butchering some spellings.

BTW, I never would have heard of this little town if it hadn't been for Fodorites.

Friday we left for Dinard. We had planned to walk along the coast near Cancale but we got too late a start and it was semi-foggy so we didn't. I had planned to do that after seeing Ger's inspiring pictures on Fodor's. Darn, may have to go back some day.

After reaching Dinard we drove into some lovely, old neighborhoods with the clifftop houses above the Clair de Lune Promenade. I think both Stu D and Underhill had mentioned these. There was a fountain and small garden with a few nice restaurants nearby.

We had an excellent lunch. Scott had steamed roughy and I had one of the best salads ever (and I'm not a green salad fan), and a decent chardonnay.

We had planned to also go to Dinan and walk around some. However, DH's seafood/iodine allergy kicked in. He had forgotten to bring his Benadryl so was fairly miserable. We also passed a noted garden above the Rance River which I wanted to see. (I didn't mention it to him).

We decided to go straight to Manoir de la Rance. It took a bit to find Jouvente. Going through Pleurtuit didn't work. Is Jouvente only about 3 blocks long?

Oddly, they had sent me two letters during the course of my booking. When we stayed at the hotel, I saw little fliers with a map on them. Boy, that would have helped! I ran into this at other hotels. If some of them had the info on their websites that you get when you leave, it would be much easier.

The view of the Rance was abslutely stunning. The Manoir's extensive gardens were in bloom. Madame says her mother tends them. They are a lovely complement to the turn of the last century house, full of little trails, statues, lawn chairs, greenhouse etc. It was a fun stay although I felt a bit like I was invading someone's home. The room (Deauville blue again) was decorated in a lightweight blue and white cotton toile. It was roomy and looked out over the river. The bathroom was nice. The beds were tightly tucked twins.

The Petite chien (Chou Chou) I think, with a little round tummy followed DH everywhere--probably eager for some action.

I enjoyed the blooming calla lilies, fuschia, roses, geranium arbor, while sitting outside reading with my wine. Remember our recent snowfall? I've never even seen calla lilies growing in the ground! They sell them at the grocery and after a couple weeks they die.

The Rance had wide inlets, islands, and lots of sailboats. Maybe a wealthy area?

Directly below us was the Jersey Lillie Bar and the Cafe Gourmand restaurant. We had a terrine sanglier with curried onion. They told us it was rabbit. Isn't sanglier boar? DH confessed later he found a bristle. For 4e we had an organic Anjou blanc. Can't remember what else we ate.

By nightfall, the allergic reaction had subsided.

Next: a longer drive

Hi, hopingtotravel!

I am enjoying your trip report so much! We did much the same trip last summer. Luckily, we had tried to contact Le Digue near MSM, but they did not respond to our e-mail! We then went on to discover the absolutely wonderful Chateau Bouceel, and stayed there. When we drove to MSM and saw Le Digue, we knew we had totally lucked out!!