Paris - The search is on for the best cassoulet
#62
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I'm sure that Fontaine de Mars is great. I'm just not naming their cassoulet the best in Paris. I fully intend to go to the heart of cassoulet country when I get to the Sud Ouest, Cigalechanta. For now, it's a fun Paris project without which I may not have discovered my favorite restaurant, Josephine Chez Dumonet.
#63
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Thank you for undertaking this quest. I love cassoulet and would enjoy finding a source for the perfect version in Paris. I've tried Trou Gascon and was somewhat disappointed, liked Josephine but think I may have been swayed by the complete package more than the cassoulet itself--though it is the best I've had in Paris, I'm willing to find better, and I wasn't as excited as I wanted to be with the one at Chez Eux in the 7th--but still suggest you try it for comparative purposes.
Other places the 2006 Michelin guide to Paris shows to have the wonderful dish are: Benoit in the 4th, Sarlandais in the 8th, Auberge Etchegorry in the 13th--and an adorable place I'm dying to have time to try, and Gastroquet--a favorite of mine but where for some strange reason I've not had cassoulet, though my check says it's on the menu. And if you can fit it in, please follow up on the Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes recommendation in the 11th. It's been on my list forever and keeps getting pushed off. Would love an excuse to finally buckle down and go there.
Looking forward to your review of Josephine. It's inching up there on my top 5 list.
Other places the 2006 Michelin guide to Paris shows to have the wonderful dish are: Benoit in the 4th, Sarlandais in the 8th, Auberge Etchegorry in the 13th--and an adorable place I'm dying to have time to try, and Gastroquet--a favorite of mine but where for some strange reason I've not had cassoulet, though my check says it's on the menu. And if you can fit it in, please follow up on the Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes recommendation in the 11th. It's been on my list forever and keeps getting pushed off. Would love an excuse to finally buckle down and go there.
Looking forward to your review of Josephine. It's inching up there on my top 5 list.
#66
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Thanks again, JulieVikmanis for the rec for Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes. As soon as I get my tastebuds back after this strange allergy attack I am getting over, I will check it out and let you know.
Yours
MC
Yours
MC
#67
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Tomorrow I am going to Rôtisserie d'En Face to see how Jacques Cagna makes cassoulet. I have been told it's excellent.
Today I made my first cassoulet ever. Went to Le Grand Epicerie and got all the ingredients. Made a 3-hour version as opposed to a couple of days - and it was very good. I'm thrilled to see that it's possible to make a relatively low calorie fast version of cassoulet. Thrilled. Tomorrow we'll see how it stacks up.
I've just about decided that cassoulet is better without all that duck and pork fat.
Today I made my first cassoulet ever. Went to Le Grand Epicerie and got all the ingredients. Made a 3-hour version as opposed to a couple of days - and it was very good. I'm thrilled to see that it's possible to make a relatively low calorie fast version of cassoulet. Thrilled. Tomorrow we'll see how it stacks up.
I've just about decided that cassoulet is better without all that duck and pork fat.
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What do you mean "all that duck and pork fat". I make a pretty killer cassoulet, and there isn't a whole lot of it in mine. I use lamb in mine, duck confit, flageolets, although I have done Julia's using great northerns.
It can be a "project" but if it is done in steps and then assembled, not that great a deal. And of course, it can be done with a shortcut, and still be delicious, if the ingredients are good. I have even made it using a turkey leg confit.
And I will give all you cassoulet cooks a method of preparing/presenting I learned at a Johnson&Wales bistro class.
For the sausage "layer", chef took a lamb tenderloin and opened it out/butterflied. Then he put the sausage down inside it and tied and trussed it. He browned it, and then simmered in rich duck stock.
At serving time, this was sliced in 1 inch coins and layered in on top of the beans. I do it with a pork tenderloin--no lamb tenderloin here, and I couldn't afford it if it were. It was a very nice discrete layer for the cassoulet.
It can be a "project" but if it is done in steps and then assembled, not that great a deal. And of course, it can be done with a shortcut, and still be delicious, if the ingredients are good. I have even made it using a turkey leg confit.
And I will give all you cassoulet cooks a method of preparing/presenting I learned at a Johnson&Wales bistro class.
For the sausage "layer", chef took a lamb tenderloin and opened it out/butterflied. Then he put the sausage down inside it and tied and trussed it. He browned it, and then simmered in rich duck stock.
At serving time, this was sliced in 1 inch coins and layered in on top of the beans. I do it with a pork tenderloin--no lamb tenderloin here, and I couldn't afford it if it were. It was a very nice discrete layer for the cassoulet.
#70
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Wow Gretchen, that's a great tip. Thank you And fbc34, I'll pass on that pinto bean cassoulet and take the real thing, thank you.
I went to Jacques Cagna's Rotisserie d'en Face today, and ummmh, their cassoulet didn't make the cut either. I ate about 10 bites hoping to suddenly start loving it. That never happened.
I can say, though, I liked their addition of veal but I'm not sure where that falls on the authentic meter. But their beans were not done enough AND I had to add salt. And you know how I feel about that.
Last night I made my first cassoulet. I based it on three classic recipes. It turned out great. It had just the right amount of bay leaf, thyme, tomatoe and carrot. It had the perfect garlicky creamy goodness that you expect without all that mind-clogging fat that most recipes call for. And the beans were done and there was enough salt.
I made it for the family I'm staying with, and they were licking their plates with their bread. A French compliment I find perfectly adorable. They seemed surprised that some Texans can cook the French classics.
I'm working on the recipe now and will cook it one more time before I release it to you.
Besides, I still have to go to Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes before I finish this wild adventure.
Still hoping to find among all these gastronomic greats a cassoulet that I truly ADORE.
Your fully-prepared-to-be-wowed roving reporter
MC
I went to Jacques Cagna's Rotisserie d'en Face today, and ummmh, their cassoulet didn't make the cut either. I ate about 10 bites hoping to suddenly start loving it. That never happened.
I can say, though, I liked their addition of veal but I'm not sure where that falls on the authentic meter. But their beans were not done enough AND I had to add salt. And you know how I feel about that.
Last night I made my first cassoulet. I based it on three classic recipes. It turned out great. It had just the right amount of bay leaf, thyme, tomatoe and carrot. It had the perfect garlicky creamy goodness that you expect without all that mind-clogging fat that most recipes call for. And the beans were done and there was enough salt.
I made it for the family I'm staying with, and they were licking their plates with their bread. A French compliment I find perfectly adorable. They seemed surprised that some Texans can cook the French classics.
I'm working on the recipe now and will cook it one more time before I release it to you.
Besides, I still have to go to Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes before I finish this wild adventure.
Still hoping to find among all these gastronomic greats a cassoulet that I truly ADORE.
Your fully-prepared-to-be-wowed roving reporter
MC
#73
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I would LOVE to meet Catherine Deneuve. When I pass by place St Sulpice - where I am told she lives - I always look up at the windows to see if I can catch a glimpse of her.
And yes, you are very close - however it was a different star. Wanna try again?
And yes, you are very close - however it was a different star. Wanna try again?
#74
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Ok, after having tasted cassoulet at TONS of restaurants - at least 10 - the best cassoulet I found was at La Girondine
48 Boulevard Arago, 75013 Paris, France +33 1 43 31 64 17
http://www.lagirondine.fr
It was as close to perfect as I found anywhere. (I'll write the full report when I have some time.) And their fois gras was really quite good, too, but not as good as the fois gras at Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes at
106, rue de la Folie-Méricourt
Paris, France
+33 1 43 57 33 78
Directions: 5 min walk from Place de Republic
Their fois gras is absolutely HEAVEN.
Yes they'll bring you a cassoulet, too, a HUGE one, but it is nowhere as good as the cassoulet at La Girondine.
Yours in loving a good cassoulet and fois gras,
MC2
48 Boulevard Arago, 75013 Paris, France +33 1 43 31 64 17
http://www.lagirondine.fr
It was as close to perfect as I found anywhere. (I'll write the full report when I have some time.) And their fois gras was really quite good, too, but not as good as the fois gras at Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes at
106, rue de la Folie-Méricourt
Paris, France
+33 1 43 57 33 78
Directions: 5 min walk from Place de Republic
Their fois gras is absolutely HEAVEN.
Yes they'll bring you a cassoulet, too, a HUGE one, but it is nowhere as good as the cassoulet at La Girondine.
Yours in loving a good cassoulet and fois gras,
MC2
#77
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La Girondine looks great. Their menu features all the traditional bistro dishes. It's on my list for the next time we're in Paris.
Please don't keep us guessing on your lunch with the famous movie star--Gerard Depardeau?
Please don't keep us guessing on your lunch with the famous movie star--Gerard Depardeau?
#78
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You read my review, right? If not read my post - Josephine Chez Dumonet. I'm afraid that's going to have to do for now. I just arrived in Scotland and am visiting a VERY COOL commune here for a week. I am right in the middle of about a million castles. It's very exciting. PLUS, Scotland is the land of redheads so I am in heaven.
Yours MC
Yours MC
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I had my first haggis this morning. It wasn't bad at all - not what I call good but definitely NOTHING like what I expected - I expected something quite awful/offal. I like Scottish Salmon a LOT better!!!! (I am happy you are enjoying my travel banter.)