wtggirl

Currently, I am one week post from my trip and either I have not recovered from jet lag or I am suffering some post trip depression. I am actually planning my third extended trip to Paris in only a few short months. My trip was wonderful start to finish, although like always there were many lessons learned. There was one in particular on my return that I will emphasize: Always watch to make sure all your bags are loaded on an airport shuttle before boarding~more on this later! On this trip I first traveled from Atlanta to Paris with my Husband (his first trip) and then my daughter, 18, and Mom came over on third day. Then on day 7 Hubby and daughter left my Mom and I for last couple days. This is my second extended trip to Paris.
Day 1- Lesson learned: Old hotels have thin walls!! ~Arrival in Paris was easy after a nonstop flight ATL-CDG on Delta. We used Bluvan shuttle service. Directions on pick-up were difficult to understand and I had to call them and wait about 20 minutes for pick-up, but rate of just 29E pre-booked on line was hard to beat. We shared a ride with one other couple from PA and we were dropped first at our Latin Quarter hotel, the Hotel St. Jacques. I had done a lot of research on this hotel
and with all the positive reviews booked two rooms for our family. One standard double at 108E and one twin at 118E. We checked into our double at arrival which was a nice surprise with the time being 1030am. Our room was small, but very cozy and with amazing ornate detail with plaster molded ceilings, huge double doors that must have been original with the old fashioned key (that had a huge tassel on it) and a nice walk out balcony. The bathroom was tiny and first thing I noticed was I had no way to curl my hair. BIG problem that there was no plug. Only plugs in the room were for the TV and one by the door on the other side of the room. I decided I would unplug the TV and curl my hair as I could use the and see the mirror on the back of the bathroom door. What ever works, right? We decided to take a quickie nap. I was somewhere in the middle of that first 5 minute fog of a nap and I heard a loud "ring" of a phone like it was just outside my door. Well, it was the maid phone literally just outside my door! Then, I heard creek, creek of feet walking up the hall to answer the phone! Somehow, I managed a few winks and we got up to take our first walk. Nov. 7 was a beautiful day and temps were in the 60s-F! Our hotel was positioned only one block from Maubert Metro and three blocks from ST. Michel M/RER (for more connections). WE walked over by Notre Dame, then over to Les Halles to the Forum Mall and the St. Eusteche cathedral. I had stayed just behind the Forum last trip and this area is very, very busy with tourists and the Les Halles/Chatelet station is so busy! I enjoyed the H & M three level store in the Forum. There is one in NYC, but not Atlanta and they have great prices. After, we took ANOTHER rest and then headed out for a late dinner at Santorini's on Rue de la Harpe in the Latin quarter tourist district between St. Michel and St. Severin church. This is a place I frequented last trip (Greek). I had the same waiter as last time and sure enough they put us at the same table as last time by chance. He did not recognize me, but I have a picture of him so knew him right away-I introduced myself. He acted like he remembered . We had some good Bourdeux wine and greek salads. Prix-fix menu here is very inexpensive and good as I remember, but we ate light this time. We closed the place at midnight. Never before had I taken two naps on the day of arrival as I had been instructed not to. But, it worked well for us. I think each time we slept only about 1 1/2 hours. At bedtime, I wondered how early the maid's phone would start ringing the next morning! Oh, my hubby tried to take off with the room key, he had taken the huge tassel off! He laughed when I told him we were to check at the front desk each time in/out .

Day 2- Lesson learned- Napolean is not burried at the Louvre~ Beds were very comfortable, and we awoke rested at 830am and no ringing phone yet! (did not start until mid morning!) After dressing, we made our way out to walk up the market street Mouffetard in search of my first french croissant in 1 1/2 years! The market street is very nice to walk down with many small bistros, stores and market with wine, fruit, fish and yes, the "boulangerie"! I was so excited, I took a picture of my first croissant! Nothing like a french croissant! After our croissants and cafe cremes we walked through the Luxemboeurg gardens. The day was absolutely beautiful and many were running in shorts with temps again in the 60s. It is amazing how the french take time out of their day to relax in the park. There were so many locals there and park was lovely. We then took the metro to Arch De Triumphe to take a look. (Bought a carnet of 10 tickets) I think it is windy on the Champs compared to where we are staying in the 5th. WE decided to take a walk down the Champs. Now, I had never been to see Napolean's tomb and I knew he was housed somewhere other than the Louvre. But, my dh showed me the map and pointed to "Napolean" which was clearly marked close to the Louvre, not exactly at it, but close. We decided to walk the (had to be almost 3 miles) down the Champs to the Louvre. We walked through the park with the fountains. By this time, my husband's knees where giving out. I could see the big pyramid to the Louvre and I said "he is not buried there, I know", but the map was pointing us that direction. The Louvre was closing, but a guard was standing outside and I walked up and asked in French "Where is Napolean?" He politely said "He is Not HERE!" I showed him my map. He first looked confused and then started laughing and told me where he was burried (Invalidades). Now, I actually knew this from research I had done, but with jet lag I let my hubby lead me all the way to the Louvre to figure out that the two places were not even close to one another! Well, we were almost home, only another mile or so. So, we long hauled it back to our room on foot. Poor DH! For dinner we went to a place recommended by Fodors and also our hotel, Perridine's on Rue St. Jacques. We were very pleased with this experience. It was a very old historic small bistro with tables side/side. We had the bordeux wine and the boeuf bourguignonne. Excellent! We met three ladies next to us. One, was a tag along to the other two from NYC and leaving the next day. She had not been to any clubs since arrival so we offered to take her out. We went to the Rue de la Huchette to a few places just to show her. One place we looked in "sexy bar?" and there was fake smog and men with no shirts. My husband was like "No Way!". WE went in anyway, and just sat a short while watching all the kids dancing (a couple on tables) and moved on. This is a fun place for the young set, and young at heart. Turned in about 2am.

TBC......

wtggirl

I did not clarify. There was a wing to the Louvre, named "Napolean" and the map we have over accentuates it!

travginny

Hi wtg,

I'm enjoying your report. Looking forward to the next installment.

Ginny

USNR

The apartments of Napoleon III and his empress, Eugenie, are contained within one wing of the Louvre. Napoleon III was the nephew of Napoleon I. He ruled France from 1850-1871, hence, his apartments have a very ornate, Victorian decor. He died in England after fleeing France at the conclusion of the disastrous Franco-Prussian War.

Christina

I really like your trip report, looking forward to the rest. You have a lot of good detail, both factual which can help others, but interesting personal points.

wtggirl

DAy 3- Lesson Learned: 18 year olds get jetlag too!~ Mom and Kristi arrive in the AM. They had the same problem with Bluvan, but the wait was only about 15 minutes. They arrived to a room that was not ready until about 1pm. Their room was directly next door. Hubby and I could not decide if this was a plus or minus with the thin walls. Their room was larger than ours, very nice with same ornate ceiling and walk out balcony. I would be sharing this room on last two days with my Mom, so I took notice of all details (no plug in the bath)! After they settled in, I asked my daughter for her passport. Could not find it. She had a vest on and said she put it in her pocket. Panic time! WEll, after several calls bluvan called us back and said it was in the van and for 20E they would bring it to us! No problem! This made us glad that we took the van service because had it been a taxi it would have been much harder to track down! After this ordeal we walked through Notre Dame and then over through Le Marais district and Place des Vosges. We love this area! Highly recommended for a walk. After an afternoon nap we ate dinner at Le Petit Prince just around the corner from the hotel, close to Pantheon off of Rue de Carnes. This place is a medium sized Bistro, very charming. Service and food very good. Upon receiving our main course, my daughter hit the table with her foot at the precise moment the assistant waiter put the plate in front of my Mom. Her wine glass went over and into her food and it seemed the table would never stop shaking. The poor guy just looked totally puzzled at what happened and very embarrassed. He apologized and wisked my Mom's plate away. I could not even tell what happened and I was sitting right there. My daughter made the confession it was her fault and my Mom kept saying "not a problem" as she would have eaten the food as is. After the meal I tried to explain to the main waiter that it was all my daughter's fault. My french is not too good, and neither was his english. But, his response to my apology that it was not his fault was "It's not his fault, THIS TIME, but it is revenge" with a laugh. I love the French sense of humor . I think at times like this being cute, blonde and 18 helps with the french as well. If this day was not enough for her, we decided to take her to her first "club" experience at "sexy bar". She is not the party type, but we thought the cute little touristy place would be memorable. She was amused watching the bartenders in their little black shorts and what looked like suspenders dance around in the fake smog. She and I danced together and "Grandma" took pictures. Hubby watched and laughed. A good end to an evening.

Travelnut

I hope your report is all posted by the time I get to check back on Sunday..

wtggirl

Day 4- Lesson Learned- Don't be afraid of the Eiffel Tower!~Weather had turned colder, but clear today. Only rain was day three early, so can't complain as still in the 50s F. Had croissants/cafe at corner Boulangerie and then took metro to the Eiffel tower. It was a perfectly clear day and lines were rather long. I had posted a thread before departure on my fear of height and the Eiffel tower. I had totally mixed responses. So, I decided to go to the 2nd level (I had walked to first before) and then come back at a later time for 3rd level if I made it okay. My daughter went to second level with me. Hubby and Mom went all the way up. I was really nervous. But, I am also one to face my fears so even though the ride up was a bit uncomfortable as I just could not keep from looking out, I made it up without any serious problems. As I exited the lift, It took some time before I could walk without acting like I was walking on egg shells. I went in the gift shop which makes you feel "protected" and then out to the railing. I was glad I had not committed to go all the way up as it took some time to get used to. My daughter and I headed back to the hotel to rest for our PM plans. When Mom and hubby returned they said trip to third level no worse than second and felt more enclosed. I decided next time I would take it all the way up! Our PM plans consisted of the Musee D'Orsay and then the early dinner cruise on the La Marina de Paris at 615pm. My daughter will be an art major in college next year and the Musee D'Orsay was a real treat for her. Don't miss it if you enjoy impressionist's art. For those who are not art buffs, the Louvre has a much greater and diverse collection. We went just outside to where the dinner boat was to be and there was no boat at 6pm. I called the company as we were worried we were in the wrong spot! The boat showed up at 615pm on the nose. The boat was the smaller of their two and there were probably only 4 total parties on the dinner cruise. At only 59E each with wine, we were not sure what to expect. We each got 1/2 bottle wine (my daugter does not drink) so that was 2 bottles for three people! We had a good appetizer and for main course I had steak. Lesson #2 of the day is order your steak TWO degrees more done than you are used to. Well done will be medium, medium will be rare by US standards. I ordered MED WELL and it was underdone for my usual Medium I order in US. This was consistantly the case at future meals too. The sauce (the french know their sauces) was so good, I could have eaten it raw though I think. The dessert was my favorite part. I had choc. mousse, but my husband's creme brulee was not only huge, but one of the best I ever had. It had a slight coffee flavor and choc. chips on top. The scenic route by the Eiffel tower was fabulous. We did this for my 18 year old and we all actually enjoyed it more than we thought we would. After a walk back to the hotel, we had an early turn in this evening.

Lori

Nice report - There normally are no electric outlets (plugs) in bathrooms in France. It is a safety issue I've been told by relatives of mine. Likewise in the UK.

wtggirl

Day 5- Lesson Learned- Go to Opera Garnier day of show for sold out performances!~ Another beautiful day in Paris. Days seem to gradually become cooler each day, but were still above average for time of year. Our day began with the metro over to the Funicular side of Sacre Coer in Montmartre. I was not sure how bad the walk up would be so we paid the normal metro rate to ride up. I think even Grandma could have made it up, but we did it not knowing beforehand. I estimate about 200 steps. (saved them for later). We went to the lookout and there was a harpist playing that really set the mood. He was a professional with a couple CDs you could purchase. I could have stayed all day to listen. We went through the basilica and then down to the right of the entrance to see pay 5E each to climb to the top of the basilica. The steps up were very narrow and could be considered slightly claustrophobic. The walk up had Grandma huffing and puffing, but got to the top with a moderately difficult climb. The view was fantastic and worth the 5E. We also walked part of the way outside that made you feel like you are literally walking over part of the outside of the building. For the 5E you can also walk through the underground vaults, which were not overly interesting to us. On our walk back we went via the Place de Terre and the square where all the artists are set up doing portraits. Very nice area to walk in. There were some great photo opportunities here and if this area were not set so far away from my favorite parts of Paris I would consider it to stay in. On our way back by Metro we stopped by the Opera Garnier to try to get tickets to the sold out ballet of George Ballenchine's Joyieux. I could not get tickets even a month in advance on line OR by calling. The ticket office was not open due to the holiday (Nov. 11) until 630pm. After a quick rest and change at the hotel, our determination brought us back to the Opera and a long line at the ticket office at about 645pm. I was surprised there was even a line and to my surprise about 40 minutes later I had what they called "no visibility" tickets for only 6E each. These were all that were available, so we took them. We were thrilled when we were taken up to the 4th level and told to sit where we wanted and had seats with about 3/4 visibility of the stage! What a deal! My daughter was thrilled. She plays the Viola and we had a bird's eye view of the orchestra. We stopped for dinner at the bistro right next to our hotel, on the corner of rue des Carnes and rue de Ecoles. It was fine, nothing fantastic.

Day 6- Lesson Learned- Bofingers and Bofingers Petit are two different restaurants! ~This was the last full day for my DH and daughter. They all headed for the Louvre, but since I had been before, I headed straight for Galleries Lafayette and shopping. Taking the Metro alone with ease from familiarity was very exhilarating! The newly decorated windows were really great and reminded me of something in NYC back in the 50s (I wouldn't know first hand . The inside reminded me of Harrods in Paris to be honest. However, the center was open like a huge atrium on a cruise ship. The basement bottom floor had a great music and book store. But, probably my biggest surprise was the lingerie and hosiery departments. I guess I expected the French to have great lingerie which took an entire floor in itself. But, when I saw the hosiery I was rendered speechless. I don't even like to wear hosiery! I hate them in fact. But, they had every kind of elegant pattern of lace and net you could think of. Very fashionable and perfect solution to what to wear in the winter when you hate regular hose. But, some of these babies were 40-50E a pair, so watch out! For dinner I had made reservations at Bofinger at the Bastille. We took the metro and this evening we had the second bit of rain. Visibility was not the best and we were in a hurry. We rounded the corner of the street we knew Bofingers was on and there we saw the sign. It was not until after we went in and were seated that we realized the menus said "Bofingers Petit" on them. I asked and they said "Same food, different house". Well, we had a good, but not extra special meal. I had the liver, medium well that I had to send back to cook as it came very red to the table. For dessert my 18yr old had the bubba au Rhum and it was "baby, oh, baby RUM!" The look on her face after the first bite was priceless (photo op.). On our exit from the restaurant directly across the street we saw the original "Bofingers". We walked in just to take a peek. I still am not sure if they were both owned by Bofingers or not. They had different menus, so I was a bit disappointed. But, this is part of travel, non? Lesson learned! I sure could not complain. We headed back for the evening (I was in style in my new black lace hose

wtggirl

Sorry, the entrance for the walk up basilica dome is on the LEFT of the entrance, not right.

dcd

This is a very good read. Thanks for sharing. One suggestion -- you might break up your larger paragraphs into smaller ones which will make your report a little easier to read. Welcome home!!

wtggirl

Good suggestion dcd. I thought about it after I realized how long each day was!

wtggirl

Day 7- DH and daughter left in the AM. This was the first morning we had the 8E breakfast in the breakfast room at the hotel. It was good and convenient, but the croissants were not as good as at the boulangerie and of course it was more expensive. As soon as we bid farewell, I had to pack up and leave my room and join my MOther. We were supposed to go to Versailles today. But, we just did not want to leave Paris. Our time in Paris is so nice and we just wanted some down time.

We walked down to Pont Neuf on the Il de Citie and we saw a few divers in wet suits around the point. We ate lunch at Brasserie Balzar on Rue des Ecoles. The service was superb here and the food very good as well. I would recommend it.

We had taken rented International French cell phones (two) over with us and they really came in handy. I have some friends we met the last time in Paris and they called us and said they would meet us at Le Caveau de la Huchette for Jazz and dancing. Edmund and Jean-Pierre were our dancing buddies the last time we came to Paris. I kept in touch by email with Jean-Pierre and told him we were returning. Before going to dance, we stopped at Santorini's the Greek place on Rue de la Harpe to see if my waiter friend (name pronounced Foot-ay). He was not working, but we promised to return the next night. We arrived at Caveau at about 10pm right when the band was to start playing. This place is extra special in my book. The cave is very historic and has been there forever. I think in use since the 1400s. The nooks and crannys are great to talk with a group of friends in and the dance floor is a good size with seating all around it. The band is your usual be-bop (big city) jazz with piano, bass, sax and singer. The swing dancers (they do a variation of the east coast swing/ lindy hop) are very good and some seem professional. I was actually inpired here last time to start taking lessons! Hubby and I took two sets since my trip a year ago, so I was ready to test my skill.

Jean-Pierre had a few drinks with dinner before arriving so the only skill I used with him was to stay vertical. We had fun dancing with several of the "regulars" and I met several more people. It was nice to see old friends. Left at about 130am and said we would meet up again the next night.

Day 8- Lesson Learned- You don't have to pay a lot to eat well in Paris~ This was our last full day in Paris, boo hoo! I decided I would take Mom to Galleries Lafayette since she missed out the first time. Stopped a really neat place called Zora next to the mall and it was a very fashionable place. Bought a really nice shirt at about 40E. In the Galleries Lafayette, ate at the chinese restaurant for lunch. It was okay, but don't highly recommend it. They were having one of their fashion shows on the top floor. Also, another thing I noticed is that people throughout the store have microphones and they talk about their sales in a "fashion show" kind of way. I headed straight for the hosiery department again! Bought some Maxim's chocolate, and a few other items.

Did not manage to get a rest in before our dinner and dancing as hoped. We headed to Santorini's one last time and sure enough Foot-ay was there! He was very happy to see us and treated us very well. We had Greek wine and the fixed menu at only 15E. This has to be one of the best deals in town. (However, we have to say we actually enjoyed the cheap sidewalk food i.e crepes and panini. Who says you can't eat cheap in Paris?) The greek salad alone is huge and wonderful. We had the pork and only Mom could go on to dessert. We took a picture with our waiter and headed out to Caveau de la Huchette.

Caveau was hopping already at 1015pm when we arrived. It was different band tonight, but similar music. Jean-Pierre was in better form tonight, but Edmund did not make it. Several of our new friends from previous night were there. I seemed to have a new admirer named Oliver and I don't think he was just interested in dancing. I told him I was married and unavailable, but he insisted on wasting his time on me anyway. Good thing he was cute WE danced the night away and left at about 130am. Mom was a bit upset at the time! I gave out my email address to a few new friends (girls too okay!) and Jean-Pierre walked us to our hotel. Good ending to our trip to Paris. But, beware, tomorrow is a doosie!!

wtggirl

Day 9- Lesson Learned (probably the biggest of the week)- Never, I mean NEVER get into any airport transfer until you see your luggage loaded on!~ After about 4 hours of sleep, we were up and ready for Bluvan to pick us up from Hotel St. Jacques at 830am. I can highly recommend this hotel to anyone looking for a very nice 2 star with a lot of charm, great location and value. The Bluvan service was late, but I was not too worried as we were the last pick-up on their list. We put our bags on the curb and climbed aboard. Now, for a second I wondered if I should separate from my little black bag with my passport, money, ID in it. But, I figured I was only a few feet from it and sat the bag next to all the other luggage not thinking about the bag until our arrival at the airport.

We were last to get dropped off and when the driver unloaded the bags I had this sinking feeling when he did not take off my little black bag. I immediately felt that intuitive moment I had on separating from my bag come back to haunt me. After a brief moment of panic, the driver told my Mom to stay put at the curb and for me to get back on the van. We thought first maybe my bag had been dropped with a previous person. I can't tell you how bad it felt not to know at all where it could be. After tracing our tracks and going to the airline desks, he asked if I could have possibly left it at the hotel. I told him only if he left it sitting on the curb-I knew I put it there. Well, sure enough a call to the hotel discovered that someone had brought the bag in from the curb and Bridget at the front desk had it. We quickly hired a taxi to transport the bag. The driver did not offer to pay for the taxi, or give me discount on my transfer, so I quickly had to come up with 40E and I only had about 1 hour and 15 minutes before my flight. Long story short, we got the bag back about 45 minutes before my flight. They escorted us quickly through the airport in order to make our flight. I don't think they would have done this for us in Atlanta! It was a bit hairy, because one of my bags was overweight and I had to pay a fine and that took extra time and then at a second security check point we realized my Mom was not given her boarding pass and the escort had to go running back for it!! Well, needless to say when we finely did make our flight (thank goodness it had been delayed due to fog), we climbed aboard and I think we slept about 5 of the 9 hours! Icing on the cake for this travel day was that my Mom's little black bag did not make it to Atlanta. In fact it took almost a week for Delta to find it- but it did arrive at her home in Florida eventually!

We did not let this last travel day in any way dampen the overall picture perfect trip we had. I will have to say that when traveling you should expect the unexpected from time/time and let it be a lesson in learning to roll with the punches.

If anyone has any questions about my review, please ask. I would love to make your trip to Paris more enjoyable. I am currently trying to plan my next trip to Paris, hopefully in the spring!! I can hardly wait!

klondike

Thanks, wtggirl for the fun read! Having had my purse stolen with passport, money etc, I can relate to that "sinking feeling" when you know something is definitely wrong.

Sounds like you had a wonderful time.

nukesafe

Thank you, dcd, for mentioning the paragraphs. I found the post really hard to read with those endless run-on paragraphs, but didn't want to sound like my old English teacher and be a nag. I'll now go back and try to wade through them, as they have some interesting content.

nukesafe

wtggirl,

I have now gone back read all of your report, and found it a most entertaining and informative one. You certainly know how to enjoy yourself! Please forgive my little tounge-in-cheek dig at your lack of paragraphs.

I will bookmark your report for our next trip to the city of light.

Barb

Thanks for the great trip report. It was informative and very entertaining and particularly so because I stayed at Hotel St. Jacque in 2003, so I am very familiar with that area. It really took me back there reading your report. Love Le Petite Prince.

Nikki

Thanks for the great report. I am very impressed with all the nightlife you squeezed in. It's not everyone who goes out dancing with her husband, her mother and her daughter in clubs with bartenders who dance in little black shorts and suspenders. In fact, I will be staying in this area with my husband and 19 year old daughter in February, but I can not imagine either of them walking into that place.