Paris: Montmartre Exploration
Nov 11th, 2003, 11:29 AM
#21
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I don't have a lot to add -- I don't know of any special places to eat, except Sancerre, but there are plenty of places that you can choose that just look good, I think there's a decent bistro at the corner of rues Lepic and Abbesses.
I would say Eglise St-jean l'Evangeliste is worth a look, the Art Nouveau influence is in the interior, but the outside has Moorish influences. It's an interesting church.
If one is interested in architecture, I'd just take a walk along ave Junot, which is really the elegant street of this area. I think I did this area sort of in reverse, getting off at Lamarck Caulincourt and then going downhill down ave Junot towards Abbesses. There are a lot of interesting houses and villas, including some artists, on ave Junot. Poulbot, as mentioned above, lived here next to a house designed by Loos, which is wellknown (around 11-13 ave Junot).
There are good fabric stores/markets around that at Marche Saint-Pierre, also, the area is known for that. Dreyfus is a big one. You may not want that, but for those who are interested, it's worth noting. Here is a URL for that market:
http://www.marche-saint-pierre.fr
I would say Eglise St-jean l'Evangeliste is worth a look, the Art Nouveau influence is in the interior, but the outside has Moorish influences. It's an interesting church.
If one is interested in architecture, I'd just take a walk along ave Junot, which is really the elegant street of this area. I think I did this area sort of in reverse, getting off at Lamarck Caulincourt and then going downhill down ave Junot towards Abbesses. There are a lot of interesting houses and villas, including some artists, on ave Junot. Poulbot, as mentioned above, lived here next to a house designed by Loos, which is wellknown (around 11-13 ave Junot).
There are good fabric stores/markets around that at Marche Saint-Pierre, also, the area is known for that. Dreyfus is a big one. You may not want that, but for those who are interested, it's worth noting. Here is a URL for that market:
http://www.marche-saint-pierre.fr
Nov 11th, 2003, 10:56 PM
#22
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Couldn't resist adding my 4 eurocents worth, given that this was my neighbourhood for a couple of years...
The Relais de la Butte is divided into two parts. The bar, and the restaurant, with separate entrances. I wouldn't call the bar "old fashioned and full of plants." It has tables outside in warm weather but the indoor bar is fairly modern, nothing to write home about. The restaurant next door is more old fashioned (but you can't stop just for a drink, I don't think...), serving decent Italian food (no pizza).
Other good choices for food: la Queue du Chat (the cat's tail) at the top end of Rue Tholozé. Excellent cuisine at very reasonable prices. Used to eat there regularly. My absolute favourite for dinner in this area is Chez Toinette on Rue Germain-Pilon (which runs down from place des abbesses to the boulevard below). This is a small restaurant run by two guys, who cook up great Provençal style food, always fresh, always delicious. Menu changes every day. No prix fixe, but who cares when it's this reasonable!
Of the cafés on the rue des Abbesses, le St Jean, which is on the square, does decent bar food. Also the Chinon further along the street. If you really want to hang out with the locals, visit the Cave des Abbesses, at 43 rue des Abbesses. Walk through to the back of the wine store and you'll find a little bar tucked away where you can taste a selection of great wines (tasting menu changes every month) and enjoy a plate of charcuterie, or cheese, or roasted vegetables, or bread and pesto.
If you fancy something sweet, buy a pastry from Les Petits Mitrons near the intersection of rue lepic and Rue des Abbesses. By far the best in the neighbourhood!
Another place you might want to check out when up at the Sacré Coeur is the little park hidden away behind it. Walk round the Basilica (miraculously the crowds of tourists will disappear) and you'll see a gateway leading into a little garden. There are alcoves covered in vines, and as you walk through the terraced park you'll come across the waterfall fountain, and huge clumps of lavender. It's only a tiny place, but it's a lovely spot to stop for a picnic or just to rest legs weary from all the stairs and hills of Montmartre!
The Relais de la Butte is divided into two parts. The bar, and the restaurant, with separate entrances. I wouldn't call the bar "old fashioned and full of plants." It has tables outside in warm weather but the indoor bar is fairly modern, nothing to write home about. The restaurant next door is more old fashioned (but you can't stop just for a drink, I don't think...), serving decent Italian food (no pizza).
Other good choices for food: la Queue du Chat (the cat's tail) at the top end of Rue Tholozé. Excellent cuisine at very reasonable prices. Used to eat there regularly. My absolute favourite for dinner in this area is Chez Toinette on Rue Germain-Pilon (which runs down from place des abbesses to the boulevard below). This is a small restaurant run by two guys, who cook up great Provençal style food, always fresh, always delicious. Menu changes every day. No prix fixe, but who cares when it's this reasonable!
Of the cafés on the rue des Abbesses, le St Jean, which is on the square, does decent bar food. Also the Chinon further along the street. If you really want to hang out with the locals, visit the Cave des Abbesses, at 43 rue des Abbesses. Walk through to the back of the wine store and you'll find a little bar tucked away where you can taste a selection of great wines (tasting menu changes every month) and enjoy a plate of charcuterie, or cheese, or roasted vegetables, or bread and pesto.
If you fancy something sweet, buy a pastry from Les Petits Mitrons near the intersection of rue lepic and Rue des Abbesses. By far the best in the neighbourhood!
Another place you might want to check out when up at the Sacré Coeur is the little park hidden away behind it. Walk round the Basilica (miraculously the crowds of tourists will disappear) and you'll see a gateway leading into a little garden. There are alcoves covered in vines, and as you walk through the terraced park you'll come across the waterfall fountain, and huge clumps of lavender. It's only a tiny place, but it's a lovely spot to stop for a picnic or just to rest legs weary from all the stairs and hills of Montmartre!
Nov 16th, 2003, 04:08 AM
#24
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For Amelie Fans:
Café des Deux Moulins, 15, rue Lepic; (33-1) 42.54.90.50; Métro: Blanche. Classics like salade frisée aux lardons ($8.85, at $1.18 to the euro) and a demi-Camembert with a glass of Ctes du Rhne ($7).
Au Marché de la Butte, 56, rue des Trois Frères; (33-1) 42.64.86.30; Métro: Abbesses. Closed Monday. A traditional French neighborhood convenience store that still looks very much like the épicerie in the movie.
The Café des Deux Moulins on the Rue Lepic where Amélie worked as a waitress has become one of the most frequented cafes in the neighborhood since the movie opened. When its longtime owner, Claude Labbé, announced he was selling it last year, there were rumors it would become an Amélie theme bar or even worse, a fast-food restaurant.
Indeed, Marc Fougedoire, the new owner, eliminated the classic cigarette stand, an important focal point in the film, to make room for more tables. Cloth tablecloths were replaced by paper.
But the copper-topped bar, mustard-colored ceiling, lace curtains and 1950's décor have been preserved, including the neon wall lamps. So has the unisex toilet that is the scene of a frenzied coupling between Georgette, a hypochondriac cigarette seller, and Joseph, a rough patron whose life is transformed by love.
Café des Deux Moulins, 15, rue Lepic; (33-1) 42.54.90.50; Métro: Blanche. Classics like salade frisée aux lardons ($8.85, at $1.18 to the euro) and a demi-Camembert with a glass of Ctes du Rhne ($7).
Au Marché de la Butte, 56, rue des Trois Frères; (33-1) 42.64.86.30; Métro: Abbesses. Closed Monday. A traditional French neighborhood convenience store that still looks very much like the épicerie in the movie.
The Café des Deux Moulins on the Rue Lepic where Amélie worked as a waitress has become one of the most frequented cafes in the neighborhood since the movie opened. When its longtime owner, Claude Labbé, announced he was selling it last year, there were rumors it would become an Amélie theme bar or even worse, a fast-food restaurant.
Indeed, Marc Fougedoire, the new owner, eliminated the classic cigarette stand, an important focal point in the film, to make room for more tables. Cloth tablecloths were replaced by paper.
But the copper-topped bar, mustard-colored ceiling, lace curtains and 1950's décor have been preserved, including the neon wall lamps. So has the unisex toilet that is the scene of a frenzied coupling between Georgette, a hypochondriac cigarette seller, and Joseph, a rough patron whose life is transformed by love.
Nov 16th, 2003, 05:06 AM
#25
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>... the unisex toilet that is the scene of a frenzied coupling between Georgette, a hypochondriac cigarette seller, and Joseph, a rough patron whose life is transformed by love.<
Ah, the wonder of romantic Paris.
Ah, the wonder of romantic Paris.
Nov 16th, 2003, 05:09 AM
#26
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For park and garden fans: after visiting the basilica, most people walk to the left towards the Place du Tertre, but just behind and to the right of the church lies a lovely place called Parc de la Turlure. Its a triangle spot of green with park benches, green lawn, flowerbeds and a most unusual arbor adorn this quiet haven. The benches under the arbor seem to attract young lovers and avid readers while the framework and vegetation create a sense of seclusion from everyday life. Only a few hundred feet away, the steps were teaming with people and music, but amazingly little if any of that noise reaches behind the church.
Apr 24th, 2012, 10:57 PM
#29
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Splendid plan. I have attached a google maps direction for anyone interested
http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=ME...13,17&t=m&z=16
http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=ME...13,17&t=m&z=16
Apr 25th, 2012, 07:55 AM
#31
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That's one long url! http://www.tinyurl.com comes in handy for that type of thing...
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